Any Hunters in Here?

I had pretty much settled on FFP as well as I like that the hashmarks remain consistent at each magnification. There were a few models of NXS that had FFP, but most were SFP. I think I'll opt for the illuminated reticle as well. As far as MOA vs MRAD, I don't have enough knowledge to know one from the other at this point. I've heard MRAD is a little friendlier to off-the-cuff adjustments without having to know all of the ballistics/math in advance. A lot of the gun snobs scoff at Vortex for some reason, but no one denies their warranty and value for the dollar-spent.
 
Also just for posterity, the general build:

Aero Precision LR308 (M5) Upper
Aero Precision LR308 (M5) Lower "Freedom"
Aero Precision Lower Parts Kit
Badger Ordinance Condition One Ambi Safety Selector
SLR Rifleworks Helix 16" Handguard
SLR Rifleworks Rifle Length Gas Tube/Titanium Adjustable Gas Block
Proof Research 20" Carbon Fiber Barrel in .308
Geisselle SD-E Trigger/FCG
JP Enterprises Full Mass BCG
JP Enterprises Silent Capture Spring/H2 Buffer
Radian Raptor SD Charging Handle
Magpul PRS Gen 2 Stock
Driven Arms Beavertail Crossover Grip

Still need to figure out the muzzle brake (or possibly a suppressor).
 
SoonerAviator said:
…As far as MOA vs MRAD…
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Here’s the short version; it’s MOA or MRAD v BDC. MOA/MRAD allows you to rotate the elevation turret for an exact, known distance. For instance 327 yards (MOA) or meters (MRAD). This results in the elevation crosshair being adjusted center of field of view for the desired distance. A BDC reticle will have hashmarks on the elevation cross hair that will be below center and for set distances. For instance, the top elevation crosshair will be zero’d at 100 yards and below that will he a dot or hashmark for 200, another for 300, another for 400, etc. Some will use a big hash/dot for each one hundred yards with intermediate little hashes/dot for the incremental 50 yards).

BDC is easier to learn but less precise. MOA or MRAD will require the use of a ballistic calculator to determine the direction and number of clicks to turn the elevation turret. Some optics makers (Leopold, iirc) offer custom turrets pre-marked for the number of clicks needed for the major and incremental distances.
 
SoonerAviator said:
…Still need to figure out the muzzle brake (or possibly a suppressor).
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A brake will make it exponentially louder, not a fan for .308 which doesn’t throw enough recoil for the brake to make much difference to me.

I’d definitely add a suppressor, especially if hunting and you have patience and money.
 
TCABM said:
A brake will make it exponentially louder, not a fan for .308 which doesn’t throw enough recoil for the brake to make much difference to me.

I’d definitely add a suppressor, especially if hunting and you have patience and money.
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I agree. Look at Surefire products. You can get a flash suppressor and compatible sound suppressor.
 
TCABM said:
A brake will make it exponentially louder, not a fan for .308 which doesn’t throw enough recoil for the brake to make much difference to me.

I’d definitely add a suppressor, especially if hunting and you have patience and money.
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Yeah that was my initial thought as well. Especially in this build (which isn't a lightweight aside from the barrel), the full-mass BCG and H2 buffer should absorb a lot of the recoil as it is, compared to a bolt-action rifle. HuxWrx makes a nice suppressor which reportedly flows the gas really well which means you don't have to mess with buffer weights or adjusting gas block when going between suppressed/unsuppressed. It's going to be a LONG rig with the full rifle stock, 20" barrel, and a 7" suppressor. Not exactly a "brush/woods" gun, lol.
 
JB1842 said:
I agree. Look at Surefire products. You can get a flash suppressor and compatible sound suppressor.
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I saw those as well. I like some of the quick-disconnect designs that Surefire and others use which allows you to remove the suppressor without having to unthread the whole thing.
 
TCABM said:
Here’s the short version; it’s MOA or MRAD v BDC. MOA/MRAD allows you to rotate the elevation turret for an exact, known distance. For instance 327 yards (MOA) or meters (MRAD). This results in the elevation crosshair being adjusted center of field of view for the desired distance. A BDC reticle will have hashmarks on the elevation cross hair that will be below center and for set distances. For instance, the top elevation crosshair will be zero’d at 100 yards and below that will he a dot or hashmark for 200, another for 300, another for 400, etc. Some will use a big hash/dot for each one hundred yards with intermediate little hashes/dot for the incremental 50 yards).

BDC is easier to learn but less precise. MOA or MRAD will require the use of a ballistic calculator to determine the direction and number of clicks to turn the elevation turret. Some optics makers (Leopold, iirc) offer custom turrets pre-marked for the number of clicks needed for the major and incremental distances.
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Appreciate the synopsis. BDC seems like a pretty good option in hunting where you aren't always sitting there with a spotting scope and calculator trying to dial the tiniest of details for each shot. I do like the NightForce "ZeroStop" feature where you place a fixed stop when you zero the gun so that you don't go past it when making turret changes.
 
I have a Ruger 10/22 breakdown and a Remington 500 12g. These are my gotos for getting rid of the ground hogs and some of the squirrels. My neighbor loaned me a havahart trap so I could trap the ground hog. My wife asked if I was going to let him out and shoot him as he ran away. I pointed out that I was just going to shoot him in the trap. It takes a couple of 22 rounds to do in a ground hog unless you hit them just right, so I tried a 38. I need to buy my neighbor a new trap now.
 
flyingron said:
I have a Ruger 10/22 breakdown and a Remington 500 12g. These are my gotos for getting rid of the ground hogs and some of the squirrels. My neighbor loaned me a havahart trap so I could trap the ground hog. My wife asked if I was going to let him out and shoot him as he ran away. I pointed out that I was just going to shoot him in the trap. It takes a couple of 22 rounds to do in a ground hog unless you hit them just right, so I tried a 38. I need to buy my neighbor a new trap now.
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That doesn't sound like much fun. You should watch this documentary on hunting gophers as a reference . . .
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SoonerAviator said:
Was looking at this guy on that same website. Pretty pricey, but I suppose you get what you pay for.

www.silencershop.com

OSS Hx-Qd 762 FC KIT - Silencer Shop

Get the HX-QD 762 Suppressor, a 7.62mm caliber silencer with advanced Flow-Through® technology for reduced blowback and superior sound suppression.
www.silencershop.com www.silencershop.com
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That's a little pricey, but you are saving a couple hundred by not paying for the tax stamp.
 
JB1842 said:
That's a little pricey, but you are saving a couple hundred by not paying for the tax stamp.
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I think a lot of the price on this one is due to the design being a bit different from traditional baffled-suppressors and being able to run with it on or off without it being over-gassed with it on. They also have a 3D printed model (in titanium) that supposedly shaves a bit more weight. Pewscience.com has some pretty good reviews/data behind a lot of different suppressors as well.
 
SoonerAviator said:
It's actually a bit difficult to find many new rifles chambered in 30-06 believe it or not. .308 is where most of them stop unless you are looking at big-game rifles where they start throwing in 6.8GRN, .338 or similar which is REALLY expensive to buy.
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I bought a 700 in 30-06 a couple of years ago at the local Cabela's. It was in stock. Someone gave me a box of 1,000 rounds, so I needed something to run them through.
 
Kenny Phillips said:
I bought a 700 in 30-06 a couple of years ago at the local Cabela's. It was in stock. Someone gave me a box of 1,000 rounds, so I needed something to run them through.
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Can't beat that kind of deal. That's around $1,200-$1,500 in ammo these days. I'm still going to look at a bolt-action of some sort after I get this one all finished. One of my friends/co-workers is waiting on a decently high-end bolt action in 300win to arrive, something like a $3K rig before optics. I'll get a chance to run some rounds through that I'm sure. Doubt I'll be hunting anything I'd need 300Win or bigger in at the moment.
 
Half Fast said:
I didn’t realize that, and it’s a shame. After all,

”There ain't many troubles that a man caint fix
With seven hundred dollars and a thirty ought six.”
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I'm sure the move to cartridges like .308 which gave about 90% of the power of 30-06 in a smaller package started making 30-06 less desirable. I know a lot of guys like .270win as a deer hunting round as well, which was based off the 30-06 cartridge.
 
When you’re a rifle looney it doesn’t matter. The .25-06 is a necked down .30-06 and the .243 is a necked down .308. Both kill deer sized, and often bigger, with aplomb. The modern bullets these days are making caliber and weight less a factor as well.

I still like them all. :)
 
Half Fast said:
How do they avoid the $200 stamp? Is it just baked into the price?
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Yeah, it's just them covering the cost in the total price. They run that tax stamp special fairly frequently on different models. Not a bad deal if the suppressor wasn't marked up a bunch to begin with.
 
SoonerAviator said:
Also just for posterity, the general build:

Aero Precision LR308 (M5) Upper
Aero Precision LR308 (M5) Lower "Freedom"
Aero Precision Lower Parts Kit
Badger Ordinance Condition One Ambi Safety Selector
SLR Rifleworks Helix 16" Handguard
SLR Rifleworks Rifle Length Gas Tube/Titanium Adjustable Gas Block
Proof Research 20" Carbon Fiber Barrel in .308
Geisselle SD-E Trigger/FCG
JP Enterprises Full Mass BCG
JP Enterprises Silent Capture Spring/H2 Buffer
Radian Raptor SD Charging Handle
Magpul PRS Gen 2 Stock
Driven Arms Beavertail Crossover Grip

Still need to figure out the muzzle brake (or possibly a suppressor).
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This is basically the same build I'm working on currently. Minor parts may be different, but overall, the same.
 
SoonerAviator said:
I'm sure the move to cartridges like .308 which gave about 90% of the power of 30-06 in a smaller package started making 30-06 less desirable. I know a lot of guys like .270win as a deer hunting round as well, which was based off the 30-06 cartridge.
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American Rifleman has done a number of articles on the subject of rifle caliber and almost invariably determines that .30-06 is the best all-around caliber. If it has become "less desirable" that is more a testament to marketing than to actual performance variables. Of course, there may be specific instances in which the -06 is not the perfect cartridge, but as an all-around, it's hard to beat!
 
flyingpreacher said:
This is basically the same build I'm working on currently. Minor parts may be different, but overall, the same.
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Yeah I figured "buy once, cry once" on the component selection. I doubt I'll build a second one (at least not for myself) so it may as well be of decent quality that I won't be looking to upgrade parts immediately after I finish the build. Since .308 is about as American a caliber as it gets, I got the Freedom edition lower, lol. Cerakote is going to have a flag/eagle stencil design, but in a dark grey or shade of black so that it's subtle. No red/white/blue bold colors.
 
SoonerAviator said:
Yeah I figured "buy once, cry once" on the component selection. I doubt I'll build a second one (at least not for myself) so it may as well be of decent quality that I won't be looking to upgrade parts immediately after I finish the build. Since .308 is about as American a caliber as it gets, I got the Freedom edition lower, lol. Cerakote is going to have a flag/eagle stencil design, but in a dark grey or shade of black so that it's subtle. No red/white/blue bold colors.
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I'm doing mine all in FDE based off of a polymer 80%. Although with a potential move for work (government job) out of the country, I may have to sell out before I even get it built.
 
flyingpreacher said:
American Rifleman has done a number of articles on the subject of rifle caliber and almost invariably determines that .30-06 is the best all-around caliber. If it has become "less desirable" that is more a testament to marketing than to actual performance variables. Of course, there may be specific instances in which the -06 is not the perfect cartridge, but as an all-around, it's hard to beat!
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Absolutely. They'll all pretty much do the same thing with good shot placement. I'd have a much harder time justifying some of the more boutique ammo like the PRCs and ARCs that are more of a specialized nature, many being born out of competition shooting. Not to mention the cost per round for some of those rare selections.
 
flyingpreacher said:
I'm doing mine all in FDE based off of a polymer 80%. Although with a potential move for work (government job) out of the country, I may have to sell out before I even get it built.
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I want to do an AR15 in FDE. Probably some sort of multi-shade camo effect. I looked at the 80% lowers but didn't feel confident doing an AR10 with a jig/router since they can be a bit more temperamental with fitment to the uppers since there isn't a "mil-spec" on the AR10/LR308 platform. If I were more confident in my gunsmithing skills I'd try one out.
 
SoonerAviator said:
I want to do an AR15 in FDE. Probably some sort of multi-shade camo effect. I looked at the 80% lowers but didn't feel confident doing an AR10 with a jig/router since they can be a bit more temperamental with fitment to the uppers since there isn't a "mil-spec" on the AR10/LR308 platform. If I were more confident in my gunsmithing skills I'd try one out.
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Just be aware of the difference between an "AR-10" and an "LR-308." One has an angled section just before the buffer tube while the other is curved. I've found most to be of the LR-308 variety (ie. Aero Precision M5) My grandfather was a machinist, so I felt mildly comfortable with my skills, but a man in my church is a tool and die maker with a milling machine at his house. Now I'm much more confident!
 
SoonerAviator said:
Absolutely. They'll all pretty much do the same thing with good shot placement. I'd have a much harder time justifying some of the more boutique ammo like the PRCs and ARCs that are more of a specialized nature, many being born out of competition shooting. Not to mention the cost per round for some of those rare selections.
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Another issue is availability. I've been using some oddball calibers for hunting (.303 Brit and 6.5x55 Swede) that may NEVER make it back onto the store (brick & mortar or online) shelf (except for the foreign 6.5 stuff, which doesn't shoot well in my gun and doesn't load well in the Brit).

I'm seriously considering picking up a Weatherby .308 in the future since they are machined and assembled in the US (recently moved their ops from Cali to WY). Added bonus is their owner is a pilot.
 
flyingpreacher said:
Just be aware of the difference between an "AR-10" and an "LR-308." One has an angled section just before the buffer tube while the other is curved. I've found most to be of the LR-308 variety (ie. Aero Precision M5) My grandfather was a machinist, so I felt mildly comfortable with my skills, but a man in my church is a tool and die maker with a milling machine at his house. Now I'm much more confident!
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Yup, also the DPMS High vs DPMS Low can be a factor for handguard selections. The market seems to have better support for the LR308-style than it does the true AR10 platform. Aero isn't generally considered much more than mid-tier at best with AR15 models, but they were almost universally recommended when doing the LR308. My research basically came down to the recommendation that as long as you buy the upper/lower from the same manufacturer, the rest should be pretty easy. Mixing/matching different brands for those components was where designs often clashed or tolerances were slightly off.
 
Practically speaking, there isn’t anything in the lower 48 that you can’t hunt effectively with a .30-06 plus a 12ga. Toss in a .22 if you don’t like hunting small game with a shotgun.

The smorgasbord of calibers comes from manufacturers needing something new and shiny to sell, and to a smaller extent personal preferences and fun factor.

But hunting is done mostly for pleasure, so folks should use what they like. I have a fondness for old SxS doubles so that’s what I use for birds, even though a modern autoloader would probably be more effective.

Whatever pops your cap.
 
CJones said:
Another issue is availability. I've been using some oddball calibers for hunting (.303 Brit and 6.5x55 Swede) that may NEVER make it back onto the store (brick & mortar or online) shelf (except for the foreign 6.5 stuff, which doesn't shoot well in my gun and doesn't load well in the Brit).

I'm seriously considering picking up a Weatherby .308 in the future since they are machined and assembled in the US (recently moved their ops from Cali to WY). Added bonus is their owner is a pilot.
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Precisely why I started this thread and eventually decided on .308 since it is widely available in just about every ammo store across the country, in a variety of bullet weights, and is relatively inexpensive compared to similar rounds. 6.5Cr is another popular round in this segment due to slightly more favorable ballistics at longer distances, but again, slightly more expensive per round and the selection of ammo is more narrow. Weatherby looks to make some great rifles, but I've never held/shot one. The Ruger American Hunter (in .308 or 6.5Cr) was one I was considering as pure hunting rifle after I finish this build. Lightweight, Magpul furniture/receiver, and a threaded barrel for compensators or suppressors. They run about $700 on sale, which is comparable to similar rifles like the Savage Axis and Remington 700, probably not quite to the level of Tikka T3X Varmint.
 
Half Fast said:
Practically speaking, there isn’t anything in the lower 48 that you can’t hunt effectively with a .30-06 plus a 12ga. Toss in a .22 if you don’t like hunting small game with a shotgun.

The smorgasbord of calibers comes from manufacturers needing something new and shiny to sell, and to a smaller extent personal preferences and fun factor.

But hunting is done mostly for pleasure, so folks should use what they like. I have a fondness for old SxS doubles so that’s what I use for birds, even though a modern autoloader would probably be more effective.

Whatever pops your cap.
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Absolutely agree. SxS doubles and over/unders are just cool anyway, especially with some glossy furniture. I've already got the Mossberg 500 12ga with short and long barrels. .22 are great for plinking, too, and cheap to run.
 
SoonerAviator said:
Precisely why I started this thread and eventually decided on .308 since it is widely available in just about every ammo store across the country, in a variety of bullet weights, and is relatively inexpensive compared to similar rounds. 6.5Cr is another popular round in this segment due to slightly more favorable ballistics at longer distances, but again, slightly more expensive per round and the selection of ammo is more narrow. Weatherby looks to make some great rifles, but I've never held/shot one. The Ruger American Hunter (in .308 or 6.5Cr) was one I was considering as pure hunting rifle after I finish this build. Lightweight, Magpul furniture/receiver, and a threaded barrel for compensators or suppressors. They run about $700 on sale, which is comparable to similar rifles like the Savage Axis and Remington 700, probably not quite to the level of Tikka T3X Varmint.
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I've shot a Browning X-Bolt in 6.8 Western. That's a nice gun as well. Very tight action and very well balanced.
 
CJones said:
I've shot a Browning X-Bolt in 6.8 Western. That's a nice gun as well. Very tight action and very well balanced.
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I held one of the X-Bolt rifles in-store and the action was very smooth. I'd put it on-par with the Tikka T3X for sure. No idea how it shoots, but I don't doubt it's worth the $1,200 they were asking for the one I picked up. Would be a great gun to buy used if I could find it in good condition.
 
I own 2 Tikka T3 Lites. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Tikka rifle. But I bought them when they went for $600 new. I also own a Ruger American. Great budget rifle. If you have a Dunhams sporting goods by you, they usually have good prices come fall hunting season.
 
JB1842 said:
I own 2 Tikka T3 Lites. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another Tikka rifle. But I bought them when they went for $600 new. I also own a Ruger American. Great budget rifle. If you have a Dunhams sporting goods by you, they usually have good prices come fall hunting season.
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The Ruger American seemed decent, but there were some complaints about the magazine being flimsy/finicky. The American Hunter version uses a Magpul stock with Magpul receiver/magazine which solves those complaints, in addition to the upgraded barrel and trigger set. Most of the Tikka T3 variants are closer to $850, and the ones that compete with the American Hunter model for capacity/barrel are $1,200+. As with many things, the quality control and detail you get from the Tikka is what makes up the cost difference (and undoubtedly a smoother action), imo. I suppose it's nice to have so many options for rifle choices, lol.

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