On a car that's under warranty, I make sure to meet or exceed the manufacturer's recommendations as a starting point.
My 2016 Kia Soul specifies oil changes every 7500 miles or 1 year, but I change it every six months. That comes out to between 5,500 - 6,500 miles. It's easier that way because it avoids having an oil change come up in the dead of winter when it's below zero outside. I also do whatever other scheduled maintenance is coming up, and service all of my seasonal power equipment, on the same days that I change the oil in the car.
I've been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for the past few years. The last time I checked it tested in the top three for all characteristics that matter for motor oils, and number one for about a third of them of them. Pennzoil also slaps a 500,000-mile warranty on the engine if you use Ultra exclusively. I know that's just a marketing tool; but for the small cost difference between Ultra and the other oils I like, I may as well take it.
The three tests that I care most about are the wear test (usually the four-ball wear test) because preventing wear is kind of the essence of what engine oil is for; the cold-cranking viscosity test because of where I live; and the NOACK volatility test because my car has a GDI engine. GDI engines are more prone to carbon buildup on the intake valves because there's no fuel wash effect. I figure a low NOACK score probably helps stave that off a bit by reducing the oil vapors in the PCV system. Penn Ultra scores well in all three tests (or at least it did the last time I checked).
Even as an admitted tribology geek, however, I think any of the top-shelf synthetics and most of the mid-range synthetics are excellent. For every characteristic there's a point beyond which the numbers are just numbers. I do enjoy the research, though; and the price difference between "excellent" and "superb" is trivial when it comes to motor oil.
I used to "demote" the used oil from the car to other power equipment, but nowadays I just schlep all the used oil from all the equipment to the county recycling center. I use full-synthetic in the car, but I prefer conventional / synthetic blends in the power equipment. Although Husqvarna approves of either, the full-synthetic seems to result in a lot of lifter noise in the power equipment.
The fact that I no longer demote the used oil is also another reason why I change the oil in all the equipment on the same days. By the time I'm done, I have enough waste oil to make it worth the trip to the recycling center. I used to just drop the oil off at one of the local garages, but they all burn it for heating fuel, and apparently the synthetic doesn't burn well. They still take it because they have to by law, but they're less-than-enthusiastic about it. (The county supposedly recycles it.)
I also keep a maintenance log that meets the diagnostic criteria for OCD. I make an entry pretty much any time I lift the hood or break out a wrench. The log and the scanned receipts help protect me for warranty purposes. They also makes the cars easier to sell or trade in when the time comes. The buyer / dealership manager may look at me like I'm a nut for logging things like "Removed a mouse nest from under the engine cover," but they also know that the car was well-maintained.
Rich