Craftsman tools.

Yea, around my area Lowes is way better. Way more inventory, way more employees. I don't know about the "pro" help as I don't often ask for it.
 
Grum.Man said:
Yea, around my area Lowes is way better. Way more inventory, way more employees. I don't know about the "pro" help as I don't often ask for it.
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Aren't they HQ'd in Statesville, or Charlotte area?
 
The thing I don't understand is that my nearest Lowe's is also the CLOSEST one to the Lowe's corporate headquarters. It's arguably THE WORST instance of the store I've ever had the misfortune to step into. The Troutman store on the other hand is beautiful. When I'm really working on a project I bop up to Hickory we have Tractor Supply, Northern Tools, Harbor Freight, Lowes, and Home Depot all in the same two mile stretch of road. If I can't find it there, I can probably do without it.

Amusingly, Lowe's lists a SuperUnicom that's only 4 miles from my house but I've never heard it or have been able to kerchunk it up on the published frequency.
 
flyingron said:
The thing I don't understand is that my nearest Lowe's is also the CLOSEST one to the Lowe's corporate headquarters. It's arguably THE WORST instance of the store I've ever had the misfortune to step into. The Troutman store on the other hand is beautiful. When I'm really working on a project I bop up to Hickory we have Tractor Supply, Northern Tools, Harbor Freight, Lowes, and Home Depot all in the same two mile stretch of road. If I can't find it there, I can probably do without it.

Amusingly, Lowe's lists a SuperUnicom that's only 4 miles from my house but I've never heard it or have been able to kerchunk it up on the published frequency.
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The Troutman store is pretty amazing! One thing that is strange is how different every Lowes is. Troutman for example has a huge garden section but hardly any fans in the fan section. The best store for Bathroom stuff is the one across the street from North Lake Mall in Charlotte.
 
Shawn said:
But they certainly have their place. In my company we use diagonal side cutting pliers on a daily basis and keep them in all our tool bags and work boxes which is like 15 separate locations that they are on the pack list. I stooped buying "nice" ones and now go with the $3.00 Harbor Fright version for as often as as they get lost, stolen or broken...plus I can whale on them with a hammer for a heaver job when I don't have the "right" tool and not care. If I have to replace them 4 times I am still ahead of the game vs buying high end. Disposable tools...and they work.

Now, my PERSONAL tool kit where no one touches but me...I will plunk down the money for a good set of Klein and take care of them.
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I have a pair of diagonal side cutters, that I got from Mac, about 25 years ago. They are like an extension of my right arm. If you see me they will be there too. I can whale on them with a hammer if I need to, with no worries about damaging them, (and I have on many occaisions).
I got them because I knew that they will stand up to whatever punishment I can dish out. And I don't need to worry about breaking them, and having to leave to go buy another pair, because they won't break that easy.
 
Lots of great tools under the J. H. Williams brand - and they're Snap-Ons, as well.
 
As an aside, I managed to bend a 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar yesterday. Took an extension pipe and my body weight, but bend it did. Lug nuts on our Jeep as I swapped to our snow tire wheels yesterday preparing for the Great Blizzard of '17.

Previously, all I had to do was carry it into any Sears and they'd throw it in a bin and give me a new one. Have to see how that goes now.
 
FastEddieB said:
As an aside, I managed to bend a 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar yesterday. Took an extension pipe and my body weight, but bend it did. Lug nuts on our Jeep as I swapped to our snow tire wheels yesterday preparing for the Great Blizzard of '17.

Previously, all I had to do was carry it into any Sears and they'd throw it in a bin and give me a new one. Have to see how that goes now.
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Might want to pick up a tube of anti-seize while you're there....
 
Chip Sylverne said:
Might want to pick up a tube of anti-seize while you're there....
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In all seriousness, that has to be done with caution.

Most torque settings are based on dry threads, unless otherwise specified. Take a bolt to what "feels right" or to the specified torque on a bolt with antiseize can actually stretch the bolt and lead to failure.

But thanks for the advice!
 
FastEddieB said:
In all seriousness, that has to be done with caution.

Most torque settings are based on dry threads, unless otherwise specified. Take a bolt to what "feels right" or to the specified torque on a bolt with antiseize can actually stretch the bolt and lead to failure.

But thanks for the advice!
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Very true. http://www.alliedsystems.com/pdf/Wagner/Forms/80/80-1057.pdf

It depends on the anti-seize, of course, but this chart shows a 34% reduction in torque from lubricated 1/2-20 threads. If one puts it on the nut cone as well, it could get a lot worse, and from dry threads, the drop is huge. Snap goes the stud...
 
Matthew said:
We have one "living" mall not too far from me, but I don't go there very often.

We have a couple of dead malls that are either being torn down or have been torn down. Here's one that recently made the Youtubes:

http://www.kansascity.com/news/local/article115176928.html



The trend now is to build "outdoor" malls. Full size bars and restaurants surround the inner shops so there is a reason to go there besides ladies clothing stores.
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Wow that video is crazy...spooky too. Yea Phoenix is almost all outdoor malls...I love them.
 
Dan Thomas said:
Very true. http://www.alliedsystems.com/pdf/Wagner/Forms/80/80-1057.pdf

It depends on the anti-seize, of course, but this chart shows a 34% reduction in torque from lubricated 1/2-20 threads. If one puts it on the nut cone as well, it could get a lot worse, and from dry threads, the drop is huge. Snap goes the stud...
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I hate the tire stores that ridiculously overtorque the lug bolts/nuts...I swear I've had some on there at 250 ft-lb when the spec is 110 or so. I use anti-seize and torque to about 100.

Depends on the car, but the egregious over-torquing can potentially distort the brake disc, although snapping a stud is the bigger issue.

Tools-wise, I've got a few Cobalt things (screwdrivers mostly and a 3/8" ratchet), and I'm pretty impressed at the quality for the price. And a Lowe's is right down the street, so there's that.
 
FastEddieB said:
As an aside, I managed to bend a 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar yesterday. Took an extension pipe and my body weight, but bend it did. Lug nuts on our Jeep as I swapped to our snow tire wheels yesterday preparing for the Great Blizzard of '17.
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Jeezus...what are you gonna do when you have a flat in the snow and all that's available to remove the tire is the stock lug wrench?

I think your tire mounting procedure may need to be altered. Most aluminum wheel torque specs are between 100 and 130 lb/ft. I put a small dab of anti-seize on the studs and torque the lugs to 90.
 
I had mounted the wheels prior, and only moderately snug.

The bolts loosened with a creaking sound, leading me to suspect dissimilar metal corrosion between the steel bolt and the aluminum wheel. Maybe just a touch of anti-seize on the conical shoulder might be a thought.

As an aside, once I could just not get a wheel off of our old 1993 Land Cruiser. Boards for leverage and even a sledge hammer on the tire and no joy. YouTube suggested replacing the wheel bolts but leaving them about 1/16" loose. And then drive the car and jerk the steering wheel left and right until you get a "clunk". I did, and it worked.
 
FastEddieB said:
I had mounted the wheels prior, and only moderately snug.

The bolts loosened with a creaking sound, leading me to suspect dissimilar metal corrosion between the steel bolt and the aluminum wheel. Maybe just a touch of anti-seize on the conical shoulder might be a thought.

As an aside, once I could just not get a wheel off of our old 1993 Land Cruiser. Boards for leverage and even a sledge hammer on the tire and no joy. YouTube suggested replacing the wheel bolts but leaving them about 1/16" loose. And then drive the car and jerk the steering wheel left and right until you get a "clunk". I did, and it worked.
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Of course you need the second YouTube video for how to chase down a tire rolling down the street... ;)
 
FastEddieB said:
I had mounted the wheels prior, and only moderately snug.

The bolts loosened with a creaking sound, leading me to suspect dissimilar metal corrosion between the steel bolt and the aluminum wheel. Maybe just a touch of anti-seize on the conical shoulder might be a thought.

As an aside, once I could just not get a wheel off of our old 1993 Land Cruiser. Boards for leverage and even a sledge hammer on the tire and no joy. YouTube suggested replacing the wheel bolts but leaving them about 1/16" loose. And then drive the car and jerk the steering wheel left and right until you get a "clunk". I did, and it worked.
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When I was young (early '60s) I had occasion to change a wheel on my father's '59 Pontiac. I found out the hard way that the car had left hand threads on the left side (broke a stud). Never encountered any other vehicle since then that used that system. However,as a result, I know to look for an "L" on the end of any stud before attempting to remove the nut!

Dave
 
cessna182b said:
When I was young (early '60s) I had occasion to change a wheel on my father's '59 Pontiac. I found out the hard way that the car had left hand threads on the left side (broke a stud). Never encountered any other vehicle since then that used that system. However,as a result, I know to look for an "L" on the end of any stud before attempting to remove the nut!

Dave
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Dave, left hand threads/left side was very common in the 1950s. My parents always drove Chrysler Corp cars and that is what I learned on. Dunno about Ford.

-Skip
 
cessna182b said:
When I was young (early '60s) I had occasion to change a wheel on my father's '59 Pontiac. I found out the hard way that the car had left hand threads on the left side (broke a stud). Never encountered any other vehicle since then that used that system. However,as a result, I know to look for an "L" on the end of any stud before attempting to remove the nut!

Dave
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Ha! Just snapped a stud off my son's '68 Plymouth when I had to show him how to use some muscle to remove the "stuck" lugnuts on a driver's side wheel. Took the broken piece out of the wrench and saw the L stamped in the end of it.

Whoops!
 
I have an employee who is a great fan of Kobalt tools from Lowe's, He just can't stop telling everyone how great they are and he explains that they are made by the same company that makes Snap On tools. So they must be great.
If he said this once or twice it would not be too bad, but he goes on and on. Made by the same company that makes Snap On tools.

After a few months of this I got tired of it. I explained to him that my $10.00 electric toaster was made by the same company that makes the jet engines for the Boeing 777, that is General Electric, and my toaster is a piece of crap. He has not said much since.

Life is a barrel of fun.

Ken
 
Acrodustertoo said:
This is my thought exactly. There is no place for a man to go at a mall anymore. I don't need skinny jeans or junk jewelry. I am tired of sitting on the bench holding my wife's purse so I just don't go to those places.
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But about cell phone cases!
 
This pair of pliers is my best tool. It belonged to my Grandfather, who was a great influence in my life. I think it was probably purchased in the 1920s.

It's hard to describe but it just fits my hand perfectly, it has real heft and perfect balance. I love it.

And to be honest, whenever I pick it up I feel a direct connect to Grandad. Silly I guess, but there it is.

My son isn't much into tools, but his son is.

I plan to leave these to the Grandson when I'm sent to the recycling center in the sky.

7pQUHue.jpg
 
JimNtexas said:
This pair of pliers is my best tool. It belonged to my Grandfather, who was a great influence in my life. I think it was probably purchased in the 1920s.

It's hard to describe but it just fits my hand perfectly, it has real heft and perfect balance. I love it.

And to be honest, whenever I pick it up I feel a direct connect to Grandad. Silly I guess, but there it is.

My son isn't much into tools, but his son is.

I plan to leave these to the Grandson when I'm sent to the recycling center in the sky.

7pQUHue.jpg
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I have a pair of those = lineman pliers, and they are very old
 
ElPaso Pilot said:
Ha! Just snapped a stud off my son's '68 Plymouth when I had to show him how to use some muscle to remove the "stuck" lugnuts on a driver's side wheel. Took the broken piece out of the wrench and saw the L stamped in the end of it.

Whoops!
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Are you guys sure about it being the driver's side? All of the Chrysler products had LH threads on the passenger, or right side of the vehicle.
 
I don't know what they use to attach the wheels to the EZGO golf cars at the Textron factory but they were a ***** to remove even with an impact driver.
 
3393RP said:
Are you guys sure about it being the driver's side? All of the Chrysler products had LH threads on the passenger, or right side of the vehicle.
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No, it's "left hand threads on the left hand side". My father's '66 Dodge was like that, as were pre '65 Buicks/Olds/Pontiacs. Supposedly this prevents the wheels from falling off if you forget to tighten the nuts. Google "left hand lug nuts" to read more.
 
flyingbrit said:
No, it's "left haYou’ve probably seen knock-off wheels on Jaguar E-Types from the Sixties as well as certain 1963-1966 Corvettes. The functional benefit is that you can remove and replace wheels and tires very quickly in pit-stop situations during a road race or other timed competition event. By contrast, fiddling with a handful of lug nuts would add precious seconds to the pit stop – don’t tell that to NASCAR.nd threads on the left hand side". My father's '66 Dodge was like that, as were pre '65 Buicks/Olds/Pontiacs. Supposedly this prevents the wheels from falling off if you forget to tighten the nuts. Google "left hand lug nuts" to read more.
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Huh. I was wrong about the Chrysler products.

The large single wheel nut on IndyCars is left handed on the right side of the car. Same thing with a Bonneville streamliner I crewed on. If the car is going forward, it supposedly imparts a tightening force on the nut. I think that's pretty common on single nut wheels used in other forms of racing. I know about the IndyCars because I used to crew on them.

This excerpt from a MoPar oriented website discusses single lug wheels, they are configured with LH on the right side of the vehicle.

You’ve probably seen knock-off wheels on Jaguar E-Types from the Sixties as well as certain 1963-1966 Corvettes. The functional benefit is that you can remove and replace wheels and tires very quickly in pit-stop situations during a road race or other timed competition event. By contrast, fiddling with a handful of lug nuts would add precious seconds to the pit stop – don’t tell that to NASCAR.

But you will also see that the spinners on these cars use strategically positioned left-hand and right-hand threads. Generally, the driver-side hubs and spinners are threaded so clockwise rotation of the spinner tightens the wheel to the hub. The passenger-side fasteners employ left-hand threads that are turned counter-clockwise to achieve tightening. With the threaded wheel fasteners oriented this way, there is a natural tightening effect imparted to the spinners as the car travels forward over the road. But keep in mind that the wheels and spinners are rotating at precisely the same speed at all times – unless a careless mechanic hasn’t tightened the spinner all the way down.
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3393RP said:
Huh. I was wrong about the Chrysler products.

The large single wheel nut on IndyCars is left handed on the right side of the car. Same thing with a Bonneville streamliner I crewed on. If the car is going forward, it supposedly imparts a tightening force on the nut. I think that's pretty common on single nut wheels used in other forms of racing. I know about the IndyCars because I used to crew on them.

This excerpt from a MoPar oriented website discusses single lug wheels, they are configured with LH on the right side of the vehicle.
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Yup. Old Chrysler lug nuts are defiantly left hand thread on drivers side. Except for this one, which now has RH on all three except the drivers rear.

If Boy ever lets a shop change or rotate his tires without a sticky note stuck on that hubcap with explicit instructions, he will quickly have that issue solved, too.
 
Sears has been going downhill for the last 20 years, and taking the Craftsman line with it. However, I have oodles of Craftsman tools! Conversely, HFT has been steadily improving for at least the last decade, and I would put many of their pro series polished lifetime-warranty handtools on par with much of my Craftsman stock.

My favorite thing about Craftsman is that after loosing my 3/8" Craftsman socket down a drain, or through a crack in the driveway (or wherever those damn things end up under the truck) I could go down to Sears (normally a special trip) and buy just that ONE socket to make the set whole again!

Oh well, those days might stay with Stanley. I have a set of Stanley branded avionics tools that I can just go and buy replacement parts online for. But a small pair of wire cutters is also $20...

(*crying inside*)
-Dana
 
cheap tools are good,, I spend half my time looking for the expensive ones, cheap ones I just buy another. you know when the owner finds them in their aircraft they are going to keep them. better the cheap ones than the snap on ones.
 
3393RP said:
Huh. I was wrong about the Chrysler products.

The large single wheel nut on IndyCars is left handed on the right side of the car. Same thing with a Bonneville streamliner I crewed on. If the car is going forward, it supposedly imparts a tightening force on the nut. I think that's pretty common on single nut wheels used in other forms of racing. I know about the IndyCars because I used to crew on them.

This excerpt from a MoPar oriented website discusses single lug wheels, they are configured with LH on the right side of the vehicle.
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It's called a centerlock lol
 
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