It sure does!
[NA]120,000 mi engine oil?[NA]
- Thread starter Let'sgoflying!
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Let'sgoflying!
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I was wondering if there is new space age oil that would safely allow me to extend that, Ted.
CJones
Final Approach
Yep. Over 5 runs, you can get that many dollars off an oil change. Somehow they messed around and scored 15 once this season and I totally forgot about it the following day.
We also get 50% off PapaJohns if they score 5 or more. Funny thing - we went to a National's game in DC last year and their PapaJohn's deal was 50% if they score 5 or more runs, but the Braves deal at that time was 50% off if they score 4 or more. Different expectations of the teams last year. ha!
Ted
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Some people have said that with synthetic you can double the oil change interval. However, at 220k miles, I would say that the cumulative amount of sludge etc. that likely exists in your engine would make me personally not want to go longer than what the manufacturer says regardless of oil.
That said, I run 10k intervals on all my cars (including the 230k mile E55) but that's what the manufacturer recommends or more conservative than.
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I just RTFM. On car #1, it says to change every 6mo or 6kmi, which ever comes first, and that's what I do. The other two cars have OLMs, and I follow them.
Ted
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Yeah, I definitely follow RTFM on mileage. On calendar time, not always.
flyingbrit
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I bought a Chevy HHR (manual transmission, woo-hoo!) used with 103K miles a few years ago. Followed the OLM, which usually resulted in 6K-8K oil change intervals. However, I was disappointed in the amount of sludge present when I replaced the primary timing chain at 165K. Not terrible, but not almost perfectly clean like previous vehicles where I stuck to 3K changes. So now I will change oil at 50% OLM. OTOH, my daughter's Honda was very clean when I adjusted the valves recently at 100K. She has gone by the OLM since new, usually at 15%.
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SoonerAviator
Found your problem . . .
Ted
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iFlyNothing
Do you have any idea how the original owner did on changing oil? My experience is that most car owners are terrible about changing oil at the prescribed intervals and that may have been the real issue.
denverpilot
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When I was hunting for the longest manufacturer oil changes I noted that numerous manufacturers don’t specify mileage at all anymore. Just the “go when the car sensor says to” stuff. Many FMs don’t have it anymore.
Ted
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When I was hunting for the longest manufacturer oil changes I noted that numerous manufacturers don’t specify mileage at all anymore. Just the “go when the car sensor says to” stuff. Many FMs don’t have it anymore.
Yes, that's what they've been moving towards. Really it makes more sense if the sensor is done correctly, and the manufacturers have put a lot of work into those sensors. What I'm not convinced on is if they've correctly evaluated how the engines likely end up behaving once you get 100k+ miles worth of real use.
denverpilot
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Perhaps they might have a reason not to care if we make it over 100,000 miles? LOL.
Hahahahaha welcome back to the 70s?
Ted
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Perhaps they might have a reason not to care if we make it over 100,000 miles? LOL.
Hahahahaha welcome back to the 70s?
I think we're at the point where 10 years/100k is the minimum anyone wants to see out of a vehicle. Hyundai is pretty smart warrantying their cars for that long for that reason and I'm sure it gains them sales as a result. Of course they're also still trying to make their place in the market and while they've improved, their cars are still in the category of things most of us wouldn't want to buy. Reliability wise, though, I think they're good.
But with better engines and better oils things do last longer, and the oil computers are a good technology if used properly. Plus nobody wants to do maintenance, so it's logical.
Like I said, I think the real issue is that I'm not sure if they're able to correctly account for the real world effects with time, and what I'm really talking about is sludge etc.
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That also depends on what oil people dump in their cars. Using the correct viscosity and service classification is important over the long haul. And who knows what the quick lube places dump in, probably whatever bulk oil swill they got a good deal on.
Ted
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That's also correct, and one of the problems. A lot of people don't want to run the right oil for the engine they're running, and especially don't want to run synthetic (it's expensive!) in engines that actually need it. And then you get people running just cheap junk oil.
ElPaso Pilot
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Funny. Had a Chevy with a 2.5L Iron Duke a number of years back. I don't think the previous owner ever changed the oil, only added when low.
When I pulled the valve cover, it came off like a muffin tin. Had a beautiful sludge mold of the inside of the valve cover sitting on the head, with no visible valve train.
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Ah, the good ol' Iron Duck. They had a distinctive sound.
denverpilot
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It was tempting to me but for two things. One of the bosses went that route on a higher end one and it made it eight years before he got tired of taking it in for that warranty coverage. LOL.
The other is, there’s either a glut or lease returns or a bunch of people defaulting on Toyota Corollas around here. I don’t know if this is national, but if someone wants a Corolla, search Denver and come drive one home.
If I needed or wanted to replace the daily driver right now, there’s Corollas a year old with 20K on them coming out of dealer’s ears out here right now. Most advertised for $12K or lower.
Only downside for us would be we really need AWD/4WD out here a few times a year. But for the vast majority of the year an econobox would be fine for commuting and errands, as long as the dogs weren’t coming along.
Heck with blankets in the back, they’d fit. The 95 lb one wouldn’t be happy but he’d figure it out. Ha.
Of course used Subaru’s are a dime a dozen around here also but not as cheap as the Corollas. If you plan for oil leaks and a failed CVT (those idiots... why Subaru?!) they’d be a fine option for full time AWD.
CVT. Subaru. Really? Really. Ugh.
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chartbundle
It was hard to find the 'Special' Oil(dexos 2) for my new truck for the first year or 2, my options were buying from the dealer or mail order. Since 80% of my paycheck already goes to Amazon I'm using some French Fully Synthetic. Amusingly now that Mobil has gotten into the dexos 2 game, they're actually more expensive than my froofy French oil. Looks like the aftermarket filters are now available too, which also look to be more expensive than the factory ones.
DFH65
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DFH65
LOL!
https://www.toyotaofoxnard.com/lifetime-oil
A quick search shows a bunch of toyota dealers selling "lifetime" oil service plans.
Looks like she is paying for oil changes she isn't using.
What the salesman said: Oil changes are covered for 120,000 miles so you never have to worry about it.
What the lady heard: You never have to worry about it.
Let'sgoflying!
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You folks running 10K on their oil....how does it look, smell and 'drip' at change-time?
Maybe that beautiful honey-gold thickness when you first put it in is not so important?
Maybe that beautiful honey-gold thickness when you first put it in is not so important?
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One of the advantages to the Diesel is that the oil is solid black from the first time you start it after an oil change. Makes it easy to see on the dipstick.
John221us
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I have a 2019 Toyota Tacoma and Toyota says 10K with synthetic oil (required). They give you the first two years of changes included with the purchase (but you still have to have them done).
Ted
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I'm not a big CVT fan as the reliability is still not where it needs to be. I think the OEMs are realizing it's a good idea that the execution thereof just isn't very reliable, and thus they're better off going to the bunch-of-gears automatics instead. 95+% of the benefit with fewer failures.
That said, once I started flying I didn't mind the CVTs at all. They felt like a constant speed prop.
Well, on the diesel it's black as soon as you start the engine. But it's a diesel, so you expect that. Still feels fine and drips fine coming out, no indications that it's breaking down on viscosity. I run 15W-40.
On the Mercedes I run 0W-40 Mobil 1 full synthetic (that's what they call for) and again, no issues. The first oil change I did on the E55 was different, but that was the oil it came with. I'm guessing the previous owner hadn't used the right oil, and may have reset the oil clock before sending it to me to make it look like "Fresh oil change!" Every time since with the good stuff, no issues.
denverpilot
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Yeah the problem on Subarus appears to be overheating in off road or low traction scenarios. The CVT saves itself long before their excellent AWD system gives up.
Not exactly what you want in a “get me home” AWD vehicle in snow.
Bunches of videos showing this behavior no matter what button or mode you put the stupid car in, and Subaru doubles down and removed normal auto transmissions altogether.
They’d have to get their chit together on them with whatever they need to do... bigger CVT that can handle heat, better computer programming for the maximum off road mode, whatever — and still have the thing run more than 100K, before I’m a buyer.
If we go Subaru again, I’ll hunt for an older one as late model as possible without the CVT. It’s the wrong tech for their application.
I can bury the current Subaru to the axles in mud on the dirt road after a snowstorm and know it won’t shut down due to a computer telling it the trans got a little hot. It’s 10F out and the case is covered in mud and water. It’ll cool off 200 yards up the road once I’m out of the mud bog. And I can change the high quality fluid soon afterward. If I took a small amount of media off of the clutches in the auto, so be it.
RJM62
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Geek on the Hill
Why I buy used cars with questionable oil-change histories, I do a very-short-interval (like 250-mile) oil change using something like Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella that's rated for both gasoline and diesel engines. Then I repeat it a few times at still-short, but progressively-longer intervals determined by how bad the first drain was. The extra detergency in diesel-rated motor oil tends to clean things out. But it also tends to clog the filters if the engine is really bad, hence the short intervals.
It's not without its risks, but I've been pretty lucky so far.
Rich
DaleB
Final Approach
Like any other oil change. I remember the first time I used Mobil 1 and let it go 10K, it came out awfully thick and black, and I swore off doing that again. That was well over 10 years ago, though. I just did oil changes in the Mercedes (V12, 10K miles) and the F150 (bi-turbo V6, 10K miles) and both looked fine. I was tempted to send samples off to Blackstone and see how well the oil was doing, but didn't this time. If I keep either one until their next oil change, I will for sure. But, I figure if the manufacturer is telling me 10K miles is OK to run with full synthetic, I'll believe them. It's in their interest for their vehicles to have a reputation for longevity, and not have 10 year old cars and trucks spewing oil smoke. If you see older cars from a particular manufacturer consistently leaving a blue cloud behind them (80s Chryslers come to mind), are you inclined to buy new from that manufacturer? I'm not.
Rotax specifies a 100 hour oil change interval when burning mogas. I was skeptical -- 100 hours sounds crazy. However, after sending two consecutive 100 hour oil samples off for analysis, I'm convinced. The reports are very reassuring.
flyingbrit
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flyingbrit
No idea about the previous owner. However if my two daughters are any indication, the OLM is quite the incentive when it starts nagging you.
Back in the day though, neglecting oil changes was certainly common. I found that out while overhauling two engines on antique vehicles. Worst was on a Chevy 235 which lubed the rocker arms with a hollow rocker shaft fed with oil. The shaft (about 5/16" i.d.) was completely choked with sludge and there was a good 1/16" of clearance between arms and shaft. I figure they had used non-detergent oil also, which was cheaper and readily available at the time.
Ted
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A similar trick I did on my Range Rover ('97 bought with 68k miles - super sludgy) was add some ATF and do a short oil change.
With that said, I've become less convinced that doing such heroic efforts necessarily increases the longevity of the engine over the time period that I'm likely to keep it. In roughly 20 years of vehicle ownership with probably something around 400k miles covered and 50 vehicles, I've only had one engine failure, and that was a thrown rod on a GM 6.5 turbo diesel. That may have been oil related if the construction company never changed the oil on it, but hard for me to say. It threw a rod one year and 30-35k miles after I bought it and for various reasons I think the damage was done before I bought it.
So, I think my summary is I wouldn't bother doing that again, and if the vehicle was bad enough I thought it needed that, I probably just shouldn't buy it.
DaleB
Final Approach
Amen to that. Two changes to my car buying habits in the past few years. First, I think my 2011 F150 will be the last new vehicle I buy -- ever. A year or two old, looking like brand new, with the teething issues already fixed and a five-figure amount lopped off the price is fine, thanks. I've really gotten over the whole new-car romance thing.
Second, I've become much, much more selective about what I will consider buying used. If it doesn't show that it's been exceptionally well cared for, someone else can have it. No matter what the car is, they made a whooooole bunch of them and I can find another one just like it - or better.
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SoonerAviator
Ran M1 sythetic in our TT 300ZX with 10K service intervals (WIX filters). Oil was dark, but flowed out just fine, as has been my experience with any synthetic. We owned it from about 80K miles to 140K miles. We did the 120K timing service and oil pan/pump/pickup at the 120K mark. Everything was clean on front and bottom of engine internals. Previous owner ran M1, but I don't know about his service intervals.
RJM62
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PaulS
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I run per the oil change lights in my cars, they supposedly account for how the car is driven. Typically the oil is dirty, as I would expect, but no signs of consumption or problems. I've had 3 hemi jeeps, including the one I have now. I typically keep them until about 100,000 miles, and the engines run just like they are new. It's the rest of the parts that start failing. My daughter has our 2005 acura MDX, same thing, about the same intervals. Almost 200,000 miles, doesn't burn a drop of oil, runs great.
Ted
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iFlyNothing
Fair point, although at this point even then I’d question it unless I was planning on a rebuild.
wsuffa
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Heard from a friend that they had just had the oil changed on an European import.... At nearly 25,000 miles. They forgot to have it done earlier. Shop said oil looked fine...
denverpilot
Tied Down
Might have been fun to send it off to Blackstone.
ktup-flyer
En-Route
One of the most reliable engines ever made though
ktup-flyer
En-Route
I change mine every 4-5k, but I drive it hard.
denverpilot
Tied Down
Tanks. I loved both of mine. They both leaked. I gave away the second XJ to my sister who badly needed wheels (different sisters than the essential oils and such one) and bought myself the Yukon I’m still driving at 178,000, but the two XJs were indestructible.
I even drove the first one for years after rolling it. Without repairing it. lol. That’s a different story for a different day. The 4.0 ran as good as it did on day one on both of them, and the second one, I drove it off the lot new.
Probably the last new car I’ll ever drive, since I was a fiscal idiot back then. Hahahaha.