Vehicle Towing advice

You guys run gas or alky in the dwarf cars ???

Street gas, actually. Just a 1000cc Motorcycle engine (GSX-R in my case). Alcohol is illegal, but every year it comes up again as a push. The mod is so expensive we usually vote it down.

The Sprints, on the other hand, mostly run alky. Those that run gas are the ones in the back. LOL.
 
Street gas, actually. Just a 1000cc Motorcycle engine (GSX-R in my case). Alcohol is illegal, but every year it comes up again as a push. The mod is so expensive we usually vote it down.

The Sprints, on the other hand, mostly run alky. Those that run gas are the ones in the back. LOL.


:rofl::lol:..

I ran 360's for several years and put a 410 in when the outlaws came through every January.... East Bay and Volusia County raceways....

I LOVE the smell and performance of Methanol.. I still run it in my open mod hill climber sled and believe it or not, all my chainsaws run on alky too...

Yeah,,, I am a serious motorhead...:redface::redface::redface:
 
Towing capacity is important.. Dodge 1/2 ton is 10k lbs... the ecodiesel 1/2 ton is 11k.. the 3/4 ton is 17k lbs and the 1 ton is 30k lbs.

Its not all about weight on the hitch or rear axle.... Automatic transmissions will overheat if you overload them.

If you have a toy hauler, you dont want a light one..they dont hold up. And if you have a toy hauler that is robust enough to last, its probably not a good idea to tow it with a half ton truck if you want the truck to be up to the task.

"half ton towable" is sometimes a matter of opinion. Look at the hard numbers for the trailer AND the tow vehicle.
 
Ah - its a Rage'n 30 footer. Picture:
00V0V_9FNYGy4jiuQ_600x450.jpg

I'm pretty sure you'll be fine with a 1/2 ton Dodge. I've hauled stuff like that before and no issues. You might have to adjust your tongue weight a bit to get it right. Remember to check your trailer tires, and keep them up to the high range of the air pressure. The weight dist hitch makes it nice. One of my favorite investments for towing bit stuff.
 
I'm pretty sure you'll be fine with a 1/2 ton Dodge. I've hauled stuff like that before and no issues. You might have to adjust your tongue weight a bit to get it right. Remember to check your trailer tires, and keep them up to the high range of the air pressure. The weight dist hitch makes it nice. One of my favorite investments for towing bit stuff.

I would rather be a little safer than a 1/2 ton for towing anything of that class. I'd cap a half tonner at 5,000#. but that is just me. I've had the tail wag the dog once, that is enough.
 
Love Dwarfs. That was the first class I ran, ran them for 5 years. I moved up to 410 Sprints until I had a artificial disc installed in my back. With one engine left in the garage I gave it a home in my Chevy LUV.

Back to the towing. I agree with a few others here that a 3/4 ton would be the safest route. I pulled my dwarf and my spare car in an enclosed trailer with my Motorhome. I had a Duelly for back up.
 
Love Dwarfs. That was the first class I ran, ran them for 5 years. I moved up to 410 Sprints until I had a artificial disc installed in my back. With one engine left in the garage I gave it a home in my Chevy LUV.

Back to the towing. I agree with a few others here that a 3/4 ton would be the safest route. I pulled my dwarf and my spare car in an enclosed trailer with my Motorhome. I had a Duelly for back up.
Yeah, Motor home the ultimate tow vehicle, we run 30,000# fully loaded, there is no such thing as the tail wagging the dog.
 

Attachments

  • front right.jpg
    front right.jpg
    210.9 KB · Views: 7
  • front 2.jpg
    front 2.jpg
    193.5 KB · Views: 6
  • DSCN0477.jpg
    DSCN0477.jpg
    208.8 KB · Views: 7
Shesh. I read the OPs statement. It was about hauling with a 1/2 ton truck.

Eff it. Get something with "Peterbilt" or "MACK" on the hood and be done with it.

I'm out.
 
One pice of advice you didn't ask for. get a set of tire pressure monitors, the first time you see a tire about to blow because of over inflation will be well worth the price. BTDT.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN3669.JPG
    DSCN3669.JPG
    208.3 KB · Views: 13
Shesh. I read the OPs statement. It was about hauling with a 1/2 ton truck.

Eff it. Get something with "Peterbilt" or "MACK" on the hood and be done with it.

I'm out.
Great Idea, International has a great hauler, up to 105k#
 
A redneck once told me, "you never have too much truck."
 
One pice of advice you didn't ask for. get a set of tire pressure monitors, the first time you see a tire about to blow because of over inflation will be well worth the price. BTDT.

Tire failure is way more common due to under-inflation than over-inflation. Heat builds very fast in under-inflated tires with sidewall and tread ply flex, along with much greater rolling resistance. Also, under-inflation is far more common due to lack of monitoring, since all tires lose pressure over time.
 
Tire failure is way more common due to under-inflation than over-inflation. Heat builds very fast in under-inflated tires with sidewall and tread ply flex, along with much greater rolling resistance. Also, under-inflation is far more common due to lack of monitoring, since all tires lose pressure over time.

This is very true, under inflation is the cause of over inflation due to heat. and you can watch it with a TPMS
TPMS will tell you what the optimal pressure is for the tires / load you have.
Our TPMS has determined that 97 PSI cold is the best pressure to run our 22.5 tires on out coach, it will be 105 after heating during the run. our max tire pressure is 120. we get a great ride at 97 cold / 105 hot.
 
Last edited:
Last edited:
Either 1/2 or 3/4 ton trucks will pull it no worries, the difference is in how it drives and handles when the wind picks up or the back of the trailer gets heavy. That's when it pays off really well to have the 3/4 ton rig, or a well modified 1/2 ton. If it's not hauling a lot of miles, the axle bearing issue is not a major one.
 
I pulled this from PA to Illinois using that jeep. We just got home when I snapped this pic.
 

Attachments

  • HI-Max 004.JPG
    HI-Max 004.JPG
    2 MB · Views: 28
Nick, you want a 3/4-ton or a 1-ton. 3/4-ton will be fine, but if you can get a good deal on a 1-ton SRW you'll be fine with it. Diesel is nice, but you'd do fine with a gas motor. The only difference the engine makes is acceleration, whereas the truck/suspension is what really matters here. I've liked the Ford gas V10s fine in the 200x models. Going older than your desired year range to get a more capable truck is fine and what I would do.

As others have said, the issue isn't the rated capacity. The 3/4 ton trucks are built tougher, better brakes, more stable, etc.

Don't discount a 3/4-ton Suburban or Excursion, I've owned both. I had a 2000 Ford Excursion V10 and that was a great tow vehicle, very reliable. Plus a great family hauler, we're wishing we kept it.

Right now we're in the towing situation you're setting yourself up for - we're towing our ~6,500 lb boat + trailer with Laurie's 1/2-ton Avalanche. Even after putting on upgraded anti-roll bars, upgraded brakes, and air springs, I'd say that it's "ok". It just doesn't have the stability of a 3/4-ton truck, and 60 is about as fast as I'm comfortable going. That's fine since the lake is a 45-minute drive on straight backroads where we're going under 50 most of the time, but if we were talking about longer drives routinely, no doubt we'd be looking for another tow vehicle, and with the kids it would probably be a 3/4-ton Suburban or Excursion again.
 
Oh, and also I've owned all 3 makes in 3/4-ton form. I would rank the Fords best overall (John, where's my kickback? :D), Dodge second, and Chevy last. The Chevys were also mid/late 90s models and there were significant improvements in the early 2000s.
 
I've towed a few things (my wooden boat and a monster wood chipper) that were very close to the max weight of my pickup. Yeah, it's not fun. Fortunately I wasn't going very far.
 
Before you buy a Dodge 1500 Diesel, read the consumer reports, the 1500 has a french (re-know) (sp) engine. it's not doing well IAW the consumer reports.
 
Before you buy a Dodge 1500 Diesel, read the consumer reports, the 1500 has a french (re-know) (sp) engine. it's not doing well IAW the consumer reports.

Renault is the spelling.
 
Nick, you want a 3/4-ton or a 1-ton. 3/4-ton will be fine, but if you can get a good deal on a 1-ton SRW you'll be fine with it. Diesel is nice, but you'd do fine with a gas motor . . . a 3/4-ton Suburban or Excursion again.

Agreed. Diesel is nice, but that Triton V10 was quite the workhorse and was significantly quieter than the diesels. I think the 3/4 ton will be good, and a decent gear ratio (minimum 3.73 or 4.10) will help a lot as well for acceleration in any hills/mountains.
 
Agreed. Diesel is nice, but that Triton V10 was quite the workhorse and was significantly quieter than the diesels. I think the 3/4 ton will be good, and a decent gear ratio (minimum 3.73 or 4.10) will help a lot as well for acceleration in any hills/mountains.

I never found myself wanting for more power with the V10, plus it has good engine braking. You're right, way quieter than the diesels. I'd buy another one in a heartbeat.
 
Agreed. Diesel is nice, but that Triton V10 was quite the workhorse and was significantly quieter than the diesels. I think the 3/4 ton will be good, and a decent gear ratio (minimum 3.73 or 4.10) will help a lot as well for acceleration in any hills/mountains.
that ford v10 was supposed to be excellent. I bought a diesel for the mileage and turbo at high alts.
I have run ford 460's towing and you can watch the gas gauge drop on hill climbs....
 
that ford v10 was supposed to be excellent. I bought a diesel for the mileage and turbo at high alts.
I have run ford 460's towing and you can watch the gas gauge drop on hill climbs....

Yeah, we ran a mid-90's F-250 w/460 as a tow vehicle for the landscape crew in my college years. It was definitely not an efficiency vehicle for towing a trailer with 4-walk behinds and 2-60" Commercial Zero-Turns, lol. To add to the misery, it had glass packs for mufflers, so it was all sorts of noisy. No shortage of power though.

The V-10 was a different animal. Very smooth running, and smooth power delivery. Being a "modern" design at the time, the Triton head design was efficient and reliable.
 
Yeah, I normally got 14-15 highway with my V10. A bit lower when towing, but not as much as you'd think. It was a low cost of ownership vehicle because it was so reliable.
 
Ted DuPuis;1796593[B said:
[B]]Yeah, I normally got 14-15 highway with my V10[/B].[/B] A bit lower when towing, but not as much as you'd think. It was a low cost of ownership vehicle because it was so reliable.

Wow.....

I am impressed..:yes:
 
Last edited:
My V10 in the F53 Chassis 20 foot Class A motorhome towing a 19 foot Bayliner gets 12 if I keep my foot out of it. The only bad thing with the V10 is waiting for it to spit out spark plugs. Let me add I am not a Ford guy, I wanted the Chevy platform but in 2000 when I bought it new the F53 was a much better rig.
 
Yeah, I normally got 14-15 highway with my V10. A bit lower when towing, but not as much as you'd think. It was a low cost of ownership vehicle because it was so reliable.
that's outstanding, and folks when I looked reported easily 200k + miles out of them.
The diesel didn't give me fits but at 16 qts per oil change it eats up the few extra MPG's I got, quick.
 
My V10 in the F53 Chassis 20 foot Class A motorhome towing a 19 foot Bayliner gets 12 if I keep my foot out of it. The only bad thing with the V10 is waiting for it to spit out spark plugs. Let me add I am not a Ford guy, I wanted the Chevy platform but in 2000 when I bought it new the F53 was a much better rig.

When I bought mine it had spit a few plugs for the previous owner that were helicoiled. The recommendation is retorque plugs every 10k miles because of this issue. I did it the first and second 10k. After that with no change in torque noted I extended my interval. No issues with plugs in the 70-80k I owned it.

The exhaust studs snapping is another issue on the modular motors. I managed to avoid this somehow.
 
My V10 in the F53 Chassis 20 foot Class A motorhome towing a 19 foot Bayliner gets 12 if I keep my foot out of it. The only bad thing with the V10 is waiting for it to spit out spark plugs. Let me add I am not a Ford guy, I wanted the Chevy platform but in 2000 when I bought it new the F53 was a much better rig.


Yeah the spark plug thing can really suck. When I bought my 2001 5.4 triton v8 I read about the issue and immediately replaced all the plugs (which are a pita to get to). I did it exactly how the experts said and torqued everything like they said

Two years later I blew a plug which destroyed the COP as well.
 
The spark plug blow out was an issue, but the helicoil and proper torque usually eliminates the problem going forward. The 04+ engines didn't suffer from the problem because Ford engineered more threads in the head from the factory, although they had a few issues with the 2-piece spark plugs breaking on the '04-'08's.
 
I never found myself wanting for more power with the V10, plus it has good engine braking. You're right, way quieter than the diesels. I'd buy another one in a heartbeat.

My middle son's first truck was 2000 model F-250 Supercab 4X4 V-10! I had sold it used to a friend of mine for his son, when he was 15, he kept it a couple years and tried to kill it. Logan got it with 125K miles on it, it still looked and ran great, he tried to kill it for the next year or two, then we sold it to one of his friends. His buddy drove it for another 3 or 4 years, he really tried to kill it, and I think he finally sold it with about 200K miles on it. It went through 3 teenage boys with no engine or transmission work, I think it would have ended up in a museum! :yes::yes:
The gas mileage wasn't too good with Logan driving! Maybe 12 on a good day. The only real downside it you can't find any aftermarket exhausts that sound good. :mad2: They make it sound like a 4 cyl. :dunno:
 
A redneck once told me, "you never have too much truck."

This. If you're going to tow more than 5k lbs on a regular basis, just get a one-ton diesel. Those are the Bonanzas of tow vehicles (it's what you'll end up with anyway).

Mark
 
The spark plug blow out was an issue, but the helicoil and proper torque usually eliminates the problem going forward. The 04+ engines didn't suffer from the problem because Ford engineered more threads in the head from the factory, although they had a few issues with the 2-piece spark plugs breaking on the '04-'08's.

Well, Ford fixed it so good, they created the opposite problem..which is trashing your threads trying to get a spark plug out to change them :)
 
The only real downside it you can't find any aftermarket exhausts that sound good. :mad2: They make it sound like a 4 cyl. :dunno:

It is hard to make a V10 sound good. I put on shorty headers, which sounded fine and gave a hair more low-end (according to my calibrated buttometer!).
 
Well, Ford fixed it so good, they created the opposite problem..which is trashing your threads trying to get a spark plug out to change them :)

Lol, heck it spurred the creation of a specific tool (Lisle tool) to extract the darn things! However, if you follow the TSB on replacement of spark plugs, you'll never have the issue again.

In any case, the V10 or 6.4L/6.7L diesels are fantastic engines. Price no object, get the 6.7L . . . going used and looking for a bargain, V10 all the way.
 
You got some good and some awful advice on towing so far.

Couple of points:

- Find the rear axle ratings, usually buried in the manufacturer's tech specs. Many light duty trucks hide this little gem in service manuals only and it's easy to exceed it.

- The folks quoting the maximum numbers from the manufacturers, don't realize that the truck's options on board subtract from those numbers. That's for a stripped "work truck" model usually.

4x4, more weight. Carpet? Stereo? Leather seats? Etc... All take towing capacity off of that pie in the sky number.

Most manufacturers have a chart somewhere of expected curb weight for each typical option package, buried somewhere. If it has creature comforts, it has less towing capacity than their max number for that model year.

TPMS for the rig and trailer, is one of the cheapest and best tools anyone could have ever come up with. Absolutely love it.

I'd go "3/4 ton" at least with that trailer. Remember, it's not just about hill climbing in the mountains either. It's about stopping. A truck designed to stop a trailer bigger than yours won't have many troubles. One designed to barely stop your trailer leaves you with very little safety margin.

I've had all six on the dually and all four trailer tires locked up on Parker Road before, when another guy forgot he was pulling a utility trailer and started into my lane. It's not a fun experience. It would not have been a good outcome with a 30' bumper tow. The pivot point forward of the rear axle was key in keeping it straight without an integrated trailer brake to ABS system.

I don't like bumper tow with stuff over 22'. All the fussing and forking around with an equalizer hitch and what not can be made to go away forever with a gooseneck or fifth wheel.

You're also going to want a good progressive brake controller with a rig that big.

Also make sure the trailer tires are up-rated and good quality tires. Most are known as "China-bombs" these days. (If you want the crappy E rated China bombs my fifth wheel came with, they're still in the garage where they've been since a month after buying them on the new trailer. We upgraded to F-rated and TPMS immediately.) Even the up rated tires are only rated for 65 MPH. Watch out for that. And slow down.

There's some random thoughts on it all. Take or leave.
 
Back
Top