NA: auto battery choice

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Dave Taylor
What is the best type of battery for a car that is used less than weekly? The goal would be best longevity vs price of course. Car is kept in unheated garage.
1997 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2.5L V6 Trim; Jxi. Current battery has side posts.
Have Interstate dealer here, if narrowing that down helps.
PS this battery is located in the wheel well - so it is not readily accessible for maintenance. There will be no checking fluid levels etc. Thinking No-Mx battery if there is such a thing.
 
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Hook up a battery maintainer.

I have gotten good service out of yellow top Optimas.
 
I've had good luck over the years with Sears. Top end Die Hards have worked well. You do need to keep the battery charged, whatever brand you go with. I had to drop the charger on the battery in my wife's Jeep Commander a week ago. It hadn't been run in quite a while and was dead. Came back to life, but I don't know what the impact on life expectancy might be. No problem, Sears has a great warranty on those things.
 
Battery Tender. One of those will keep any battery from cheap to expensive ready to go at any time.

And I've had good experience with both red and yellow top Optimas EXCEPT when the vehicle is operated off road or on washboards regularly. They don't like that apparently.

That and not believing a battery is "no maintenance" unless it's truly and really sealed like the Optimas.

Take the cap off and add distilled water when a cell is low just like grandpa used to do and they last bloody forever.
 
I'm an Interstate fan for auto batteries. Also used Die Hards and Deka's with good success, but seems as though the Interstates just outlast everyone else.

Gary
 
Just two data points:

1. Many (most?) batteries have various length of warranties. Many (most?) of the three year batteries are the exact same battery as the five year. You're simply paying for the longer warranty.

2. As others have mentioned above, a battery tender is a good idea for seldom driven vehicles. Or...
I find it easier on most vehicles to simply disconnect the negative battery terminal to keep the electronics from slowly draining it. Only takes about 30 seconds to so...and 5 seconds to reset the clock when reconnected.
 
Frankly, I haven't been unhappy with any battery I've bought in the past 30 years. I've used Die Hard, Exide, Interstate, and probably others, and they've all at least performed up to their warranties and/or until I sold the cars in which they were installed.

I do, however, buy batteries at the top of the battery manufacturer's line; I avoid companies I've never heard of; and I add a bit of headroom to the car manufacturer's CCA specifications whenever possible, which is almost always the case. Very few car batteries are so unique that you can't buy one that's a bit better then the specs call for.

If I had to suggest one brand, I suppose it would be Interstate, simply because of their ubiquity. They seem to be the favorite of independent garages anywhere I've ever been in the past 20 or 30 years, so warranty replacement should be easy if needed. I say "should" because I've never had occasion to use the warranty on a car battery. My second choice would be Sears, for the same reason.

For seldom-used cars, I agree with others who recommend battery maintainers. I happen to like the solar ones if the location lends itself to proper placement of the solar panel. Photo-voltaic cells have come a long way in the past decade. Almost all my exterior lighting is now solar-powered, and it works great.

I'm a consummate tightwad. My lady friend told me over the weekend that I should wear a uniform with a cape and mask and a giant dollar sign on my chest when I go shopping. But on something like a car battery, the difference in price between cheap crap and top shelf is trivial considering the battery's useful life. It's one of those "penny-wise / pound-foolish" situations. So car batteries are something I don't skimp on, especially considering the winters where I live.

Rich
 
Is AGM an option for this application?
ref 30secs to unscrew neg terminal; see the 'batt is in wheel well", behind fender part - not reasonable in this case
ref solar chargers; see the 'kept in garage' part. Have 120v however.
 
Is AGM an option for this application?
ref 30secs to unscrew neg terminal; see the 'batt is in wheel well", behind fender part - not reasonable in this case
ref solar chargers; see the 'kept in garage' part. Have 120v however.

I can't think of a reason why an AGM battery wouldn't be an option. Whether it's necessary is debatable (they're usually recommended for cars with a lot of on-board tech, high-powered sound systems, and so forth); but they usually represent the top of a manufacturer's line, have the best warranties, and are available in most (if not all) configurations. I can't think of a good reason, other than initial cost, not to use one on a car you plan to keep.

As for the solar battery maintainers, they come in two basic styles. One is designed to be hooked up to the battery and the panel secured on the roof or hood of the car, usually with suction cups. The ones I'm referring to for your mission have longer leads so the panel can be mounted on the roof or exterior of the garage in a sunny place. They also tend to have the controllers in-line rather than built-in to the panel because the panels also have other applications aside from trickle charging.

Most people have no idea how much power transformers consume even when they're not doing anything useful. Even most phone, tablet, electric razor, and other portable device chargers suck enough current as long as they're plugged in to collectively make a noticeable difference in the average electrical bill. The draw on the primary side of a "wall wart" charger under no load is almost as high as it is under full load. (A few are smart enough to only draw full current when there's a demand for it and only a slight trickle when they're standing by, but they're the exception.)

Long story short, if your typical AC-powered battery charger is capable of putting out 60 watts on the output side (as is the case with a five-amp maximum-capacity charger), then it's always consuming more than that on the input side (because transformers are not 100 percent efficient), even if you have it set to a lower setting for trickle charging, and in fact even if it's doing nothing at all.

Well-made, solar-powered battery maintainers with panels that can be mounted on the outside of a garage list in the $100.00 - $200.00 neighborhood, and can be had for less than $50.00 if you shop around. It doesn't take long to pay them off, especially if your electric rates are high.

One thing you should NOT do is splice extra wire into the leads between the panel and the controller. The resistance of the wire is factored into the system design. Adding more resistance will definitely reduce power output and might damage the controller.

Rich
 
doesn't really matter, there are only three major battery manufacturer's in the US -
Johnson Controls, Delphi and Exide
 
Newer Optimas suck. Just go with whatever and put a trickle charger on it
 
Yellow top optima and a battery tender, I've had great luck with optimas, only dray back is they weight a little more compared to your cheapie batteries.
 
My AC delco stock battery lasted 5.5yrs turning over a 6.2L v8. I think it's more luck of the draw than anything
 
For me in my barely used truck I got an Optima and only regret not getting it sooner. No doubt about it for me that is the best!
 
doesn't really matter, there are only three major battery manufacturer's in the US -
Johnson Controls, Delphi and Exide

This. The various store brands go back and forth between the different manufacturers. Whether the label says 'DieHard' or 'Interstate', they come from the same production lines.
 
I believe AGMs require a different trickle charger than flooded cells.
 
I need a group size 75 with side terminals.
What the heck do all the suffixes mean? -3S -N -3N etc
 
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