[NA] Getting car running after sitting for years

Q: Know what you get when you add 1/2 tank of fresh fuel to a 1/2 tank of bad fuel?

A: 1 tank full of bad fuel

That’s assuming the fuel in the tank is bad. With newer fuel, I’d bet it isn’t great but not bad either.
 
That’s assuming the fuel in the tank is bad. With newer fuel, I’d bet it isn’t great but not bad either.
I dunno. 5 years is a long time for petrol. Not saying it won't fire off, just that it won't like it and probably have misfires galore. Lawnmower? Sure, go for it. Modern auto? I'd probably just pump it out.
 
I dunno. 5 years is a long time for petrol. Not saying it won't fire off, just that it won't like it and probably have misfires galore. Lawnmower? Sure, go for it. Modern auto? I'd probably just pump it out.
Like I said in my first post, I did the same within the last few months. I’ve done it a lot of times previously too. Will it be wonderful? No, but you honesty couldn’t even really tell much difference. This was in a tuned turbo car too.
 
Odd enough but perhaps related. Been working on my dad's '06 Z06 today. Last time he went to run it it was missing terribly. Changed a coil. After looking at all the stupid sensor stuff. Currently hoping for varnish in an injector after it's sat for the last year and a half after the great toilet flood. But based on smell I don't think it's a fuel issue...but the plug doesn't seem wet... Possibly intake manifold leak..

Compression check is next to rule out a valve spring..which apparently isn't uncommon with this 427 engine.
 
This thing has an old school ignition key rather than a start button?
Nah it's got a button. I only depressed the button for a couple seconds. I guess if it hasn't started and you let go it stops trying.
 
The new biodiesel sucks just as hard as the alcohol gas
In terms of shelf life? Good to know.

I can't pin point where I'd learned it, but I thought someone had told me that diesel was stable for years with even basic additives to preserve it. I have absolutely zero knowledge on the matter....
 
I had a hangar car sitting for 3 years. Main problem was that the tires remained bumpy even after driving it for a while. Eventually I replaced those. I didn't have to drain the fuel. Modern gas tanks with the evap control system are pretty much sealed, so the alcohol doesn't have a chance to take up water. When I had the mechanic do the brakes (bc they were worn), I had him flush the brake fluid. It was dark and had a high water content, but it probably had 7-8 years on it.

5 year old Camry is gonna need very little work.
 
This was a hilarious outcome, thought I'd post it. Since it's been a year I'll recap: I was offered an essentially brand new Camry that hasn't been turned on in 4 years. Parent got too old, lost their license and just left it as a paperweight in the garage. Then everyone here offered good suggestions about what's needed to get it running again.

But...

In typical family fashion no one could agree on the next best steps were last year, and my logic was unable to prevail. So the car sat for another year unused until we reconvened during this Thanksgiving week and again fought out the details.
During the peak of the argument there was a lot of "I think we should..." and "we should probably..." arguments being thrown around, but nothing really grounded in fact, evidence or automotive research of any kind.

So while everyone was debating in the other room about how to best get the car rolling again, and who should pay to get it moving, I quietly excused myself and drove to AutoZone to get another auto battery (b/c 1 year later of not running it needed another one). I went back, dropped in the new battery, cranked it for 4 seconds, and the car started right up.

Moral of the story: Toyotas are awesome. Family fights are pointless. Car is running again with fresh gas, but at the mechanic for a tune-up just b/c it's been for-god-damn-ever since it drove (and tires need replacing). It'll be in my garage next week :D
 
21 Years since it had tags on it. I bet its been sitting at least 20 years.

Engine oil looked fine, radiator was full of proper green coolant. The both passenger side tires were flat, driver front was low, and driver rear had a lot of air in it still.

Outside air temp was maybe 15 degrees F and it cranked slow as a bitter old man with a battery laying on the ground hooked to it via jumper cables. I figured there was no way there was enough voltage to fire spark plugs it cranked so slow...

It started on the 3rd attempt after putting about 4 gallons of fresh gas in the tank and bottle feeding it till the fuel pump worked.

After we got it running and warming up I noticed 1 of the 8 spark plug leads wasn't even hooked up at the distributor cap.... Cluch wasn't noisy. Brakes worked too.IMG_9246.jpg
IMG_9248.jpg

Needs more gas

Power Steering Fluid

Alternator Charging?

Fuel Gauge Work?

Front Axle Full?

Rear Axle Full?

Transfer Case Full?

Transmission Full?

Windshield Wipers - Replace

Vacuum Out the Cab and HVAC box

Look over the tires good

Spark Plugs & Spark Plug Wires

Fuel Filter (Wix 33032)

Belts

Hoses

Check all lights

Grease U-joints

WD40/other hood latch and hinges and doors

Driver’s door does not open from inside

Take floor jack and try to raise the driver’s door, it drags opening and closing

That should get the old farm truck moving. Really needs different wheels and tires at some point, ditching the 16.5 wheels.
 
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21 Years since it had tags on it. I bet its been sitting at least 20 years.

Engine oil looked fine, radiator was full of proper green coolant.

Outside air temp was maybe 15 degrees F and it cranked slow as a bitter old man with a battery laying on the ground hooked to it via jumper cables. I figured there was no way there was enough voltage to fire spark plugs it cranked so slow...

It started on the 3rd attempt after putting about 4 gallons of fresh gas in the tank and bottle feeding it till the fuel pump worked.

After we got it running and warming up I noticed 1 of the 8 spark plug leads wasn't even hooked up at the distributor cap....
View attachment 136149
Makes the Camry's paltry 5 years of sitting time pathetic by comparison...
I'm surprised that of all days to pick -- you'd choose to start a 20-year-idle truck when it's 15 F out :oops: . No way the truck enjoyed that!
 
It's weird how non-aviation engines seem to be able to survive long periods of inactivity. Modern engines like the Camry make sense as they're effectively sealed, so humidity/oxygen can't get in. It's the older stuff that's impressive, and seasonal equipment like my combine for instance. That crankcase is not sealed, it sits for 10 months out of the year, then is run at 100% power and redline RPM for 200 hours, then put away again. Yet it does just fine, year after year. I think I've got around 3000 hours on the engine now, and would expect it to go to 6,000 without an issue.
 
Makes the Camry's paltry 5 years of sitting time pathetic by comparison...
I'm surprised that of all days to pick -- you'd choose to start a 20-year-idle truck when it's 15 F out :oops: . No way the truck enjoyed that!
Dad's adult children were kinda bored on Thanksgiving vacation at the farm so we did the right thing as a family, dragged an old truck from its sleepy grave. My nephew is 11 and he loved being outside helping.

We had to jumpstart that tractor too.
 
That crankcase is not sealed, it sits for 10 months out of the year, then is run at 100% power and redline RPM for 200 hours, then put away again. Yet it does just fine, year after year. I think I've got around 3000 hours on the engine now, and would expect it to go to 6,000 without an issue.
In your correspondence with Lycoming you should include that as a benchmark :D
Not asking for much, just a modest 500% increase in TBO without much intermediate maintenance, and the ability to idle for 10 consecutive months. Clearly the technology exists!
 
Pull the top plugs, squirt/spray a bit of oil into each cylinder, let it sit a bit, then turn her over.
Replace plugs and go for it. Let her gently idle.
 
I have first run all original Lycoming O-320 cylinders on my bench that were brand new in 1968. They were removed from service last year 2023 and there is some pitting in them but nothin crazy. Valve guides are kinda sloppy but they have 2002 hours on them.
 
Makes the Camry's paltry 5 years of sitting time pathetic by comparison...
I'm surprised that of all days to pick -- you'd choose to start a 20-year-idle truck when it's 15 F out :oops: . No way the truck enjoyed that!

My grandpa bought brand new in 1979, I got it a few years ago, just polished the paint and put on new wheels and tires on, Its 87K miles. Dad drove it to Memphis & back from South Dakota right before I got it. Original engine & transmission.

IMG_7444.jpg
 
My grandpa bought brand new in 1979, I got it a few years ago, just polished the paint and put on new wheels and tires on, Its 87K miles. Dad drove it to Memphis & back from South Dakota right before I got it. Original engine & transmission.

View attachment 136153
Love it. I fondly remember Dad's 79 Chevy k20. Id like to have another one.
 
My grandpa bought brand new in 1979, I got it a few years ago, just polished the paint and put on new wheels and tires on, Its 87K miles. Dad drove it to Memphis & back from South Dakota right before I got it. Original engine & transmission.

View attachment 136153
That's nice. That thing probably has some value to it.
 
Modern engines are pretty well sealed, so there isn't much issue with corrosion. Same for the fuel system, although automotive gas doesn't store well. A five year old Toyota....I'd put a battery in it and crank it. I bet it'll start. If not, I'd drain the fuel and put in fresh. If you're lucky they parked it without much fuel in it, so you could just fill it up with fresh gas and the old stuff will blend off. The lines could be bled, or you could just crank it for a while until the fresh fuel gets to the engine. I'd change the oil and fuel filter after I got it running. Everything else should be fine. Check the air filter box for mice before you do anything, that would probably be worth replacing due to age as well. Tires will be fine.
I agree with this except I would change the oil and filter before cranking. Sometimes the paper filters can come apart. while rare, it's catastrophic. So fresh oil, filter, battery. check the fluid levels and start it.

If it goes, then run the **** out of it. Once it's running, then I would, within a month or two, catch up the other stuff (tires may be too old, coolant, transmission fluid) then you have a great car.
 
21 Years since it had tags on it. I bet its been sitting at least 20 years.

Engine oil looked fine, radiator was full of proper green coolant. The both passenger side tires were flat, driver front was low, and driver rear had a lot of air in it still.

Outside air temp was maybe 15 degrees F and it cranked slow as a bitter old man with a battery laying on the ground hooked to it via jumper cables. I figured there was no way there was enough voltage to fire spark plugs it cranked so slow...

It started on the 3rd attempt after putting about 4 gallons of fresh gas in the tank and bottle feeding it till the fuel pump worked.

After we got it running and warming up I noticed 1 of the 8 spark plug leads wasn't even hooked up at the distributor cap.... Cluch wasn't noisy. Brakes worked too.View attachment 136150
View attachment 136149

Needs more gas

Power Steering Fluid

Alternator Charging?

Fuel Gauge Work?

Front Axle Full?

Rear Axle Full?

Transfer Case Full?

Transmission Full?

Windshield Wipers - Replace

Vacuum Out the Cab and HVAC box

Look over the tires good

Spark Plugs & Spark Plug Wires

Fuel Filter (Wix 33032)

Belts

Hoses

Check all lights

Grease U-joints

WD40/other hood latch and hinges and doors

Driver’s door does not open from inside

Take floor jack and try to raise the driver’s door, it drags opening and closing

That should get the old farm truck moving. Really needs different wheels and tires at some point, ditching the 16.5 wheels.
you could do that stuff, clean it up and maybe sell it. Classic trucks are getting big money if it's a good runner and cleaned up. Do the above, wash and wax, drive for a month and see what it's worth.
 
you could do that stuff, clean it up and maybe sell it. Classic trucks are getting big money if it's a good runner and cleaned up. Do the above, wash and wax, drive for a month and see what it's worth.
It's gotten absolutely crazy. There are decent condition 1990's Ford F-250 with a 460 or 7.3L w/180K on the clock asking $18-$25K. It's more than the thing sold for new, lol.
 
It's gotten absolutely crazy. There are decent condition 1990's Ford F-250 with a 460 or 7.3L w/180K on the clock asking $18-$25K. It's more than the thing sold for new, lol.
Old is the newest new I guess.

I'm still looking for another 2004 or 2005 Grand Marquis to add to my fleet. I would also take a Lincoln Town Car in that age range or a bit newer or a Crown Vic if the price was right.

Dad and I relocated an old 1998 Chevy Lumina to an airport where a buddy of mine has some lake property so we have an airport car. The lumina he bought used with something like 11K miles on it in 1999, now has 185K miles on it. It keeps going so we'll keep using it. I don't like the car but it keeps running and its in decent shape... so ok.
 
Classic trucks are getting big money if it's a good runner and cleaned up.

It's gotten absolutely crazy. There are decent condition 1990's Ford F-250 with a 460 or 7.3L w/180K on the clock asking $18-$25K. It's more than the thing sold for new, lol.

Old is the newest new I guess.
It's [not really] amazing what happens to the market value of stuff that works when companies -- for a number of reasons -- put out crap that doesn't and relentlessly raise the asking price for it. Google "enshittification" at your leisure for fun and enlightenment.
 
This was a hilarious outcome, thought I'd post it. Since it's been a year I'll recap: I was offered an essentially brand new Camry that hasn't been turned on in 4 years. Parent got too old, lost their license and just left it as a paperweight in the garage. Then everyone here offered good suggestions about what's needed to get it running again.

But...

In typical family fashion no one could agree on the next best steps were last year, and my logic was unable to prevail. So the car sat for another year unused until we reconvened during this Thanksgiving week and again fought out the details.
During the peak of the argument there was a lot of "I think we should..." and "we should probably..." arguments being thrown around, but nothing really grounded in fact, evidence or automotive research of any kind.

So while everyone was debating in the other room about how to best get the car rolling again, and who should pay to get it moving, I quietly excused myself and drove to AutoZone to get another auto battery (b/c 1 year later of not running it needed another one). I went back, dropped in the new battery, cranked it for 4 seconds, and the car started right up.

Moral of the story: Toyotas are awesome. Family fights are pointless. Car is running again with fresh gas, but at the mechanic for a tune-up just b/c it's been for-god-damn-ever since it drove (and tires need replacing). It'll be in my garage next week :D

Not at all surprised that was the outcome. Enjoy the car!
 
It's gotten absolutely crazy. There are decent condition 1990's Ford F-250 with a 460 or 7.3L w/180K on the clock asking $18-$25K. It's more than the thing sold for new, lol.
My brother just sold a black 1989 4x4 F350 crew cab 460 auto, SRW, loaded, 140k miles in really good shape. Nice paint/interior, newer motor really needed nothing for 18k. Given what other trucks have been selling for and the rarity of a 1 ton thought it was cheap.
 
My brother just sold a black 1989 4x4 F350 crew cab 460 auto, SRW, loaded, 140k miles in really good shape. Nice paint/interior, newer motor really needed nothing for 18k. Given what other trucks have been selling for and the rarity of a 1 ton thought it was cheap.
It's crazy because you can generally find the 1999-2007 F-350 SRW crew cabs with the 7.3L or 6.0L for the sme or less, and they're WAY more capable and comfortable to drive. Some of that has to do with greater numbers of them available, as most of the 87-97 F-series have long since rusted out or have 300K miles on them and are beat to hell. I love some of those 90s trucks but they weren't the greatest for road manners. The late-90s/early-00s had some pretty good advancements in truck ride, cabin design, and handling across all the major brands.

Still have fond memories of my father's 1990 F-150 XLT Lariat SuperCab with Silver/Black 2-tone paint and a 5.0L.
 
Dang, I’m thinking I should put my 2001 dodge v-10 3500 magnum 4x4 dually up on blocks in a shed and wait a few years instead of using it as a work commuting vehicle lol.
 
It's crazy because you can generally find the 1999-2007 F-350 SRW crew cabs with the 7.3L or 6.0L for the sme or less, and they're WAY more capable and comfortable to drive. Some of that has to do with greater numbers of them available, as most of the 87-97 F-series have long since rusted out or have 300K miles on them and are beat to hell. I love some of those 90s trucks but they weren't the greatest for road manners. The late-90s/early-00s had some pretty good advancements in truck ride, cabin design, and handling across all the major brands.

Still have fond memories of my father's 1990 F-150 XLT Lariat SuperCab with Silver/Black 2-tone paint and a 5.0L.

100% agree on this point. It's not unlike the Fox body Mustangs. 25 years ago when I was in high school you could pick those things up for $1k or less. They really were not very good cars, and everyone knew it. Now they've skyrocketed in value, mostly from the nostalgia factor and the fact that so many have rusted out - same as the OBS trucks.

Those 99-07 F Super Duty trucks were better in every conceivable way. More comfortable, better built, more power/better engine selection, quieter, drove better, the list goes on and on. But now the OBS trucks are fetching a premium.

Deboss Garage did an OBS F-350 crew cab/long bed build with a Cat 3126B and Allison 6-speed (basically the same combination as what my old RV had). It's a really nice build, and I have no doubt that it drives very well. They went so far as to install the interior from an 08+ (I forget the exact year) King Ranch, down to the dash and steering wheel.

It was also a massive, massive effort to do. It made great content on YouTube and it was a very unique build, which is part of the point for that sort of a channel. My hat's off to them for what they accomplished, and I also have no idea how much of that build included free parts from sponsors (ignoring the probably thousands of hours of labor they put into it), but it probably would've been cheaper to buy something new. It definitely would've been cheaper to buy something later with a Powerstroke 7.3 or else say a 6.0/gasser and Cummins swap it.

There's another guy with an 08 F-250/350 (I forget which) that had a 6.4 and he swapped in a Detroit 4-53T 2-stroke after the 6.4 let go paired to a 5R110. He's got something like 70k miles on the swap now. Less power than the 6.4 technically, but it's a really cool build that's proven durable after a few initial teething issues.
 
New gas new battery ,then worry about changing all fluids and check the hoses.
 
A couple weeks ago I was offered 20K for my 2005 Duramax/Alison, 3/4 ton, ext cab, 4wd. I paid 29K for it brand new.

You got a good deal. I had a 2004.5 Ram 2500 crew cab. 4x2, 6-speed, paid $32k new. It was an SLT, so fairly standard trim with nothing too fancy. Cloth seats, AM/FM/CD.

My 17 is much nicer, but in some ways there were things I liked more about that 2004. If I’d bought it as a 4x4 I wouldn’t have sold it, at least not when I did.
 
My 17 is much nicer, but in some ways there were things I liked more about that 2004. If I’d bought it as a 4x4 I wouldn’t have sold it, at least not when I did.
My 04 GMC Sierra had disc brakes all around. 2012 GMC sierra has rear drums.
 
My 04 GMC Sierra had disc brakes all around. 2012 GMC sierra has rear drums.

Well, you did buy a GM. The GM braking division motto is: "We never stop"

Seriously, I don't understand things like that, and that's the sort of thing that GM has been doing for decades. Why drum brakes still exist at all is beyond me, even my Prevost has discs on all 6 positions. A college roommate of mine lamented the same thing. He'd had an early 90s Pontiac Grand Prix (with 4 wheel discs) and then had a later 90s Grand Prix with rear drums. Great job, GM.

My '04 and '17 Rams are/were both disc brakes in all 4 corners, the engine went from the 5.9 to the 6.7 (which as I understand it was mostly emissions driven). The transmission changed from an NV5600 to a G56, but that happened not long after my '04 was built, may have even been in '05? I forget. I actually think that my '04 was peppier, but it had 3.73s vs. the 3.42s in my '17, and the '17 only has marginally more horsepower and torque, plus it's heavier between 4x4 etc.

Mainly, the '17 has the touch screen controls/infotainment, leather seats with heated/cooled (should've added seat heaters to my '04 when I first bought it, that would've been nice. Also, the 4th gen rear seat was a lot larger whereas the 3rd gen crew cab rear seat was more of a slightly larger vs. an extended cab.

More than anything, my '04 has better memories attached to it from the 108,000 miles I drove it in the 2 years I owned it all over the country.
 
My 04 GMC Sierra had disc brakes all around. 2012 GMC sierra has rear drums.
We had an '07 GMC Sierra (07-13 body style) and it also had the rear drums. Rear disc was an option/upgrade. I was just dumbfounded that my '98 F-150 and '08 F-150 were 4-wheel disc, but an SLT GMC truck with leather interior still had rear drums. Now the only thing I own with drum brakes is my boat trailer and technically the parking brake on my Excursion uses the inside of the brake hub like a drum brake, lol.
 
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