No clue. In recent past you could buy new ones for less than fabricating them. However, you could also fabric new ones from a newer composite material as a minor. AC43.13-2A used to provide guidance by simply stating "wood or rubber" but that was revised out in -2B when the requirements changed to a positive battery hold-down system. But if you want to stick with wood I would go with any hardwood and paint them with an anti-acid paint.Anyone know what type of wood Cessna used to make the blocks for the battery box lid? Can’t seem to find them new anywhere.
Teak has a high degree of natural durability, is moderately hard and heavy with low stiffness and shock resistance but an excellent decay resistance and dimensional stability with a good acid resistance. Exterior and interior, indoor and outdoor furniture, ship decks.
It was either Preferred Airparts or Yingling about 10 years ago. But I have fabricated more similar type parts out of UHMW or some other type of polyethylene sheet material. Last forever.where did you find the ones you purchased?
Delrin. Run screws into it through the box's lid. It will be the screws that rot out.It was either Preferred Airparts or Yingling about 10 years ago. But I have fabricated more similar type parts out of UHMW or some other type of polyethylene sheet material. Last forever.
Oak. According to Jimmy, “Oak is nice”.
There is battery box paint for acid-proofing. It's basically tar. Resists acid, but solvents take it off.I could be wrong, but don't think most paint is all that resistant to battery acid compared to epoxy.
Yep. Hardwood. Doin alright"Got wood?"
Ha. No you're just late to the game. Was a time when A&Ps (A&Es) only worked with mostly wood and grade A cotton. Think of it as continuing the tradition.I’m now a carpenter instead of a mechanic!
Yep. Hardwood. Doin alright