Erect-a-Tube Hangar Door Openers

Lowflynjack

Lowflynjack

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Jack Fleetwood
Asking for a friend...

So our hangars are erect-a-tube. We now have four sets of 12. Two buildings were built years ago, then one set later, and now a brand new set.

On the first set, you push the button once to open the door. To close them, you have to push and hold the down button. If you let go, it's stops. Obviously for safety.

On the second set, you can push the up button once to open them, and push the down button once to close them. You don't have to hold the button to close the door.

On the newest set, you have to push and hold the open and close buttons the entire time you're opening and closing the door. Does anyone know how to change this to where the open button will open the door without holding it. I know, minor inconvenience and not a big deal. I'm, I mean my friend, is wondering if it's something easy to change.
 
I think a lawyer was involved with that. My hangar door has the same issue. During one of my complaints about it, I was informed that all I needed to do was move a single wire. I have no idea which wire that may be though.
 
Anymouse said:
I think a lawyer was involved with that. My hangar door has the same issue. During one of my complaints about it, I was informed that all I needed to do was move a single wire. I have no idea which wire that may be though.
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I'm okay with holding the button to make it go down, but it doesn't seem to add much safety to hold it when going up. Although with lawyers and the court system, it doesn't have to make sense! Of course around here, I see guys just jam a popsicle stick or small paint brush into the button to hold it down.
 
Lowflynjack said:
Asking for a friend...

So our hangars are erect-a-tube. We now have four sets of 12. Two buildings were built years ago, then one set later, and now a brand new set.

On the first set, you push the button once to open the door. To close them, you have to push and hold the down button. If you let go, it's stops. Obviously for safety.

On the second set, you can push the up button once to open them, and push the down button once to close them. You don't have to hold the button to close the door.

On the newest set, you have to push and hold the open and close buttons the entire time you're opening and closing the door. Does anyone know how to change this to where the open button will open the door without holding it. I know, minor inconvenience and not a big deal. I'm, I mean my friend, is wondering if it's something easy to change.
Click to expand...
Is there a manufactures Model # on the controller? Can you get the wiring diagrams?
 
Not at home, so no picture. But for my hold-to-close button, Velcro loop strip, riveted loop side in to switch case on left, small button sized block of wood screwed into loop side center, hook patch riveted to case on right. Pull and attach from left to right so as to keep close button engaged, already installed limit switch stops the motor.
 
Lowflynjack said:
Asking for a friend...

So our hangars are erect-a-tube.

On the newest set, you have to push and hold the open and close buttons the entire time you're opening and closing the door.
Click to expand...

I have one of these and absolutely hate it. I'm very interested in replacing the buttons with a three position switch or something.
 
catmandu said:
for my hold-to-close button, Velcro loop strip, riveted loop side in to switch case on left, small button sized block of wood screwed into loop side center, hook patch riveted to case on right. Pull and attach from left to right
Click to expand...


I should try these on my hangar.


upload_2017-9-27_10-29-35.png
 
Talk about a first world problem. I have to hold a button down for 45 seconds. whaaa. ;)
 
I know which wire.
Send me $10,000.00 and I'll send you the fix.
Hey! I'm trying to pay for my addiction.
 
The controller on my Schweiss (which it appears to be part of a LIFTMASTER garge door opener), allows you to strap it so that you have to hold the button or not. I've got mine set to open on a single button push but you have to hold it down to close it.
 
On the older style, some guys would jam something in the down button and head out. The big problem is, if you forgot to pull out whatever you jammed the down button with, then hit the up button, the door goes up until it jams open, then you have to get a ladder and manually lower the door. This takes forever!

Salty said:
Talk about a first world problem. I have to hold a button down for 45 seconds. whaaa. ;)
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LOL. My friend lives in the first world, so that's the only type of problems he has!

Shepherd said:
I know which wire. Send me $10,000.00 and I'll send you the fix.
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Check is in the mail.
 
Lowflynjack said:
I'm okay with holding the button to make it go down, but it doesn't seem to add much safety to hold it when going up. Although with lawyers and the court system, it doesn't have to make sense! Of course around here, I see guys just jam a popsicle stick or small paint brush into the button to hold it down.
Click to expand...
I’ve spent many door cycles contemplating that. The only thing I can think of is that you could get your neck caught in a loop of cord or something else attached to the door, take a slow ride up with the door, and die of asphyxiation (due to the thinner air at that elevation).
 
I have not looked at the control logic for my single phase 115 VAC Schwiess (sp?) hangar door (actually I think it is 230 VAC) but it uses a three button switchbox with momentary UP, momentary DOWN, and a center-off STOP pushbutton. The pushbutton is mechanically interlocked with up-down buttons so that it is necessary to go through the center-off each cycle There is also a limit switch in both up and down directions. All is flawless.:)

Never gave it a thought before.:)
 
iamtheari said:
I’ve spent many door cycles contemplating that. The only thing I can think of is that you could get your neck caught in a loop of cord or something else attached to the door, take a slow ride up with the door, and die of asphyxiation (due to the thinner air at that elevation).
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We had a bad flood at our airport a few years ago. A guy was trapped in a hangar and couldn't get out because the current was too strong. The Fire Department had to come get him and with 4 firemen pulling a hose wrapped around his waist they finally got him out. Then one of our locals said, "I would have hit the up button on the door and rode it up." Not sure it would work, but thought it was a pretty cool thought! Could be safer to have the up button not be momentary!
 
nrpetersen said:
I have not looked at the control logic for my single phase 115 VAC Schwiess (sp?) hangar door (actually I think it is 230 VAC) but it uses a three button switchbox with momentary UP, momentary DOWN, and a center-off STOP pushbutton. The pushbutton is mechanically interlocked with up-down buttons so that it is necessary to go through the center-off each cycle There is also a limit switch in both up and down directions. All is flawless.:)

Never gave it a thought before.:)
Click to expand...

When I'm done flying, we spend a lot of time in the hangar drinking beer. I have a lot of time to think about such things!
 
Always cut the red wire. Or is it the blue wire?
 
This hangar is less than 5 years old
 

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Shepherd said:
I know which wire.
Send me $10,000.00 and I'll send you the fix.
Hey! I'm trying to pay for my addiction.
Click to expand...

As long as you call it an STC, folks won’t bat an eye at paying it...
 
The danger of not having a deadman on the up function is the up limit switch failing (which I've had happen numerous times). If you are lucky, all it does is overload the motor and trip the breaker. Worst case it bends the motor mount, or even breaks the cables and let's the door drop (had it happen). We have since been changing all of our doors to deadman style.

I'm not personally fond of bi fold doors. That is a whole lot of weight suspended overhead, and I've personally seen them drop without much warning, and even come completely off a building more than once. If it wasn't for living in a northern climate, I would prefer rolling doors.
 
midwestpa24 said:
The danger of not having a deadman on the up function is the up limit switch failing (which I've had happen numerous times). If you are lucky, all it does is overload the motor and trip the breaker. Worst case it bends the motor mount, or even breaks the cables and let's the door drop (had it happen). We have since been changing all of our doors to deadman style.

I'm not personally fond of bi fold doors. That is a whole lot of weight suspended overhead, and I've personally seen them drop without much warning, and even come completely off a building more than once. If it wasn't for living in a northern climate, I would prefer rolling doors.
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On my hangar it has an emergency stop at the top, limit switches in the gearbox, and the deadman. I think we can do without the deadman.

Also, there is no safety switch preventing the door from running with the latches engaged. Various people have already ran the motor to overload multiple times as the damn door was latched when they pushed the open button.
 
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bnt83 said:
On my hangar it has an emergency stop at the top, limit switches in the gearbox, and the deadman. I think we can do without the deadman.

Also, there is no safety switch preventing the door from running with the latches engaged. Various people have already ran the motor to overload multiple times as the damn door was latched when they pushed the open button.
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The new doors do, they have a safety switch installed on the gust lock that prevents the door from moving until the locks are flipped back. That helps prevent another problem that we have dealt with numerous times. We have had a door that was coming down actually get stuck on the extended gust lock. Amazing that the single bolt can hold the weight of the door. Then when that happens the cables go slack, back wind, and create one hell of a mess.

Trust me, if there is a fail point in a bi-fold door, we have probably seen it. I've seen up limits fail, down limits fail, cables break, gust locks catch doors, entire doors come off the building, even the wind flip a door out and up. They are nice when they work, but their failures can be eye-opening.
 
bnt83 said:
It looks to me like the easiest way would be replacing momentary-on pushbuttons with a different switch.
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Since it's a city-owned hangar, I'm sure they would frown on this. I was looking for a less obvious way.
 
midwestpa24 said:
The new doors do, they have a safety switch installed on the gust lock that prevents the door from moving until the locks are flipped back. That helps prevent another problem that we have dealt with numerous times. We have had a door that was coming down actually get stuck on the extended gust lock. Amazing that the single bolt can hold the weight of the door. Then when that happens the cables go slack, back wind, and create one hell of a mess.

Trust me, if there is a fail point in a bi-fold door, we have probably seen it. I've seen up limits fail, down limits fail, cables break, gust locks catch doors, entire doors come off the building, even the wind flip a door out and up. They are nice when they work, but their failures can be eye-opening.
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The locks on this door cannot support any weight, they will pivot down raising the handles and let the door roll on passed
 
What I dislike most about my hangar is the three button switch control itself. The buttons are not nice smooth flat ones they are oval shaped things with molded in markings that are kinda "sharp" and they have overkill springs behind them requiring a lot more force then necessary to actuate them. My skin grafted finger tips don't like it. So I gotta stab the thing with a stick, screwdriver, socket, etc or or hurt my fingers.

Annnnddd its located above my head when seated in a wheelchair.
 
bnt83 said:
What I dislike most about my hangar is the three button switch control itself. The buttons are not nice smooth flat ones they are oval shaped things with molded in markings that are kinda "sharp" and they have overkill springs behind them requiring a lot more force then necessary to actuate them. My skin grafted finger tips don't like it. So I gotta stab the thing with a stick, screwdriver, socket, etc or or hurt my fingers.

Annnnddd its located above my head when seated in a wheelchair.
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I was surprised that then new hangars we're building have one hangar that has a door on the side with a wheelchair ramp, and the controls are lowered in all of the hangars.
 
Lowflynjack said:
I was surprised that then new hangars we're building have one hangar that has a door on the side with a wheelchair ramp, and the controls are lowered in all of the hangars.
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That is neat. Mine could have a side door, but it doesn't. I wish we had water on the end of each row but oh well.

I'm lucky enough that the wheelchair is for distance and I can walk when unable to use the chair. (Walking too much damages skin grafts on the bottom of my feet so to get around campus, shopping, etc I need wheels)
 
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bnt83 said:
That is neat. Mine could have a side door, but it doesn't. I wish we had water on the end of each row but oh well.

I'm lucky enough that the wheelchair is for distance and I can walk when unable to use the chair. (Walking too much damages skin grafts on the bottom of my feet so to get around campus, shopping, etc I need wheels)
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I had never heard your story and didn't see the link in your signature. Ordering the book today! Glad to hear that after everything you've gone through, you're still flying.
 
Thats what my leased hangar looks like now. I would never buy one of these upload_2017-9-28_8-23-42.png


The old hangar had something like this and I like it.

upload_2017-9-28_8-24-55.png
 
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