I fly through and into India (Leaving tonight for an around the world trip which will include the trek through their airspace). A lot of it is culture, their caste system, their ATC, maintenance etc. I am in no way disparaging the Indian people. Many extremely smart and to higher degree than here very friendly people. Their ATC system is extremely out dated, unreliable and combined with their English accents AND their belief that if one doesn't understand them then they must say it louder and FASTER, cause more looking at each other and saying "What did they say?" than just about anywhere else in the world.
Now for actual encounters.
You do not get your ATC clearance (as it is in many other places in the world) until you are ready to push back from the gate. The ATC clearance might or might not contain a departure procedure but that is not a problem because it WILL be changed prior to takeoff and most likely again as you lift off and will be changed as you depart...my record was five different departure procedures prior to 2000 feet.
It seems to be a state law there that one must NOT listen to the radio to ensure no one else is talking when you come on the frequency.
Took a 15 minute verbal chastising from a controller because I addressed him as a wrong center name. Why did you call us ????? center over and over. I finally just told me to shut up.
They have the capability to use CPDLC communications but don't seem to trust it. (controller pilot data link comm)
Good things about Indian ATC.
They are so bad that when they had a mid air a few years ago, my company was finally forced to put TCAS on our airplanes....they paid off the FAA and got a loophole for us.
My favorite thing to say to my F/O's when transiting through Indian and they are growing extremely frustrated with the ATC system....
Number 1....Remember this....they have the Nuclear Bomb.
Number 2....If they can get a Mig in the air, do you really think they could find us?
For anyone that has flown into or out of Mumbai as a pilot or passenger....Rwy 27 resurfaced but the V1 bump is still there.