Grass Strip Construction Progress

I would add "Cut it as short as possible before disturbing any dirt"...

Otherwise, the existing grass fibers will just cause <more> trouble in getting clumps and root balls to break-up.

True, the problem we had was it was so rough you couldnt even mow it.
 
I planted a grass runway on my farm in 1985. I didn't do any soil preparation beyond that which I normally do before planting wheat. My strip is 50 X 2850, and runs diagonally across a quarter section (a square 1/2 mile on a side) of farmland. The strip is aligned 10-28 and is at 3250 MSL.

Topography dictated the layout of my runway. My house and outbuildings are on the north side of the quarter. There is a shallow ridge which runs ENE/WSW across the quarter, and the ground slopes down to the N and S of the ridge. Since the ridge is pretty much aligned with the prevailing wind here, I just planted it to grass and called it a runway.

The strip is planted to a variety of grass called Fairway Crested Wheat Grass. Wheat grasses aren't the best choice for a runway because they don't form sod. These types of grasses grow back each spring from the root crowns, and these crowns form clumps over time. The only reason to use this type of grass here was because it is very drought tolerant. We only receive about 11-12" of precip a year, with about half of that coming during the growing season. More typical turf grasses won't survive in a climate that dry without irrigation, which isn't an option for me. I have avoided the clumping problem by planting the seed at a higher rate (more plants per square foot) than normal, and by rolling the strip every spring when the ground is wet. I roll the runway with a roller which I commandeer from the county road department (the roads in this area are all gravel surfaced). The roller is ten ft. wide and three ft. in diameter and filled with water. It's heavy, and takes about a 100 HP tractor to pull it. My strip isn't as smooth as the 15th fairway at the Lifted Pinky Golf and CC, but it isn't bad, either.

If an of you are ever wandering around along the Canadian border in N Central MT, drop in. The coordinates are on the Google Earth shot attached below.

Mark
 

Attachments

  • IM000838.JPG
    IM000838.JPG
    689.5 KB · Views: 51
  • IM000841.JPG
    IM000841.JPG
    602.5 KB · Views: 46
  • myfarm.jpg
    myfarm.jpg
    71.6 KB · Views: 51
We are putting 2000x70 on our farm, Starting with a 50acre pasture.
We have planted Round up ready soy beans in it this season and last. We are going to re-seed the entire pasture.
The reason for the RupR beans the last two growing season is to kill ALL the old grass and sod in the pasture for re seeding for better horse grass hay. We will use a different grass for the landing strip than for hay.
We Planted the beans early this spring to give us enough time to prep the Strip and seeded down to get a good seeding early fall (less weeds than spring seeding). The grass will be started well by winter and get a good head start for next year. We should be able to use it next summer.

What grass for strip, I am still trying to decide, probably a mix. I just do not want all cool season or all warm season grass. I also do not want any clump grasses.

I will mow with a 9ft hesston disc hay mower. I will just keep it cut it short, Cuts as good as any finish mower and FAST. The disc mower will also nock any gopher or mole mounds down.

I all ready have a Roller Packer 10 ft long 4 ft Dia.

I will also keep you posted this fall as we start the dirt work and seeding.

Jon
 
Rye grass used to be the preferred seed.
I have heard zoysia is now being used, but I don't know how they compare.

My yard is zoysia, which is a good compromise here in GA. It is slow growing (and therefore slow to repair itself if damaged). It is also somewhat less drought tolerant than the neighbor's bermuda.

In addition, it is far more expensive both in seed and sod form.

The other thing I'd say about zoysia is that from seed or sprigs, it would take a full growing season, maybe more, to establish a full lawn or airfield. Bermuda would do the same in 1/2 the time.

The obvious downside to bermuda is it requires more frequent cutting.
 
The obvious downside to bermuda is it requires more frequent cutting.

More than zoysia but less than any cool season grasses such as fescue or rye since Burmuda tends to grow sideways.

Like you alluded to, Bermuda is probably the best for "self healing". I've landed on quite a few Burmuda strips (including Gaston's) and they tend to be the smoothest.

I used a lot of centipede sod down south on commercial projects. It worked well, established itself quickly and was very drought tolertant. It worked great for yards but I don't know about airstrips. Kyle, do you know how suitable it might be for an airstrip down south?

Here in Missouri, zoysia or centipede isn't an option. In fact, we're on the northern edge of Bermuda territiory.
 
Last edited:
Rye grass used to be the preferred seed.
I have heard zoysia is now being used, but I don't know how they compare.
Hi Guys
Here is a update on my friends runway. It started out as a 1000 ft long runway with trees and power lines at both ends. Pretty tough going in and out even in a challenger 2. He seeded it with KB grass last year. He disked and rolled it and then hand raked the whole 1000 ft before planting grass. It has come in very well but it needs alot of water. Right now he is watering it from a 550 gallon tank with a pump all of it sitting on a trailer. Using around 1100 gallons a day and could use more.
This year he had the power lines buried and he is in the process of cutting down the trees that are a problem at the one end which will add about 400 more feet to his runway. His big problem now is still water, the land in Boyne City is mostly sand. His well at his home is 300 plus ft deep and cost him around 8K when he had it drilled around 12 years ago. A new well is not a option right now given the cost, so he fills his tank from his house well right now. He is thinking he might be able to dig a pond if he can find water close enough to the surface.

Regards Mike
 
Last edited:
Kyle, do you know how suitable it <centipede> might be for an airstrip down south?

I've never seen a grass strip of centipede. That may or may not tell you something. IMO, the big problem with centipede is that it is out-competed by crabgrass, zoysia, and bermuda, so it is very hard to maintain a monoculture. In addition, herbicides that kill crabgrass, the prevalent nuisance weed here, also kill centipede.

If I had all the bucks in the world, my grass strip would be bermuda, and would be kept like the fairways at the Augusta National.
 
Our lespedeza seems to be happy right now out on our two runways. It helps to balance out how poorly the fescue does in the heat of summer.
 
If money were no object, I'd just buy Augusta National and sell tee-times.

I've never seen a grass strip of centipede. That may or may not tell you something. IMO, the big problem with centipede is that it is out-competed by crabgrass, zoysia, and bermuda, so it is very hard to maintain a monoculture. In addition, herbicides that kill crabgrass, the prevalent nuisance weed here, also kill centipede.

If I had all the bucks in the world, my grass strip would be bermuda, and would be kept like the fairways at the Augusta National.
 
[cough] Fly-in bird hunt [cough] ;)

Might be in the future and or fly in Horseback/horse drawn wagon rides/fishing/shooting /camping. When I get it done we will do something.
 
This is not the way we did it ,but would now.
1. Soil sample to the area soil conservation dept. Find out what's missing.
2. To get rid of old root mass, kill by spraying, let die then roll under by plowing.
3. Disc ,disc, disc.
4. Have a road grader come in that has a laser.Level as much as you can,once the grass starts to grow ,there's no going back to level things out.
5. Use a mixture of grass that works in the area( we used a mixture of ryes and fescue for our U.P. sandy soil) rye is good for the first year for roots then the fescue takes over.
6. Don't cut it to short, you cut the leaf off leaving stems and it doesn't grow well.
7. Fertilize only if necessary, unless you love mowing.
8. Their are sprays that slow the growth, but are expensive.

Other things on our 2600ft x100 ft.
New Holland 40hp diesel w/6ft finish mower 3 hrs to cut,6hrs if I cut all parking/tie down area
Kubota 34hp diesel with 10 ft golf course 2:45 to cut
New Holland 40 hp diesel w/14ft finish batwing 1hr 15 min
The bigger the mower the more trimming.
I have a friend with a 2500'x 100' strip and with his Simplicity Zero turn he mows his in 45 min., that's what I would like to have except for the 10k cost.(I can do other things with the tractor, ie. brush hog, pull roller, etc.)
500 gal. propane tanks make great rollers
In most cases if you open your strip to the public, the landing area and taxi ways can be tax exempt, you can also get approach protection so no one builds tall structures close.
Maybe put it under a non profit corp ,as we did ,to limit your personal liability.
Buy stock in the companies that make Ben Gay and also Sunblock as you will be using a lot of it.:smile:
 
Back
Top