Any rebushing oversize is sketchy and does not address the real problem. This is how it stacks up:
The upper green line is pointing at the worn bushing hole. That hose is in an aluminum casting, which rotates on the oleo barrel, and that barrel is mounted to the firewall via a couple of brackets. The lower green line is pointing at the steel lug that is welded to the oleo barrel, and it does not move.
The disassembled shimmy damper:
The upper green line points to the lugs on the side of the cylinder, and those are the lugs that straddle that aluminum lug with the bushing in it. The lower green line is pointing at the ends of the piston rod, and it connects to the non-moving steel lug on the oleo. So the cylinder itself moves, not the rod. Odd. And that cylinder, being mounted from its side instead of its end, bounces up and down all the time while taxiing, and rocks on that bushing and seriously wears the hole in the aluminum steering collar in an oval AND hourglass fashion. Shimmy just adds to the agony.
The AN3 bolts also wear, and so does the hole in the rod end and steel lug.
The nosewheel is mounted in the fork, which is held by the piston that goes into the oleo barrel. A dynamically-imbalanced nosewheel makes that fork twist left and right, which moves the torque links ("scissors") that are mounted on the fork and on the steering collar. The torque link bushings wear and so do the holes that the bolts mounting them go through.
One of the BIG problems is that mechanics don't get those two long bolts tight enough. They pass through aluminum lugs on the fork and steering collar, and through "spacers" that ride in the torque link bushings. Those spacers are made to fit precisely between those lugs, and tightening the bolts properly pulls the lugs in a tiny bit to clamp those spacers so they cannot move. Mechanics leave the bolts a little loose, so now the spacers move and chomp depressions in the lugs and now there's too much slop to get the lugs tightened against even new spacers. Tiny shims have to be made to fill those depressions. The moving spacers bang the bolts around, and they wear their holes in the aluminum castings, wallowing them out. Ugly.
This same phenomenon is also seen in the rudder and elevator hinges, where the same principle is used. A spacer in a bushing, with the bolt securing the spacer between the hinge lugs. The 180 and 185 stabilizer aft mountings also use this principle, and if those bolts are not properly torqued, the spacers move and the bolts wallow out the bolt holes in some VERY expensive structural parts in the tailcone. With the rudder and elevator hinges, it's the hinge lugs that get torn up.
The whole nosewheel shimmy damper design is inadequate to handle a dynamically imbalanced wheel, and that stuff all gets torn up. Replacing it just results in the same losses. Take the bearings out of that nosewheel and take it to a motorcycle shop that has a dynamic balancer. Spending the money in the right place prevents spending it in the wrong places.