Theboys
Line Up and Wait
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2010
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- 835
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- Lincoln Nebraska- Plant city florida
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Theboys
You won't like a belly mower as well as a 3 point. Can't get under trees and such. Plus keeps dirt behind
What you need to do is build yourself a lawn mowing Roomba out of the Snapper.
ted, the best lawnmower I've ever used was my uncle's farmall B with an 8ft belly mower. Compact in length and comfortable. However, like all belly-mower tractors with no 3-pt, it was good for only 1 thing: mowing
You won't like a belly mower as well as a 3 point. Can't get under trees and such. Plus keeps dirt behind
What could possibly go wrong????
Well, if you consider the other automated option is a herd of goats, all I can say is "less". Unless the lawn mowing Roomba becomes sentient, it'll do less damage than a herd of goats.
I do agree about trees being a pain, unless you keep the lowest branches cut up to 7' high. Otherwise you are ducking constantly and the ROPS is breaking limbs, too.
The MMM on most are pretty easy to get on and off, so it's not much of a time saver to have a 3pt. The only real benefit to 3pt is when backing it down trails or wet/soft ground to be able to avoid getting the tractor stuck/hung up on the MMM.
I have a Kubota B6200 with 4wd and loader. Great little tractor. It's been retired to an easier life as my airplane tug. I'm real popular when the snow drifts up against hangar doors.
I have a Kubota B6200 with 4wd and loader. Great little tractor. It's been retired to an easier life as my airplane tug. I'm real popular when the snow drifts up against hangar doors.
our tug when we were down south was a JD4020Yeah, the reality for my airplane tug is that the old Wheel Horse C10 I have isn't big enough.
our tug when we were down south was a JD4020
I found out that while you CAN tear down a smaller tree by hooking a branch with the ROPS, it is only the second best way of completing the task
The new MMM on the small kubota (and 1 and 2-series JD) is a drive-over design and goes on and off by turning two levers. The PTO shaft remains on the tractor and connects to a 'carriage' with a bearing and coupling to connect to the mower deck. The downside is that if you want to take the tractor into woods, you have to remove the carriage as well to keep it from getting bent by a stump. Pic below is the mower carriage when it was new and shiny. The grey part is the lift-arm that would pick up the regular MMM.
I heard that nothing creates new friendships like ownership of a backhoe.
As I said, having a really nice pretty cut isn't much of a priority out in middle of nowhere farm country. We didn't even care about a super nice manicured lawn in the city. So, speed and comfort are priorities.
I'm liking the idea of a medium tractor with a belly mower to replace the Snapper. Amounts to the same thing only more comfortable. I have a brush hog already and so maybe I use that for the outer acres if Laurie and I are both mowing. Could get one in a Ford or Farmall style to expand the collection.
I heard that nothing creates new friendships like ownership of a backhoe.
Put a fence up, put the kids in 4h and buy some lambs to eat the grass and sell at the County Fair 4h auction.
I put the front end loader on the D17 to work yesterday to flip the Massey's tire over. Picked the 500-1000 lb thing up, drove it where I wanted it, put it back down and flipped it. This thing is awesome!
One of my hoses is seeping, and one of the rams is also seeping. So I need to find a hose shop for sure to fix the one hose, have to figure out about the ram. Is the best thing to do with those usually rebuild, have someone else rebuild, or replace?
Dude, those Rams are dirt simple and the parts/materials available at any hydraulic/industrial supply. You have the ability, no worries.
I figured they were pretty simple to do,just never done it before
A couple have some corrosion on the parts that are exposed when sitting. Any remedy for that or treatment?
I have a couple of rams with "rough" spots in the chrome.....I just polished them with a sctochbrite/deburring pad on a die grinder and replaced the o-rings. They are fine and will eventually leak....but prolly not in my lifetime.Outside of cleaning it up, not really. If it never goes inside the seal, it's not an issue. If it goes inside, you may need to replace, at that point a whole rebuilt cylinder is cheapest.
I have a couple of rams with "rough" spots in the chrome.....I just polished them with a sctochbrite/deburring pad on a die grinder and replaced the o-rings. They are fine and will eventually leak....but prolly not in my lifetime.
Short of the ram or cylinder being scored, a reseal is a piece o' cake. Sometimes the gland nuts can take a little creative persuasion...if replacing the piston o- rings is necessary, The Surplus Center sometimes has some good online deals for all manner of hydraulic stuff, including parts. Baum Iron is another. Applied Industrial Technologies is a great source of all manner of seals, bearings and such, but I don't know if they have stores out near you.
Discovering the miracle fluid power can be addicting...I built a hydraulic drive for my old manure spreader and a hydraulic bush hog for the skidsteer last fall.
If your bucket settles with a load, that's an indication the piston seals need replacement.
In the maritime world, I try to keep as much stuff hydraulic as possible. Having all the critical moving parts continuously bathed in oil has some advantages.
Google it, you can probably find a step by step with pictures. There's not much to those.Well, the Massey's carburetor started leaking fuel. As in, it just dumps fuel into the engine now. Seems like it's probably a float issue.
I'm going to pull it off tomorrow and see what kind it is. Never rebuilt a carb before, but if @jesse was able to rebuild the carbs on his jetski, I figure I can handle rebuilding this thing myself.
Google it, you can probably find a step by step with pictures. There's not much to those.