Oil filler door repair

NealRomeoGolf

NealRomeoGolf

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The spring latch on my oil filler door decided to break. If you want to look it up, it's Piper part 472-017. The tab that you push down against the spring separated at the base where the latch retracts to allow the door to be opened.

So reading my FARs about what I can and can't do, there's the one about making simple repairs to non-structural cover plates. I would think an oil filler door qualifies for that.

Now for the stupid question. Can I solder that sucker back together? Tin solder's melting point is around 360F. The door is at the top of the cowling, away from the cylinders and with plenty of air flowing past it. I would think that door is subject to high temperatures. Is solder the right material to use? Probably not. Is it legal? No idea. Does the maintenance manual address such a thing? Not that I could find.

Replacement part costs $50 plus my A&P's time. Yes, I'm being cheap but this is certainly not a critical part of the plane. What do you think.

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aluminum is not solderable.....please don't do that.

Purchase the correct part....and rivet it in place....or if it's repairable...repair it with AN hardware.
 
NealRomeoGolf said:
The spring latch on my oil filler door decided to break. If you want to look it up, it's Piper part 472-017. The tab that you push down against the spring separated at the base where the latch retracts to allow the door to be opened.

So reading my FARs about what I can and can't do, there's the one about making simple repairs to non-structural cover plates. I would think an oil filler door qualifies for that.

Now for the stupid question. Can I solder that sucker back together? Tin solder's melting point is around 360F. The door is at the top of the cowling, away from the cylinders and with plenty of air flowing past it. I would think that door is subject to high temperatures. Is solder the right material to use? Probably not. Is it legal? No idea. Does the maintenance manual address such a thing? Not that I could find.

Replacement part costs $50 plus my A&P's time. Yes, I'm being cheap but this is certainly not a critical part of the plane. What do you think.

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Buy a new latch, have your A&P rivet it in. It's a simple fix, but riveting and soldering are a complex assembly. and not allowed by 43-A Par C 1-31
 
So I probably shouldn't mention Loctite epoxy weld either..... *sigh* Stupid flying addiction.
 
NealRomeoGolf said:
So I probably shouldn't mention Loctite epoxy weld either..... *sigh* Stupid flying addiction.
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Show me the acceptable repairs to non structural components in any aircraft M/M.
 
NealRomeoGolf said:
But you said soldering is complex so I can't do it.
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that's true you can't. unless you are a A&P.

Plus the fact what is broken is a spring, and they can't be welded or repaired in the field because we don't have the ability to re-heat treat.
and I doubt that you can just buy a spring for that latch, You will be required to buy a new latch. so why not put the new one in.
When you try to solder the latch you will destroy the paint.

easiest repair, = replace the latch, they are held in by 4 rivets.
 
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Tom-D said:
Show me the acceptable repairs to non structural components in any aircraft M/M.
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I can't. They barely show a picture of the door in the maintenance manual. So I'm not sure what your point is. Help an ignorant pilot out.
 
If you're going to fix it, fix it to be the best it can be. That is safer and less expensive in the long run. Fact of life.
 
coloradobluesky said:
If you're going to fix it, fix it to be the best it can be. That is safer and less expensive in the long run. Fact of life.
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This.

If you were in a pinch and had no A&P nearby, a temporary fix might get you home (e.g. taping the door shut after your preflight.) But if you have the option to fix it properly, then do that. Why risk more damage to the door flapping when in flight if the solder or epoxy solution fails?
 
NealRomeoGolf said:
I can't. They barely show a picture of the door in the maintenance manual. So I'm not sure what your point is. Help an ignorant pilot out.
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That question was directed at 6PC, not you.
Your repair is best done by your A&P who has the tools and ability to remove and replace the latch. The latch is common hardware and can be bought at Aircraft Spruce and specialities. (back in a bit with link)
 
The funny part is my A&P just did fix this door. But I'm not about to accuse him that his fix made it worse and caused the break. It's a freakin oil filler door. :mad2:
 
NealRomeoGolf said:
Replacement part costs $50 plus my A&P's time. Yes, I'm being cheap but this is certainly not a critical part of the plane. What do you think.
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Buy the latch, pay a half hour to have it replaced, don't worry about it again. Simplest and best solution. Doesn't cost much in airplane terms.
 
Just a side note: The oil filler door does have a safety purpose: It's the backup to the threads on the dipstick. Should you forget to tighten the dipstick down or have the thing shake loose, the door will catch the dipstick before it exits the aircraft and will slow down the oil loss.
 
Dude....it's $50 bucks or fly around with half arse repairs, this is how nice airplanes start to become piles of crap.

And depending on your skills and your relationship with your AP, you can fix it yourself and have him just inspect it and ink it.


Just fix it right, god my bar tab tonight will probably surpass that lol
 
According to PArt 43 Appendix A, preventive maintenance includes:
(12) Making small simple repairs to fairings, nonstructural cover plates, cowlings, and small patches and reinforcements not changing the contour so as to interfere with proper air flow.

Would that not allow the owner to fix it or does everyone think because it has 4 rivets that it is a complex assembly?
 
i was told that a old style clothes pin spring would work if you find the correct one.drill out the rivets and use new an stainless screws and all metal stop nuts to reinstall .
 
And after you go on a scavenger hunt for all these odd ball parts, preform surgery on a little latch, and finally are good to go, you'll wish you just ordered a new one and shot a few rivets.

I'm all for being crafty and saving money, but this is silly
 
The owner can do it if he determines it's a simple repair. If he "F's" it up and it comes open at the worst possible time (as things always do), that would be when there's an engine fire. It's his A $$.
 
Checkout_my_Six said:
give it to Tom....he'll solder it. :lol:
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as always posting this type of stuff.
but I won't, those latches are stainless steel, the door is aluminum, simply not a solderable repair. Why do you believe Beech riveted it?
Utictic, (sp) is an aluminum solder that can be used to repair /patch a non structural fairings, not to repair or hold latches.
 
That aluminum solder stuff theoretically works, but in practice it's extremely difficult to actually get a good bond, and the stresses in a spring latch can be quite high. I'm with the others, just get a new latch.
 
If you don't want to spend for a new latch,what are you going to do when something,more expensive goes bad?
 
Tom-D said:
as always posting this type of stuff.
but I won't, those latches are stainless steel, the door is aluminum, simply not a solderable repair. Why do you believe Beech riveted it?
Utictic, (sp) is an aluminum solder that can be used to repair /patch a non structural fairings, not to repair or hold latches.
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you're the one that said it could be soldered.....:lol:

Tom-D said:
yes it is.
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Checkout_my_Six said:
you're the one that said it could be soldered.....:lol:
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Sorry, no he didn't. His very first response said buy a new latch and have it riveted. The response you quoted was just refuting your statement that aluminum could not be soldered.
 
You are going to fix the latch. Then the door frame will fail. Then the top cowl will need repair and repaint. Then new top will not match the bottom . . .

Cheaper to buy a new Cirrus with a warranty, if your wife asks me.
 
frfly172 said:
If you don't want to spend for a new latch,what are you going to do when something,more expensive goes bad?
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I think you guys all completely miss the point, which is par for the course on the internet. Something is broken. What gets you back up in the air quickest? Can you, the pilot, perform the work? Can you do it cheaper than (but properly) having to take it to the A&P, which requires a flight to another field, during the holidays, with a $2 part that costs $50. It's also a part on the plane that JUST GOT FIXED by the A&P 3 weeks ago. I'm pretty sure the same logic goes through all of your heads but it is much easier to be an armchair quarterback. I just happened to put my logic out there for public comment.
 
NealRomeoGolf said:
I think you guys all completely miss the point, which is par for the course on the internet. Something is broken. What gets you back up in the air quickest? Can you, the pilot, perform the work? Can you do it cheaper than (but properly) having to take it to the A&P, which requires a flight to another field, during the holidays, with a $2 part that costs $50. It's also a part on the plane that JUST GOT FIXED by the A&P 3 weeks ago. I'm pretty sure the same logic goes through all of your heads but it is much easier to be an armchair quarterback. I just happened to put my logic out there for public comment.
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First of all, if it was fixed by an actual A&P with proper certificates, then you are probably mistaken about it being broken. And, in the unlikely event that it is broken, it is probably due to a pilot attempting some unauthorized maintenance - but in any case, the determination that it is or is not broken should be left to a professional during the next annual.

Second, replacing the part would involve replacing 4 rivets which, since you have a type certificated aircraft, is a highly technical task that can only be accomplished properly with the requisite paperwork - and only a properly certificated A&P would be trained in correctly making log book entries and filling out invoices. People doing work without completing the proper maintenance records is the number one cause of aviation accidents.

Now, some anti-authority scofflaw may attempt to tell you that you could set 4 rivets with an effing hammer, but that would be a heresy that could be punished by excommunication.
 
NealRomeoGolf said:
I think you guys all completely miss the point, which is par for the course on the internet. Something is broken. What gets you back up in the air quickest? Can you, the pilot, perform the work? Can you do it cheaper than (but properly) having to take it to the A&P, which requires a flight to another field, during the holidays, with a $2 part that costs $50. It's also a part on the plane that JUST GOT FIXED by the A&P 3 weeks ago. I'm pretty sure the same logic goes through all of your heads but it is much easier to be an armchair quarterback. I just happened to put my logic out there for public comment.
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No.....you miss the point! You shouldn't have to ask! simply have an ap repair it to original condition. Explain the situation to the ap who fixed it and unless he's an idiot he should fix his mistake. Simply cover the hole with duct tape, fly it to him if necessary. End of story. If your worried about the low cost then perhaps you should sell the airplane and buy a used Honda Civic.
 
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