bnt83
Final Approach
Wouldn't an old leaky magneto capacitor, internal to the magneto, create a pile of noise?
Flybaby is flying again
- Thread starter jesse
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wanttaja
En-Route
Keep in mind that the airframe in this case is made of wood.... grounding to it doesn't do much.
Ron Wanttaja
Tom-D
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Internal to the mag, means it is inside of a metal case.
Slicks have a cap contained with in the case and you hook the P lead to it when you attach the wire.
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Tom-D
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When the Bendix type mag switch is wired correctly it is its own complete circuit for each mag containing the positive and negative side of the circuit, by using the shielding as the negative.
IOWs it uses the shielding to short circuit the P lead post to the case it self.
bnt83
Final Approach
Did not answer the question....
RogerT
Cleared for Takeoff
On mine grounding the P leads and using a big capacitor on the 12v bus seemed to make a difference
RT
RT
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SteveR
Pre-takeoff checklist
Jim, is your antenna book still available anywhere? I bought a copy several years ago and it is great. I occasionally recommend it to people who are building their own antennas or working on their radios, but I don't know where they can order a copy anymore.
jesse
Touchdown! Greaser!
FAA says a single nicopress is all you need and you have full cable strength. Accepted practice in their eyes at least.
If I had a reasonably safe way to do it i would love to build up a replica of what I have and see what it takes to break it.
Tom-D
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there is a ships rigging company in Anacortes Wa that will do the test for ya.
if you are really into that google them. "Northwest rigging"
bnt83
Final Approach
I had the opportunity to use a hydraulic pull tester at the school I attended for A&P. I fabricated a complete set of cables for a Cessna 150 while there, including a few dummy nicopress, and none failed the pull test. If you use the correct tooling, hardware and process, its pretty much idiot proof.
Tensioning while installing them in pairs to make sure they share the load is more important than worrying about the strength when you assembled the cables correctly.
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bnt83
Final Approach
You have a truck? Bolt one end to the foundation stud in the concrete of a building or something and start pulling like a drunken redneck
bnt83
Final Approach
Could easily make a loop or something and use a hydraulic jack of some sort. If you want to cruise ebay for a strain gauge, there ya go.
jesse
Touchdown! Greaser!
You have a truck? Bolt one end to the foundation stud in the concrete of a building or something and start pulling like a drunken redneck
Yes but it's a Ford I would end up ripping the whole damn thing in half.
bnt83
Final Approach
bnt83
Final Approach
There's plenty of rigging shops near him that can run the test as well, but what the test doesn't simulate is bouncing and the long term effect of multiple repeated shock loads. All they do is a straight pull to failure.
bnt83
Final Approach
You must have missed the picture of the old wires & turnbuckles, I wouldn't worry about the new ones.
Oh, I'm not worried about them, I said that mostly in jest. The reason I suggested using roller swaged ends is drag. Those assemblies are dirty as hell.
wanttaja
En-Route
Previous owner of my Fly Baby did exactly that. I'll see if I can find the test report....
Ron Wanttaja
wanttaja
En-Route
Heh.
Heh heh.
Heh heh HA HA HA HA HA HA... !
Extra drag. On a Fly Baby. Who'd a thunk it?
Standard engine-out procedure on a Fly Baby is to throw a brick out and fly formation with it.... Though I'm guessing the canopy on Jesse's bird probably improves on the drag situation, a bit (even if it makes it tougher to throw the brick).
Ron Wanttaja