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I suggest an extra full cooler.

And then an extra full fridge when you get to the hangar.

But I'd suggest that anyway :D
 
What is its history?
Looks like cool rebuild project?
I couldn’t put it on a airframe without knowing what condition the inside is in.
 
Ought to bolt right on. Compared to what you just did, it'll be child's play. Just don't drop it on your toe. ;-)
 
aftCG said:
Don't you need two of them?
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It's a replacement. He has 2 new engines on it now, but one of them blew a cylinder at 50 hours. It is going back to the engine shop for warranty service. He bought this one so the aircraft is not grounded while he waits.
 
Do you have to do a “ Burp Run”?
 
There may be preservative oil in the engine that could migrate to

the cylinders and cause “ Liquid Lock”.

To avoid this a “ Burp Run“ is done.

Plugs below the 3 and 9 o’clock position are removed.

Either special “ plugs” or grounding ignition leads is done

to prevent external ignition.

The engine is the run briefly.

SMOKE!!!!

Got involved with P&W 1830, 2000 and 2800.

Not sure of others.

It is one of the more unusual tasks in a career.

Not the only one however!
 
They are the same as other engines. Only different!
 
“Trust in God and Pratt and Whitney”!
 
Before running a new old stock radial, one plug in each cylinder should be pulled, the engine should be pre oiled with a pressure pot, and the prop should be turned through by hand. Or without a pressure pot, turn through with starter till you get oil pressure. It's very important to get the old pickling oils out, and replaced with fresh oil to the main bearings, before putting any load to it. Crank it for a few minutes but don't overheat starter, then pull the screen and check for chunks, and sealing material.
 
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