Thinking about building a reasonable 4-seater. Any recommendations?

AV8R_87

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The only one I've seen (a friend built it and I got to see it take shape over the past 8 years) is the RV-10, but that's a bit too much for me.
Looking for opinions/recommendations and first hand experiences building/owning a 4-seater that won't take the next 10 years to put together.
 
Buy one already built--seriously if you really want E-AB and are more interested in flying than building. There are of course other make options like Sling, that go might go together quicker especially with factory assist but understand you're trading money for time. RV's also have quick build options that will shorten the build time but anecdotally as an RV-10 builder (slow built all the way--no QB options) I'd say count on 3-4 years of dedicated effort on the 10.
 
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Not a lot of 4 seater options.

Sling tsi looks attractive if the size works for you. Probably faster to build than the -10.

Velocity if you like fiberglass work...

Bearhawk probably the fastest to build? Seem like good planes. Not as fast, more of a backcountry plane, but not kitfox slow either.

I think that's it? At least for fairly common kit planes.
 
There’s a heck of a lot more work than what meets the eye. If you can’t reasonably budget for 5yrs build time, I’d suggest buying one either already built, or nearly finished. Even a Carbon Cub takes a good 2.5-3yrs for the experienced builder.
 
If a Bearhawk works, you can probably buy one cheaper than you can build it. The same probably does not hold true for an RV 10.

Zenith 801 is a four seat, but slow.

I built a 2 seat Zenith but quickly learned I was a pilot and not a builder. For me, building was a long, stressful, exhausting suck that pretty much consumed every spare minute for years.

Some people enjoy it but I wasnt one of them.

In the end I could have bought an even better version of the plane I built, for less than it cost me to build mine. The only difference was I could defray the costs over multiple years.

As you're probably learning, there are not a lot of options for a 4 seat experimental.
 
The only one I've seen (a friend built it and I got to see it take shape over the past 8 years) is the RV-10, but that's a bit too much for me.
Looking for opinions/recommendations and first hand experiences building/owning a 4-seater that won't take the next 10 years to put together.
Define "reasonable".

If you have someone nearby who has built one before and can offer guidance and assistance, that will reduce the build time significantly. I spent 7 years building my Velocity and if I did it again, I could get it done in two years.
 
I looked carefully at building a 4 seater about a decade ago. I found that I couldn't build a plane as cheaply as I could buy one, and buying would get me in air air MUCH faster. I bought a Maule and I've flown all over the country in the time when I would have been locked in a garage, hangar, or workshop. Look at the price of the kits, the price of engines and the price of instruments and unless you are willing to spend even more time scrounging for used parts, you can't build a plane as cheaply as you can buy one. Used plane prices have appreciated recently, but they are still a bargain compared to buying new, or even compared to building. So, unless a kit plane has attributes you need and can't get in a used aircraft, it doesn't make sense to build if what you really want to do is fly. If you like building for its own sake, that is a different calculation.

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The best value in aviation is a well maintained airplane about 1/2 way into its first or second overhaul. Good value buy-in and resale. 2800 or 4800 TTAF is about ideal if it is well maintained, in good shape and flying regularly. Buy it and fly it. Put it in the shop for 2 weeks to a month every year. Fly it as much as you can!!! You won't regret it.
 
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What’s reasonable? Best bang for the buck is to buy a used legacy 4-seater. If you prefer new, look into a Maule. Building E-AB based on economy is what leads to unfinished kits for sale. Building a custom airplane is not cheap.
 
Im building a zenith 801 but already looking at something faster and I like the BD4C. It supposedly goes together quickly and goes 200mph on 200hp. Like the zenith, it resembles a winged mailbox, but its growing on me.
 
Bede BD-4C is a fast (can be over 200mph but most ppl stick 180hp and get 170+mph cruise) 4 place kit that you can quick build for less than $100k if you want a VFR only plane. Avionics can easily add $50k if you need your Garmin fix.
 
I've always thought of Bede as being kind of sketchy....or was that only the jet?
 
Judging by the one tied down near me, I'd say it's more of a 2+2 compared to say perhaps an RV10.
I thought that's actually how it was marketed at some point, but I don't see "2+2" on their website anymore.

And IIRC, the back two seats face the rear, which may not be ideal depending on who is back there.

Edit - just looked at the website again, and yeah those two rear seats face backward and look pretty cramped (and possibly claustrophobic - definitely something I'd want to check out in person before committing to building or buying one).
 
A lot of good feedback so far, so I'll try to answer/comment on what was said. I've grouped similar comments so they all get answered at once.

How is the RV-10 "too much"? What does your budget, mission, and builder profile look like?
Define "reasonable".

Not something that requires 10+years to build and 250-300k for a light IFR machine. One of the goals of this build would be to show aspiring owners that for the price of their time and some money (120k-ish before paint and interior) you could build something that more than one person can enjoy. I'd like something that is comparable to a high end 172/182 or PA28. Fixed gear/prop, modest avionics, no need for three flat panel displays and two GTN750s, all fed by two alternators and three batteries. Practical without breaking the bank. Extra knots demand $^2.

Buy one already built--seriously if you really want E-AB and are more interested in flying than building.
The best value in aviation is a well maintained airplane about 1/2 way into its first or second overhaul.
What’s reasonable? Best bang for the buck is to buy a used legacy 4-seater.
I looked carefully at building a 4 seater about a decade ago. I found that I couldn't build a plane as cheaply as I could buy one, and buying would get me in air air MUCH faster.
I already own a legacy 4-seater. While this was the definitive answer a decade ago, with the hikes in parts costs, lack of availability, engine overhaul costs and the fact that every piece of avionics ends up costing double+ the purchase price by the time it gets installed, it is time to think outside of the legacy bubble. Buying a pre-built E-AB means no repairman certificate, and that is something I'd like to have.


Sling tsi looks attractive if the size works for you. Probably faster to build than the -10.
That seems to be the closest to what I'm looking for. I'd prefer the kit to be a bit cheaper (again, one of the motives is demonstrating there is an affordable entry point in the 4-seat market), and I'd be curious if they'd support a builder that would consider a different powerplant with a fixed pitch prop. I've dealt with a few kit makers out there that won't even talk to you if you mention that you'd like to install a different powerplant than the one they have on their prototype. I think their engine/prop combination ends up costing almost as much as the airframe kit. Not sure the extra performance is worth the price penalty.

Velocity if you like fiberglass work..
Not really - but they are good looking planes.

Bearhawk probably the fastest to build? Seem like good planes. Not as fast, more of a backcountry plane, but not kitfox slow either.
Not my cup of tea.

There’s a heck of a lot more work than what meets the eye. If you can’t reasonably budget for 5yrs build time, I’d suggest buying one either already built, or nearly finished.
5 years is reasonable, 10 isn't. I've also seen what can happen when you buy someone's half-baked build. By the time they decide to sell it, they've already given up and the build quality suffers. Mis-drilled stringers, requiring drilling out the rivets on half the fuselage to replace, wing fittings drilled incorrectly, requiring the wings to be scrapped and a new set built, stuff like that.

Zenith 801 is a four seat, but slow.
Zenith /zenair 801
Im building a zenith 801
Too boxy for my taste, but I do like Zenith's approach to building. A lot easier to deal with a pneumatic rivet puller than a rivet gun and a bucking bar.
If they still had the 4-seat CH640 available, I'd probably consider it. Too bad they did such a poor job marketing it, and then pulled the plug on it because "there was no demand". Most people never heard of it.
One other nice thing about Zenith, they don't really care what powerplant you want to install, as long as it meets certain weight and power requirements. That's a lot more in the true spirit of E-AB compared with some other kit makers out there.

Building E-AB based on economy is what leads to unfinished kits for sale.
E-AB is a long-term game. Cheaper to buy a 1970s bird in the short run, but a new build could be more economical in the long run, especially in the current GA climate.

already looking at something faster and I like the BD4C
I like the BD4 fuselage build method, with the bolted angles and glued on skin. Also the honeycomb ribs glued to the spar and using the space as a fuel tank is neat. Not a big fan of the tubular spar (heavier than it could be otherwise), and it means no easy way to add dihedral (if trying that solution on a low wing). Also, no wing washout, so stall characteristics might be a bit sporty.
I've always thought of Bede as being kind of sketchy....or was that only the jet?
Yes to both questions. They haven't been too good at delivering kits that were paid in full, and the jet was definitely not the safest thing out there.
 
Well there’s no panaceas. You’re looking at the most expensive segment of the E-AB market. If you want size and performance you are going to pay a premium. Going QB or factory assist to shorten the build time will just compound the cost side of things. 10 years to build, while not unheard of (mine took 9) is not the average for an RV, even a 10 which I’ve been following since 2003. Realistically you’re going to have to compromise somewhere.
 
Sling HW is the only one I would consider.
 
Cyclone kits are available again. I think the build budget is $600-700K and insurance will break the bank after that. I’ll keep my Skywagon!
 
I looked carefully at building a 4 seater about a decade ago. I found that I couldn't build a plane as cheaply as I could buy one, and buying would get me in air air MUCH faster. I bought a Maule and I've flown all over the country in the time when I would have been locked in a garage, hangar, or workshop. Look at the price of the kits, the price of engines and the price of instruments and unless you are willing to spend even more time scrounging for used parts, you can't build a plane as cheaply as you can buy one. Used plane prices have appreciated recently, but they are still a bargain compared to buying new, or even compared to building. So, unless a kit plane has attributes you need and can't get in a used aircraft, it doesn't make sense to build if what you really want to do is fly. If you like building for its own sake, that is a different calculation.

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Beautiful! Where is that?
 
I've always thought of Bede as being kind of sketchy....or was that only the jet?
Bede was a damn good airplane designer, but his marketing and business ability was beyond sketchy. Even his most notorious design, the BD-5, was a good airplane, but crippled by the lack of a reliable powerplant and the fact that it was a demanding airplane beyond the flying skills of many of its purchasers. The BD-4 was probably his most successful homebuilt design.

The later supersonic jet (not the jet powered BD-5) was a pipe dream.

The original American (later Grumman) Yankee was originally the BD-1.
 
The BD4 design looks like its easier to customize. I've read that some folks extend the wings or stretch the fuselage. I bet it would do well stretched in both directions with a GM alloy V-8 powerplant.
 
Buying a pre-built E-AB means no repairman certificate, and that is something I'd like to have.
Why? The only thing the repairman certificate allows you to do is your own condition inspections.
I have completely redesigned and built the primary control systems,(changed from cables to push/pull tubes) rebuilt a wing, and redesigned and built a new brake system on Experimental aircraft I have owned, but didn't build. Just required I put a log book entry of what I did and then have an A&P perform a condition inspection on the airplane.
I actually like the idea of someone else looking and signing off on work I have done as airworthy.

Brian
 
Why? The only thing the repairman certificate allows you to do is your own condition inspections.
I have completely redesigned and built the primary control systems,(changed from cables to push/pull tubes) rebuilt a wing, and redesigned and built a new brake system on Experimental aircraft I have owned, but didn't build. Just required I put a log book entry of what I did and then have an A&P perform a condition inspection on the airplane.
I actually like the idea of someone else looking and signing off on work I have done as airworthy.

Brian

I think we are getting to the crux of this. The simple, undeniable fact is that building a airplane in your garage is almost never a "reasonable" course of action. Having said that, it is an unreasonable course of action that I aspire to pursue one day.
 
The repairman cert is arguably a plus, but not a deal breaker for me. Consider a partially completed kit for good deal vs a new quick build.
 
The BD4 design looks like it’s easier to customize. I've read that some folks extend the wings or stretch the fuselage. I bet it would do well stretched in both directions with a GM alloy V-8 powerplant.
99 out of a hundred projects like that get abandoned because the builder lacks the skill to make and execute the airframe and engine customization it entails. Such projects end up being wasted money and broken dreams.
 
I dont doubt that. I think i would build it by the book and build the next one with any changes after plenty of flight time and consideration.
 
My Homebuilding aspirations went something like this...Sorry it's so long.

I got my pilots license.
I then started working for Denney Aircraft. (Kitfox), If you have S/N 500-1000 I probably cut the fuselage tubing or aluminum parts for it.
I purchased a partially completed Q2 project (I don't remember if I did this before or after starting working for Denney Aircraft) I did some work, but not a lot on it. Built a vertical fin and cut the wing cores.
Started working for Papa 51 (Thunder Mustang) at a glider shop they contracted out to to make the composite tooling for it.
Purchased a wrecked 1-26 Glider from the insurance company with the idea of rebuilding.
Purchased another wrecked 1-26 Glider with idea of having more parts, Still didn't make much progress on any of the projects.
Purchased a Flyable 1-26 Glider that would need the fuselage recovered soon.
Flew the glider one season, then stripped the glider fuselage down to the bare tubing and did a complete rebuild of the fuselage (replaced about 40% of the tubing due to rust). This was a certified glider so was doing it under the supervision of the A&P/IA I was working for. This took about 18 months to get it flyable and another 10 months to finish painting and recover the remaining control surfaces.
Just as the next flying season was getting started a friend offered of a EAB High performance (better than 30:1 glider ratio, actually rated at 38:1) That he had just put a new panel in and the insurance company had put a brand new $3000 canopy on after an incident. So I purchased it and sold the flyable 1-26
Some where after buying the 1st flyable glider I decided that having a flyable airplane was as much project as I needed. I enjoy working on them and I enjoy flying them, but mostly I like a mix of both, A long build (more than 2 years) is not what I wanted, So I put the Q2 and the other 2 glider projects up for sale.
After flying the new glider an HP16T(the one in my photo here) I determined that cockpit was not very comfortable I had to slide down in the cockpit with my knees up to fit in it. The original builder had originally built it to plans with a V Tail but didn't like the way the V Tail flew (too small) so he did his own version of a factory modification to a T Tail. This had the side effect that the mixing mechanism below the seat was not longer needed but the cables still ran under the seat. Working in the glider repair shop I had access to seeing other designs and determined I could change from cables under the seat to push pull tubes along the side and give myself about 5 more inches of head room. I copied/adapted and built a control system (control stick) from another glider (Ventus A). I essentially rebuilt everything forward of the seat back except the canopy and instrument panel (pedestal) I also replaced about a 12x18 piece of the bottom aluminum skin that had previously been damaged by a gear up landing (I don't know which owner did it, I knew all 3 of the previous owners). I flew it this way for a few years just sitting on a pad on the bottom skin of the cockpit area.
At some point the previous owner had purchased a set of winglets but they had not mounting system (just fiberglass shells), so I designed and installed a mounting system(they are removeable so the glider fits in the trailer) for them.
The glider repair shop, I wasn't working with them much then but was good friends with the owner who helped me with the projects and let me use the shop for my projects. They ended up building a mold for the fiberglass seat pan for another glider, (Pik20), I determined that it was very close the correct shape fit in my glider and ended up making another mold from it and building a fiberglass seat pan for my glider. This was even more comfortable and would be better in the event of a crash, than sitting on the bottom of the glider (bit of crush area, and another layer between me and ground).
I liked to fly with water, the glider had 20 gallon tanks in the wings for ballast, one year I noticed that the lower wing skin and debonded from rib. The design is similar to Grumman AA-1 aircraft with foam ribs glued to the aluminum skin. The original design was the water tanks were just made of the glued foam between the ribs. The factory prototype learned that the waterproof glue they used, wasn't and when they put water in the tanks after a couple flight the ribs would debond from the aluminum. This happened after the builder of my airplane was well along with the wing construction, so he modified it by putting 3 PVC pipes in each wing to hold the water. This worked well until one of the caps on the pipes started leaking. A lot of builders with this debonding issue, just drill holes in the skin and inject glue to rebond the skin, I didn't care for that plan so I peeled the wing skin off the ribs and completely reglued the skin, with the replacement glue that really is waterproof, Also it had the advantage I was able to repair the leak in the tank.
At some point I had a hard landing (was almost a gear up landing) and buckled the fuselage skin behind the landing gear I used this opportunity to install a baggage compartment there and replace the damaged bottom skin.
Another time a crosswind pushed me off the runway and I hit a runway light with the wing and had to repair the dent in the leading edge. It took me a day to get it flying the with help of my A&P friend. At bit more time to repaint the area.
After flying this glider for almost 20 years and almost 1000hrs, another friend offered up his glider for sale. It is a German factory built glider with about 43:1 glider ratio, and is registered as Experimental Racing and Exhibition, meaning I can still work on it. So I sold the HP16 and purchased the LS6b that I now fly.
After flying it a year or two I designed and installed a Hydraulic Matco Brake to replace the barely functioning mechanical brake it came with.
The next year I pulled the tail Ballast tank out of the tail to fix a leak in the valve on it.
I installed an ADS-B Transponder in it a few years ago.
My current project is I have found the factory drawings to install a nose hook for aero towing. It currently only has a CG hook which has some safety concerns (is not as stable as a nose hook when aero towing), So I am looking at fabricating the mounts and installing a nose hook probably after this years flying season.

I always seem to have enough design/ building projects along with normal maintenance to keep me plenty busy on my flying aircraft. Right now it is waiting for my to put all the covers on it after having the condition inspection done.

Mixed into those projects was working my way for the CFI/CFII/and CFIG ratings.

Brian
 
That picture was taken at Sullivan Lake (09S) in NE Washington State. Here's a video of flying there if you are interested:
Nice! Someday I hope I can fly to all the airports I've driven past, but it's a LONG list... Long enough that I haven't even bothered writing it all down.

That sure is some beautiful country out there that you get to fly around! I thought some of it looked familiar... I flew over some of it en route from KBFI to 65S a few years ago: https://plan.foreflight.com/shared/debrief/track/41200E9E-11A8-4AFF-9201-7286CB68EE03
 
In the time it takes to build an E-AB, you could get your AnP, buy a legacy airplane, maintain it yourself, and use the AnP license to moonlight and earn the money for all the avionics you wish to put in your legacy plane.
 
Thats definitely the risk you take with a NIB airplane kit...its likely sold incomplete at a loss. I think even if your labor is free, the price and delays in getting certified parts is a turn off, not to mention the difficulty of making improvements to certified engines and airframes.
 
In the time it takes to build an E-AB, you could get your AnP, buy a legacy airplane, maintain it yourself, and use the AnP license to moonlight and earn the money for all the avionics you wish to put in your legacy plane.
All great points, but when you can't find approved parts for the legacy plane at a reasonable cost the A&P cert won't help. We've already seen starters being 4x the cost just because some venture capitalist bought the company. In an E-AB I can go to AutoZone and get a new alternator, starter and fuel pump, off the shelf, for a fraction of the cost. An experimental autopilot is half the cost or less compared to the certified model. And so on.
 
All great points, but when you can't find approved parts for the legacy plane at a reasonable cost the A&P cert won't help. We've already seen starters being 4x the cost just because some venture capitalist bought the company. In an E-AB I can go to AutoZone and get a new alternator, starter and fuel pump, off the shelf, for a fraction of the cost. An experimental autopilot is half the cost or less compared to the certified model. And so on.
I can get a starter for an IO550 at AutoZone???

I had no idea! :dunno:
 
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