Thinking About a Boat

Henning said:
What is your prop pitch? What does the boat weigh, (run the rig across a set of scales, launch the boat and reweigh). First thing I would suspect if you have an issue making power like that is you have a problem with your reed valves.
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My experience with older Johnson outboards is that reed valve problems don't come and go like this. It's easy enough to check, run it with the air silencer box off when it only goes 5 mph, if being caused by reeds you will see fuel being spit back out the throat of the carb on the offending cylinder.
 
Ex father in law had a skeeter with the tall six pack Merc that was a hard starting POS if you ask me ...

But it ran like a spotted ass ape when it ran ..

I 'r' no boat expert. Spare the beatings please ... :goofy:
 
Thanks guys, I'll give that stuff a shot, probably will have to wait for spring though as I need to do the condition inspection on the Flybaby, fix the snow blower, and replace the timing belt on the Accord.
 
I'll need to take it apart and clean it some - I appreciate the thoughts.

Today we took the boat out, probably put 2 hours on the hobbs, which is the most time we've put on it since purchase. Kiddo fell asleep and the engine running seemed to help keep him out, so we just motored around and explored the lake some more. At 17 miles long, lots of area to explore.

Also banged the prop up a bit. Took a couple of small chunks out of it. Oops - the previous owner had good advice about not putting on the new prop that was included with it until after banging the old one up. :)

I'll be very surprised if we get another time out this season. Next weekend we're out of town, and then it's getting into October. So, it will probably be time to winterize it soon.

I also got my "Trailer Valet" that I'd mentioned and put it to use today. I'd say it does so-so. Between the tandem axle trailer and the fact that I don't have level ground, the unit has limited capability with actually moving the trailer. However, it does seem to do a good job of backing it into the far corner better than I can do with the truck. Overall, I think it was worthwhile given what we need it for, but if we had a more straightforward parking area for the trailer, I wouldn't buy it and don't think it would be useful.
 
jesse said:
Thanks guys, I'll give that stuff a shot, probably will have to wait for spring though as I need to do the condition inspection on the Flybaby, fix the snow blower, and replace the timing belt on the Accord.
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2-smoke? Are the plugs loading up?
 
All you guys running 2 strokes, use this oil. It is a game changer. No more fouled plugs, no more smoke screen behind you and no more people pointing fingers at you and shaking their heads.

hpm-2stroke-large.jpg


It does cost more and it is likely not in your local store, but once you use it, you will seek it out and pay the extra. It will make your life on the water so much better and you engine will thank you too.
 
I had to share....

I skipped getting a 172 for this because I thought that the family would have more fun. I think the plane would have been cheaper and require less work. ;)

More boat photos and info

Click the link for more photos.

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sferguson524 said:
Yep, that's about right. It's a hole in the water, surrounded by wood, metal or fiberglass, into which one constantly shovels money
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Boat, plane, pool, foreign car...
 
Which brings us full circle to if it flies, floats or f!cks it's cheaper to rent.
 
I need to buy a new cover. I'm thinking of buying a "semi-custom" cover. On iBoats, it's got different lengths recommended for my 23' cuddy boat. It says to add items like the diving/ski board (whatever you want to call it) to the length. However, by rear board (2' long) is more than halfway down. I can't imagine a cover would actually get covered up.

Thoughts?
 
red4golf said:
I had to share....

I skipped getting a 172 for this because I thought that the family would have more fun. I think the plane would have been cheaper and require less work. ;)

More boat photos and info

Click the link for more photos.

7260ce675a130b4e1284525403.jpg
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Nice, looks wood, if you have it in fresh water, keep rock salt in the bilge to keep it from rotting, and give the top sides and decks a good salt water bath several times a year. Rot only grows in wood boats in areas where fresh water stands.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
I need to buy a new cover. I'm thinking of buying a "semi-custom" cover. On iBoats, it's got different lengths recommended for my 23' cuddy boat. It says to add items like the diving/ski board (whatever you want to call it) to the length. However, by rear board (2' long) is more than halfway down. I can't imagine a cover would actually get covered up.

Thoughts?
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Swim steps are rarely covered by a boat cover. Just get it so it will drape over the rub rail around the boat. If it doesn't get all the way down to the rub rail is some places you'll need to tie it down in that area so it doesn't flap.

Also for areas which get significant snow if you have it out all year, you should get a tent pole for the middle so it has a slope down to the sides of the boat. When you put the cover on, put the tent pole right in the middle of the cockpit and raise the pole so it causes the cover to tip up from all sides. The snow will still collect on the cover, but you can usually go out and brush it off with a push broom. Areas which get a whole lot of snow usually make a V tent out of plywood longitudinally and then put the cover over that. Takes 2 4x8' sheets of plywood, and 2x4 for the middle and two uprights to hold it in shape.
 
Ok, that's what I thought. Thanks.

Should I bother separately ordering a strap kit or just buy straps myself?
 
I buy a small roll of rope and a can of plastidip and make custom lanyards for the tie downs. Every boat trailer combo is different, so I guess - I don't know.
 
red4golf said:
It is all wood and I'm just now starting a much needed sanding and staining project.
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For stripping use a heat gun and a draw scraper. Sanding to wood always leaves it unfair. Keep a fine file with you to keep your scraper sharp. I usually have a 2-1/2", a 3/4" and a few detail pics and implements that I've made through time. Heat gun and a scraper to remove, then an easy sanding with long blocks with 2" adhesive paper smoothing it down to 120 grit.

Bright work that lasts a decade: base 3 coats of a clear "3 pack" poly type like Awl Grip (Do NOT use Awl Bright, it does not last) or Alexseal (my preferred, same guys who developed Awl Grip, it's their next Gen material, you can also use a very low viscosity clear epoxy, one that saturates, not coats. You could consider using GitRot if you have any black issues at the seams and joints, it's a nice low viscosity epoxy with a bio/fungicide in it.) Then I use 12+ coats of Epifanes old original original varnish (just did a project where I tried the new Epifanes + and Epifanes Poly products and was not impressed.). I will lay on a minimum of 8 coats before I touch it with sand paper. Varnish is self leveling so any error you make in one coat will be remediated some in the next. The object is to build as thick a layer as possible for UV protection, and the UV inhibitors break down. If you get too thick in a spot and it gators, or gets a sag, bake it with a hair dryer, let it sit a bit, the longer the better, but at least until it cools, and then use your draw scraper to scrape it down to level with the surroundings; Do NOT sand defects, it causes a 'ripple' in the finish, plus takes more work and drying time, or you go back down to the sealer. Remember to keep the scraper as sharp as possible by giving it a good sharpening on a stone regularly and dress with a fine file very frequently.

The first sanding I do at 8 coats with 220 and I take it down to where 2/3rds of the surface is sanded with the rest shiny dots evenly interspersed. Put another 2 coats on and take it to 90% sanded with 220 (always use the longest block that you can work a surface with practically).put on another 2 and 220 it just shy of 100%.

Now I topcoat and seal all the edges of that again with at least 3 coats of the clear 3 pack and that leaves me a hard shell, glass smooth finish that seals the varnish from oxidation and has a very dense filler in the pores of the wood giving not only a good bite for the finish, but also providing density and damage resistance to the top of the wood. You will have a very beautiful, very durable finish that with regular applications of Collenite 845 Insulator wax, will remain so for over a decade.
 
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Ted DuPuis said:
Ok, that's what I thought. Thanks.

Should I bother separately ordering a strap kit or just buy straps myself?
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They make portable car ports with metal arches. These are way better than covers for storage especially for someone that likes to work on their stuff.
 
Henning said:
They make portable car ports with metal arches. These are way better than covers for storage especially for someone that likes to work on their stuff.
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No room for such a thing where he's putting it.
 
Henning said:
:confused: Ok, but unless overhead is the issue, they only add a couple of inches if you get the right size.
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Maybe but I think you'd need more then that. If you only had a few inches of clearance it'd be extremely difficult to get the trailer into position consistently.

Since he doesn't like his pool, I think he should just build a garage where the pool is and park it there :)
 
jesse said:
Maybe but I think you'd need more then that. If you only had a few inches of clearance it'd be extremely difficult to get the trailer into position consistently.

Since he doesn't like his pool, I think he should just build a garage where the pool is and park it there :)
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No, you put it up over the boat/trailer after you park it. There are ones that break down neatly enough to pack with you.

A garage over the pool would give you a heck of a nice work pit....
 
Most city and many community ordinances prohibit those metal car covers in front or on the side of the house. Once you get out into the country, the zones and codes are more liberal but I know in a lot of places those pitched metal covers are not allowed. They do look like crap, so it's one ordinance that I'm not really against. I built a nice looking carport, with an extra high roof on part of it to accommodate my boat which is 12'-7" tall on the trailer.
 
I'm not really interested in the portable carport idea. If I built an enclosure or cover for the boat, I'd make sure it matched the house. The pool area would be hard to do that with, but I could always go with the side of the house. Jesse's seen it. As he said, a carport (portable or otherwise) would be very hard to do in the parking area.
 
Besides, I'll end up buying a 35' boat next year. :D
 
Ted DuPuis said:
Besides, I'll end up buying a 35' boat next year. :D
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Winner winner, rice dinner.

(gotta pay for the boat, the slip, the maint, the gas, the toys, etc) :D

My first boat was a 14' Hobie in Sandy eggo. Biggest so far is a 29' Bayliner. After that, trailering gets -- complicated. I was looking at a 34' CPMY over in lake Powell UT for a while, then I started thinking about the logistics of owning and hauling, and fueling it and threw in the towel. Back to a 26' for the three of us and a dog. If it don't fit on this boat, it ain't going.
 
docmirror said:
Winner winner, rice dinner.

(gotta pay for the boat, the slip, the maint, the gas, the toys, etc) :D

My first boat was a 14' Hobie in Sandy eggo. Biggest so far is a 29' Bayliner. After that, trailering gets -- complicated. I was looking at a 34' CPMY over in lake Powell UT for a while, then I started thinking about the logistics of owning and hauling, and fueling it and threw in the towel. Back to a 26' for the three of us and a dog. If it don't fit on this boat, it ain't going.
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Those are exactly the sort of reasons why we'll stick with this boat (forget about the purchase cost).

Actually we really like our boat at 23' with the cuddy cabin. It's the right size for many reasons. I was just joking around. But it is fun to look and dream, just like it's fun to browse Controller. :)
 
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