Thinking about a Bus/RV

You and that engineering wizardry will have songs and poems written about you on that RV group. Either that or there will be whispers of the legend, “You are too young to remember that guy with those electric fans, but it’s all true. Let me tell you the stories…”
 
You and that engineering wizardry will have songs and poems written about you on that RV group. Either that or there will be whispers of the legend, “You are too young to remember that guy with those electric fans, but it’s all true. Let me tell you the stories…”
“…and to this day, you can sometimes see Frankenbus transporting the Dog Star to its new home.”
 
It’s never been done by anyone else as far as I can tell, and after me, I bet it will never be done again. :)
 
Question about our RV...
Is it bad when your wife sleeps in the RV in the driveway instead of the house?

lol
 
Question about our RV...
Is it bad when your wife sleeps in the RV in the driveway instead of the house?

lol

We actually had planned to sleep a night in the RV in the driveway before making our first trip. It didn’t end up happening.

#icankillanyjoke
 
We actually had planned to sleep a night in the RV in the driveway before making our first trip. It didn’t end up happening.

#icankillanyjoke

The sleeping in the RV the night before or the trip?

I'm pretty late to this thread, so what I say has probably already been said (I'm not going to read through all the posts). But just in case: We have a 31' Class A that could sleep 4 adults and a couple of smaller kids in a pinch. The kitchen table can be lowered into the benches and the cushions use for, well, cushioning. The couch is a fold-out.

You don't want a 5th wheel if restless kids in the back of the truck are an issue, and it sounds like they are. As I understand it, most (all?) states won't let you have pax in a trailer, and I don't think it would be safe anyway. Yeah, a 5th wheel isn't exactly a trailer, but I think the safety issues still apply. Also, you can't keep an eye on them, and that's an issue with kids that young. 5-year-olds are like horses; they have an infinite capacity to find ways to hurt themselves.

For me, when we were shopping for an RV, by far the biggest deal was the kitchen. 95% of RVs don't have enough counter space. Well, really, 100% don't, but 95% don't have any. We found one with counter space and a fold-up counter. I also was surprised at how many don't have a table to eat at. That was a no-go for me, since not only do I prefer to eat on a table, I also was using my RV for work and needed someplace to put my computer and lay out stuff. I can't imagine the mess with kids eating with plates balanced on their knees.
 
Today I did the first part of the electric fan conversion project, which was work on removing the intercooler and radiator. Well, I suppose I ended up not removing the radiator, but it's all disconnected and wont' take long once I have an extra set of hands. It's just too heavy and I ended up getting it wedged in a bad spot trying to manhandle it out myself.

Removal really wasn't all that awful, it was more just time consuming as I tried to figure out all of the things to disconnect. And even then that wasn't too awful, but this was all put together over 20 years ago and not intended to ever be serviced. Some RVs on the Freightliner XC chassis actually have access points to allow radiator removal. I have no idea how this would be done on this bus without causing some level of destruction. In my case, I opted to cut the top out of the fan shroud since I'm not going to be reusing that with the electric fans going back in. However I didn't destroy the thing, and could piece it back together if need be. Once I cut that part out, it was easy to remove the intercooler.

I had originally intended on replacing the radiator and intercooler while I had them out. But now that I have everything apart and am looking at them, I really don't see a need to. The things are 100% metal and thick metal at that. They're heavy and tough. No plastic end tanks. So I think I'm going to clean the things up and then start working on the fan mounts and get ready to reinstall the whole thing.

The control part I think is maybe the harder part. I need to see which of the ports in the thermostat housing I can get off, and I think I'll put in a Ford coolant temp sensor. That'll work regardless of what control box I use, although one friend of mine is suggesting I start off with just using manual switches. He may be right, the part that comes to my mind with that is running the 50 feet of wire, and that's annoying. But it probably is what I should do.

0F6D8AC3-2BEF-465E-AE21-5D4EBA8673AE.jpeg 6C013324-C5E3-421F-8CDD-E487D0ABE514.jpeg
 
Nice work....that's a really cramped space. I'd put a relay there, rather than running all the current all the way to the front and back, but just me. And maybe something to measure compartment ambient temp and verify fan power remotely. But I over-design things usually.
 
Nice work....that's a really cramped space. I'd put a relay there, rather than running all the current all the way to the front and back, but just me. And maybe something to measure compartment ambient temp and verify fan power remotely. But I over-design things usually.

My plan is to put in 4 relays, one per fan, each fan will have its own fuse. That way my single point failures are minimal.

Ultimately they're going to be controlled by a computer of some sort as I don't want all 4 cycling on and off at the same time long term. But I may play with individual switches (or even one individual switch) to start.
 
What is the blue flexible hose going into a hard line? Just curious.
 
What is the blue flexible hose going into a hard line? Just curious.

You mean the blue thing across the top and right side of the pictures? Electrical wires for a light for the engine area.
 
My plan is to put in 4 relays, one per fan, each fan will have its own fuse. That way my single point failures are minimal.

Ultimately they're going to be controlled by a computer of some sort as I don't want all 4 cycling on and off at the same time long term. But I may play with individual switches (or even one individual switch) to start.

I would think it might be better, functionally, to use maybe just to two relays. Fewer failure points, and it would essentially result in a low/hi function. I can't imagine that you would need all 4 to operate independently for this relatively simple function.
 
I would think it might be better, functionally, to use maybe just to two relays. Fewer failure points, and it would essentially result in a low/hi function. I can't imagine that you would need all 4 to operate independently for this relatively simple function.

Each fan will draw around 20A nominally, so if nothing else having a relationship for each fan allows me to use less expensive relays. Plus then one failure only gets me a 25% loss in capacity instead of 50%.

Activation wise, I’m not sure what I’ll do just yet as far as the algorithm. I’m going to let the system tell me what it wants.
 
My plan is to put in 4 relays, one per fan, each fan will have its own fuse. That way my single point failures are minimal.

Ultimately they're going to be controlled by a computer of some sort as I don't want all 4 cycling on and off at the same time long term. But I may play with individual switches (or even one individual switch) to start.

Hate to say it, and maybe it's not a bad thing, but pretty sure you over-design more than me. :)
 
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While Googling around, looking for options on how to best use the Arduino controller, I stumbled upon this, which I think is likely the best solution:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-i...-speed-pwm-fan-control-under-25-less-diy.html

I like several things about this setup. For one, it uses OEM PWM fan controllers that default to full "ON" if the signal is lost from the unit. And since they're off of common Mazda/Mitsubishi cars, readily available and cheap. This makes for a good failure mode in case of a problem with the board or wiring.

The other thing I like about it is that this will let me control all 4 fans (if I want, I could probably even control them separately) on a PWM signal instead of on a dedicated on/off setup. Aside from being easier on the system all around, this would also allow more even airflow across the radiator by utilizing all of the fans, rather than having my only way of modulating airflow being on or off with the individual fans. I'm going to look at this a bit more and think about what I'd want to do. This is also how those fans were intended to be operated from the factory, so I think it would be easier on the motors and result in more longevity.
 
While Googling around, looking for options on how to best use the Arduino controller, I stumbled upon this, which I think is likely the best solution:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-i...-speed-pwm-fan-control-under-25-less-diy.html

I like several things about this setup. For one, it uses OEM PWM fan controllers that default to full "ON" if the signal is lost from the unit. And since they're off of common Mazda/Mitsubishi cars, readily available and cheap. This makes for a good failure mode in case of a problem with the board or wiring.

The other thing I like about it is that this will let me control all 4 fans (if I want, I could probably even control them separately) on a PWM signal instead of on a dedicated on/off setup. Aside from being easier on the system all around, this would also allow more even airflow across the radiator by utilizing all of the fans, rather than having my only way of modulating airflow being on or off with the individual fans. I'm going to look at this a bit more and think about what I'd want to do. This is also how those fans were intended to be operated from the factory, so I think it would be easier on the motors and result in more longevity.

Was kind of my thought as well when I mentioned trying to run a 2-relay system, instead of potentially having 1/4 of the radiator being cooled in low demand situations. However, having a variable controller is better and being able to have the fans all controlled by one module is ideal.
 
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Was kind of my thought as well when I mentioned trying to run a 2-relay system, instead of potentially having 1/4 of the radiator being cooled in low demand situations. However, having a variable controller is better and being able to have the fans all controlled by one module is ideal.

If I go with that route, the real question is whether I can get away with 2 modules or need 4. It looks like each module is designed for 2 fans, but I'm not sure how many amps it's rated for and on what duty cycle. My fans are going to draw on the order of 20-25A at max power, and if I'm doing a long hill climb, it's likely those may be at a continuous duty cycle for 30 minutes at a time. If each controller is rated for 50A, it's probably fine, but maybe a bit marginal.
 
If I go with that route, the real question is whether I can get away with 2 modules or need 4. It looks like each module is designed for 2 fans, but I'm not sure how many amps it's rated for and on what duty cycle. My fans are going to draw on the order of 20-25A at max power, and if I'm doing a long hill climb, it's likely those may be at a continuous duty cycle for 30 minutes at a time. If each controller is rated for 50A, it's probably fine, but maybe a bit marginal.

Right. Most e-fan setups for smaller vehicles are 2-fan setups. There were a lot of guys who did the conversion on the F-150s from 04-08 when they had the electro-mechanical clutch fans and wanted to "free up some HP". I'd imagine you would be fine with 2 fans per controller since that's the factory setup on most modern cars, but they may have fans that draw a bit less on the amperage at full blast which might give them a buffer. Only one way to find out!
 
Right. Most e-fan setups for smaller vehicles are 2-fan setups. There were a lot of guys who did the conversion on the F-150s from 04-08 when they had the electro-mechanical clutch fans and wanted to "free up some HP". I'd imagine you would be fine with 2 fans per controller since that's the factory setup on most modern cars, but they may have fans that draw a bit less on the amperage at full blast which might give them a buffer. Only one way to find out!

With an electro-mechanical clutch there's less benefit to it, but yeah, same concept and basically what I'm doing.

I imagine I'll start off with two fans per controller, see if that works over the colder months since that's when I'll start off with it. Then I can "upgrade" from there if needed or desired.
 
I've been pretty busy and haven't posted much of a bus update, but there's been a lot going on both related to the electric fan conversion and otherwise.

One of the issues that I wanted to correct was the TV sound. Although the forward TV was a flat screen, it was an older one that wasn't a smart TV and the picture quality wasn't very good. The real issue, though, was that its speakers were on the bottom and would blast my head while driving down the road. We found an early black Friday deal while going through Walmart on a 4.1 wireless sound bar/surround system so we picked that up, found another early black Friday deal on a newer TV, and threw those in. The sound quality is much better, it's much better distributed, we now have smart TV functions, and best of all, it won't be blasting my head. All bonuses.

I got the old rear heater out of the bedroom and installed the new one, as well as the solenoid valve, and got it all wired up. For some reason it's only getting 6V when powered on, so I need to see if I can figure out what the issue there is. I recall it getting 12V before, or close to it. I need to investigate further and finish plumbing the coolant hoses, but that project is mostly done.

The water pump belt had gotten a bit loose so I tightened that up, and then while the front of the engine was exposed also found an original, very brittle hose that runs between the water pump and the air compressor. Got that pulled off and I'll get a new one made up to put in its place.

Since the mechanical fan is no longer going to need to be driven, I'm going to have to buy a shorter belt if I want to bypass the idler pulley and the fan hub pulley, which I do. Although I have an assortment of belts, none of them are quite the right size for that. Once I have that hose and that belt on, the front of the engine will be "done" and ready for things to go back in.

The block heater on this engine is dead, extremely corroded. It's not in a good location being right under the turbo. Originally I thought this was going to be awful to change, but it looks like it has a set screw to hold it in. I need a longer T25 than I have to attempt to unscrew it (and hopefully not strip the bolt...) but I'm hopeful that this won't be too bad and I'll be able to replace it. That's a feature that should be important to have for winter trips.

I haven't started working on the fan mounts yet, I figure I'm likely going to mock up a bit of it before the radiator goes back in, but I'm really going to have to set the exact height of the fans once the radiator is installed in the bus.
 
. . . The block heater on this engine is dead, extremely corroded. It's not in a good location being right under the turbo. Originally I thought this was going to be awful to change, but it looks like it has a set screw to hold it in. I need a longer T25 than I have to attempt to unscrew it (and hopefully not strip the bolt...) but I'm hopeful that this won't be too bad and I'll be able to replace it. That's a feature that should be important to have for winter trips.

I have a set of Capri Torx sockets that were pretty reasonable in cost and have both the standard and tamper proof-torx versions as well as external-torx. Worth the price for sure if you don't have a set.

https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-...Capri+Tools+torx+socket&qid=1637188549&sr=8-7
 
I have a set of Capri Torx sockets that were pretty reasonable in cost and have both the standard and tamper proof-torx versions as well as external-torx. Worth the price for sure if you don't have a set.

https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-...Capri+Tools+torx+socket&qid=1637188549&sr=8-7

I have that exact set (or close to it) that I bought some years ago. In this case the issue is that the plug for the block heater is close enough to the screw that even those 1/4” drive T25s aren’t seating well. I also can’t see too well what’s going on, so I may just need to look at it further.
 
Video on the radiator/intercooler removal for those interested:

 
Yesterday I finally got the radiator and intercooler dropped off at the radiator shop to get checked out. Not surprisingly, both are in pretty rough shape. They said that the radiator's primary issue was that the fins were starting to corrode. They had a new core in stock and the pricing was reasonable, so I decided to just go with that. The intercooler (or "charge air cooler") is leaking where the core rows attach to the ends, and they said was still technically within spec but barely. They're working on options for replacements on that, but it looks like I'll be putting in new for both.

Once I get the radiator back, the real next step is going to be starting work on getting the electric fan setup together, although I also have the oil pan gasket to change, etc. etc...
 
Managed to get some more progress done on the bus. I installed some stick-on heaters for the water tanks (fresh, grey, and black) along with the required wiring. They'll turn the heaters on at 45 and off at 65 (or so) to hopefully keep the water from freezing in the tanks.

I also pulled the oil pan to replace the gasket and fix the leaking oil pan. When I put the oil pan back on after changing out the bearings and oil pump, the Cat dealer had told me that the recommendation for my engine these days was to just use silicone. I thought I'd gone with that, but upon removing the oil pan I found that I'd actually reused the factory gasket which was in good shape but was very thin. Also I found that one of the oil pan bolts (it has something like 30-40 of them) was stripped, and at a corner. So, that could've explained the leak I was seeing. When I unbolted the pan it basically just fell right off, no need to tape it with a hammer or anything like you normally do.

Upon doing some more digging, the later engines (C7s, I think) used a much newer, better gasket design and so I bought one of those from the dealer and will be putting that in after I helicoil the bad hole.

upload_2021-12-3_7-43-38.png

I also diagnosed and fixed a power issue going to the heater in the bedroom. I'd already replaced the old one (which had corrosion, was seeping coolant, and the fan was dead) with a new one and also added in a solenoid valve so that it would only flow coolant when turned on. However it was only getting 6V when powered on. Turned out that for some reason the RV manufacturers had put a non-weather-tight connector for this in the engine bay area, and the connections had basically just corroded off. I have a feeling as this thing ages I'm going to be dealing with more of those, but since Cat, Allison, and Freightliner seemed to understand what rain and dirt are, hopefully less with those.

New coolant hoses for the bedroom heater are in place, but I need to connect them and then tighten everything down for that, but that's more or less done.

My radiator is ready for pickup, so I'll be going to get that at some point today. Hopefully the intercooler will have come in but if not, no big deal. Sunday will be my wrenching day, and my big goal is to get the fan mounts fabricated and button up the rest of the open items. The radiator I need help to get back in the bus (thing weighs about 100 lbs) so I may or may not actually get that in on Sunday. But once it's in, the rest of the hook-up really isn't too bad.

The last item I haven't yet taken apart on this is the block heater The thing was corroded badly enough that the power cable fell off, so I need to replace it. However while the mounting screw that holds it in place came loose easily enough (much to my surprise), the heater element itself is seized in pretty well. So, that's going to take some more effort to get out. I can't say I'm surprised, but I do want to get that fixed while I have the cooling system opened up.

My friend who's going to machine the oil filter sandwich adapter so I can add an external cooler has the drawing done up for it, and is going to hopefully have that machined up in time for me to add it in. I found a good price on a Setrab oil cooler with -16 fittings and integrated fan, so I got that coming. I'll have to figure out where to put that, but it shouldn't be too difficult to find a spot.

I've been thinking more about the temperature modulation strategy I want to do for oil and coolant. To start, I'm going to plan to use the Arduino Uno variable speed temperature control that I linked before. But I think that once I confirm that the system in general works, I may try to tweak it to work with a PID loop of some sort rather than just a straight PWM vs. temperature. It looks like others have programmed PID loops in to Arduinos, so I think it should be doable to steal some of that tech once I verify the overall functionality.

But the oil cooler represents some more questions about what I can do and want to do. I think to start out I'll just do a normal thermostatic switch, probably do 195F on/180F off (might do 200/185 or 205/190... I'll think a little more). Longer term, though, I could also try to target a desired oil temp through the Arduino and adding in a full temperature sensor, and could then even add in functionality to automatically have the oil cooler on full blast if the coolant gets above a particular temp. This seems intriguing and desirable for the longer hill climbs where you're working the engine harder for longer periods, and trying to keep your fluids as cool as possible is nice. I could also manually throw in a "Max Cool" switch that just turns all the coolers on, and there are some benefits to that idea just for cooling things off before shutdown as well. Those are tweaks that can come later after I've proven out the concept.
 
upload_2021-12-3_18-36-53.jpeg

My friend who’s machining the sandwich adapter for the oil filter so I can run an oil cooler sent me this in work picture. Excited!
 
I ended up ordering a 200F on / 185F off thermostatic switch for the oil cooler. I figured a couple of things with this. First off, that lets the oil get hot enough that water should boil out of it. Also under normal operating conditions (i.e. not climbing a mountain or on a really hot summer day) the factory oil cooler should keep the temps within that range anyway, and if the engine is hot enough that I'd want to be keeping the oil cooler fan running for extra cooling, it will probably already have the oil that hot anyway. This will work for version 1 anyway, assuming my friend has the machining done and I can get everything else installed in time (which it looks like I should be able to).
 
I spent some time taking a look at the code and values I'm going to use for my code to modulate the fan speed for coolant temperature. As I'd posted previously, I'm starting with the example that someone posted in this thread:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-i...-speed-pwm-fan-control-under-25-less-diy.html

I'm going to need to look through to make sure that the pin format works the same for the Arduino Uno vs. the Nano that the person used in this example. But that one is pretty minor. I've gone through and made a few edits to his code:

1) I changed the R0 (which I understand to be resistance at 25C) and Beta (a value for the logarithmic curve that a thermistor sensor uses) for the Ford sensor. I based this on this chart I found for the Ford coolant temp sensor, although I will want to do some extra checks on the sensor I'm using:

full


2) The Arduino Uno has an LED built-in that you can command to turn on and off. So I edited the code to have the light on if the PWM output has the fans at max, off if they're off, and then flashing if the computer is modulating. I put this on 250 ms on, 250 ms off, but could extend it if I wanted. Ultimately once I have the system working and calibrated, this isn't likely to get touched or needed much, but I figure it's good to have anyway. The board won't be mounted in a super accessible location but it will be inside the RV where it's weather and environmentally protected (at least so goes the theory).

The one thing I don't like about the code is that it is a fairly dumb temperature-based ramp-up. This will probably work well enough, but the reality is I'd like to aim to keep the temperature of the engine around 200F. As this is written, the only way I can vary the fan speed for 200F is to vary the two temperature values. And in the winter the fan speed required for 200F would be different than it would be in the summer under the same conditions. It would be preferable to put a PID loop in place that could modulate the fans more appropriately. I've found a couple of examples of PID loops for Arduino code, but I'm not sure I understand the code well enough at this point to want to throw them in. I may try making an alternate program and I could try loading them both to see what works if I can find some PID code that I understand well enough to attempt to implement.

For those interested, here's my code, first the screen shots that are easier to read through and then the text below them:

Screen Shot 2021-12-04 at 9.10.20 PM.png

Screen Shot 2021-12-04 at 9.10.28 PM.png

Screen Shot 2021-12-04 at 9.10.37 PM.png

// PWM Fan Controller for Ted doing Ted things
// Version 1, in progress
// R0 and Beta for Ford coolant temp sensor. R0 = resistance @ 25C

/*----------------------- User adjustable variables and preferences section ---------------------------------*/
float tempForFanStartup = 195.0; // target low temp. below this temperature, the fan will be off
float tempForFanOnFull = 210.0; // target High temp. above this temperature, the fan will be on at full power
// adjust these two to get the desired range. for example for a transmission, maybe 140 to 160

float R0 = 30000; // The base resistance of the coolant temp sensor used
float Beta = 4069; // The Beta of the sensor used

float voltsForFanStartup = 1.2; // Roughly the signal voltage that triggers the mazda module's slowest speed.
// A higher voltage here will effectively increase the fans lowest speed target.
/*----------------------- end of User adjustable variables and preferences -----------------------------------*/

const int fanPwmOutPin = 6; // Arduino forces this pin to 0 or 5 volts.
const int tempSensorPin = A0; // Pin to read analog voltage from the temp sensor.
int pwmDuty; // The calculated PWM duty is stored here
float pwmMinStartupDuty; // the starting duty is stored here (mazda module starts fans at about 24 % duty)
float currTemperature; // the temperature in F is stored here


void setup() { /* ++++++++++++++++++ Setup is run once when the arduino boots ++++++++++++++++++++++++++*/
Serial.begin(115200); // set up serial port for 115200 baud (optional)

analogReference (EXTERNAL) ; // note, this is using the 3.3 volt supply as the analog reference.
analogRead (tempSensorPin) ; // a couple of reads to give the A/D time to adjust
analogRead (tempSensorPin) ; // a couple of reads to give the A/D time to adjust
analogWrite(fanPwmOutPin, 0); // turn the fan off at start
pinMode(LED_BUILTIN, OUTPUT); // Going to use the built-in LED for status
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH); // Makes the LED flash for half a second to show this function works
delay(500); // Will likely comment out LED code after initial diagnostic tests
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN,LOW);

pwmMinStartupDuty = (voltsForFanStartup / 5.0) * 255.0; // convert the Mazda starting voltage to a PWM duty
} // end setup


void loop() { /* ++++++++++++++++++ Main Loop, continuously loops forever ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++*/

readAndTranslateTempSensor();

calculate_and_send_PWM();

//print_to_serial_port(); // un-comment this line for testing and calibration to the laptop.

} // end main loop


void calculate_and_send_PWM() { /* ++++++++ subroutine to calculate and set PWM duty cycle ++++++++++++++*/

if (currTemperature < tempForFanStartup) { // If the temperature is below the lowest setpoint, turn fan off
analogWrite(fanPwmOutPin, 0); // PWM duty = 0 percent
pwmDuty = 0;
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN,LOW); // If fans are off, LED is off
return;
}

if (currTemperature > tempForFanOnFull) { // If the temperature is above the highest setpoint, turn fan on full
analogWrite(fanPwmOutPin, 255); // PWM duty = 100 percent
pwmDuty = 255;
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN,HIGH); // If fans are on full, LED is on
return;
}

float tempRange = tempForFanOnFull - tempForFanStartup ; // start calculating duty cycle
float pwmRange = 255.0 - pwmMinStartupDuty ;
float pwmDutyPct = (currTemperature - tempForFanStartup) / tempRange ;

pwmDuty = (int) (pwmMinStartupDuty + (pwmDutyPct * pwmRange) + .5); // actual PWM duty is calculated here

if (pwmDuty > 255) { // make sure duty ended up between 255 and 0
pwmDuty = 255;
}
if (pwmDuty < 0) {
pwmDuty = 0;
}

analogWrite(fanPwmOutPin, pwmDuty); // write PWM duty to PWM output pin
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, HIGH); // If the fan speed is being modulated by PWM, the LED will flash
delay(250);
digitalWrite(LED_BUILTIN, LOW);
delay(250);

} // end calculate_and_send_PWM


void readAndTranslateTempSensor() { /* ++++++ subroutine to read and translate temp sensor to temp F +++++++++++++*/

int tmp = analogRead(tempSensorPin);
float r = ((1023.0 * R0) / (float)tmp) - R0;
currTemperature = Beta / log(r / 0.09919) - 273.15; // for a 10K thermister with a beta of 3435
currTemperature = (9.0 / 5.0) * currTemperature + 32; // convert to Fahrenheit

} // end readAndTranslateTempSensor


void print_to_serial_port() { /* ++++++++++ optional prints values to laptop usb port for debugging and calibration ++*/
Serial.print(F("currTemperature F: ")); Serial.print(currTemperature);
Serial.print(F(" pwmDuty: ")); Serial.println(pwmDuty);
}
 
Also, I put the cooling fans in front of the radiator. They fit quite well.

get_hangouts_attachment_url
 
I am sure you will have covered this however I notice that it would seem a good idea to make sure that the engine water thermostat is fully open before you start hammering the fans.
 
I am sure you will have covered this however I notice that it would seem a good idea to make sure that the engine water thermostat is fully open before you start hammering the fans.

Yes, this is one thing I've been considering. In my driving I have absolutely observed that there are periods where the higher flow of a particular temperature was simply needed for cooling, more than the airflow itself. The thermostats are 190F, and supposedly don't fully open until 210F. 200F is the optimal engine temperature from what I understand per Cat. And also there are supposedly 180F thermostats out there (which are fully open at 200F) but the 190F ones are the standard.

In an ideal world/program, the fans wouldn't turn on at all until 200F and would work to keep that temp up to let's say 50% duty cycle, and would then ramp up from 200 to 210. The code is certainly possible. But I'll see what it does.
 
I didn't get as much done on the bus today as I would've liked to, but that's how it goes sometimes. I did still make good progress.

The first order of business was working on the fan shroud mounting. After doing some more careful measurements, I figured that the fans were going to require to have the bottom of the shrouds lined up with the bottom of the radiator, and then have some overhang up top. My hope was to split the overhangs evenly on top and bottom, but upon looking further at the radiator mounting location and the amount of space I had to work with behind the radiators (which for as huge as this thing is, is not that much) I decided I needed to keep the fans as close to the radiator as I could, which required them sticking out only on the top.

I got the sides and bottom welded together, followed by cutting and tack welding the top. Then I ran out of welding gas. It didn't matter, though, because I was still going to have to quit there. I'm going to need some metal to cover up the top so the fans don't try to just suck raw air and force them to suck from the radiator, and I didn't have an appropriate piece handy so I'll need to go grab one. I have the basics of it down, though, which is what matters.

I'm going to have to move the overflow tank slightly because of the position the fans have to be in. This really isn't too big of a deal, just a bit annoying. But it will be fine. There is plenty of room to move it, and I'll figure that out once it's in.

The other big frustration was working on the oil pan. The timing cover for this (which the forward bolts torque into) is aluminum. One of the bolts stripped. So I helicoiled it, started torquing it to spec and... the next one stripped. So I have the oil pan back off and I'm just going to helicoil all 6 bolt holes that go into the timing cover and hopefully be done with it. The iron block isn't having this issue, of course. But I am pretty convinced that the timing cover to oil pan seam is where the oil leak had been coming from, and would explain the mess well.

Not as productive as hoped, but still moving in the right direction. I haven't yet bought relays and fuse/fuses for this setup, so I should probably get those coming.
 
Oh, and here's the setup. For reference, each fan is 16" diameter:

upload_2021-12-5_20-38-25.png
 
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