Check Engine light

Tom-D

Tom-D

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Tom-D
2007 Jeep Wrangler 3.8l-V6 coming out of Seattle in heavy stop and go traffic I get a light. I stopped checked all fluids under the hood, nothing seemed wrong, not over heated, oil full on the dip stick. So, I drove it home and it seemed to run fine.
today I pull the codes PO-430, is the catalytic converters under the manufacturers recommended efficiency code.
I reset the light and drove the jeep around doing errands and the light stays out.
Question is: would you change the converters now (1200 bucks) or wait until the light keeps coming on and won't stay out
 
Tom-D said:
would you change the converters now (1200 bucks)
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Not for $1200..... When there are aftermarket versions available that can be installed for 30-40% of that number.

Go see one of the independent muffler/exhaust shops (avoid the chains like Meineke and Midas and others).

But for now, keep driving until you get the repeated fault.
 
I'd keep driving until I couldn't pass my required state emissions test and wouldn't worry about the light.
 
How many miles? No exhaust leaks? Chances are the O2 sensor downstream of the cat is sending the signal. Could be the cat, could be the sensor, could be a dirty connector.
 
Jim_R said:
I'd keep driving until I couldn't pass my required state emissions test and wouldn't worry about the light.
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No tests required here.
 
Then I'd keep driving and wouldn't worry about the light.
 
AggieMike88 said:
Not for $1200..... When there are aftermarket versions available that can be installed for 30-40% of that number.

Go see one of the independent muffler/exhaust shops (avoid the chains like Meineke and Midas and others).

But for now, keep driving until you get the repeated fault.
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Cheapest I can find is change less than $900 the shops want to install what they sell = $14-$1600
 
Jim_R said:
Then I'd keep driving and wouldn't worry about the light.
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Resetting the light is easy. I always want to know the code that triggered the light. prior to the reset.
 
I also have some sort of vague recollection of a TSB for that year for a PCM reflash regarding the emission system. Might check your VIN to see if there's anything outstanding.

My jeep predates yours, but there was a "service" light hat came on when you reached certain mileage points. Really nothing more than a device to get you into the service dept. Went away with the push of a button, no repercussions. Not saying it's the case, but ...I'd drive it and see what happens
 
Tom-D said:
Cheapest I can find is change less than $900 the shops want to install what they sell = $14-$1600
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Keep digging... and when you call, ask specifically for an aftermarket solution.
 
Every shop I talked to say they must order the part, which is a big "Y" pipe with the converters welded in. delivery 4-6 working days out of Portland. by truck.

NAPA by the way was the cheapest. $889.00
Think I'll get one on hand and wait, hoping Murphy's law kicks in " when you have a spare you'll never need it"
 
Tom-D said:
2007 Jeep Wrangler 3.8l-V6 coming out of Seattle in heavy stop and go traffic I get a light. I stopped checked all fluids under the hood, nothing seemed wrong, not over heated, oil full on the dip stick. So, I drove it home and it seemed to run fine.
today I pull the codes PO-430, is the catalytic converters under the manufacturers recommended efficiency code.
I reset the light and drove the jeep around doing errands and the light stays out.
Question is: would you change the converters now (1200 bucks) or wait until the light keeps coming on and won't stay out
Click to expand...

I'm sure prices have gone up a bit since then, but in 2012, I had a local shop replace the catalytic converter in our 1998 wrangler:

$145 for parts (a CA compliant Magnaflow)
$109 for labor
$ 11 tax
====
$265

And this was in California.
 
register@teamandras.com said:
I'm sure prices have gone up a bit since then, but in 2012, I had a local shop replace the catalytic converter in our 1998 wrangler:

$145 for parts (a CA compliant Magnaflow)
$109 for labor
$ 11 tax
====
$265

And this was in California.
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those were removable this is one part.
 
Not sure I follow. The OEM cat was only "removable" with a cutting wheel, and then this after-market cat (one part) was welded in.
 
4WD parts has a weld-in replacement Magnaflow $126

Quick Google shows assemblies start around $599. New Level motorsports has a Paceseeter assy for $509. I've had a Pacesetter header on my 4.0 going on ten years, no signs of rust through. Good quality for the price.
 
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Most of the time it means a bad downstream oxygen sensor. You can replace the sensor (much cheaper than a new cat, which you probably don't need anyway unless you're burning oil), or put in an "oxygen sensor simulator" (er, legal for "off road use only", wink wink nudge nudge).
 
Tom-D said:
2007 Jeep Wrangler 3.8l-V6 coming out of Seattle in heavy stop and go traffic I get a light. I stopped checked all fluids under the hood, nothing seemed wrong, not over heated, oil full on the dip stick. So, I drove it home and it seemed to run fine.
today I pull the codes PO-430, is the catalytic converters under the manufacturers recommended efficiency code.
I reset the light and drove the jeep around doing errands and the light stays out.
Question is: would you change the converters now (1200 bucks) or wait until the light keeps coming on and won't stay out
Click to expand...

I'd change it if it comes on and stays on, preventing passing an emissions test (required here).

OR, if you see performance issues (mileage, etc) with the vehicle.

Otherwise, I'd live with an intermittent "Check Engine" light. That light isn't a catastrophic failure light, it just relays that the OBDC has identified an emissions problem.
 
If they need to replace anything else, watch out. On my truck there are 4 Oxy sensors (OBDII vehicles have either 2 or 4 depending on configuration). The rear ones are $231 apiece from the dealer ($80 and $130 depending on side for NTK aftermarket. Bosch has a mixed record for my truck). The front ones are $240-ish apiece from the dealer and $120-ish each aftermarket. If the system has to be reworked and the sensors cannot be reused, it will add $450 (aftermarked) - $1000 (dealer price) to the cost. Plus the cost of the sizing bungs if necessary. Front sensors before the cat converters, rear sensors after.
 
Jim_R said:
Then I'd keep driving and wouldn't worry about the light.
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My thought there is if the light is on already for a knowm fault that you are not worried about, what indication would you have if another trigger event happened? The light is already on for the first fault. How do you know the second fault exists?
 
SkyDog58 said:
My thought there is if the light is on already for a knowm fault that you are not worried about, what indication would you have if another trigger event happened? The light is already on for the first fault. How do you know the second fault exists?
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the wrangler will give you another bell, and the light will blink.
But they are easy to reset, why run with it on.?
 
The cat efficiency test is one of the least reliable.

If it were my vehicle, I would just reset the light as necessary.
 
Dana said:
Most of the time it means a bad downstream oxygen sensor. You can replace the sensor (much cheaper than a new cat, which you probably don't need anyway unless you're burning oil), or put in an "oxygen sensor simulator" (er, legal for "off road use only", wink wink nudge nudge).
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Yes the jeep burns oil, a qt to 2500 miles
 
Look for a leak or hole in the pipe. OBD cycles the converter to make sure it's there, this was done mostly to thwart those who cut out the converter or put dummies in for the O2 sensors. Also manifold leaks could cause an issue like this. I'll tell you I had an issue with my Hemi Grand Cherokee, a code where the o2 sensors were too slow to respond plus your code occasionally, but mainly the slow to respond code. Mechanic replaced the sensors, no joy. I said to replace the PCV valve, they didn't have one and told me no way that was it. So this went on for about 6 months and about 5 trips. One day I had to get an inspection done, they check them via the OBD here, codes like you have will flunk the car. Anyway I had this inspection coming up. Dealer didn't have the PCV valve, nor did the local auto parts stores, so I found one on Amazon and bought it. Plugged it in and the problem went away. I think the valve wasn't closing properly and was allowing air into the manifold past the flow sensor. Cat converters rarely fail unless the car is running right or the catalyst is damaged and blows out the tail pipe. You can do a temp test to see if the converter is working.
 
My sons car gets this once in awhile and it goes away or I can reset it. As mentioned could be O2 censors. Here we have annual inspections by big brother and you can't have any check engine lights and depending on the age of the vehicle you can have 0-1 sensor that isn't giving a fault but hasn't reset.
 
Most of the time cat efficiency below threshold code actually IS a bad cat converter. Rear O2 problems usually give other codes (slow response is the most common one).
Cheap solution is a lambda spacer for the rear O2.
 
Tom-D said:
Yes the jeep burns oil, a qt to 2500 miles
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That shouldn't be enough to fry the cat.

Note that the rear O2 sensor only monitors the cat for proper operation and lights the CEL if it's not happy; it has no effect on how the engine runs.
 
Tom-D said:
2007 Jeep Wrangler 3.8l-V6 coming out of Seattle in heavy stop and go traffic I get a light. I stopped checked all fluids under the hood, nothing seemed wrong, not over heated, oil full on the dip stick. So, I drove it home and it seemed to run fine.
today I pull the codes PO-430, is the catalytic converters under the manufacturers recommended efficiency code.
I reset the light and drove the jeep around doing errands and the light stays out.
Question is: would you change the converters now (1200 bucks) or wait until the light keeps coming on and won't stay out
Click to expand...

Too bad you don't know a decent mechanic. Working on a Jeep is easier than falling out of a tree. I have three Jeeps, various years. Only thing I go anywhere for is tires. Everything else is done in my garage. They're just nuts, bolts, and disposable electronics. Older Jeeps are just nuts and bolts. :)
 
Lachlan said:
Too bad you don't know a decent mechanic. Working on a Jeep is easier than falling out of a tree. I have three Jeeps, various years. Only thing I go anywhere for is tires. Everything else is done in my garage. They're just nuts, bolts, and disposable electronics. Older Jeeps are just nuts and bolts. :)
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who do you believe is going to replace the exhaust? who reset the light?
 
Tom-D said:
who do you believe is going to replace the exhaust? who reset the light?
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Post #1... you say "$1200" and I immediately think to myself, "Self, that ain't the post of a man who is going to do the work himself if he's calling shops for estimates." So there. Now, if you had posted asking for the best place to buy aftermarket cats then I would think you a competent Jeepsman.
 
Lachlan said:
Post #1... you say "$1200" and I immediately think to myself, "Self, that ain't the post of a man who is going to do the work himself if he's calling shops for estimates." So there. Now, if you had posted asking for the best place to buy aftermarket cats then I would think you a competent Jeepsman.
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Nope, that was the cost of parts for a new "Y" pipe, they vary from about $880-$1600 some even have a core charge.
 
mtuomi said:
The light can be reset with a generic OBD reader, they cost 10 dollars or so.
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easier to simply disconnect the battery and yes I have a reader that's why I knew the code 430 was the cat/converter.
 
Oh,forgot to mention, google "MIL eliminator". Simple RC circuit inserted inline with the rear sensor.
 
ElPaso Pilot said:
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2000, 2002 and 2015...all three fixed per the above method. No state inspections. The latest one due to a tire pressure sensor that the dealer broke off and would not admit to it. Just left it in there for me to find 6000 mi later while doing an oil change. Not paying $200 when I can throw a $5 rubber valve stem in.
 
Tom-D said:
easier to simply disconnect the battery and yes I have a reader that's why I knew the code 430 was the cat/converter.
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Battery disconnect won't reset any MILs on most modern cars. Not sure about a Jeep though.
 
mtuomi said:
Battery disconnect won't reset any MILs on most modern cars. Not sure about a Jeep though.
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Connect the reader to the jeep's multi pin connector, turn the key on press the read button. read code. turn key off, dis connect the battery positive. reconnect, light does not come back on, when the engine is started.
 
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