I picked up for under $20 an entire set of "security" screwdriver bits from Harbor Freight a while back. Comes in handy from time to time.
The security torx screws can usually be removed by just using a flat-blade (slot) screwdriver and placing it off-center next to the center pin. If you have the ends of the slot inserted in the splines, it should give you enough grip to get it to turn.
Thanks, @SoonerAviator, that did the trick and I have the battery pack open.
Next question for you and/or @denverpilot, look at this photo. How do I glue weld or solder the metal shunts from battery to battery? I would think a garden variety soldering iron wouldn't be hot enough to make a good joint before heating the batteries too hot? Sounds like that could be dangerous. Or am I wrong?
-Skip
Reviving this thread because the 12V NiCd's in ye olde DeWalt that I got second-hand are on their last legs. Considering the upcoming Black Friday, seems to be not much more to buy a whole new drill kit than to get new batteries.
Here's what's on sale next week:
$40 - Black&Decker (1.5AH)
Where's the sweet spot? What would you buy?
My Ridgid drill and driver and batteries just keep working. No complaints.The little 12 volt Ridgid is perfect for around the airplane. Small, light and the last one I bought I used for 5 years every day pulling panels (lots of screws) and the little LED light that came in the set is good for tight places. Still using the same 2 batteries.