Windshield sealant?

StinkBug

StinkBug

Cleared for Takeoff
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It seems that the sealant on the top edge of my windshield has started to give up. The last few times I've flown into IMC I had nice cold drips of water coming out of the top center right onto my right hand. I'm guessing it's probably not a huge deal to run a bead of sealant across the edge of the window, but not sure if there's some super special stuff that should be used.

I just got done resealing the roof and windows of my RV and still have a couple different kinds of sealant that I know will hold up for a dozen years in that environment, any reason I don't use the same stuff?
 
Did that on my old plane, think it was a 3M clear silicone, we masked both sides of the line between the windshield and the plane, applied it, flattened it, pulled the tape.
 
StinkBug said:
I just got done resealing the roof and windows of my RV and still have a couple different kinds of sealant that I know will hold up for a dozen years in that environment, any reason I don't use the same stuff?
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Is it plastic safe?
 
My mechanic just resealed the windshield on my 182. They removed the old sealant and replaced the felt and then resealed with some kind of black RTV-like sealant.
 
Could always try calling a windshield manufacture and just ask what they recommend
 
Use those until some jerk argues that it requires a A&P to do the work, an IA to sign it off and the FSDO to approve the 337.:mad2::D
 
If you used Geocel Proflex sealant on your RV it's not usable on acrylic. Regular silicone sealant is effective on a new, clean surface but once cured new silicone will not adhere if applied over it. So if any silicone is left in the joint from the prior sealing it's just like painting over dirt, you'll still have leaks. The Geocel I think adheres to just about anything but it says right on the datasheet not to use it on acrylic skylight glazing materials.
 
StinkBug said:
RVs have a lot of plastic, aluminum, fiberglass and rubber. It's designed to bond to all of them without discoloring.
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OK, I should have been more specific.

Given that we have no idea what "it" is, it's difficult to answer the original question. But, one concern would be how well it works with acrylic plastics. Many things that work with fiberglass, aluminum, etc, can cause crazing when applied to a more solvent sensitive surface such as acrylic.
 
In my experience, trying to patch seal a windshield leak is a messy exercise in futility. Pull it, clean everything up, and replace or reinstall with new continuous sealer and be done with it. Best to do it soon, because leaking windshields cause expensive avionics repairs.
 
Lexel (lexcel?) is a product designed for plexi and lexan and is often available at local hardware and big box stores. It is typically in the caulk section and cures clear.

Proseal is another option. It cures dark grey or black and is paintable.

Both have worked for me.
 
Does anyone know how much material it takes to do a C182?
The genius that installed my windows used silicone, and it didn't adhere to the windows. Now its peeling off and whistling, and probably soon to be flooding my new panel.
 
Surprised that vulkem isn't spec'd. It's what we use on airstreams


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I used a white butyl rubber sealant made by Bosch or similar name. Can't find it at the moment.
 
GlennAB1 said:
I argue that it meets Item (10) under preventive maintenance, of FAR Part 43 Appendix A.
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i will mostly agree with you, BUT, putting on my "think like the FAA hat", item 13 says replacing side windows, they will argue that to clean the windshield to apply a sealant you must remove it so that would be re-installing a windshield, not a side window so you would violate item 13......
 
Airliners get cockpit window/windshield sealant touched up without removing them, quite often, I wouldn't think it's a concern with a bug smasher.
 
The proseal comes in a two part applicator and was more than enough to do my 172 so it should work on your 182 just fine. I made the mistake of making too fine a seal, I should have overlapped the window and the metal retaining trim piece more as after just a few years it's peeled away a bit. I wrote up an article on how I did mine complete with pics. If I find it I'll post a link. I am not mechanically inclined but with a few pointers from a mechanic I was able to get a decent result.
 
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