Tom is also the one who claimed "jellied acetone" was an industry term for paint stripper- turned out he was the entire industry.
Corrosion & treatment.
- Thread starter Tom-D
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No it isn't. In the other thread you keep saying that the 150 MM is the only thing you need to consult. My clips clearly show that the MM SUPPLEMENTS other sources of data, such as AC43.13. The MM and AC43.13 need to used together in order to make a good decision.
Stewartb
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Geez, if the topic was peanut butter and the question was crunchy or smooth you guys would find a way to turn it into a ****ing match!
Checkout_my_Six
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Tom is a pretty creative fella....
Zeldman
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Smooth, all the way!
Smooth with honey added.....
zodiacflyguy
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Not only that, but there is a bit more in there than just acetone. Of the ingredients in there the acetone is just about the most mild.
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Tom-D
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Remember the 100 manual only started in 68. prior to that they had no manuals for the 100 series.
so read the front page of the 100 manual, and the purpose paragraph of the 43-13 1b.
For the rest of you, when you get your IA you get this guidance by your ASI./ PMI.
Yep, it never quits with some. gotta increase the post count. no matter if the post adds anything to the thread
Tom-D
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Exactly, making it easier to remove later, it will actually make the corrosion deposit softer (for lac of a better word) then the alum-prep works better. That's if you have a few days to allow it to set.
If you think so. WD-40 is, as you yourself noted, a light hydrocarbon which doesn't dissolve metal oxides (that is what corrosion is). You could do as well or better with water. The WD-40 is good for dissolving grease or oil and making that stuff easier to remove.
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GlennAB1
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True. It doesn't take much to soften aluminum oxide. It is very porous and crumbles easily.
Tom-D
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We used our heads and did what we were taught in A&P school.
It is a 76.
I haven't seen your picture of your manual yet?
For others, Cessna's 100 service manual is the day to day routine maintenance manual for the 100 line. in chapter 19 (structural Repair) where it gives the Criteria for repairing the structures of the sections of the aircraft. Para-17 describes the Criteria for Negligible damage. and para 18 describes the criteria for repairable damage.
As I have said, these are the minimum standards, If I wish to replace section of skin, that has negligible damage, or a corroded baggage compartment floor I can do that. just as was quoted in the attachment above.
If I wish to repair any portion of my 150 that meets the requirements of FAR 43-A as a major repair, then I must gain authority from my PMI on a 337 form, and record that in the Maintenance records of the aircraft in the manor required by FAR 43.
Block 8 describes what I want to do for the repair, and I can use the data contained in the Cessna structural manual as data to be approved by the FAA's ASI/ my PMI. When they approve it they sign block 4, then this data in block 8 becomes approved data for the repair.
and yes I have a subscription to up date my old paper version 100 manual.
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He posted it in another thread some hours ago.
Tom-D
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I have tried water, I have tried soap and water, I'v tried acid and water, In the past 50 years I've tried most any thing that some said might work.
And found that WD40 is about as good as it gets when you have the time.
When I first got the 150 home I applied 2 cans of WD40 to the interior, now when I clean any area, 99% of the corrosion products come off in the first application of Alu-prep. price Aluminum-prep, it is expensive, WD40 not so much. all of the pictures I've posted were treated this way, nearly all the minor surface corrosion comes clean the first time with out working the brushes on it.
Try it you might like it, it sure as hell doesn't hurt anything.
When you think about it, most of our aircraft the interiors are oily. and the corrosion deposits are saturated with it.
water not so effective on oily stuff.
Tom-D
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Tom-D
no about 15 minutes ago,
Tom-D
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I'm surprised you haven't blamed me for using it as stripper.What is the peanut butter being used for?
Hopefully, a long time. Months maybe. I don't think the mods need to do anything
Uh, yeah. That's what I said. WD-40 is good at dissolving grease. As a hydrocarbon, it does nothing to dissolve metal oxides.
It seems you haven't noticed I get in your threads when you post things clearly wrong ("zink", "ammonia is acidic", etc)
Checkout_my_Six
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Stewartb
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I like a quote I heard Neil Degrass Tyson say. We're entitled to our own opinions but not to our own facts. Take it for what it's worth.
Tom-D
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That is what you would like.Hopefully, a long time. Months maybe. I don't think the mods need to do anything
Who said it dissolved any thing, read what I actually said
Tom-D
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Yeah well ? and you haven't ?Ummm.....I see you've added quite a bit to the back and forth.
Tom-D
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Then why would you use abrasives to grind it out? It is always better to leave as much protection as possible to continue to protect
Tom- Read what I wrote- I said it dissolved the grease and oil, and not the corrosion. As you mentioned that there was a lot of oil in the interior of the planes I feel you basically agreed with the mechanism of action, otherwise there was no point in your mentioning it. A hydrocarbon doesn't dissolve metal oxides.
Let's face it- you really don't add much to the group, and contribute mostly acrimony.
Do you really think it is respectful to members and veterans of the Air Force when you continually call their service branch "air farce"? How would you like it if someone disrespected the Navy?
You also make up your own "facts" such as "jellied acetone", or this set from last night (the time stamps indicate that you were creating your own "facts") :
You demand respect, but you refuse to give it- when you say ammonia is acidic, you'll tell a chemist they don't know what they are talking about, yet you get very upset when someone says you don't know what you are talking about.
And now, somehow, you are the victim. You don't seem to understand your own behavior causes people to react negatively towards you.
Tom- if you want respect, you need to start giving it. I know you don't like me, but that doesn't mean my advice is bad. Stop with the insults. Stop making stuff up.
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Drake the Outlaw
I thought you left about 2 or 3 weeks ago.
Or maybe this is the online version of Groundhog Day.
Well said.
I am sure he has a wealth of knowledge, but the manner in which he chooses to share it is not helpful or educating.
To everyone, Happy Easter!
GlennAB1
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Because if you don't, you leave stress risers, that are evident in your pictures. Why does 43.13 require polishing after using a stainless steel brush to remove corrosion.
Happy Easter! Happy fishing!
3393RP
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The Zolatone looks really nice. I wouldn't have thought about using it in an aircraft, but it was a pretty good idea.
A few years ago we painted several walls in our house with it. The paint looks good, it's durable, and easy to clean.
Timbeck2
Final Approach
Cliff's note to this thread:
Q: Here are pictures of the aft baggage compartment floor. it is .025" 2024-T3 it is considered structure. How would you treat/repair it?
A: The corrosion is too deep, you must replace it.
Lesson learned: If something on your aircraft looks like this and is structural, it must be replaced.
Class dismissed
Q: Here are pictures of the aft baggage compartment floor. it is .025" 2024-T3 it is considered structure. How would you treat/repair it?
A: The corrosion is too deep, you must replace it.
Lesson learned: If something on your aircraft looks like this and is structural, it must be replaced.
Class dismissed
Checkout_my_Six
Touchdown! Greaser!
well....that was easy. 
Timbeck2
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I'm a river to my people. 