Proper way to connect these back together?

dmspilot

dmspilot

Final Approach
Joined
Oct 20, 2006
Messages
6,169
Display Name
Display name:
DISPLAY NAME
Attempting to add a vintage glideslope receiver to my vintage avionics package. Can these wires just be spliced back together and is there a particular technique that has to be followed?

IMG_20180510_141430354.jpg
 
You could splice them. But, the preferred method would be to de-pin the connectors, locate new connector pins, the tool to crimp them with, and use good quality aircraft wire to re-wire it. What kind of glide slope receiver is it and what kind of navigation display is it going to?
 
Never solder wires used in aviation. You will experience losses in each connection (a spice counts as two connections) which may impact your performance. Do what Wilkersk said, it will probably be best to find a home builder since they probably have all the tools.
 
wilkersk said:
You could splice them. But, the preferred method would be to de-pin the connectors, locate new connector pins, the tool to crimp them with, and use good quality aircraft wire to re-wire it. What kind of glide slope receiver is it and what kind of navigation display is it going to?
Click to expand...

Vintage ARC.

I guess I should have tried harder to win a recent auction in which the seller was selling everything still connected.
 
cgrab said:
Never solder wires used in aviation. You will experience losses in each connection (a spice counts as two connections) which may impact your performance. Do what Wilkersk said, it will probably be best to find a home builder since they probably have all the tools.
Click to expand...

There's nothing wrong with a solder splice, done properly. NASA published a circular on how to do all manner of connections, solder splice included. In this instance though, with the number of splices, re-pinning a new harness would probably be faster anyway. You can find crimp tools and such on eBay for pretty cheap if you look hard enough. Mouser.com is a good source for pins an sockets.
 
wilkersk said:
You could splice them. But, the preferred method would be to de-pin the connectors, locate new connector pins, the tool to crimp them with, and use good quality aircraft wire to re-wire it. What kind of glide slope receiver is it and what kind of navigation display is it going to?
Click to expand...

Do them one at a time. Test the continuity of each wire as you do it.

If you solder then you've added another point of failure. Pay close attention to that phrase "properly done". If you don't know every component of "properly" then don't attempt it.
 
kgruber said:
In that case........................don't spend good time and money after bad.
Click to expand...

I've done a cost analysis of all of the options already. Either I'm doing it this way or not at all.
 
kgruber said:
In that case........................don't spend good time and money after bad.
Click to expand...
May not be state of the art now, But I'll bet you've got a hell of a lot of time behind ARC equipment.
 
There is a such thing as a bad crimp. Crimping small gauge wire with a cheap crimp tool is not a good option. The wire will fall out.
 
redoing it is the best method. you could also put a male db on one side and a female db on the other.

bob
 
Tom-D said:
most likely the most expensive way to do this job.
I'd buy 2 new connectors and some wire, Use what ya got as a pattern.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure it's more expensive. Anything I can do myself will be time I don't have to pay somebody else for.

Connectors are not a problem, but I'm not sure what contacts to use.
The plastic connector shell going to the NAV/COM is an AMP 200512-2 and the one going to the glideslope is a Winchester MRAC-26S.
 
unsafervguy said:
you could also put a male db on one side and a female db on the other.
Click to expand...

Well, I would need two sets, as the existing wire isn't long enough. But I kind of like this idea. Can you recommend a specific db connector?

If whatever I come up with doesn't work it can always be re-done. Wire, pins, solder, etc. are cheap compared to paying $90/hr to an avionics shop which would rather do ADS-B and G5 installs anyway. I already pored through the wiring diagrams and install manuals and know what needs to go where, it's just a matter of physically accomplishing it.
 
FA5K18DGUEN7O60.LARGE.jpg
FAOTGY6I9E1E6UW.LARGE.jpg
 
dmspilot said:
I'm not sure it's more expensive. Anything I can do myself will be time I don't have to pay somebody else for.

Connectors are not a problem, but I'm not sure what contacts to use.
The plastic connector shell going to the NAV/COM is an AMP 200512-2 and the one going to the glideslope is a Winchester MRAC-26S.
Click to expand...

Winchester otherwise known as Positronics. I think I got my last one from lanepilot.com for a KI204. You need an circular indent crimper to crimp the contacts for that one. I'm not sure what replacement contacts cost but I'd guess over $1 each
 
dmspilot said:
I'm not sure it's more expensive. Anything I can do myself will be time I don't have to pay somebody else for.

Connectors are not a problem, but I'm not sure what contacts to use.
The plastic connector shell going to the NAV/COM is an AMP 200512-2 and the one going to the glideslope is a Winchester MRAC-26S.
Click to expand...
The cheapest of those splices is $.855 cents each.
New wire and connectors will be a much better fix and probably not much more cash.
 
For the past fifty-five years I've successfully used the Western Union/Lineman splice which NASA deems acceptable (NASA-STD-8739.4A [19.7]). It is a soldered splice covered by shrink tubing. In a multiconductor cable like the OP's, the splices should be staggered to minimize the increase in the profile of the bundled harness.

https://elibrary.gsfc.nasa.gov/_assets/doclibBidder/tech_docs/NASA-STD-8739-4A.pdf

https://www.botshop.co.za/joining-wires-the-nasa-way/

Developed during the heydey of the telegraph, the Lineman’s splice is designed for joining wires that will be under tension. It is commonly claimed that, properly made, a Lineman’s splice is stronger than the wires of which it is composed. In any case, it is a time-proven method, and, coolest of all, one of NASA’s Required Workmanship Standards. To wit, in a NASA-approved Lineman’s splice:
  1. The conductors shall be pre-tinned.
  2. There shall be at least 3 turns around each conductor and the wraps shall be tight with no gaps between adjacent turns.
  3. The wraps shall not overlap and the ends of the wrap shall be trimmed flush prior to soldering to prevent protruding ends.
  4. Conductors shall not overlap the insulation of the other wire.
Though the Lineman’s splice was originally used without solder, today soldering is common. And NASA insists on it:
  1. Solder shall wet all elements of the connection.
  2. The solder shall fillet between connection elements over the complete periphery
    of the connection.
Click to expand...
https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2 books/links/sections/407 Splices.html
 
I might solder them but depends on how corroded the wire is.
 
dmspilot said:
Well, I would need two sets, as the existing wire isn't long enough. But I kind of like this idea. Can you recommend a specific db connector?

If whatever I come up with doesn't work it can always be re-done. Wire, pins, solder, etc. are cheap compared to paying $90/hr to an avionics shop which would rather do ADS-B and G5 installs anyway. I already pored through the wiring diagrams and install manuals and know what needs to go where, it's just a matter of physically accomplishing it.
Click to expand...

these from steinair he has the shells, pins, crimpers at good prices.

https://www.steinair.com/product-category/connectors/page/10/

bob
 
I can see there is confusion about what is the best way for these wires and I am so glad for the chance to step in to offer my expertise. The ideal solution actually exists in the walls and panels of everyone's home! Please review these fine examples of quality workmanship using a device which is sadly often overlooked!

1.jpg 2.png
 
Checkout_my_Six said:
FA5K18DGUEN7O60.LARGE.jpg
FAOTGY6I9E1E6UW.LARGE.jpg
Click to expand...


Nuh uh. NASA would have you tin both stranded ends, and solder them together in a parallel joint, in your example, the mechanical twisting together of the strands weakens them and and makes them susceptible to vibration and breakage. If you need additional security, wind the parallel joint with a single strand, then solder.
 
That
JonH said:
There is a such thing as a bad crimp. Crimping small gauge wire with a cheap crimp tool is not a good option. The wire will fall out.
Click to expand...


That''s why ya give'er a good 14lb tug after you crimp...
 
Chip Sylverne said:
Nuh uh. NASA would have you tin both stranded ends, and solder them together in a parallel joint, in your example, the mechanical twisting together of the strands weakens them and and makes them susceptible to vibration and breakage. If you need additional security, wind the parallel joint with a single strand, then solder.
Click to expand...
ya but....that's not what Jerry show'd me. :D

plus the twisting gives it a mechanical lock....should the solder go soft. I'd never rely on the solder for a mechanical joint. An even better joint is to loop each wire back (5) then twist....and solder.

IMHO....NASA never impressed me....#6 is the weakest joint.

wp7ee1a963_06.png
 
Last edited:
These are my favorite. My crimper is a DMC tho not the Tyco one. Again, about $1 a splice. I'd solder them and see if things work.

If the original contacts are corroded at all there really isn't much point in trying to save them.


upload_2018-5-11_12-52-5.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top