[NA]Briggs n Stratton[NA]

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Touchdown! Greaser!
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Feb 23, 2005
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west Texas
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Display name:
Dave Taylor
Anyone here intimately familiar with these small engines, ie work(ed) at the factory, was a retailer?
 
Taken them apart and put them back together again. Why?
 
Its a compatibility question; HP & rpm, shaft length, keyway position, shaft diameter, mounting hole specs etc etc
 
Trivia question: How many engines does Briggs and Stratton make annually?

-Skip
 
Its a compatibility question; HP & rpm, shaft length, keyway position, shaft diameter, mounting hole specs etc etc

How old? The newest one I've worked with recently is off a 30 year old Ryan/OMC my mom has. My grandmother probably still has the microfiche my grandfather used when he ran his business too, so that might push it out to 1989/1990.
 

Sorry I missed your post.

My grandfather closed his shop before then, if you still need the info, I can see if it's an engine that existed while he had his shop open. Can you the the numbers / codes off the engine?
 
Its a compatibility question; HP & rpm, shaft length, keyway position, shaft diameter, mounting hole specs etc etc


It's a B&S, just put it together and see if it'll run.... You'll have all of a couple hours in the project.
 
I want to replace this engine. It is burning oil like crazy and asphyxiating me with blue smoke. I am sure the barrel is wore out. You cannot bore this aluminum barrel, or you can and it won't last long. You can't buy a new short block for it. They do not sell it anymore so you can't replace it.
I want to look into finding one which has the same specs (hp, shaft specs etc) - B&S says not available but I think they probably have one that will work with some mower frame adjustments.

Family YBSXS 5012VP
MN 287707
Code 011211ZE
Type 1236-E1
 
This one is supposed to be an exact fit replacement; somebody else (see Viggen's posts) replaced their 287707 with the 3C707 and said it worked great. Oh, and 3 more horsepower. ;-)

Have you tried replacing the head gasket? From the same thread:

I too have a B&S Model 287707 Type 0225 01 from 1995. Noticed burning lots of oil late summer 2007. Read the thread here and bought B&S head gasket 273280S. Took head off and gasket initially looked OK, pulled gasket off and the underside, in middle, from pushrods to cylinder was blown thru. Replaced gasket ($10) and all is well, no longer burning oil. Lessons learned: Needed large Hex/Torx bit (T45) to remove tough-to-access bolt behind exhaust. And dont drop the thingies between the valve and lifter mechanism as I did, lost an hour.
 
Thanks for the research Troy, this could well be the ticket. (replacement)
Its a Snapper Rider.
 
That's pretty impressive... assuming working every day, and all 3000 being engine manufacturers, that's 9.13 engines per employee per day.
 
10 million and they don't officially make ONE for my application. Boy this is sounding like my luck in spades.
 
10 million and they don't officially make ONE for my application. Boy this is sounding like my luck in spades.

I'll go through the microfiche this weekend and see if I can find a compatible engine from the numbers you gave me. The engines typically were used by several manufacturers, so the same one might be on a (or other) rider. I'll also talk to Joe Niemuth? (he "bought" my grandfather's business years ago) and Jason (he works on them today) too. What's the model of tractor JIC. It should have a sub model on it, usually a something like a dataplate.
 
Dave, get the exact model/serial number of the rider. There is a really good Snapper dealer near my house (I own a rear rider, too) and I'm 15 minutes from McDonough, Ga the home of Snapper. They should have info on a replacement engine.
 
Briggs and Stratton 14.5hp
MN 287 707
Type 1236-E1
Code 011211ZE

Snapper Rider (about 2002)
MN YZ 145 333 BVE
PN 84733
SN 21388928

Thanks, guys.
 
This board, and the resources and willingness it brings to bear, never ceases to amaze me.
 
Just so I'm sure what I'm talking about, does it look like this?
attachment.php

new_vehicle_additionalfeatures.asp
 

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Yes that is it. Except mine now has no discharge deflector, has a large bumper attached to the rear end, the foot panel has been replaced with a home-made wooden one. The muffler replaced with a modified Ace Hardware version. The key switch removed and replaced with a radio shack toggle switch. The start button inop, you have to make contact across the (dead) relay with a piece of spring steel. Tires mismatched but hold air thanks to a gallon of sealant in each.
Other than that it is just like the one in the picture!
 
Yes that is it. Except mine now has no discharge deflector, has a large bumper attached to the rear end, the foot panel has been replaced with a home-made wooden one. The muffler replaced with a modified Ace Hardware version. The key switch removed and replaced with a radio shack toggle switch. The start button inop, you have to make contact across the (dead) relay with a piece of spring steel. Tires mismatched but hold air thanks to a gallon of sealant in each.
Other than that it is just like the one in the picture!

And you are sure it is not just time to buy a new one :D
 
When I was typing that I was thinking the same thing. But I am the type to wring every last ounce of life out of equipment. The darned thing is new ones are $3000.
 
Dave, I talked to my Snapper guy and he called Snapper. There indeed is no direct replacement called out for your YZ mower. However, their service manager said almost any 14.5 horse B&S would work, and in a hypothetical scenario that I presented to them, they said if you dragged your mower in and wanted a new engine, they would pull one from their stock, and install it. Not a very uncommon occurrence in his experience. The new engine would run $489 + tax. (Installation labor extra, of course).
His suggestion was that if you have a Snapper dealer anywhere nearby, and you pull your engine and take it by to see them, they can sell you a replacement off the shelf, or order you one.

A search of the dealer locator at Snapper.com reveals that Snapper has outlets in Carlsbad:

A Clueco Enterprises, Inc. Company 2310 W. Church Street
Carlsbad, NM 88220
(575) 885-2788


And Odessa:
LAWNMOWER SALES & SERVICE

901 NORTH WHITAKER STREET
ODESSA, TX 79763
Phone: 432-333-3126

Unfortunately, you are 180 miles from both.....

Let me know if I can help out.
 
That's the dealer I bought it from (Odessa); that's the one that said 'no way to change or repair the engine, I need to buy a new mower'.
I wonder which engine your guy would suggest.
 
Dave, take a look at this engine... Look familiar? This is the side valve (flat head model) Note that it is also a 13.5 HP.
If you have the overhead valve model, the exhaust would be on the wrong side. I talked to these guys, and though their price seemed a bit more, they were knowledgeable. Doesn't necessarily mean you'd have to buy it from them. Look at the bottom of the page to see how to measure the shaft length.

http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com... IC, Electric Start replaces 12-13.5hp models
 
Dave Are you sure it is not the commercial B&S engine? They have a steel sleeve and all you would need is to replace the rings and have the valves and seats ground. If the air cleaner has been serviced correctly. It could have a broken oil ring on the piston too. You would still have to take the engine off of the mower. But it would be cheaper than a new engine.
 
Thanks Bob, dealer says its an Al block, no sleeve.
I will cut the grass one more time then disassemble!
 
Your local machine shop can most likely sleeve it for you...

I'll ship it to you. But you have to promise to do it at a fraction of the price of new, and guarantee it for three years. Plus no charge, if the bottom end is worn out. :D
 
I'll ship it to you. But you have to promise to do it at a fraction of the price of new, and guarantee it for three years. Plus no charge, if the bottom end is worn out. :D

What's the price of fitting it with a new one? There's plenty of oilfield equipment repair places out there that can take care of it for pretty cheap.
 
I am seeing prices of $500 to 1000. With its age and harsh work history, it's very likely I will not be repairing it....but replacing....either the engine if I can find a compatible one...or the entire mower. The oilfield industry is so damned busy right now, no way they would mess with it. It's like the gold rush out there.
 
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