Oil changing... Piper Archer

cowman

cowman

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I'm just a couple hours from 50 on tach time so I guess it's time for an oil change. I've done cars for years and I watched the A&P do it at annual so I think I know what I'm doing in general.

So for safety wire is this anything special. I have a roll of "mechanics wire" from harbor freight... same stuff? Or does it need to be magical FAA certified wire?

Other thing is the lower cowling... I wasn't there when they pulled it off or reinstalled it. You just take all the little screws out? Is it possible to just pull those vents out of the side to get access with less work? IIRC the drain is just a valve with a fitting on it to run a hose to.

Oh and just for my curiosity's sake... is there something about this $25 oil filter that makes it somehow superior in oil filtration ability vs the ones I get at wal-mart for my car that cost about $5? I really hope this isn't another case of the aviation cost multiplier...
 
I believe aviation safety wire is stainless steel. You would be well advised to just buy a spool of aviation safety wire from Aircraft Spruce. While you are there order Tempest oil filters. They are cheaper than Champion and have a magnet in the end to collect steel shavings. They are top notch filters.

The cowling removal is pretty straight forward. Just keep removing screws until you can take it off. Look for things that have to be loosened or removed inside the cowl. Like the air inlet? Maybe have the A&P show you? Don't do things to your certified your A&P won't like. :no:

Yes, you can use NAPA Auto parts on your plane.... if it is experimental. :D. The main issue is bypass pressure. That is the pressure the filter is bypassed and the oil goes through the filter without filtering. Automotive filters generally have a lower bypass pressure. We have used a specific NAPA filter that the specs say match the Tempast counter part. I have a buddy that has used them for years. Only had one burst open under pressure. It was defective from the factory, but a failure is a failure. Never heard of a certified filter bursting under pressure. :dunno:

YMMV
 
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So you want to use non certified parts ,in a certified airplane ,and you want to do it yourself,without ever having been supervised by an A&P. if the prices are driving you crazy maybe you should go experimental.
 
Drat, my genius plan of saving $20 by making my airplane unairworthy and then posting about it on the internet has been foiled.
 
I would suggest that the first time through you do the oil change under supervision of your A&P.

Yes, aircraft safety wire is stainless steel.
 
cowman said:
Drat, my genius plan of saving $20 by making my airplane unairworthy and then posting about it on the internet has been foiled.
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You live in WI and fly certified? Blasphemy! ;)

Call the A&P, pay him the first $20 saved to show you how to change by our oil. Yes, I am serious, if you were gonna use Harbor Freight bailing wire. ;):lol:
 
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Norman said:
I would suggest that the first time through you do the oil change under supervision of your A&P.

Yes, aircraft safety wire is stainless steel.
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He showed me how to do the safety wire on the filter and how the oil quick drain works when it was in for annual last year. I think I even spun the filter on. Only part I didn't see was the lower cowling removal and from what I read above it's pretty much what I thought from looking at it.

The A&P told me straight up that it was really easy and a big waste of money to have them do it. Besides I've never taken a car, tractor, lawn mower, etc in to have someone change my oil. Why start with airplanes?

I'll order the proper safety wire though, that's why I asked about it. To the eyes it looks like the same stuff.
 
The Dakota should be the same/similar to your Archer. Lower cowl removal not required.

We slip the drain hose up thru the exhaust opening in the lower cowl and onto the quick release drain, other end in a bucket. Open the quick release and drain into the bucket. Open the dipstick to facilitate drainage.

An oil bottle with bottom cut open, and drain hose attached to the spout under the oil filter to catch the contents, clip the safety wire, then we drill a drain hole in the edge of the filter, spin it off half a turn and drill a vent hole opposite to drain the filter.

After the filter drains, remove it and the drain tube.

After the sump drains, close the quick release and remove the drain tube.

Install new filter (with DC-4 lubricant on the rubber seal), safety wire secure.

Double check quick drain release closed, add oil, replace dipstick, run up and check for leaks, sign off oil change and park it.

We cut open and inspect filter media the next day or so.
 
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There we go, I knew I'd seen/heard someone describe doing that without removing the lower cowling. Would you know off the top of your head what size hose you use?
 
cowman said:
There we go, I knew I'd seen/heard someone describe doing that without removing the lower cowling. Would you know off the top of your head what size hose you use?
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No big deal on the hose - anything that fits the quick drain. I hook safety wire around the end of the hose and wrap it around the drain, just to avoid it slipping off and letting oil drool all over the inside of the bottom cowl.

I speak from experience.

Take the top cowl off, easy to see what you're doing. Yes, I know it has to come off in order to remove the oil filter. Remember, the oil filter is horizontal....be prepared for a mess if Greg's used oil bottle trick fails...

I speak from more experience.

If you are doing oil samples for testing, let a quart or so drain first then grab a small sample.
 
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gkainz said:
The Dakota should be the same/similar to your Archer. Lower cowl removal not required.

We slip the drain hose up thru the exhaust opening in the lower cowl and onto the quick release drain, other end in a bucket. Open the quick release and drain into the bucket. Open the dipstick to facilitate drainage.

An oil bottle with bottom cut open, and drain hose attached to the spout under the oil filter to catch the contents, clip the safety wire, then we drill a drain hole in the edge of the filter, spin it off half a turn and drill a vent hole opposite to drain the filter.

After the filter drains, remove it and the drain tube.

After the sump drains, close the quick release and remove the drain tube.

Install new filter (with DC-4 lubricant on the rubber seal), safety wire secure.

Double check quick drain release closed, add oil, replace dipstick, run up and check for leaks, sign off oil change and park it.

We cut open and inspect filter media the next day or so.
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:yeahthat:

I have a Warrior and use pretty much the same technique. Hose is at the hangar, can't tell you what size. I go through where the nose gear is and not where the exhaust is ( I guess because it would melt the hose with the engine being hot).
 
After 50 hrs it is good to take the lower cowling off as well. It is better for inspecting the other parts of the engine. Not ALL the screws have to come off the lower cowl. 5 minutes, it is off. Disconnect one landing light wire.
 
Norman said:
I would suggest that the first time through you do the oil change under supervision of your A&P.
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:yeahthat:

Yes, aircraft safety wire is stainless steel.
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32/1000 thickness is normal for the oil filter -- safe the 41/1000 for prop bolts and the like. And invest in quality safety wire spinner pliers, like the MIL-BAR units. The $20 China cheapos aren't worth the savings.
 
Well, I didn't see an A&P do it, and I managed. I just read up on it, watched a video on safety wiring and went and did it. It's not bad advice, but it's certainly not rocket surgery either.

If you're going to do oil analysis, have the kit already because they want you to take the sample "mid stream" while draining the oil.
 
Ron Levy said:
And invest in quality safety wire spinner pliers, like the MIL-BAR units. The $20 China cheapos aren't worth the savings.
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Meh...

There's a huge difference in the quality you need if you use them every day or use them just a few times a year. I bought this kit from Spruce and it's served me well for over ten years. Still haven't had to buy wire either:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/safetywirekits.php

Similarly, when I was in business I had a $20,000 total station that I'd use on job sites for layout. I sold it as soon as I quit building for a living. Now, I use string line and 3-4-5 triangles to lay out the one or two buildings that I'm involved with each year.

I would never advise someone to buy a $20k total station to lay out a shed they're building in the backyard.
 
cowman said:
There we go, I knew I'd seen/heard someone describe doing that without removing the lower cowling. Would you know off the top of your head what size hose you use?
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I believe it's a 3/8" hose for the quick drain.
 
gkainz said:
I believe it's a 3/8" hose for the quick drain.
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They can vary. My plane got a new quick drain at the last annual and "the nipple" is a lot smaller than the old one. A garden hose friction fit perfectly on the old one...the new one is probably 3/8 like you state. I haven't got the right size hose for it yet, I just safety wired the garden hose to the "handles."
 
kgruber said:
After 50 hrs it is good to take the lower cowling off as well. It is better for inspecting the other parts of the engine.
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Agreed. After 50 hours you're bound to find something that is going to need attention, if you don't you're probably not looking hard enough.

Ron Levy said:
And invest in quality safety wire spinner pliers, like the MIL-BAR units. The $20 China cheapos aren't worth the savings.
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There's no reason he even needs lockwire pliers but if he gets some there are less expensive options that will work. I've been wrenching professionally for a few years now using a set of used Taiwan pliers that were given to me. They work fine.
 
I have fencing pliers, needle nose pliers, standard pliers, slip joint.... probably a couple of others that I'm not thinking of.

I twist wire for fence all the time with normal or needlenose pliers... not really hard if you're practiced.
 
cowman said:
I'm just a couple hours from 50 on tach time so I guess it's time for an oil change. I've done cars for years and I watched the A&P do it at annual so I think I know what I'm doing in general.

So for safety wire is this anything special. I have a roll of "mechanics wire" from harbor freight... same stuff? Or does it need to be magical FAA certified wire?

Other thing is the lower cowling... I wasn't there when they pulled it off or reinstalled it. You just take all the little screws out? Is it possible to just pull those vents out of the side to get access with less work? IIRC the drain is just a valve with a fitting on it to run a hose to.

Oh and just for my curiosity's sake... is there something about this $25 oil filter that makes it somehow superior in oil filtration ability vs the ones I get at wal-mart for my car that cost about $5? I really hope this isn't another case of the aviation cost multiplier...
Click to expand...


What the filter has is an end on it that accepts a wrench and safety wire. Use stainless safety wire and orient it in such a way the loosening the filter will stretch the wire. Neatness counts, especially making your tail. Karma will repay laziness with a cut next time you reach in. The filter material is typical stuff, they are a good quality filter.

Now, I have seen these billet aluminum spin on replacements that open up to reveal layers of fine mesh that can be inspected, cleaned, and reinstalled, that I was looking to put on the 310. They weren't that bloody expensive from what I recall.
 
Henning said:
Neatness counts, especially making your tail. Karma will repay laziness with a cut next time you reach in.
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:yeahthat:

Almost every safety wire tail under my cowl has a small dab of RTV on it. This after they're rolled over.
 
I have done tons of aviation oil changes. I am still on my first spool of safety wire, and the entire set up if I added it up was under $100 (bucket, piece of garden hose, screwdriver, safety wire pliers, roll of safety wire).

The first time my plane was due for an oil change the mechanic said "bring it over Saturday."
I watched her do it.

The second time my plane was due for an oil change, she said "bring it over Satruday" and when I did she handed me a screw driver and the bucket and told me that I had seen her do it and I could.
 
timwinters said:
There's a huge difference in the quality you need if you use them every day or use them just a few times a year.
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You won't get many uses out of the cheapo, and those uses will be difficult. BTDT. The investment in a quality tool is worth it, because the bitter taste of poor quality lingers long after sweetness of low price is gone.
 
cowman said:
I have fencing pliers, needle nose pliers, standard pliers, slip joint.... probably a couple of others that I'm not thinking of.

I twist wire for fence all the time with normal or needlenose pliers... not really hard if you're practiced.
Click to expand...

Reaching in, around, behind.... It really does pay to get safety wire pliers to spin them up.
 
Ron Levy said:
You won't get many uses out of the cheapo, and those uses will be difficult. BTDT. The investment in a quality tool is worth it, because the bitter taste of poor quality lingers long after sweetness of low price is gone.
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I've had the $15 cheapo for almost 15 yrs with no problems the 3-4 times a year they are in use.
 
Our club has a Warrior and an Archer. It seems like one of them is always about ready for an oil change.

If you're in Austin feel free to come by and help one of us do the change. It's easier than changing the oil on my Ninja 250 motorcycle!
 
murphey said:
I've had the $15 cheapo for almost 15 yrs with no problems the 3-4 times a year they are in use.
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For wire pliers cheapos work fine and they all use the same cheap latch and spin mechanism. The main difference I find is in the finish of the joint. Good ones work much smoother is all, and for a pro that's worth it because of all the combined increments of time saved across a week, year, or career. If it takes you an extra minute or two to get everything latched up and spun up the few times you use it, no big deal.

Ratchets are where it pays off to buy the best, because a cheap ratchet will cost you a knuckle every time you use it.:rofl:
 
Henning said:
l.

Ratchets are where it pays off to buy the best, because a cheap ratchet will cost you a knuckle every time you use it.:rofl:
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Craftsman, and snap-on only here.. I'll say the same for sockets...
 
sferguson524 said:
Craftsman, and snap-on only here.. I'll say the same for sockets...
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$16 - One of my favorite tools ever. Works great on screws and in tight spaces and yes a socket adapter turns it into a regular ratchet.

Tight spaces tip, just grind down bits so just the drive end of it sticks out of the wrench.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Mi...CSAE/202934673?N=5yc1vZc242ZrdZ12kyZ12kzZ12l0

Very popular here. I bet there is at least 100 mechanics that have a set at this facility.
 
sferguson524 said:
Craftsman, and snap-on only here.. I'll say the same for sockets...
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I have a bunch of wonderful quality Craftsman tools from 15...20...30 years ago. You couldn't pay me enough to buy what they're selling today though.
 

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Tim,

I agree with you.. I inherited most of my grandfather's craftsman stuff from the 60s.
 
I second lower cowl removal. If something goes wrong better oil goes on the floor than the cowling. Besides, how often do you really get that good a look at your engine? Our cowling is 6 or eight screws and takes minutes to remove, though it does take two.
 
Anything one should inspect extra closely... aside from looking for obvious leaks/cracks/broken stuff?
 
cowman said:
Anything one should inspect extra closely... aside from looking for obvious leaks/cracks/broken stuff?
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Yeah, have a general look around, tug on safety wire, feel hoses, inspect the mount system, inspect the belt, any dabs of anti sabotage paint... Also use a clean bucket, 2 or 1 and a 2 1/2 gallon gas can is even better then you can use funnel with a paper towel as a filter to pour the oil through and inspect as well as cutting open the filter. Don't forget to get a sample for analysis. Oil analysis is a cheap way to know when to tear into an engine before it gets super expensive.
 
sferguson524 said:
Craftsman, and snap-on only here.. I'll say the same for sockets...
Click to expand...

Williams is a Snap On brand made in China but of good quality and reasonable price. I put a set on this boat in February and have been pleased with them so far.
 
murphey said:
I've had the $15 cheapo for almost 15 yrs with no problems the 3-4 times a year they are in use.
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Use them a dozen times a day like A&P's do and they won't last long.

There's much good to be said for buying quality tools.
 
Norman said:
Use them a dozen times a day like A&P's do and they won't last long.

There's much good to be said for buying quality tools.
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There isn't a really good quality set made anymore that I've found. I had to finish my last set I bought, I think I gave $45 for a set of 2. A big and a small one. They had tight hinges so I dissolved some white buffing compound in phosphoric acid and worked them for about 15 minutes each in the bowl.
All the ones I see have the same crappy latch and spinner, the more expensive ones have a smoother finish.
 
Norman said:
Use them a dozen times a day like A&P's do and they won't last long.

There's much good to be said for buying quality tools.
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I agree on quality tools. But I'm not an A&P, don't use them dozens of times a day. My Craftsman wrenches and sockets are more than 20 yrs old. Would never give them up.

Now for my professional tools, I buy the best quality monitors because I'm staring at them all day. And none of those cheap hard drives or memory, only the quality stuff I know is reliable and I can depend on the manufacturer guarantee and warranty.
 
cowman said:
So for safety wire is this anything special. I have a roll of "mechanics wire" from harbor freight... same stuff? Or does it need to be magical FAA certified wire?
Click to expand...

Safety wire is available in several diameters. The most common are .020, .032, and .041. They are generally sold in containers of one lb. net weight.

Several materials are available, the most common (and the one you should use) is Type 302/304 stainless steel. Inconel and Monel are a little spendy for use on spam cans. ;)

I believe the wire used on your oil filter is .032.
 
Also I didn't notice anyone mentioning it, and I'm sure you already know this, make sure you run the plane (few laps in the pattern) to get the oil hot before changing the oil
 
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