Yep, you get the prize for the reduced hp at auto cruise correct. There is a big difference between maximum RPM with a partialy open throttle, and a wide open throttle at maximum RPM's.
Problem is, that has little to do with why auto engines are not widely used, or considered unsuitable by many people.
As Ron Want-a-jaw said, <g> few internal parts, or parts of the basic auto engine are causing failures in airplanes. It is all the stuff that has to be added, such as home-baked ignitions, electrical systems, fuel supply/inductions, cooling systems, and redrives, which of course can cause the crank or bearings to fail if not correctly implimented. It also would be interesting to see what the reliability factor was for the auto engines once they got sorted out, past say 200 hours. Ron, you want to get on that new study, right away, please? <g>
I'll bet that they are more reliable than certified engines, after that. Most never get that far, because most do not build on the experiences of others, and the owners get tired of fixing instead of flying, or scare themselves.
Take for example, a very popular V-6 engine in homebuilts, the Chevy 4.3 L, or you could as easily say the Ford V-6. (3.8L, I think)
That same engine is taken from the casting line, machined, has stock auto cranks and pistons, valves and all the rest put into it, and sold to a company such as Merc-Cruiser as a boat engine. Different cooling pumps, ignitions and inductions are normally used, to do away with the computer, among other things. Still, it is the same basic package that starts its life as a so called "industrial engine" in a power boat.
If a boat engine has the right prop on it, it will be at wide open throttle, and at near redline, or at least at the maximum torque to RPM value. These engines DO spend their life at these very high HP levels, and will happily do so for hundreds if not thousands of hours. I don't know of a single airplane engine that is run as hard as 90% of these boat engines, and if it is one of my boat engines, darn right, I expect it to run at 100% of its rated HP, for an hour or more at a time, and still expect it to start reliably, and run, for many years to come. Would I run an airplane engine that hard? Not quite, but would not hesitate to ask full power for takeoffs, or very near to it. I would throttle down to 75% of the maximum HP while in cruise, but mainly for noise reduction, and fuel consumption; not for fear of blowing up. I have proven to myself that the engine is good for very extended runs at 100% power, but on the other hand, there is no sense pushing luck! ;-)
If a boat engine has the right prop on it, it will be at wide open throttle, and at near redline, or at least at the maximum torque to RPM point.
Can you do this to every auto engine out there? No. VW beetle, for one. Many of the inline 4's might have some problems. But, if it is based on one of the popular GM or Ford V-8's, (as are the GM and Ford V-6's) then you have nothing to fear from the basic engine, itself.
You had better do your homework when it comes to all of the other stuff that makes engines run, though. It's those items that pose the "gotcha."
Why did Orenda not make it? Too large a goal, I think. 600 HP out of a V-8 puts it up there near racing engine outputs. Racing engines do not live hundreds or thousands of hours. Also, the other missconception is that Orenda was a stock GM engine. It was not. It was based on one, but was its own casting, and had some other modifications done to it. Still, some people were very happy with them. It is a lot of tradition to buck, to be put on one company, to get everyone to accept an auto style engine as being equal to the accepted old style piston airplane engine.
So, is an auto engine going to come along to be the next accepted airplane engine? No, not any time soon. Is it possible to fly behind an auto engine safely? It is possible, but you have to make up your mind; are you going to tinker, engineer, study other's attempts, or you going to put something in that everyone accepts, and fly it?
Your choice. Be prepared to do your homework, and break some new ground.
Jim in NC
A few things here I'd like to address:
Few internal parts failures, no, not true for either of those engines. Cranks fail and rods fail on a completely frequent basis, if these engines are run 75%+ power, they make 400-700 hrs typically, and there are may ancillary parts that fail as well, and these parts are NOT weight optimized, they have plenty of spare meat to them and weigh in like it, and since they have a higher BSFC, there is greater drag required for the radiators to handle the higher waste heat, and more fuel translated to waste heat rather than thrust. Neither of those engines is a good design for an aircraft engine regardless if people are using them. Remember, 80% of everybody is stupid. If I wanted an automotive V-6, I would use the old 60* Ford 2800 from the old Capris or old 60*2800 Chevys from the old little Blazers (it's the one with the mount bosses for longitudinal mounting). Both of these engines can be made strong enough on a reasonable budget to put out a solid full time 260 with a 32 TO/power.
You can increase the power to weight ratio of similar power ConLycosauruses for performance applications, but you won't see the efficiency, and you'll be in it for the same money if you want it to be reliable. The good thing is that it's very cheap and easy to throw in a new set of bearings to prevent failure (less than $120 with gaskets and oil) and re ringing and honing is a simple matter. As long as you don't hurt the expensive parts like the Aluminum block and Heads, the billet crank and titanium rods, get multiple overhauls out of the pistons, keep the same valve train.... you can overhaul several times for $1200 or so. However, you have to build a good re drive gear unit, and that takes some design and fabrication. I can build it from raw metal and off the shelf gears and bearings, but it's very time consuming and won't be cheap, but mine will last, I'd probably use a 2 speed Lenco transmission stage gear set for T/O-Low altitude operation and and shift for high altitude and cruise ops. It'll cost a bit more than building a 1 speed reduction and a bit more hassle, but it'll be worth it. I haven't seen any experimental re-drives that I'd want to use myself.
I have big bock Chevy (Orenda base) racing engines out there in offshore racing boats that put out 1200hp+ and last several seasons, over 1200hrs and going strong. It just depends on how you build them, and you're looking at $35,000+ in parts, machine work and labor and you have to know how to design the bottom end parts and work the heads. The Orenda's real problem is poor marketing but it does better on fuel than the turboprops it competes with but not what a diesel could get. I'd like to get one of the V-12 Audi TDIs to work with, it's perfect and needs no major redrive. Will be cheap in no possible consideration of the term. I'd look at over $100,000 for each producing thrust on an airplane, but it will produce a lot of thrust. I could probably replace a lot of ag plane turbines if I got it certified.
Bottom line, you can run an automotive gasoline engine in an aircraft, but to do it properly you will have to spend as much or more as on an aircraft engine and give up some BSFC. Need to go diesel.
Also "Redline" is arbitrary to the cam, compression and fuel delivery system, and "High Horsepowers" is really relative again to the above. I don't consider "high horsepower at less than 2 hp per Cubic Inch.
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