stripped torque screw

SixPapaCharlie

SixPapaCharlie

May the force be with you
Joined
Aug 8, 2013
Messages
16,415
Display Name
Display name:
Sixer
Any ideas?

I can't notch it because it is on the throttle body so I can't get the dremel in there.

Just enough room for my vice grips to grab but no room to rotate them once gripped.


ideas?


oh, car not plane.
 
SixPapaCharlie said:
Any ideas?

I can't notch it because it is on the throttle body so I can't get the dremel in there.

Just enough room for my vice grips to grab but no room to rotate them once gripped.


ideas?


oh, car not plane.
Click to expand...

My first choice would be one of those "reverse spiral" easy outs.... Find one that fits the stripped out area as close as possible....
 
NO room to rotate? Or very little room? Moving it the slightest bit over and over again might be your best bet.

Oh, for the car not in bed. ;)
 
Drill it until the head falls off, then take the rest of it out when its disassembled?
 
Howard Wilson said:
Flexible drive cable for the dremel??
Click to expand...

I am going to run to the hardware store and see what sort of Dremel contraptions exist. Currently I am trying to JB Weld an Allen wrench to the screw I think that's going to fail
 

Attachments

  • 2015-04-04 18.31.40.jpg
    2015-04-04 18.31.40.jpg
    35 KB · Views: 115
How badly is it stripped? Any possibility of being able to punch another type of bit into it so it'll catch just enough to spin it?
 
If the JB doesn't hold....put some gentle heat on it from a heat gun (not a torch). Then try and wedge a larger wrench on it and turn.....possibly something that can bite, like a torx.
 
The MAC tool guy (often the other truck guys carry them as well) has the best extractors on the market. They are short reverse spiral taper heads on top of a 7/16 or larger hex block, looks like a mini Devil's Tower with a twist. You take the correct size drill bit and put a piece of tape around it to serve as a gauge. Just drill to the gauge and use a 1/4" drive and extension on the socket to get to the fastener.
 
Left-hand bit and an Easy-Out. Shouldn't be that difficult.

Rich
 
Can you get at it with a drill bit? Drill a small pilot hole, then use a screw extractor is the standard approach we used on the boat. Curse as appropriate, but the screw doesn't care.
 
What was the original head? Hex? Phillips?

These work well for removing mostly stripped Phillips screws if there's room:

F0VCL0MHTCNISWJ.LARGE.jpg
 
timwinters said:
What was the original head? Hex? Phillips?

These work well for removing mostly stripped Phillips screws if there's room:

F0VCL0MHTCNISWJ.LARGE.jpg
Click to expand...

That will work too.... A motorcyclists favorite tool when breaking apart gear cases....:yes::yes::)
 
what size torx? if it's a t25 see if you can hammer in a t27, if the next size up torx does not work I would try what henning posted
 
Seems like half the problem is getting enough access even to use a hammer.
 
Matthew said:
Seems like half the problem is getting enough access even to use a hammer.
Click to expand...


They do make extended Torx bits that fit the Impact Driver..... That would be my first plan of attack.....:yes:
 
Wow, all this effort?

It's a throttle body. Go to Pick'n'Pull and get another for $10.

Sometimes it just isn't worth it to do it "right."

If you do use an EZ-Out, DO NOT break it.
 
Last edited:
MAKG1 said:
Wow, all this effort?

It's a throttle body. Go to Pick'n'Pull and get another for $10.

Sometimes it just isn't worth it to do it "right."

If you do use an EZ-Out, DO NOT break it.
Click to expand...


He needs to remove THAT throttle body to be able to install a "Pick'n'Pull" unit...

Definately agreed on the EZ out comment.... If ya break one off, just call Mike Farlow and have him scrap the car....:sad::sad:.......:D
 
N801BH said:
He needs to remove THAT throttle body to be able to install a "Pick'n'Pull" unit...

Definately agreed on the EZ out comment.... If ya break one off, just call Mike Farlow and have him scrap the car....:sad::sad:.......:D
Click to expand...

Yes, but you can then destroy the old TB to get it out. Like cut off whatever part is in the way of the vise grips.

Assuming it really is the bolts holding the TB on. He didn't say. I've seen position sensors attached by smaller Torx bolts much more often than I've seen TBs.

Another tip is Kroil on the threads. It's amazing what that stuff will unstick. No, not Liquid Wrench or WD40.
 
well holy hell

I got to Lowes w/ 5 min to close.
Bought a drill flex extender, a dremel flex extender, revers screw extraction bits, and an assortment of dremel bits

tried to notch it but was pretty inaccurate about it
then drilled a pilot hole for the screw extraction, inserted the reverse thread deal and it seemed to be working until (Makg I broke it) it snapped off.

Then I cussed, cried a little, and had a couple beers while trying a bunch of things.

Very limited room under there.

Started rotating the TB and noticed the screw was rotating w/ it so at least it was moving.

Soaked it in liquid wrench

then got the biggest reverse thread screw thing and forced it int the head.
put a screw driver on the head of it so I coule hammer that screw driver and pounded that thing until it was stuck.

grabbed the vice grips and it let out a little squeak of defeat.

New TB installed and all prior symptoms gone.

Need to do the idle relearn procedure but it is running a lot better.
 
SixPapaCharlie said:
well holy hell

I got to Lowes w/ 5 min to close.
Bought a drill flex extender, a dremel flex extender, revers screw extraction bits, and an assortment of dremel bits

tried to notch it but was pretty inaccurate about it
then drilled a pilot hole for the screw extraction, inserted the reverse thread deal and it seemed to be working until (Makg I broke it) it snapped off.

Then I cussed, cried a little, and had a couple beers while trying a bunch of things.

Very limited room under there.

Started rotating the TB and noticed the screw was rotating w/ it so at least it was moving.

Soaked it in liquid wrench

then got the biggest reverse thread screw thing and forced it int the head.
put a screw driver on the head of it so I coule hammer that screw driver and pounded that thing until it was stuck.

grabbed the vice grips and it let out a little squeak of defeat.

New TB installed and all prior symptoms gone.

Need to do the idle relearn procedure but it is running a lot better.
Click to expand...

All that while I slept? :hairraise:

Um, thank you . . .
 
Place valve grinding compound in the end of the tool. I have used this on stripped screws and nuts. It really works well.
 
So car is running great but there is this "idle relearning" process that must take place. It is not straightforward.

The guy at autozone said it would take 9 driving cycles to sort itself out.
Not sure what that means.

Cars were easier before they put the computers in them
 
I think you mean computers were easier before they installed cars on top of them! :)
 
SixPapaCharlie said:
So car is running great but there is this "idle relearning" process that must take place. It is not straightforward.

The guy at autozone said it would take 9 driving cycles to sort itself out.
Not sure what that means.

Cars were easier before they put the computers in them
Click to expand...

After you've driven it 9 times, it should have worked itself out. Make sure you use the A/C a couple of times.
 
The problem is that this issue is never 'taught'.
Someone should bust the heads off a variety of fasteners in a range of situations, then present them to the student as a task.
We never look at de-headed fasteners until we have a problem!
Need to make plans to get more practice!
 
confused about the Idle relearn steps (and I have joined an altima forum but 06 altima owners are far less active than pilots)

Look at these steps:
http://www.altimaforums.net/idle-relearn-correct-way-t3398.html

When they say turn the key on, They mean "on" not turn the engine on right?
Surely, I am not holding the gas pedal to the floor for 20 seconds w/ the engine running??
 
Since the throttle position sensor is replaced, the computer needs to learn the parameters of the new sensor (potentiometer). The resistance at idle, and W.O.T. is not know for that particular sensor, hence the 20 second press to W.O.T. (with the car on, but engine off)

20 seconds wide open while the engine is running is only required when your wife is sleeping.
 
Henning said:
After you've driven it 9 times, it should have worked itself out. Make sure you use the A/C a couple of times.
Click to expand...

No, a drive cycle is more than that. You must go through all phases. It's not enough to drive it down the block 9 times.

9 cycles is a lot. I'd expect one or two.

Some cars have an adjustable base idle that the computer will then fine tune. This is adjusted with an air bleed screw or a throttle stop. And sometimes you can hasten it along by resetting the PCM with a scan tool.

Unless you have experience with this particular parts guy, he's the wrong resource. Knowledgeable parts guys exist, but quite a number will give bad advice.

I think 6PC does enough work on these that a factory shop manual will be useful.
 
Last edited:
"Drive Cycle" involves getting the engine up to full operating temperature while driving at various speeds including some stop and go plus some open road cruising before shutting the engine off.
 
Neal Howard said:
"Drive Cycle" involves getting the engine up to full operating temperature while driving at various speeds including some stop and go plus some open road cruising before shutting the engine off.
Click to expand...

Correct......

It takes several full cycles /events for the computer to "train" / teach itself of the new values it is seeing from the sensors...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top