Henning said ":::It stabilizes the piston square in the bore through the flop at the top so the compression rings stay square in the bore. The ring can only provide a 'perfect seal' when it is square in the bore. Any 'rocking' of the piston creates a "circle in an ellipsoid" relationship which will break the seal and allow bypass."
By putting an oil control ring lower on the skirt (best below the wrist pin), it will minimize the rocking force of the piston. They need to redesign the piston and potentially connecting rod to affect a correct fix. __________________
What? If you were trying to correct piston slap reduce the piston to bore clearance in the manufacturing process, done and done. I have never seen an example in any piston engine where adding another oil control ring reduced piston slap. I have never seen any ring below the wrist pin either. Do you have an example?
I still think this is exactly what it seems, you have an oil squirter coating the bottom of the piston and the bore in this engine, the existing oil control ring was overwhelmed on the down stroke so an additional oil control ring was added. This engine was modified from earlier versions with the addition of the squirters and part of that seems to be a coincident blow by problem, even with a factory separator, and new tolerances.
I will chime in with what I feel is pertinent to this topic.
First, since this is a motor where thousands were built and the basic design has been proved to be sufficient and the motor has not been bored/stroked or any other geometry has been altered, then a redesign of the piston /crank /rod alignment is not needed or required...
There are alot of motors built with oil control rings on the skirt and below the wrist pin. Most of those applications are on inline ( pistons are moving straight up and down). To a lesser extent that style piston is used in motors with a ( V ) configuration and the vast majority are in industrial applications which use long strokes to gain maximum torque.. That reciprocating action will cause piston rock in the cylinder bores mainly because of the sheer weight of heavy pistons and rods and the rod / crank angles involved with long stroke motors.
Our aircraft motors are horizontal motors and believe it or not gravity does influence pistons that are riding in the cylinders.. Also remember, aircraft motors have pistons with rather short skirts and that does not help the piston rocking action... Henning has it right that pistons need to be perfectly square in the bores for the rings to operate properly.. By adding a lower ring, it will help the stability and squareness of piston, and that ring assembly does not need to be a true oil control ring but have enough stiffness to prevent piston rock and act as a preliminary oil control device... On most turbo motors the piston oiler is needed to spray on the inside bottom of the piston dome to help carry away the extra heat the turbo imposes on it.. That oil spray in pretty well aimed at the area on the piston but some does get on the cylinder walls when the piston is close to and at top dead center so the lower oil control /stability ring does become effective for scraping excess oil and reducing oil consumption..
Piston to wall / cylinder clearances are VERY hard to alter or reduce since the operating temperature range does not change much from the original design.... At face value it looks like reducing that clearance would be simple way to cure piston rock but unless you use different piston materials with smaller expansion rates and cylinders were drastically redesigned to maintain less thermal expansion /contraction rates at all operating conditions changing piston to wall clearances are not a viable workaround method..., Piston to wall clearance is always set to the greater clearance as closer tolerances could cause pistons to stick in the bores... You do NOT want that. The trade off is the piston will not be as stabile.
As the one poster pointed out. loading a piston with upper and lower rings will be a little more difficult . cylinders usually have a large chamfered angle on the bottom and that will let you "walk" the lower ring in altho since you have just used the ring compressor on the top set of rings, just repositioning it a little lower to assist the lower ring is easy.