Found a truck...

Just a follow-on PIREP. Took the Subaru in for the 90-95K mile timing belt and prophylactic head gasket replacement this week so the truck has gotten a couple hundred miles on it.

Tom's right. Good lord that thing will be able to pull. Mike mentioned the only thing he ever regretted not ordering was slightly higher gear ratio. It turns 2100 RPM at 75 and is quieter and burns significantly less fuel at 65. But pulling something big, 65 is fine. It's right at its happy place at 1800-1900 RPM at 65 in 6th gear.

Having to relearn my shifting for both timing (why clutch? Just get your feet coordinated numbnuts!) and also used to the lower shift points of any diesel. Each gear is about 500 RPM so you're flicking through them pretty quick from a stop to highway speed. I'll have to dig in the service manual for the exact numbers but a few mixed highway and town drives and the old stick shift habits come back. Last manual transmission was my 6-cylinder F-150 in the early 90s and the occasional jaunt in dad's Miata.

One mildly annoying behavior but normal for what it is. The cruise control on a 2001 lags a bit. This leads to it chasing and running the turbo up and down and up and down. I'm way smoother than that silly thing but it's a very minor nitpick.

Oops gotta run. Wood pellet delivery!
 
Anyway, returning after the commercial break...

Had to run into town for something after the pellets were dropped off and the car, snowblowers, and other crap were moved back into the garage behind the pellet pallet.

Practiced shifting without the clutch some more. It handles that very nicely. Two fingers, click. Enough fuel to flat top around 2000, click out, count to two, click. Very nice. My own version of mimicking a CVT transmission. ;)

Did get a laugh at the credit union. It won't fit through the ATM drive thru. Well not comfortably enough that I'd try it anyway. ;)
 
I wandered West up I-70 far enough to see it pull Floyd Hill on I-70 unloaded. Holy crap. 6th gear, didn't even breathe hard all the way up to Idaho Springs. EGT around 950 max and boost about 10 and it just went up the hill without otherwise even noticing. Good lord. Now I'm looking forward to pulling something with it. Heh. Fun to hear the turbo really spool up and stay there. The Cummins exhaust brake is nicely effective on the big downhills too.

Been reading a ton on the model year and engine and what-not. Mike definitely did all the right things to it.

I'll have to ask if he overfilled the transmission through the top, that seems to be key to longevity there. Towing on grades, the normal fill hole is too low and leaves a bearing partially uncovered. Easy fix. Also looks like towing heavy in 5th gear for extended periods might be a no-no. 5th is the straight-through gear and the theory is that since there's no extra "cushioning" gear involved in 5th, it lashes a bit and tears itself up first. Usually the synchro goes first and you hear it start to die.

Radio installation is going to be entertaining with the shifter in the way. Right now the "wish list" includes the Yeasu FT-857, a Motorola Astro (State stuff), and maybe a MotoTRBO. Remote heads and radios under the seats would be best. Astro may not be able to be remoted, though. Still thinking. Also may be time to drill holes for NMO mounts. Seriously considering a Wilson cell amp also for our little dead spots out here in the boonies. With a good external antenna it should fill those in nicely. No good "cop console" options for the manual transmission variety of Ram, like I was building into the Yukon. (Anyone need a nice Havvis console for a late model Yukon? I pulled it and reverted the Yukon console back to stock. Heh.)

I set the alerts on the computer more conservatively than factory where Mike had them. Figure the truck's getting older so no reason to beat on it too much. EGT alarm at 1200F, lowered the transmission temp warning way down from the ridiculous 300F, limited boost to 30 max (factory limit on the Juice was 40!) with alarm a ways before that, set the alarm on RPM down off the redline a bit, etc. Fun box to play with. Still getting right foot coordinated to revs but rarely miss a gear and even downshifts are pretty painless with throttle only if enough time is available to pre-plan them. Clutches are cheaper than transmissions so I'm not getting too wild with power shifting it without the clutch, but it can be done.

It needs shocks but I knew that going in. Mike has the Rancho RS 9000 adjustables on it but they don't adjust anymore. Trying to decide if I like those enough to do them again or something else.
 
I wandered West up I-70 far enough to see it pull Floyd Hill on I-70 unloaded. Holy crap. 6th gear, didn't even breathe hard all the way up to Idaho Springs. EGT around 950 max and boost about 10 and it just went up the hill without otherwise even noticing. Good lord. Now I'm looking forward to pulling something with it. Heh. Fun to hear the turbo really spool up and stay there. The Cummins exhaust brake is nicely effective on the big downhills too.

Been reading a ton on the model year and engine and what-not. Mike definitely did all the right things to it.

I'll have to ask if he overfilled the transmission through the top, that seems to be key to longevity there. Towing on grades, the normal fill hole is too low and leaves a bearing partially uncovered. Easy fix. Also looks like towing heavy in 5th gear for extended periods might be a no-no. 5th is the straight-through gear and the theory is that since there's no extra "cushioning" gear involved in 5th, it lashes a bit and tears itself up first. Usually the synchro goes first and you hear it start to die.

Radio installation is going to be entertaining with the shifter in the way. Right now the "wish list" includes the Yeasu FT-857, a Motorola Astro (State stuff), and maybe a MotoTRBO. Remote heads and radios under the seats would be best. Astro may not be able to be remoted, though. Still thinking. Also may be time to drill holes for NMO mounts. Seriously considering a Wilson cell amp also for our little dead spots out here in the boonies. With a good external antenna it should fill those in nicely. No good "cop console" options for the manual transmission variety of Ram, like I was building into the Yukon. (Anyone need a nice Havvis console for a late model Yukon? I pulled it and reverted the Yukon console back to stock. Heh.)

I set the alerts on the computer more conservatively than factory where Mike had them. Figure the truck's getting older so no reason to beat on it too much. EGT alarm at 1200F, lowered the transmission temp warning way down from the ridiculous 300F, limited boost to 30 max (factory limit on the Juice was 40!) with alarm a ways before that, set the alarm on RPM down off the redline a bit, etc. Fun box to play with. Still getting right foot coordinated to revs but rarely miss a gear and even downshifts are pretty painless with throttle only if enough time is available to pre-plan them. Clutches are cheaper than transmissions so I'm not getting too wild with power shifting it without the clutch, but it can be done.

It needs shocks but I knew that going in. Mike has the Rancho RS 9000 adjustables on it but they don't adjust anymore. Trying to decide if I like those enough to do them again or something else.

I use Bilstein's. Really makes a heavy truck ride nice (or as nice as you can expect).
 
Don't recall if you've discussed this above or not ... but the NV4500 has a history of losing the 5th gear retaining nut, causing an ugly mess in the gearbox.

re: EGT - you only got 950* and 10" of boost up Floyd Hill? Load that puppy up and see what she'll do! I have to back off the throttle pulling my 5th wheel up the hill as my EGTs will shoot right past 1250* in a blink of an eye at 19" boost ... I need a bigger turbo or a set of MAXTORQ evil twins ... but haven't saved the shekels for those yet.

Next time you want to venture west, let me know and I'll introduce you and your truck to Rob at MAXTORQ performance ... you and your wallet can curse me later. There's no such thing as too much torque! :)

One of the dieselram chatter's sig reads "My lugnuts take more torque than your ricer makes" ... :D
 
Also looks like towing heavy in 5th gear for extended periods might be a no-no. 5th is the straight-through gear and the theory is that since there's no extra "cushioning" gear involved in 5th, it lashes a bit and tears itself up first. Usually the synchro goes first and you hear it start to die.

Nate-

Well I hate to wade into these waters, since diesel truck owners are a lot like pilots.

I would take the counterpoint on your 5th gear theory. IMO the key to transmission longevity is keeping the engine smoothly in the powerband especially when towing. Because if you are below the powerband say 1400RPM with your foot in it climbing a hill and the boost kicks in as the RPM's come up that is a lot of shock loading on the transmission. Modern tractors have defueling points for this very reason. While there may be some truth to the 5th gear support argument, it's always the stupid pedal that causes breakage in these trucks IMO.

Regardless of what you decide you have a good one there, enjoy it.
 
Nate-

Well I hate to wade into these waters, since diesel truck owners are a lot like pilots.

I would take the counterpoint on your 5th gear theory. IMO the key to transmission longevity is keeping the engine smoothly in the powerband especially when towing. Because if you are below the powerband say 1400RPM with your foot in it climbing a hill and the boost kicks in as the RPM's come up that is a lot of shock loading on the transmission. Modern tractors have defueling points for this very reason. While there may be some truth to the 5th gear support argument, it's always the stupid pedal that causes breakage in these trucks IMO.

Regardless of what you decide you have a good one there, enjoy it.

No argument here. Sure see a lot of guys tearing up nice equipment on YouTube. Kinda matches aviation. Pilot causes the most problems. ;)

Doing my homework on trailers and whatnot, sure seems like there's a lot of folk out there yanking around trailers way over their GCVWR or single axle limits by a large margin. There's no way those guys with the 40' toy haulers with a Smartcar in the garage are staying even remotely in the numbers range for a one-ton. They should be pulling those with something bigger.
 
Doing my homework on trailers and whatnot, sure seems like there's a lot of folk out there yanking around trailers way over their GCVWR or single axle limits by a large margin. There's no way those guys with the 40' toy haulers with a Smartcar in the garage are staying even remotely in the numbers range for a one-ton. They should be pulling those with something bigger.

Maybe ya aught'a see some of what we do with tonner's and trailers in the patch? We don't have to worry about highway limits on the private roads so if it will fit on the trailer we can try to pull it. Even did the TV commercial of pull the loaded semi out of the mudhole thing last Tuesday night. Pick-ups have come a long ways in the past 30 years or so.
 
No argument here. Sure see a lot of guys tearing up nice equipment on YouTube. Kinda matches aviation. Pilot causes the most problems. ;)

Doing my homework on trailers and whatnot, sure seems like there's a lot of folk out there yanking around trailers way over their GCVWR or single axle limits by a large margin. There's no way those guys with the 40' toy haulers with a Smartcar in the garage are staying even remotely in the numbers range for a one-ton. They should be pulling those with something bigger.

I agree 100%. Pickup guys always want to talk about the engine, I make x horsepower, etc. Towing IMO requires a balanced tractor designed for the load. Generally all manufacturers use the same engine and transmission in the 2500/3500 as they do 4500/5500. The difference is in the chassis. Frame, brakes, tires, etc. Look at an e-rated tire for your truck about 3,500lb. capacity per tire. Look at the tires on a 4500/5500 chassis about 5,000lb. So just on the tractor alone the tires can carry an additional 9K.
 
Maybe ya aught'a see some of what we do with tonner's and trailers in the patch? We don't have to worry about highway limits on the private roads so if it will fit on the trailer we can try to pull it. Even did the TV commercial of pull the loaded semi out of the mudhole thing last Tuesday night. Pick-ups have come a long ways in the past 30 years or so.

Oh I know the rules change with Farm plates or off the road... One of my buddies was e-mailing me photos of his 454-equipped Chevy he uses to haul water tanks around on his farm today... he was slightly jealous of the Cummins... and his 454 developed the dreaded GM knock the last time he had it out and about, so he's looking for a weekend to do a tear-down and overhaul on it.

There's some fun videos of the Dodges pulling farm equipment around on YT also... my particular favorite is some guy who has two tractors on a flatbed and you can count seconds in his acceleration on-road to take them to the other end of the farm in seconds per 100 RPM. That's a big load to take that long... pretty sure he had it floored. :)

Was reading up on rules and see that some folks in some States can apply for a higher GCVWR if they pay the additional road taxes for it, and as long as they don't have any pecuniary interest, can go pretty high. With a business interest, they may require a DOT number and all the DOT toys (orange triangles, etc) on board, since they become a commercial operator. As I was reading this stuff, I was thinking to myself, "This is as bad as the FARs...", heh heh.
 
I agree 100%. Pickup guys always want to talk about the engine, I make x horsepower, etc. Towing IMO requires a balanced tractor designed for the load. Generally all manufacturers use the same engine and transmission in the 2500/3500 as they do 4500/5500. The difference is in the chassis. Frame, brakes, tires, etc. Look at an e-rated tire for your truck about 3,500lb. capacity per tire. Look at the tires on a 4500/5500 chassis about 5,000lb. So just on the tractor alone the tires can carry an additional 9K.

The commonly bantered question always is, "Sure you can two XXXXXX pounds, but can you STOP?"

I haven't gotten on the beast's brakes hard enough yet to trigger the ABS... was thinking I should go lock it up on the gravel road out here, just to make sure the ABS is working and at least feel/hear what it sounds like in that thing so there will be "instant recognition" if it's happening in real-life.

Been poking at various RV forums, reading up on the trailers... I think it's too soon for us to buy a heavily customized trailer set up for "full-timing" but it's fun to look at features and differences.

Minor-side note: I find the cheapness of the decals that everyone's using on trailers these days (instead of boring old paint) to be mildly annoying. Seems like a ploy to make used trailers that were stored outside, just look awful, even after just a few years.
 
Was reading up on rules and see that some folks in some States can apply for a higher GCVWR if they pay the additional road taxes for it, and as long as they don't have any pecuniary interest, can go pretty high. With a business interest, they may require a DOT number and all the DOT toys (orange triangles, etc) on board, since they become a commercial operator. As I was reading this stuff, I was thinking to myself, "This is as bad as the FARs...", heh heh.

Wyoming is pretty lenient for the little trucks but as soon as a state line is crossed we're in the DOT world. Unfortunately for us all the county sheriffs known that so it's best if we stay out of Colorado with our Wyoming tagged tonner. All I can say is that the enforcement policy limits the amount of business ($$$ spent) we do in Colorado.
 
Reviving this old thread with new news...

We shouldn't have gone to a dealer lot to look at used 5ers. We ended up deciding a new one was how we wanted to start. I like to blame Karen, but I was sucked in by new also.

Winter RV show pricing. Not a super popular model since it's not decked out for bejillion of small offspring, so got a reasonable deal on it. Not stellar but we wanted to work with a particular dealer who has a good reputation on warranty repairs and other service. (Some dealers seriously suck. Buyer beware. Read forums before you do any business with any of them.)

So... Now it's a toss up as to whether we fly or drive to OSH this year. ;)

Factory photo. We pick up on Thursday. 2014 Keystone Laredo 312RE.

ejena2yr.jpg


I've been hiding over on the Keystone forums (Well, a certain POAer with a penchant for Dodge diesels and His own Keystone said hi over there... Heh... I love that it's a small world!) reading up on typical problems, common modifications, and over-studying everything like I always do.

One step at a time... Called the insurance agent and got the coverage started for Thursday, today, and made up some 4 x 6 chicks/jack blocks and spray painted them bright yellow...

Gotta lube up the hitch tomorrow. The rest of the truck is ready.

I suspect we will do some dry camping with it, so still deciding on generator...

The dealer will happily install ($$$) an Onan in the front compartment and appropriate controls. Propane powered off the coach tanks. Just push a button and forget about it.

But the geek in me likes Hondas. And Honda doesn't make many on board gensets. And the geek likes that the Hondas can be used for other stuff besides the trailer.

So then it becomes the dual -EU2000si's ganged together, or a single. EU3000si question.

The 3000 is a beast to move around and pretty sure it won't fit underneath the trailer in the storage pass through, so it has to be messed around more with, getting it in/out of the truck bed. Heavy beast. May know more after measuring stuff.

Well anyway. Maybe the party barge will wander to Wisconsin this summer.
 
Nate-

Congrads very nice.

Will 3k run your A/C units? I would think about the Honda eu6500is with a tri-fuel setup. You can get remotes for those and the whole works. VERY quiet also.

Here's the way to solve your problem. Karen drives to Osh. early, sets everything up, then you fly up at your leisure.
 
Congrats! I know nothing about them RV thingies so it sounds awesome! :)

I suggest buying a cargo aircraft so you can fly to OSH and have the RV there to! Only money right?

David


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
I have the Laredo 245RL - my Honda 2000 won't start the a/c. I bought a hard start capacitor for the a/c but have yet to install it. When I boondock I don't need a/c - high altitude or late in the year so it's cool. Most of the rest of the time we have hookups, so it's not become a priority yet.

My last RV (class C) had a built in Onan 4k genset. I liked the convenience of built in - push button start, nothing to mess with, etc, but the convenience and low low noise of the Honda is awesome.

Get the Teflon hitch disk and don't worry about greasing your plate - no muss, no fuss! Still have to grease the kingpin and internals of the hitch but that's much easier and cleaner than the whole plate.
 
Nate-

Congrads very nice.

Will 3k run your A/C units? I would think about the Honda eu6500is with a tri-fuel setup. You can get remotes for those and the whole works. VERY quiet also.

Here's the way to solve your problem. Karen drives to Osh. early, sets everything up, then you fly up at your leisure.

3k will run A unit typically, barely, most use 2500.
 
Will 3k run your A/C units? I would think about the Honda eu6500is with a tri-fuel setup. You can get remotes for those and the whole works. VERY quiet also.



Here's the way to solve your problem. Karen drives to Osh. early, sets everything up, then you fly up at your leisure.



I suggest buying a cargo aircraft so you can fly to OSH and have the RV there to! Only money right?


I like the 6000 but it's overkill. It also weighs 260 lbs dry and won't fit in the trailer anywhere. Yikes!

I've heard of people mounting them in welded-on boxes at the rear of the trailer (added bonus, it moves the CG of the trailer rearward and gets some weight off the pin of the tow vehicle, but just like flying, you don't want the trailer tail heavy or it'll get as squirrelly as an out of CG rearward airplane!), but not going to go there... yet.

Karen won't be driving the rig... yet. She's never done manual transmissions.

We were talking tonight about a training program for her for learning to drive the truck and then working up to the "Nate had a medical issue, they dragged him to a hospital, and you need to get this silly rig to a Walmart parking lot, park it, drop the trailer, and then drive the truck to the hospital" type scenario.

Realistically someone would probably help her out. But she thought she'd be better off knowing herself how to do it, so we're planning some practice.

And prior to that we are headed for a parking lot to practice something even more difficult... Learning how to direct the rig driver into a parking spot backwards. We had a little "experience" with that this last summer with the oversized cargo trailer and most of the problem was me assuming she had done it before with her family and their trailers, but she was the baby of the family and her dad and older brothers did it.

So... Practice. We'll go practice. Take along some markers and pretend they're the electric pedestal and trees and things you don't want to hit in a nice empty parking lot.

Plus I've always pulled big bumper tows, so I need some wheel time to get my head wrapped around backing a 5er and not hitting the cab in a tight turn. Ha. I also need to learn just how tight I can get stuck and still jackknife it and turn it around.

Would be helpful to find a big gravel lot or a recently graveled parking lot to not tear up the trailer tires too badly. But from what I'm reading about the stock tires, they're crap anyway.

The thread about them on the RV forum is titled "Chinabombs". So, tire shopping in a year or so is probably on the list of future upgrades. :)
 
You shouldn't hit the cab until you're acute of jackknife unless you have a shortbed, if there is an interference problem, they make a sliding 5th wheel to slide aft for maneuvering.
 
The Laredo models have a rounded nose cap and the 5er hitch pin is extended forward. In a long bed you should be able to turn at least 90° or more without hitting the cab.

Coming from a bumper pull the biggest thing to remember a bumper pull will follow very closely in a turn, but a 5er will cut inside considerably. Truck should always overshoot the turn a bit.

Also - MEASURE, VERIFY and remember your height to top of A/C shroud - beware of gas station canopies, low branches, etc. I stuck a label with my height on my sun visor to remind me. Thinking about making a label with reverse letters and sticking it on the trailer so I see it in the mirror every time I look back.
 
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Understand. It's an 8' bed and the new 5th wheels have rounded noses to help out the shortbed folks so shouldn't be a problem.

Also thanks for confirmation on the Teflon ring thing Greg. We'll hit up someplace and just start with one. Haven't seen anyone unhappy with them.

Here's hoping the paint dries enough to take my homemade chocks / jacking blocks in the 40F temps in the garage tonight. Sigh. I'd blow a heater at them overnight but the heater is over at the hangar. :)
 
Windish threw in a starter pack as part of the deal ... sewer hose, teflon disk, and a few other dodads that I can't remember now. See post above yours for other edits.
 
Understand. It's an 8' bed and the new 5th wheels have rounded noses to help out the shortbed folks so shouldn't be a problem.

Also thanks for confirmation on the Teflon ring thing Greg. We'll hit up someplace and just start with one. Haven't seen anyone unhappy with them.

Here's hoping the paint dries enough to take my homemade chocks / jacking blocks in the 40F temps in the garage tonight. Sigh. I'd blow a heater at them overnight but the heater is over at the hangar. :)

Doesn't the trailer already have one? When I was pulling them for Quality DriveAway a decade ago they all came from the factory with one, at least the ones built in Goshen and Shipshewana did. Also, it won't cut into a parking space as tight as a bumper pull will either since you don't have the 3' of knuckle between the axle and hitch, which is also why they pull nicer down the highway and won't whip you when the CG gets a bit aft.
 
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Windish threw in a starter pack as part of the deal ... sewer hose, teflon disk, and a few other dodads that I can't remember now. See post above yours for other edits.


Ahh. Interesting. Just learned that "Refresh" on Tapatalk doesn't pick up edited post changes. Web view works if you know there was a change made though. :)

Height... Yeah, I saw someone else say to post the height on the visor, the dash, and right over the stereo too with post-its. And measuring and confirming sounds like a good idea. Tomorrow will be no overhangs and no gas stations so I'll just concentrate on getting the darn thing home without needing to exercise the brand new add on to the insurance policy. Ha.

Speaking of that, here's a chuckle. I was looking at Good Sam's insurance info on their website as part of the research a while back. Then I hunted down my insurance company's marketing webpage for their trailer coverage and laughed.

The underwriter must be identical. Not only was the coverage exactly the same, but the exact words/copy were on both webpages.

That or one of the two companies has a VERY lazy website copy writer. Haha. Cut and paste rulez!!! ;)


Doesn't the trailer already have one? When I was pulling them for Quality DriveAway a decade ago they all came from the factory with one, at least the ones built in Goshen and Shipshewana did. Also, it won't cut into a parking space as tight as a bumper pull will either since you don't have the 3' of knuckle between the axle and hitch, which is also why they pull nicer down the highway and won't whip you when the CG gets a bit aft.


If you mean the disc thing, no. Frankly the industry is going through the destruction of multiple companies that used to compete with M&A activity already having occurred in the economic downturn. Companies who competed with things like better frame builds (SunnyBrooke) and other labor intensive or expensive stuff either were bought by bigger players (in the case of SunnyBrooke, Winnebago bought them), or flat out died. Kinda like aviation after the 70s but with massive mergers. Two things resulted, as best as I can tell.

1. The industry survived but most trailers are made all within a 25 mile radius of the same town in Illinois for the most part.

2. They're all built about the same unless you go for a really high end luxury brand and you'll probably need a true tractor (day hauler type with or without a sleeper cab) to pull the thing and in some states, a CDL. The "regular" end of the market is suffering from mass production syndromes and getting a bit sloppy on details.

Case in point: Most trailers now tout "ducted" vents in the floor and ceiling for heating and cooling. Sounds nice, right? Well, in reality it's not ductwork. It's dryer vent hose to lower weight so 1/2 ton trucks can pull ever larger trailers, and lower costs. And it's usually not installed very well. A number of people report vents that seem to get low airflow, and upon pulling the belly covering off or tearing into the ceiling find that a 20' dryer hose was used to run 13' and the extra is coiled up and smashed on top of itself in some rigs. Others the installer took their time.

The diehards just immediately tear apart their trailers as soon as the 1 year warranty is up or sooner, and re-run troublesome ducts, electrical wiring, whatever they find that looks shoddy. And with most trailers coming from a small number of giant conglomerate's factories, they're all coming off the line with similar little problems like that.

Frankly, we've new tent or pop-up campers for most of our lives. (Good memories of one of my sets of grandparents having a very small hard-sided Aspen back in the day. Good fishing trips with grandpa in that thing.

So how should I put this? Having a relatively decent bed, any heat at all, and carpeted floors to walk on to go take the morning leak after cranking up the coffee pot? We're already feeling like royalty. Ha. It's camping for goodness sakes!

So anyway, the mergers also mean the companies are cutting every possible corner to save a buck. Like Greg said, a good dealer will price such that they can throw in some of the stuff a manufacturer might have tossed in a few years ago. (And often their starter kits are "okay" stuff that'll get you by until you shop for some better stuff, like upgraded sewer hoses with better thickness and more solid connectors. Or realize the water line they threw in is falling apart and too short for regular use. Stuff like that. They just want you to have a successful first outing so you're hooked and then your wallet can go wandering through their attached store or Amazon or Camping World later on. Ha.

(Camping World : the Walmart of RVing. Big Corporate entity. Everywhere. All roads lead to a CW somewhere. Seemingly everyone ends up at one eventually for something. Technically they also are a dealer too, but individual locations vary wildly on quality of service, and their pricing on RVs is all over the map.)

This type of camping is more like dragging a small drafty house around, than what we're used to. One floor vent not blowing well? We might not have even noticed or known about the ductwork problems, if we hadn't found photos of the stupid messy duct installations on the Interwebz! Forums on RVing are as useful as this place jumping on a student pilot. Opinions and level of DIY projects are quite varied.

We honeymooned in a pop-up. All over the Desert Southwest. We were broke. Gas money and grocery money and a borrowed trailer from Karen's folks at the time, was plenty good for us. (We later co-owned that pop-up with local siblings of Karen's and that darn 1984 Coleman just wouldn't die. Until it did. It literally started disintegrating on Karen's brother on a recent West Coast trip.

It destroyed itself so well he had to find a place to scrap it mid-trip. "Hi, um, we need to dispose of an old travel trailer. No, we don't live here. Is there a place I can tow it to and drop it?" Seriously. It was that bad. We got a phone call with little detail asking if it was okay to scrap it, and we agreed after a brief description of the carnage.

Family got their money's worth and more out of that thing. We weren't the only honeymooners it housed in its lifespan, either. Quite the little beast it was.

So. That in mind... This new trailer is already beyond our wildest dreams. For fun one night when I was looking at trailers, I showed Karen one of the luxury 5th wheel trailers. Her mouth kinda just dropped open. "That's nicer that our house!" Ha. Yep.

Here's a laugh. I think the trailer has a bigger TV than any of the TVs in the house! Maybe we'll fire it up on shore power and watch the Super Bowl in it. LOL! Get the dog used to hanging out in it. Ha.
 
Nate-

Last pitch for a bigger generator, then I'll drop it. IF you travel anywhere in the South during summer I will expect you'll want the second A/C if you don't have the option now. In that case you will need more generator. Also, think multiple uses. Put the genie on a tilt down type deck, like you use for a lawn mower on the back of the trailer. Roll it down and into the garage when you want a backup for the house (probably a good place to store it so it doesn't walk off). It will also run on LP, Gas, and NG so no old gas hassles. There you go, dual use and upgrade ready, that should appeal to a sys. admin like yourself.:)

Looks like a lot of fun, you'll have to give some trip reports.
 
Indiana, the majority are built in Shipshewana, Goshen, or Elkhart Indiana, all there in Amish Central, in fact, the majority of the labor pool that builds these things is Amish; several different lines may come off the same shop floor. I used to deliver them new to the dealers, watched one look at the invoice, double it, and make the price tag for it.

BTW, look at the height of the airconditioner as well, it's often the highest thing (with the antenna down).
 
1. The industry survived but most trailers are made all within a 25 mile radius of the same town in Illinois for the most part.

Naah, Indiana. RV's and cargo trailers all seem to be built in northern Indiana for some odd reason. :dunno:

2. They're all built about the same unless you go for a really high end luxury brand and you'll probably need a true tractor (day hauler type with or without a sleeper cab) to pull the thing and in some states, a CDL.

Doubtful you'd need a CDL anywhere. The CDL laws were standardized by the Feds in about 1996 to avoid too many differences causing issues with interstate commerce. Generally, you don't need a CDL for anything (except hazmat or >15pax) unless it's over 26,000 pounds or has a trailer over 10,000 pounds (both max GVWR). And, the 26,000 doesn't include the trailer, so you can have a 26,000 pound tow vehicle AND a 10,000 pound trailer and still not need a CDL, even if it's used in commerce. And you'd have to have one of those super-huge custom-built RV sleeper tractors before you'd hit 26,000 with it (a normal semi tractor with a full condo sleeper is about 17,000 or 18,000).

But - The fact that you are a private individual not engaging in commerce means you can have a vehicle that would otherwise require a CDL without needing a CDL. For example Nate, you know Mike M in Chicago - His RV is >26,000 but he doesn't need a CDL for it. You can buy a full-size 45 foot motor coach as your RV and not need a CDL for it. You could buy a full-size tractor-trailer and do all your own custom outfitting and not need a CDL for it - Though in that case it'd be wise to put a big "NOT FOR HIRE" down the side so that the state patrol doesn't chase you down every time you skip a weigh station. ;)

Congrats on the rig, though - I keep thinking I'm going to buy a used one to use for OSH but I'd need something bigger to tow it with and I'd need a place to store it and... Yeah, it'll be at least a couple more years of slummin' it in a tent in Scholler or the North 40 for me. ;)

You realize that now you'll have no excuse for not making it to OSH, right?
 
Cool info guys. Yeah. Indiana. Brain fart. At least I got the first letter right? Ha.

Well, we got it home. Easiest towing I've ever done. Dodge didn't even care it was back there other than foot further toward the floor. Stick shift is nice as is the exhaust brake.
 
Cool info guys. Yeah. Indiana. Brain fart. At least I got the first letter right? Ha.

Well, we got it home. Easiest towing I've ever done. Dodge didn't even care it was back there other than foot further toward the floor. Stick shift is nice as is the exhaust brake.

Here's the deal, never use the overdrive gear above half throttle. If you're climbing a hill just go to half throttle and let it slow until you can shift into direct drive, usually 4th gear.
 
Here's the deal, never use the overdrive gear above half throttle. If you're climbing a hill just go to half throttle and let it slow until you can shift into direct drive, usually 4th gear.


Yeah, knew that. Or the old "if it won't accelerate set half throttle, you need another gear" rule of thumb.
 
Yeah, knew that. Or the old "if it won't accelerate set half throttle, you need another gear" rule of thumb.

Yeah, it's important with those transmissions though, the engine is stronger than the transmission and full torque on the input shaft to cluster gear when in over drive will do it in. BTDT:rolleyes: If you do blow it up, there is a conversion for the Clark 7 speed from school busses that's pretty bullet proof.
 
Yeah, it's important with those transmissions though, the engine is stronger than the transmission and full torque on the input shaft to cluster gear when in over drive will do it in. BTDT:rolleyes: If you do blow it up, there is a conversion for the Clark 7 speed from school busses that's pretty bullet proof.


Yeah, the five speed also has a known problem of destroying fifth and snapping input shafts.

This is the NV5600 six speed, which is better, but still underrated for the torque. Actually it's not underrated too badly for the Dodge stock ECU tuning, but with a box, you're bumping the torque into the safety margin.

On the 5600, people tear up the synchros on it trying to shift it like a rig without the clutch, instead of using the clutch to full extension every shift. The synchros on 1 and 2 are different and make for easy low speed shifts, but people try to force it holding pressure against the synchros while waiting for things to line up, and they make a lot of metal and wear them out too soon. Then they get hard to shift and people push harder.

The other common failure is the bearings for 5th and 6th. Most people recommend overfilling this particular tranny and you have to do it by removing the shift tower and pouring it down the hole. The drain plug is too low and 5 and 6 don't get enough lube. Heat then kills the bearings. One common attempt to fix that by good rebuilders is to drill additional oil holes to allow more oil to reach the problem areas, but a design flaw is a design flaw. Dodge should have used a Fuller transmission and a 17" flywheel instead of the 13", but they knew the added weight was a problem for their chassis and suspension.

5th is the 1:1 direct drive gear on the 5600. It's the best bet for towing in changing faster speed conditions unless it's lugging, then head for 4th. 6th is an overdrive and not well suited to acceleration with heavy loads, especially considering that it's often starved for oil and heat kills it. Fine for flatland towing though.

With the box on the truck, the previous owner added a tranny temp gauge, so I can limit temps or just shut down and let things cool off if it's getting insane. Noticed trans temp was about 20 deg higher towing than without a load. Runs about 120F on a 32F day not towing, and 140F with the trailer on. The real test is a blistering summer day. We'll see. I suspect he added the temp gauge the easy way, by adding an upgraded transmission cooler. (No place without welding on a threaded block to put the trans temp probe on the trans itself. Way easier to just add a bigger cooler and get one with a temp probe threaded hole on it.)

I'm betting next time I'm under there I'll find this:
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FC-6-SPD-DG

Having looked over the rebuild manual and exploded diagram, I want nothing to do with attempting a quality rebuild on a used transmission by myself on this one. I've done one manual and they're just a PITA. A 350 lb manual stored somewhere for "that day" also sucks unless you have a place in a shop for it, on the ground. Otherwise I'd shop for a dead one and start on a project to build up a spare. Crap-tons of little details that can be missed in the rebuild that will bomb the newly installed tranny in the first 10K miles. Needs solid manual transmission expertise, preferably on this specific model.

No friends with that expertise (well, except some of y'all online-type buds) that I can tap locally, so a quality rebuild from a good shop will be in order if/when it blows something. It is very likely to someday. If you're not playing horsepower and added torque games too heavily, they usually make it to 200K, as does the clutch. Then you budget to upgrade the whole thing from the flywheel back to the driveshaft, and it'll outlast the rest of the suspension on any Dodge. Especially steering related stuff. Dodge's steering on this truck is notorious for getting sloppy after a while, and needing someone who knows what worn out parts to replace.

The clutch is the weakest link in the whole system, from what I've read and many people put an upgraded clutch in after the factory one goes.

Differentials, he put the oversized Mag-Hytec pans on them with dipsticks and additional cooling area. Helps a lot, makes them fairly bomb-proof. Just use a good oil.
 
Call Rob at maxtorque performance. I think I posted his contact info somewhere in this thread. Better yet, some day you have some free time come on over to golden and I'll introduce you. He's the go-to guy on this stuff. He can help you plan the someday tranny rebuild. He might have his triple turbo setup running and demo a ride better than a Disney E ticket just for a diversion. :)
 
Sounds like he's having fun.

We towed for about three hours last night. Ha. Wasn't totally planned.

Got myself turned around on back roads near Bennett (also found out the trailer screws with the truck's on board compass! Ha! Need a deviation card!) and down some roads near Brighton where I was thinking (I better go further north. I know 104th and 144th go all the way through with no low bridges!)

At one point on the Kiowa-Bennett road I look back and see the damn trailer is unlighted / and of course that means the brakes are disconnected too. Pull over, whack the dang in-bed connector harder and get the little plastic lock on the plug cover to engage properly and actually hear the alternator put a load on the truck when I got it reconnected. Stupid connector is really tight which is usually a Good Thing unless you didn't get it in far enough for the lock to engage. ;)

Anyway after unscrewing the navigation we took her over to TA to the Cat scales. (Originally we were headed to Bennett to the Cat there at Love's but CO-2 was simpler from the "unscrewed nav" location. Heh.

With only essential tools, and no water or household items on board, the combined rig weighs in at about 18,000 lbs. (I didn't park right on the scales to get the front and rear axles of the pickup correct -- newbie! -- but right now she's balanced about right but slightly nose heavy with the truck at just over 10,000 lbs and still within axle and payload limits and the trailer at 8300 on her axles.

Going to want to load the trailer over the trucks/aft as much as practicable. (Freshwater tank is right over the axle. Grey water right near there, black water forward.)

That idea of having a platform welded to the back for a Honda EU3000si is starting to look like the right idea. :) Take off a little pin weight.

So now we have a baseline so we can re-weigh after finishing loading and filling the H2O tank later.

Was feeling good about how it pulled and held a lane so we came down Quebec to Parker Rd to head home. I wouldn't do that route after the trees have leaves!

Heh. Didn't hit any branches. :)

You should see the BMWs and Mercedes Benz drivers scatter when they see 40' of truck and trailer cruising through the curves at Cherry Creek. LOL!

Me, I'm just watching in my mirrors and loving how well the trailer tracks right where I want to put it. I'm never going back to a bumper tow ever again! 5er towing is a wonderful thing!

The "funny" of the evening was me standing on the running board on my tippy-toes to reach the call button on the Cat Scale. Haha. And when asked for my truck number and explaining we were a pickup truck and RV trailer, the lady said "Ok, I'll put you in as #1". LOL.

That's right. We're #1!

Other items of note, after three hours and a brief stop to weigh, towing, trans temp settled at 175 on a 50F night. That's going to need a close eye on a 90F day. Truck thermostat is at 190F and in stop light style traffic it would bump above 190 by a hair and then return as soon as airflow resumed. Another one to watch.

She'll pull at 65 MPH but is too low geared to make that ok for hills. Pretty much have to use 6th gear at that speed and knowing the NV5600 doesn't like that too much, it's reserved for flatland. 5th purrs along at. 2100 RPM at 55 MPH and has plenty of reserve torque for hills.

Yeah I'm over-sharing. Just enjoying the hell out of learning new numbers. Kinda like doing a mini IFR rating. Bunch of little details to watch. Love, love, love having the Juice box display so I can eyeball all of it. I can't believe folks tow with this truck stock and no gauges. Ugh!

Oh yeah, did put the Juice in stock mode for a little bit. Still pulls fine but definitely see the difference in adding 60 HP and 200 ft/lbs of torque in Tow Mode. Much nicer balance in how it responds from a dead stop, than stock.

One other oddity. I can't get the Prodigy controller to lock/slide the trailer brakes on even 100% braking by forcing the lever to full. I'm going to need to measure the output voltage and see if it's the controller or if the trailer brakes are just weak for the weight. They come close to lockup but even on dirt I can't make them slide in tests. So the silly controller had to be set to 95% power for full braking. It's a progressive controller with accelerometer and typically if I glanced at it under hard braking with the "boost" set to max it would say it was doing about 80%. I took it over to the County road on pavement and did a couple of panic stops that got the ABS going on the truck and it stops fine and in what I would say is a reasonable distance for an 18,000 lb rig, but I was always taught to find the setting where the trailer would lock up and then set 10% or so below that. I can't lock them up.

That or maybe the dealer never adjusted the darn brakes after towing it out here. Something else to check... If you want it done right...

Could also try the other RV connection on the bumper and/or see how the ground potential between the truck and trailer is. Could just be electrical wimpiness. It's a long way back to the brakes and what do you bet Keystone used the smallest gauge wire they could get away with? :)

(Could also pull it to Greg's house and hitch it to his truck and see if we can lock the brakes on it with his controller! Ha. Kinda the hard way to split the troubleshooting between the trailer and the truck but strangely fun. Ha!)
 
You know, it just dawned on me I could just go to a parking lot and pull the safety pin on the brakes and see if they lock up that way too. Duh. Sounds like a quick Walmart trip today prior to dropping the landing gear and unhitching it, since we left it hooked up last night. :)
 
I've got the Prodigy P3 - will lock trailer brakes with the manual handle easily. I set mine at ... Hmmm don't remember now for sure ... I think it's at 4.5 and B2 or B3 ...

Yeah, did the same trick at the scales. Opened the door and stood on the running board to reach the call button. It was a slow day so I dropped the trailer there and re-weighed empty - I think it was only $5 for the second weight - used the cat scales at the truck stop at I-70 and Ward rd.
 
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Do you have 4:56 gears? That's awfully slow.


I'm starting to wonder if they're the 4.10. I played with a spreadsheet some guy made and speeds and gears seemed closer to 3.53 than 4.10 but Dodge also makes a 3.73 in-between option. Not sure if it was available in 2001.

There's supposed to be a sticker under the hood that says what the gears are. I've already been under the truck and all you get from that is that it's a Dana 80. Could be tire size but they're supposedly the same size as stock but I know different manufacturers can be a bit off on those. Speedometer is exactly 1 MPH slow per GPS.

So basically, I haven't quite figured it out yet.

Have the original factory sticker and it doesn't show anything non-stock drivetrain-wise except that the truck has the "camper" package which is a rear suspension thing. Not supposed to indicate the gear ratio, as far as my research so far has shown.
 
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