It's funny how few people understand rope and knots. One of the best examples is going to the lake and tying up with a group of other boaters. I have a 28' bowrider, it's a pretty big boat weighing in at 6,500 lbs or so. Anchoring it is easy when one knows how, and most boaters don't have any idea how to do it. Even the simplest task, tying off to a cleat, is beyond the skills of most boaters.
I have a medium sized Danforth style anchor, it's aluminum alloy made by Fortress. It works well in the sandy bottom lakes in this area. It's attached to a 10' 5/16" chain and a 150' 1/2" diameter 3 strand nylon anchor rode. The rode has a preformed eye, the chain and tackle is hot dip galvanized steel.
If you ask twenty boaters what the term 'scope' means with regards to anchoring, nineteen of them will respond with a blank look. It's the single most important factor in safely anchoring a boat.
Normal conditions call for a 5:1 scope setting, that is deploying a rode that is five times the water depth under the keel. Anchoring in 25' of water calls for 125 feet of lateral length. If there is wind and rough water, a 7:1 scope is needed.
Sometimes I drop a 20 lb mushroom anchor off the stern to minimize swing if the wind is changing direction intermittently.
It's amusing to see a guy with a 6 lb. Danforth from WalMart tied to 25' of frayed and twisted ski rope trying to make it hold. They drop it straight down till it hits the bottom then tie it off, and every five minutes it pulls out and the process is repeated.
It's not the weight of the anchor which provides the set, it's a combination of proper tackle and sufficient scope working together. Knowing this is important, and it could mean the difference between safely riding out a blow or ending up on the rocks.
People that go boating with us give me a funny look when I pay out over 100' of line, but I'm usually the only guy that doesn't have to reset the anchor at some point during an afternoon.