Buying a road bike (cycle) and doing a century

[woodstock]

Hi

I imagine we have riders here. I am considering doing a century this fall (6 months from now). Might be a metric one. Regardless, this will be motivation to get into shape. I used to ride "a lot", but it's been at least 4 years now. "A lot" = 30 miles a week minimum.

The Seagull Century is what I am eying. They have a metric option.

I currently have a mountain bike but cannot do a century on that. Road bike. Thoughts?

 

[ScottM]

Road bikes yes. The biggest issue with roadbikes is fit. You have to get one that you are comfortable on and it fits. Most bikes shops no crap about fitting a bike let alone anything about road bikes. Find a good job and a good knowledgeable salesman. They should be more than willing to swap out lots of the components to get you that fit. Seat posts, seats, stems etc. Geometries of the bikes really do come into play. I have never been a fan of compact geometries, I like the more relaxed Lemond style of bikes. That is where the seat tube is pushed a little bit further back. That may not work well for you. Girls tend to have shorter torsos and the Lemond style can cause some problems. Check out not only bikes like Felt and Orbea but also some of the woman specific frames the Trek woman specific and Terry.

Also do not ever settle for a bike right out of stock. you are almost always being sold something they are just trying to move. Once they fit you if they have the idea frame size then buy it, but they may have to order. If something does not feel right from the floor, make them order the right thing.

Also do not go in for the coolest uber material bike. For long road rides like what us non-pros do, steel does work very well. So bikes like Waterford are really great. I have an older Lemond all-steel road bike. Steel is a great ride on the road. The difference in weight between my bike and a cool carbon fiber one is like 4 pounds. For me that is like not eating breakfast so not the biggest priority.

Carbon is really lite and cool, also a good ride. But if it chips the frame is to be sold, it is not repairable. Al is lighter than steel but a harsher ride. Ti is the stiffness of AL with the ride of steel. But the cost is high. All of this stuff will cost you. A decent road bike starts at the $1000 range.

 

[tonycondon]

100 meters?

 

[EdFred]

I like my Specialized Sequoia. Plan to ride more this year.

 

[woodstock]

So far, I looked (not rode) a Trek Lexa SLX-T. It's a woman's bike. 1300 bucks to start. Aluminum frame, carbon fiber fork.

I have never used clips before. I have stirrups on the mt bike.

The bike shop near work carries Trek and Felt only.

Tony, haha.

 

[ScottM]

So far, I looked (not rode) a Trek Lexa SLX-T. It's a woman's bike. 1300 bucks to start. Aluminum frame, carbon fiber fork.

I have never used clips before. I have stirrups on the mt bike.

The bike shop near work carries Trek and Felt only.

Tony, haha.

I like carbon folks and have them on both of my road bikes. Clipless is the way to go. On my higher end bike I use Speedplay and on my cross I use the Shimano SPDs.

Some terminology lessons:

Those cages that have been used for years that you slip your feet in are called toe-clips.

The cleats that you have on your shoes and then snap into the peddles are what are called clipless-peddles.

I like the Shimano SPDs because you can unclip and walk normally with cycling shoes. The Speedplays do not let you do that easily but they hold one better to the peddle and are really comfortable on long rides. The big advantage is that I can clip to either side of the peddle. Some clipless peddles can only be gotten into from one side and that can be a PITA

 

[woodstock]

I like carbon folks and have them on both of my road bikes. Clipless is the way to go. On my higher end bike I use Speedplay and on my cross I use the Shimano SPDs.

Some terminology lessons:

Those cages that have been used for years that you slip your feet in are called toe-clips.

The cleats that you have on your shoes and then snap into the peddles are what are called clipless-peddles.

I like the Shimano SPDs because you can unclip and walk normally with cycling shoes. The Speedplays do not let you do that easily but they hold one better to the peddle and are really comfortable on long rides. The big advantage is that I can clip to either side of the peddle. Some clipless peddles can only be gotten into from one side and that can be a PITA

The easiest and safest way to get out in a hurry is what I want. I do NOT want to fall over.

Terminology - confusing.

 

[ScottM]

As for riding a century. I have never done a 100 miles. but I have done several metric centurys and a couple of bike trips that were up to 80 miles in length. You should start by getting up and riding everyday that you can. Start building up so that a 40 mile ride is nothing. Learn how to fuel because there is something magic that happens to your body after 40 to 50 miles. All of the stored sugar you can get to is gone. If it is not coming into your body your muscles cannot use it.

 

[vontresc]

Scott is pretty much spot on on his advice. I currently ride a steel Gunnar Roadie (Gunnar is the "economy" line of Waterford) with a carbon fork. Materials wise modern steel framesets are pretty light and will have the most comfortable ride for the dollar. Again find yourself a good bike shop and get fitted well for your bike. Also inquire if they will let you test various seats. The shop I bought the gunnar at let me try a couple of different options (turns out I liked the first one after all), but a comfortable seat is really important on a road bike.

 

[ScottM]

The easiest and safest way to get out in a hurry is what I want. I do NOT want to fall over.

Terminology - confusing.

Falling over usually happens once for everyone. All peddles are pretty easy to get out of. But for most rec riders the Shimano SPDs work really well and are a great choice. Lots of shoes, peddle cost is reasonable, easy in, etc.

 

[woodstock]

Back in the day, on wkds, I'd go riding with friends. We would do 50 miles no sweat. 25 miles, stop for lunch, wander around the little town, back on bike and home. Easy peasy.

I want to get there again - at least.

 

[ScottM]

Scott is pretty much spot on on his advice. I currently ride a steel Gunnar Roadie (Gunnar is the "economy" line of Waterford) with a carbon fork. Materials wise modern steel framesets are pretty light and will have the most comfortable ride for the dollar. Again find yourself a good bike shop and get fitted well for your bike. Also inquire if they will let you test various seats. The shop I bought the gunnar at let me try a couple of different options (turns out I liked the first one after all), but a comfortable seat is really important on a road bike.

Right you are Pete. When I found the seat that I really like I ended up buying four of them in case they stop getting made I would still have replacements. But before then I went through several seats. You can get an idea after a test ride as to comfort, but after 25 to 50 miles each day for a couple of days your butt and other parts may have a different story to tell.

Elzabeth there are gender specific saddles, make sure you are looking at the right ones and I highly recommend the ones with the cut out in them. I only know of one woman who does not like them and she is using a male Brooks leather saddle. We joke and call her a hard ass, but she rides centuries each weekend without thinking about it.

 

[CJones]

As Scott already mentioned, a good shop can make a HUGE difference, even if they are selling the same base model bike. Find a shop that has the ability and willingness to do maintenance and support AFTER the sale. The shop that my wife works at isn't the cheapest price in town, but they have a couple of great mechanics that will go above-and-beyond after the sale to make sure you get the fit and components that you need.

 

[vontresc]

Falling over usually happens once for everyone. All peddles are pretty easy to get out of. But for most rec riders the Shimano SPDs work really well and are a great choice. Lots of shoes, peddle cost is reasonable, easy in, etc.

Peddles???? Are you trying to sell something, Scott?!?!?

Or do you mean Pedals

Sheesh next thing you know you'll be pulling your plain[sic] out of your hanger[sic]...

 

[woodstock]

Thanks everyone.

Given that I know nothing, what is the best way to find out if a certain store "knows what they are doing"? I know I need to get fitted, but what are some clues for me?

 

[ScottM]

Peddles???? Are you trying to sell something, Scott?!?!?

Or do you mean Pedals

Sheesh next thing you know you'll be pulling your plain[sic] out of your hanger[sic]...

Well wear else would one put there plain?

 

[vontresc]

Thanks everyone.

Given that I know nothing, what is the best way to find out if a certain store "knows what they are doing"? I know I need to get fitted, but what are some clues for me?

Well I like a place here in Madison on State Street. It exemplifies what a good bike shop should be (at least to me). They carry a bunch of brands, have bikes and parts crammed in tight, and most of all have knowlegable (though sometimes surly) staff.

Just go and visit the local shops, and test ride as many bikes as you need to find something that fits you.

 

[Dgrif]

I have ridden steel frames over 10k miles and now have 5k+ on a Dean titanium. Ti is more comfortable and lighter. It isn't as expensive as it once was. With a carbon fiber fork and wheels, and shimano dura ace components my bike weighs only 18.75 lbs. A 4lb increase in wt on a road bike is significant and you will feel a difference in your performance. Hope you find what's best for you. Be safe.

 

[Dave Siciliano]

I was riding about 150 miles a week until I fell last Labor Day. Was thinking about a 100 mile ride, but fell pretty hard and didn't want to test it when the 100 miler was scheduled. I bought a Specialized Roubax 4th of July 2009 and have over 4,000 miles on it now. Don't ride in winter; do other stuff.
There are a couple great books on how to train for a 100 mile ride. They stress different types of workouts and rest. A lot of folks push too hard and don't let they're body recover for long rides. Hills are a different type training as are sprints.
I certainly agree, the seat is where the human interface with machine is VERY important!. I don't know how many I tried and it seems to be a main reason folks quit. The Roubax is all carbon; I'd have to check the price, but I'd really suggest you go where they have more options than it sounds like the store you mentioned. I got mine fit and as has been said, they changed a lot. For rides of 40 miles or less, I just brought water and maybe a banana. For longer rides, folks get into all sorts of meal/energy release strategies.

Hope you enjoy it Beth. If you can do 40 to 50 mile rides and get where they're readily doable, everyone tells me 100 isn't a problem conditioning wise.

They have the Hotter Than Hell 100 here and that's what I was training for. But when it came, I needed a hotel room and it was going to be packed. So, I just went for local rides and skipped the big crowds.

Best,

Dave

 

[wabower]

Get a Toureasy recumbent.

Seat comfort can't be beat.

Ride in normal seated posture rather than hunkered over like a monkey humping a football.

No problem with falling over, both feet can reach the ground and stabilize immediately.

Absolultely no risk of butt-over-teakettle upset.

Riding a century is a non-event.

No wedgie.

 

[ScottM]

Get a Toureasy recumbent.

Seat comfort can't be beat.

Ride in normal seated posture rather than hunkered over like a monkey humping a football.

No problem with falling over, both feet can reach the ground and stabilize immediately.

Absolultely no risk of butt-over-teakettle upset.

Riding a century is a non-event.

No wedgie.

I have a BikeE that I like to ride around on short trips for fun. A good friend who is an animal bike tourist switched to recumbents about 10 years ago for his trips and love him. If you are a recumbent rider you might enjoy his blog: http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/w9ae

 

[Speed]

Thanks everyone.

Given that I know nothing, what is the best way to find out if a certain store "knows what they are doing"? I know I need to get fitted, but what are some clues for me?

Check out forums.teamestrogen.com. There's some good info and good people there.

 

[wabower]

Wow. Great stuff, but waaaay out of my league.

I have a BikeE that I like to ride around on short trips for fun. A good friend who is an animal bike tourist switched to recumbents about 10 years ago for his trips and love him. If you are a recumbent rider you might enjoy his blog: http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/w9ae

 

[ScottM]

Wow. Great stuff, but waaaay out of my league.

Wayne is like that. Years ago, just before he and I started working together, he had returned from a couple of rides. His warm up was to ride from Jacksonville, FL to Tallahassee via Key West. He was living in Dallas at the time and upon his return he started to get ready for the next stage. He loaded up the bike and gear and headed off to San Francisco, CA. From there he road north and met up with some people in Seattle, WA. He turned right and rode to Bar Harbor, ME. Then he left those people, turned right again and rode home to Dallas, TX. Took him 6 months to do. His bike was a steel Trek 520 and he did it all self supported and no sags. He's retired now and live in OR. And as you saw he switched to recumbents. The BikeE I have used to be his and was his commute to work bike.

 

[wabower]

I've made most of those trips in airplanes. Don't think I'd trade with him.

Wayne is like that. Years ago, just before he and I started working together, he had returned from a couple of rides. His warm up was to ride from Jacksonville, FL to Tallahassee via Key West. He was living in Dallas at the time and upon his return he started to get ready for the next stage. He loaded up the bike and gear and headed off to San Francisco, CA. From there he road north and met up with some people in Seattle, WA. He turned right and rode to Bar Harbor, ME. Then he left those people, turned right again and rode home to Dallas, TX. Took him 6 months to do. His bike was a steel Trek 520 and he did it all self supported and no sags. He's retired now and live in OR. And as you saw he switched to recumbents. The BikeE I have used to be his and was his commute to work bike.

 

[Henning]

Few years ago I did a ride in Australia on a bike my buddy lent me, it was a Lemond, it was very light and nice riding. I had no idea what the damn thing cost till I saw one in a store a year later... I called him up and asked him if he was insane handing me that bike...

 

[ScottM]

Few years ago I did a ride in Australia on a bike my buddy lent me, it was a Lemond, it was very light and nice riding. I had no idea what the damn thing cost till I saw one in a store a year later... I called him up and asked him if he was insane handing me that bike...

The Lemond's are nice. I have two, they are steel or steel/carbon hybrids. His relaxed geometry is very comfortable for me. You can't get them anymore or at least the last time I checked because Greg Lemond had a falling out with Trek who made the bikes. The other draw back is they have his name emblazoned all over the damn things and he is such a pysco that I really do not associating myself with his name.

 

[Anthony]

I have a Cannondale that I bought many years ago and still ride. Its aluminum. And yes I agree with Dean. Four pounds is significant on a road bike. Lighter = more expensive too, especially when you get to a certain point. Get the best components you can as they really make a difference. Shimano Dura Ace are really, really smooth as are the higher end Campy's.

You'll be doing those Metric Centuries (62 miles) in no time.

 

[snowbird]

My experience has been that if you can do a metric century you can do a century. It is just a matter of keeping fueled and hydrated. Drink every 15 minutes even if you don't feel thirsty. Keep eating small snacks throughout the ride. Don't make long stops, just keep moving at a steady pace and you will finish in good shape.

 

[woodstock]

Update:

The last few weekends have either been rainy, or, I've had a number of errands with no time in between to test out bikes.

This morning I had time to test two of them.

Trek Lexa SLX (aluminum frame with carbon fiber fork)
Trek Madone 4.5 WSD (carbon fiber frame)

To be honest, in the short time I rode I couldn't tell a massive difference between the two, however, I did decide that I'm going to go with the carbon fiber.

Tomorrow afternoon (assuming good weather) I am going to do a long test ride on the Trek Madone above, and, the Specialized counterpart. Now that I know I'm going carbon I will do a lengthier ride on both and see which one suits me better.

It felt sooooooo good to be back on a bike again though.

ps. from what I can tell from the Trek site, the two above are pretty darn similar but for the frame metal. Same wheels/tires, components, etc.

 

[woodstock]

And now, to think of a name. Also to find good clipless pedals and shoes.

http://cyclingmagazine.ca/2010/11/sections/gear-reviews/bikesframes/review-specialized-ruby-elite/

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=52881&eid=6064&menuItemId=14881

White with Turquoise. Brought her home yesterday.

I hear that when you plan something big you are supposed to tell everyone so that you are shamed into the follow through. So, here is the announcement. Century training to start soon! A century ride, not a race. IE I just want to finish I don't care how slow I am.

 

[flyersfan31]

I'm late to the game, but here are some observations/suggestions:

1) You know a good bike shop when you walk in. Might not be the snazziest, but the real bike shops don't sell what they need to push. They sell what will work for you. They love to talk bikes. Just get them talking, push them for info, if they can't get past "well this is our best bike because" I'd move on. Ask them what they think about components for your level of cycling. If they say, "Dura Ace" without asking about your price points and objectives, walk on. If they don't know what Dura Ace is, or why it's so good, walk on.

2) I second Felt! I've had two. Relaxed-fit bikes with good racing street cred. He is into the bikes more than the markups, so you get a screamin' good deal at whatever level of bike you choose. I don't think I've replaced any stock Felt components -- I find their quality is very good. Nobody, except the in crowd, has heard of Felt. It ain't some generic brand, I can assure you. Moreover, the combo of relaxed geometry and race-level components works great. That being said, the Madone is a nice choice, although Trek has kinda stretched the name to cover a big range, past the original "Bike that Lance rides." Some Madones are more equal than others.

3) I started with Shimano SPD, and liked them, but once I tried Speedplay I've never looked back. Better feel, better comfort (it's really nice to have the extended play (pivot angle) of the Speedplay. I went with the X-5, and am really pleased, even though it's not the Cadillac of the line. IMHO, a big improvement over SPD. But as Scott mentioned, you don't want to walk around on them, so by all means buy the covers for them.

4) Get a bike computer that has a cadence sensor and heartrate sensor. You can separate the two, but it's great to have all that info in front of you. If you don't know your heartrate, you have no idea how hard you're working (and it's probably too hard on hills).

5) A century is a long looooooong ride. Your azz will be sore. Make sure you use chamois cream before the ride (hint, it goes on the chamois, not on you).

6) Enjoy -- cycling is great fun.

 

[ScottM]

5) A century is a long looooooong ride. Your azz will be sore. Make sure you use chamois cream before the ride (hint, it goes on the chamois, not on you).

I 2nd chamois cream. It keeps things moving. And yes, put it on the chamois not on you.

If the Lemond ever goes TU, Felt will be the replacement exactly for that relaxed geometry. The Lemond has it and it is oh so sweet. I have an all steel Zurich with lots of upgrades and I also used a Poprad frame to build my commuting bike.

 

[woodstock]

I'm late to the game, but here are some observations/suggestions:

1) You know a good bike shop when you walk in. Might not be the snazziest, but the real bike shops don't sell what they need to push. They sell what will work for you. They love to talk bikes. Just get them talking, push them for info, if they can't get past "well this is our best bike because" I'd move on. Ask them what they think about components for your level of cycling. If they say, "Dura Ace" without asking about your price points and objectives, walk on. If they don't know what Dura Ace is, or why it's so good, walk on.

2) I second Felt! I've had two. Relaxed-fit bikes with good racing street cred. He is into the bikes more than the markups, so you get a screamin' good deal at whatever level of bike you choose. I don't think I've replaced any stock Felt components -- I find their quality is very good. Nobody, except the in crowd, has heard of Felt. It ain't some generic brand, I can assure you. Moreover, the combo of relaxed geometry and race-level components works great. That being said, the Madone is a nice choice, although Trek has kinda stretched the name to cover a big range, past the original "Bike that Lance rides." Some Madones are more equal than others.

3) I started with Shimano SPD, and liked them, but once I tried Speedplay I've never looked back. Better feel, better comfort (it's really nice to have the extended play (pivot angle) of the Speedplay. I went with the X-5, and am really pleased, even though it's not the Cadillac of the line. IMHO, a big improvement over SPD. But as Scott mentioned, you don't want to walk around on them, so by all means buy the covers for them.

4) Get a bike computer that has a cadence sensor and heartrate sensor. You can separate the two, but it's great to have all that info in front of you. If you don't know your heartrate, you have no idea how hard you're working (and it's probably too hard on hills).

5) A century is a long looooooong ride. Your azz will be sore. Make sure you use chamois cream before the ride (hint, it goes on the chamois, not on you).

6) Enjoy -- cycling is great fun.

1. What is Dura Ace?

2. NOW you tell me. I didn't even take it out.

3. A coworker showed me the Shimano SPD today. He said that I should get mtb shoes (sidi?) so I can walk in them. Also a double sided pedal.

4. I have a garmin forerunner 405 and a heart rate monitor with that.

5. coworker also told me about chamois cream.

6. will do.

 

[ScottM]

1. What is Dura Ace?

Top of the line Shimano components. For most rec riders Dura Ace is OTT and Ultegra or even 105 will be just fine.

2. NOW you tell me. I didn't even take it out.

For your next bike. Remember there is always a next bike.

3. A coworker showed me the Shimano SPD today. He said that I should get mtb shoes (sidi?) so I can walk in them. Also a double sided pedal.

There are road SPD shoes too, get the ones that fit. But yes, SPDs are fine and the doubled sided pedals make it easy to get in and out of them.

 

[flyersfan31]

Why get mtn shoes if you're a roadie??? They are designed for comfort on the bike. You really don't spend any time walking around - to your car and back, at most.

Dura Ace is the high-end of the Shimano line of components.

The big guns are Shimano, Campagnolo (Campi), and SRAM. Personally, tho' I have SRAM on my tri bike, I'm not a huge fan. I've never ridden Campi. I've ridden Shimano Ultegra (midline) and Dura Ace (high line) and I can tell the difference, even though I'm no expert cyclist. That being said, the Ultegra line is plenty adequate. I just love throwing money at hobbies. SRAM, though, for me, the jury is out.

 

[woodstock]

OK guys, getting ready to buy shoes and pedals. I have been using the cages. Am getting fitted soon.

Speedplay double sided? SIDI shoes? What?

 

[flyersfan31]

OK guys, getting ready to buy shoes and pedals. I have been using the cages. Am getting fitted soon.

Speedplay double sided? SIDI shoes? What?

I ride with SIDI Genius 5 and Speedplays, but I ride a lot of miles and race in triathlons.

I think for your purposes, basic Shimano SPD with a step-above-starter shoe would be fine. I had a pair of $80 adidas bike shoes when I started, but I soon found them unacceptable. Too soft, very uncomfortable in the arches. Had a pair of Cannondales, didn't like the fit of those either. You could get a decent pair of Shimano/Garneau, even SIDI (the Spark) for round about $100. Nashbar is having a big shoe sale at the moment (they're always having a sale!).

 

[woodstock]

Thanks Andrew. Are the SPD double sided, and, do they have "float" if I got that term right? Do I definitely want to get double sided?

 

[ScottM]

Thanks Andrew. Are the SPD double sided, and, do they have "float" if I got that term right? Do I definitely want to get double sided?

SPDs are mostly double sided. There are some single sided models. They have a little 'float' that is the ability to move your foot around. But it is only a little, a lot more than some peddles and a lot less than Speedplays. I use SPDs on my commuting bike and like them a lot.