High Oil Temp

Peter T Paras

Filing Flight Plan
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Mar 8, 2021
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Ptparcher
Hi, I have a Aztec E with IO-540-C4B5 engines ~1800hrs. Just bought the plane and the R engine oil temps have been consistently high ~240. Pressures on both engines normal and equal. I replaced the R engine oil guage which was a cessna guage, with the correct piper guage!! New guage continues to read high. New vernatherm was installed, no change, any suggestions on a plan to uncover the problem? Thanks!
 
Any chance your oil cooler(s) is filled with sludge?

Removal, cleaning, replacement is reasonably quick and easy on most and can have a positive effect.
 
Yup. Oil coolers can get internally coated with a varnish over time. It doesn't wash out. I had a 172 consistently redlining the oil temp until I finally took the cooler off and replaced it with another one from another airplane in the fleet. Temps went to normal. Bought a new cooler.

If that oil temp system in the Aztec is electrical, be aware that oil temp indications can be hijacked by poor engine-to-airframe grounding. The electron flow for the gauge is from the engine case, through the thermistor, and through the wire to the gauge, then to the bus, through the battery to ground and back to the engine case. The alternator's charging flow is into the case, to airframe ground, though the battery to the bus and back through the cable to the alternator's positive terminal. Now, if the engine's grounding to the airframe is the least bit compromised, the electrons start looking for alternate paths to ground, and they find it in engine control cables and stuff like the gauge circuit. That boosts the gauge circuit current flow and makes the gauge read high.

Engine grounds are often compromised. They get dirty, loose, corroded, and sometime a mechanic doesn't even clean the paint off the engine case at the cable's grounding point. Sometimes the ground is only to the engine mount, which has problems of its own where it bolts to the firewall.

Cessna issued an SB on it years ago, and called for a small wire to run from the engine case close to the thermistor all the way to the gauge's case. This is to eliminate any electrical potential between the two. It's a patch, not a proper fix; the real fix is to clean up all the grounding. Eventually the ground could get bad enough that starter current begins to run through control cables and other stuff and fries them.

Bad ground points can be located by taking voltage drop measurements across the suspect areas while someone cranks the engine. The huge current flow across small resistances will cause significant voltage drops.
 
any suggestions on a plan to uncover the problem?
Before you replace anymore parts, I'd first verify you have either an engine issue vs indicating issue. Is the RH CHT/EGT temps higher as well? What are the temp differences between the LH and RH engines? Before you go any farther I would also verify the accuracy of the RH indicating system by either removing the oil temp bulb and placing it in a hot oil bath with a separate thermometer, or, by sampling the actual oil temperature with a separate thermometer at a similar location on the engine as there's more to the oil temp indicating system than just the indicator. Once you can confirm it is an indicating or engine problem then you can move to the level step in trouble shooting.
 
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How's the air fed to that oil cooler? Maybe there is a leak in whatever path leads to the cooler - worn baffle seals, leaky SCAT, something like that.
 
I appreciate all the replies. Verifying the accuracy of the RH indicator today as well as removing and cleaning the Oil Cooler, will keep you posted.
 
Baffling was my issue with high engine oil temp.
 
Before you replace anymore parts, I'd first verify you have either an engine issue vs indicating issue. Is the RH CHT/EGT temps higher as well? What are the temp differences between the LH and RH engines? Before you go any farther I would also verify the accuracy of the RH indicating system by either removing the oil temp bulb and placing it in a hot oil bath with a separate thermometer, or, by sampling the actual oil temperature with a separate thermometer at a similar location on the engine as there's more to the oil temp indicating system than just the indicator. Once you can confirm it is an indicating or engine problem then you can move to the level step in trouble shooting.
The RH CHT/EGT are slightly higher but not abnormal. Oil temp difference between R/L is ~40'
 
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