What to know about buying a jeep

Tom-D

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Tom-D
We would like a jeep Wrangler to tow behind the coach.

what's the good and bad

we are looking at a 2007, wrangler with 14,000 miles, and looks like new 2 door, and all the goodies including nav.. at $22,500 the dealer is giving us $20K for our two vehicles. (2004 Pacifica, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500.)

good deal or what?
 
Wow, a 2007 with 14k, that's a pristine garage queen basically. No wonder it's pricey. Make sure to check Carfax on it and look what Kelly Blue Book says about private transaction prices.
 
I've driven Jeeps for years. I have a 1998 Wrangler I bought six years ago for ten thousand dollars, it had 24,000 miles on it. They handle a whole lot nicer if you keep em close to stock as you can. I had a V8 CJ-5 before this one. It was all machoed out, jacked up, big tires etc. It kinda jumped around curves, it was fun. My wrangler has regular street tires on it, since that is where I do most my driving, much more comfortable to drive.

Get a hard top for it, a whole lot nicer than all those rags and plastic.

John
 
Jeeps, like most Chryslers, have electrical systems that I'm not a big fan of. I can't remember what engine they had in 2007, but I'm a big fan of the 4.0L I6. When they went to the V6, it was a bad move.

I also think that they're giving you low trade-in value on your two vehicles, at least if your Dodge has a Cummins in it (which I thought yours did).

Very little has changed on Wranglers overall. I would consider getting an older, cheaper one, and then doing with your vehicles as you see fit. Otherwise, I've always enjoyed the Jeeps I've driven. Wranglers with a manual transmission and the 4.0L I6 are some darn fun cars.
 
Sounds like a really nice Jeep. Is it the standard wheelbase or the Unlimited LWB? I've got an old '95 Wrangler 4-cyl/5-spd with 115K miles that's my daily driver around town and to/from the airport. Noisy, drafty, entirely impractical, and loads of fun....just like my airplane.
 
I had soft top Jeep Wranglers for years. The only insight I'd have is that the inside of a soft top Jeep Wrangler is a public place, so leave no valuables inside and leave the doors unlocked. I'm not sure about the security of the hard tops, but I'd never put a nav system in a soft top, in my neighborhood it would disappear.
-harry
 
The Chrysler straight 6 4l engines are indestructible. If you can get a Wrangler with one of those go for it.

Not completely indestructible. The first 4.2 in my 87 Wrangler only lasted 80,000 miles before developing massive blow-by.
 
2007 was the first year for the new body style - 'JK'.

The JKs come with the same motor as in the Dodge Caravan - 3.7L. They are good on mileage (relatively speaking), but lower on power than the 'old' 4.0L I6. Starting in 2012, they will have a better motor than the 3.7.

The JKs have a few more creature comforts than the old TJ/YJs with a somewhat more 'cushy' interior and seem to ride a bit better (stock) than the previous models.

As far as 'what to look for' - check the standard 4WD components - pops in the t-case when in 4WD, front u-joints, etc. IIRC, the JK's come with Dana 44 axles front and rear, which will be more than adequare for what you are planning to do with it.

The only 'gotcha' that comes with the automatic JK's is that if you are going to do any towing or slow cruising in the mtns, you will want to add a tranny cooler. They have a tendency to overheat the transmission and the overflow tube sprays directly onto the catalytic converter. Chrysler came out with a recall which reprograms the computer to flash and beep when the transmission gets hot, but they never addressed the overflow tube placement or the fact that it overheats when going 15mph up a mild incline in 2WD. If you're wheeling and dealing with them (and if it's an automatic), you might want to see if they'll throw in a tranny cooler while they're at it. If it's a manual, it's no problem.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head...
 
The engine I am talking about is not a 4.2 but a 4.0 straight 6 and every mechanic that I know raves about that engine and wishes it was still being used.

My understanding is that the 4.0 is a take-off of the 4.2 which was a take-off of the old Mopar slant-6.

My 4.2 (and the Jeep it's in) was made by AMC.

The 4.2 also has a reputation as a bullet-proof engine. I though I simply got a bad one, but I recently learned that some of them went bad with the same problem.
 
I have an '08 Wrangler (JK) with both tops in a 6-speed manual and it's been our favorite car around the house for the couple of years we've owned it. I bought it to teach the kids how to drive a stick and to have a vehicle that would do more damage to whatever they hit in it than be damaged. So far, it's a success on all counts. Great car and I'd happily own another.

If you have the hard top, I'd strongly recommend getting the electric wench if you have the garage height to install it. I can take it on and off and switch between tops in less than an hour as a one man job.
 
09 Wrangler X. Love it. Tons of fun. Wish I had bought one years ago. Soft top doesn't bother me at all in winter time, but as Harry says, I don't leave anything in the vehicle. Don't even bother locking it -- what's the point???!!!!

v6 or I6, as long as it has 6 cylinders and a manual transmission. Why?

1) Manual is the best way to wring what little performance this drivetrain has out of it.

2) An automatic in a Jeep? Honestly!

3) The 4cyl Jeeps are doggy as all get out going up any sort of hill on a highway. If you're doing most of your driving off-road, then that obviously doesn't matter. If you are going to do fair mileage on the open road, you'll kick yourself if you get a 4.

It doesn't sound like a screamin' deal to me. Jeeps do depreciate quite rapidly. Still, with 2 vehicles to trade, the dealer will likely not be cutting his best deal with you.

If you feel comfortable with the numbers, go for it. If you're someone who has to squeeze every last penny out of every transaction, I'd shop around some more.
 
My understanding is that the 4.0 is a take-off of the 4.2 which was a take-off of the old Mopar slant-6.

My 4.2 (and the Jeep it's in) was made by AMC.

The 4.2 also has a reputation as a bullet-proof engine. I though I simply got a bad one, but I recently learned that some of them went bad with the same problem.

The 4.0 (and the 4.2) are both survivors from AMC, but have no common genesis with the old ChryCo slant six (not that there would be any negative connotation there).

I had a Cherokee with the 4.0 ('89 model), sold it with 160,000 or so miles, running like new, and I know the guy to whom I sold it had well over 225k miles last I heard. Reputation as a granite-solid engine. Only failure I ever had on it were the Bosch fuel injectors, which all failed in the 90k to 110k mileage frame. Damned German quality.
 
I had a '97 Wranger soft top.

I thought I wanted one. I used it off road a few times and it was very capable.

The only problem was the other 97.8% of the time.

Sold it and haven't looked back.
 
v6 or I6, as long as it has 6 cylinders and a manual transmission. Why?
1) Manual is the best way to wring what little performance this drivetrain has out of it.
2) An automatic in a Jeep? Honestly!
This is definitely a matter of opinion. Everyone who's serious about jeeping either gets an auto and installs a cooler with fan, or gets a manual and installs the third hand kit. You can't heel-toe a jeep with manual on the rocks. I bought an auto for that reason. Much easier that way.
-- Pete
 
Maintenance nightmare? Yes. Slow? Yes. Radio? No. Air conditioning? No.
The best toy SUV to drive around when not in the RV that will make you feel awesome? Certainly.

UBX929T-01.jpg
 
Oh God, a Rover... please spare me, not in the US, it's a parts nightmare, at least the Defender series.

Tom, whatever you get to tow behind the coach, get a float to tow it on. Saves your towed vehicle and fuel towing.
 
This is definitely a matter of opinion. Everyone who's serious about jeeping either gets an auto and installs a cooler with fan, or gets a manual and installs the third hand kit. You can't heel-toe a jeep with manual on the rocks. I bought an auto for that reason. Much easier that way.
-- Pete

If you've ever owned a carbureted 5-speed Wrangler (I know the 87 has a carb) you certainly can heel-toe it. There's no other way to keep it running at a red light.
 
Oh God, a Rover... please spare me, not in the US, it's a parts nightmare, at least the Defender series.
True, true. But the incredible impracticality is what makes it great.
I think they're the absolute coolest... like wooden powerboats, airplanes with round engines, and old airhead BMW motorcycles, the best things in life are often insufferable money and frustration pits. No?
 
The Chrysler straight 6 4l engines are indestructible. If you can get a Wrangler with one of those go for it.

Amen. I drive a 1999 TJ (Wrangler) with that engine. 160,000 miles on the clock and still running strong. I've even replaced the spark plugs (once).

For the older Wranglers, everying thing before the 1997 model has leaf springs. Starting with the TJ body style (1997-) they went to coil spring suspension. Remove the stabilizer bar links and you've actually got much better articulation with the coils. Better ride stock, too. Our daughter had a 1995 (last year of the YJ, there are NO 1996 model year Wranglers) and it did not ride as nicely as my 1999. Now, nice ride and Jeep Wrangler are mutually exclusive terms, but this was a relative comparison. :D

Would I buy another? If I had to. However, with all the "stuff" coming out of Washington DC I'll probably just replace whatever breaks on mine (engine, transmission, whatever) and keep it running for years to come. It does what I bought it for quite well (get me to and from work in any weather, get amateur radio gear to any point in the county in case of emergency) and I'd be hard presssed to find something better. And, it's fun.

Now, keep in mine that if you decide to upgrade yours, you will quickly learn the truth in "JEEP - Just Empty Every Pocket". :D :D
 
I have a 1998 Wrangler which was the most basic model at the time I bought it. Strangely it's getting the most use it's ever gotten in its life at this time because I lent it to a coworker who wrecked his own truck. Hmmm, maybe that wasn't such a smart idea. :rofl:

I don't know what possessed me to buy it at the time or why I don't get rid of it since I don't use it very much but there you have it...
 
we bought it 2500 and our two cars the dealer dropped a grand on price.

It has a 3.8 V6, with 17k mileage vice the 14 quoted earlier, soft top, big tires and a 4" lift kit, and some other stuff,

silver to match the coach, now comes the toad hitch, brake system, and towing lights wire kit, and a trailer hitch, to tow my little utility trailer.
 
we bought it 2500 and our two cars the dealer dropped a grand on price.

It has a 3.8 V6, with 17k mileage vice the 14 quoted earlier, soft top, big tires and a 4" lift kit, and some other stuff,

silver to match the coach, now comes the toad hitch, brake system, and towing lights wire kit, and a trailer hitch, to tow my little utility trailer.

Ooooooo - it comes with goodies already?!

You'll love it.
 
Pictures we pick it up tomorrow.
 

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Tom, whatever you get to tow behind the coach, get a float to tow it on. Saves your towed vehicle and fuel towing.


What is that, link me to one. The reason we bought the jeep was to tow 4 down with lock out hubs. that's an option that allows the wheels front and back to spin when nothing else does. Saves the mileage on the toad's tranny/transfer case, and differentials.


"so they say"
 
What is that, link me to one. The reason we bought the jeep was to tow 4 down with lock out hubs. that's an option that allows the wheels front and back to spin when nothing else does. Saves the mileage on the toad's tranny/transfer case, and differentials.


"so they say"

Keep in mind that tires of those size/type are pretty expensive, and so is everything else that will get the unnecessary wear (shocks, etc.). Also, and someone else will be able to answer this, when you tow a vehicle that's lifted like that or that has the big tires, are there any problems with control?

Where I am, I see a pretty high number of people towing lifted jeeps of all vintages. When I think about it, I'm almost certain that I've never seen one that's not on a trailer.

Just something to consider.

Anyway, cool jeep. While the older jeeps certainly have some advantages, in my opinion the '07 and later models are a superior edition (the only real ? mark is the engine, which is new, but if I remember correctly there's a lifetime warranty on them and the rest of the drivetrain that's transferable between owners - look into it). My parents bought an '07 that's used extensively on FS-type roads, and my brother's got a '10, and they're both good vehicles. If I didn't have a particular affinity for the YJ (feel free to bust my chops), I'd rather have the new one. If for no other reason than it won't rattle your teeth out of your skull.
 
The engine I am talking about is not a 4.2 but a 4.0 straight 6 and every mechanic that I know raves about that engine and wishes it was still being used.

I can't say differently. My 89 Jeep commanche with 4.0 I6 is at 260,000+ miles. It leaks a little oil and a little antifreeze both from places I can't seem to locate. But I keep them topped off and am headed for 300,000 miles. It does have some valve noise (clicking) that my mechanics say I don't really need to worry about, they must be right, it has had it since about 60,000 miles.

Brian
 
we often go east of the mountains and camp in the spring, ( we love the Okanogan in the spring) and run roads like these (pictures) and that's about how far off the pavement we'll go.
 

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Ohhh.. Didn't realize it was a lifted Jeep. Any idea what brand lift is on it?

As for whoever asked about flat towing a lifted Jeep - if the lift is installed correctly, it shouldn't have any problems. Alignment and tire balance is something to keep an eye on with those larger tires. For the roads you have pictured, some BGF All-Terrains could be a good replacement set when the time comes - not as aggressive as a full mud-terrain, but the tread works well for moderate snow/mud and they are relatively quiet on the road (plus they have a more aggressive appearance than the standard all-terrains ;)).

One of the JK owners from my local Jeep club said he talked to a dealer rep the other day and they said lifts <=3.5" could be used and not void the warranty, anything over about 3.5" and Chrysler starts asking more questions regarding warranty work. That is all second-hand knowledge, so take it for what it's worth.

Looks like a nice rig.. Should be fun and pretty darn capable for anything you throw at it! Have fun!

If you make it down to Georgia with that setup, give me a holler and I can show you some fun spots:
main.php
 
I hope they are better on ice/snow than when I drove one in 1992. I did a completely unassisted 360 on a surface which admittedly rated pretty poor on the JBI, but nothing unusual for a northern, winter road. The ancient diesel Landcruiser did so much better, you could scream along ice at 60mph and it would track perfectly. (THE best vehicle in ice was the VW Scirocco; absolutely unbelievable!)
 
I have a 2003 TJ Sport. Bought it new and it has been great to me with over 130K miles on it. Had it all over the Rockies outside of Denver, and I mean OFF ROAD for three years. You can see it in the background of my Tiger pic below. It has 31's and a D44 limited slip rear with some additional undercarriage protection but other than that its stock. The I-6 4.0 has been bullet proof so far and married to the five speed is fun as Ted says.
 
What is that, link me to one. The reason we bought the jeep was to tow 4 down with lock out hubs. that's an option that allows the wheels front and back to spin when nothing else does. Saves the mileage on the toad's tranny/transfer case, and differentials.


"so they say"

"A Float" is just a lowboy flatbed trailer, you can get even cheaper, lighter ones that just have a set of runners for the wheels, but a full flatbed is more practical in the long run. I've seen lock out hubs up front on a 4WD but never in the rear. I haven't worked on any late model Jeeps, but the ones from the 80s on back had taper shaft axles into the hub. Most people tow Jeeps with the transfer case in neutral, but it's still working on the back side of the chain and gears, not a big deal though. Also saves you on those big expensive tires, towing is actually tpougher on them than driving plus you don't get all the crap kicked up into your grill and radiator.

http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/tandem-axle-car-hauler-trailer-6000-lb-gvwr.html
 
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