Exhaust repair

jesse said:
Dawley called me today -- said nothing is really worth repairing and they'd rather just build a new one. It's going to run me about $1400 --- ouch. Probably $1500 after shipping both ways.
Click to expand...

Yep, paid $1,500 for a new exhaust on the Glasair this year. After it showed up it still required some trimming to fit.
 
SCCutler said:
Jesse:

I used Dawley, and they repaired both of my exhaust stacks and one muffler quickly, for less $$ than they quoted over the phone. Stuff looked like new.

Guy I know sent them a muffler from a 150 to be "repaired - he told me that the muffler he sent them was so corroded, he could literally stick a pencil through the side (and did!). What came back looked like new.

I was completely satisfied. http://www.dawleyaviation.com/
Click to expand...

I second (third?) Dawley. Excellent work, highly regarded by many of the shops in Colorado. Did mine about 10 years ago, haven't had any problems. And the cost is very reasonable (for aviation).
 
Most local exhaust shops have no idea how to build this stuff custom. They just cut parts off cars and weld new parts on.

I'm sure I could find some shop that is capable but I doubt there are any that have experience building an exhaust for a Continental A75 with a heat shroud system that'll just bolt up without giving me any problems.

My time is limited..I'd rather just get something that'll bolt up and last.
 
jesse said:
Most local exhaust shops have no idea how to build this stuff custom. They just cut parts off cars and weld new parts on.

I'm sure I could find some shop that is capable but I doubt there are any that have experience building an exhaust for a Continental A75 with a heat shroud system that'll just bolt up without giving me any problems.

My time is limited..I'd rather just get something that'll bolt up and last.
Click to expand...

Time is money, the less time you have the more money we make :)
 
FWIW I called a few places to check and see what a new J3 exhaust would cost -- about $2,000.

So $1,500ish for Dawley to build me a new one is still a pretty decent deal.
 
Tom-D said:
Time is money, the less time you have the more money we make :)
Click to expand...

I don't make money working on my airplane and I most certainly don't make money running all over town trying to find someone that wants to weld me up an airplane exhaust.
 
jesse said:
Most local exhaust shops have no idea how to build this stuff custom. They just cut parts off cars and weld new parts on.

I'm sure I could find some shop that is capable but I doubt there are any that have experience building an exhaust for a Continental A75 with a heat shroud system that'll just bolt up without giving me any problems.

My time is limited..I'd rather just get something that'll bolt up and last.
Click to expand...

When Dawley rebuilt the exhaust for my cherokee 140 in 2002, it didn't quite fit right. I sent it back (with photos showing the problem), they fixed it pronto and returned it. This was part of a complete engine compartment overhual, so the extra time was a non-factor.
 
Bob Noel said:
When Dawley rebuilt the exhaust for my cherokee 140 in 2002, it didn't quite fit right. I sent it back (with photos showing the problem), they fixed it pronto and returned it. This was part of a complete engine compartment overhual, so the extra time was a non-factor.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I am sure that could be an issue. We'll see.

FWIW I called three or four other aircraft exhaust shops that all quoted $2,000 or more to do it. When I told them that Dawley is doing it for $1500 they said "Dawley does good work, if they can do it for that, go for it, they must be doing something right over there"
 
jesse said:
Well the other day it finally dawned on me that it's probably going off the entire time and I just can't hear it when I have the power on.
Click to expand...
Good job on catching it before it killed you, I say.

BTW, did you think if you could get one of those profiled here:
http://www.aeromedix.com/aeromedix_articles/co/index.html
Products change so quickly these days. I suppose an objective should be to find one that has an treshold LED.
 
jesse said:
I don't make money working on my airplane and I most certainly don't make money running all over town trying to find someone that wants to weld me up an airplane exhaust.
Click to expand...

And that is why the market is so high on these parts.

that combined with labor costs, material, shipping, and CYA insurance.
 
Given how ugly that thing looked, not really surprising.

Ouch on the $1500, but you'll never have to mess with it again. Buying a junkyard exhaust would end up probably costing just as much in the end.
 
FWIW a good exhaust for my motorcycle costs over a thousand dollars as well. Airplane or not -- it takes labor and material and skill to build such a thing.
 
Yeah, but you ride one of them fancy new-fangled Japanese bikes that things are expensive and overpriced for.

...says the guy who rides a Harley.
 
You mean Experimentals you don't just slap a couple of bolts in a coffee can and weld it on? :stirpot: :devil:
 
Check AD68-05-01, exhaust mufflers for J-3's etc.
There is a really good reason for this 50hr. Inspection.
I know Experimentals don't have to comply, but it is a KNOWN
Problem, it really is a good idea to find it early.
Have the exhaust bale installed while they are at it, it usually kills
The engine when the internal baffle breaks and covers the outlet.
Dave
 
Dawley is shipping me back a new system they built that's all stainless. Hopefully it'll be here by Friday.
 
jesse said:
Dawley is shipping me back a new system they built that's all stainless. Hopefully it'll be here by Friday.
Click to expand...

Post pics, Jesse. The stuff they sent me was quite nearly art. Welds were beautiful.
 
jesse said:
Dawley is shipping me back a new system they built that's all stainless. Hopefully it'll be here by Friday.
Click to expand...

grab the peanuts before your mechanic does.
 
Well I received the new exhaust today, looks really nice. The more I looked at the clamps and their hardware I had the more I thought I needed new ones so I just ordered some new ones from Univair.

The headers seemed to go on OK and the muffler without too much issue. There seems to be a lack of clearance between the oil cooler and the fresh air intake into the muffler shroud. I've been going through pictures on my phone trying to figure out if the last one was that tight. It appears its possible the old one may have been that tight and you might need to get really creative with the SCAT tubing to get it on.

I'm sitting here trying to figure out how the hell you make this tubing cooperate..
 
jesse said:
Well I received the new exhaust today, looks really nice. The more I looked at the clamps and their hardware I had the more I thought I needed new ones so I just ordered some new ones from Univair.

The headers seemed to go on OK and the muffler without too much issue. There seems to be a lack of clearance between the oil cooler and the fresh air intake into the muffler shroud. I've been going through pictures on my phone trying to figure out if the last one was that tight. It appears its possible the old one may have been that tight and you might need to get really creative with the SCAT tubing to get it on.

I'm sitting here trying to figure out how the hell you make this tubing cooperate..
Click to expand...
BFH..
 
Any tips as to how the hell you install SCAT tubing? Does heating it a bit help?
 
jesse said:
Any tips as to how the hell you install SCAT tubing? Does heating it a bit help?
Click to expand...

That stuff can be really weird to deal with. It CAN and DOES fit and go on and sometimes the main thing is to keep those facts in mind. Eventually by force of will it will go.

Yeah I know, real helpful. Text me pics and call. I'll give you tips

MM
 
Oil cooler? Aint no stinking oil cooler on that engine
 
jesse said:
Any tips as to how the hell you install SCAT tubing? Does heating it a bit help?
Click to expand...

no..
use a pair of duck bill plyers to reform the wire to the same curve as the tube, then twist on
 
wby0nder said:
Oil cooler? Aint no stinking oil cooler on that engine
Click to expand...

I meant the oil tank which acts as the oil cooler given its size and air that is directed across it.
 
jesse said:
Most local exhaust shops have no idea how to build this stuff custom. They just cut parts off cars and weld new parts on.

I'm sure I could find some shop that is capable but I doubt there are any that have experience building an exhaust for a Continental A75 with a heat shroud system that'll just bolt up without giving me any problems.

My time is limited..I'd rather just get something that'll bolt up and last.
Click to expand...

You go to the local race tracks and speed shops, there's someone around that'll weld you up a nice tri-y pipe; 'Custom Headers' on Google would get you straight quick, it would be a good upgrade if you plan to put some miles on it. DO NOT get a pipe from a Formula engine, wrong configuration.
 
Last edited:
Seems like if you pull the white string off as far as you need for the fitting, then bend the wire so that it's 90 degrees parallel to the tube but facing out, you can get the SCAT onto the fitting and then clamp on the orange portion and the wire.

I do not believe it to be possible to get onto there without doing the above...I've been messing with it at my desk on and off for hours.
 
Ok--
Here is a picture of the clearance issue I have.
http://i.imgur.com/DzIlw.jpg
It's kind of hard to tell the depth though. But basically the oil tank is in the way of the heat shroud fresh air intake port.

I do think that with some patience and messing around it's probably possible to get the SCAT on there..but it'll be a giant PITA.

What I don't know is if the previous port had issues or not. I saw some wear on the SCAT so I just pulled it all off when I took the exhaust off planning to replace it. I did find a piece that I can kind of get onto there that is cut at an angle which suggests to me perhaps this was a problem with the previous exhaust system as well and just takes some patience to get tubing to fit.

I can't move the muffler further over as then the header on the other side doesn't have enough length to seal up.

A random picture of a weld. They certainly do a better job then I can do:
http://i.imgur.com/DwlGx.jpg

The system is designed differently then the previous one, all stainless, and less seams. It's defiantly superior. It's just a matter of figuring out if something is dimensionally off needing Dawley to rework it...or if I can make it work.

Perhaps I should have them send my old system back to me so I can compare...
 
Looking at pictures of my old system...comparing to pictures of my new system..I'm thinking that the positioning of everything is fine -- but I do think they made the ports too long which is creating the clearance issue. It needs to be shortened up a good 3/4" or so....I guess I'll be sending it back.

Aircraft maintenance is certainly an exercise in patience. If one isn't willing to take shortcuts then there is a lot of waiting on parts...
 
Last edited:
jesse said:
Looking at pictures of my old system...comparing to pictures of my new system..I'm thinking that the positioning of everything is fine -- but I do think they made the ports too long which is creating the clearance issue. It needs to be shortened up a good 3/4" or so....I guess I'll be sending it back.

Aircraft maintenance is certainly an exercise in patience. If one isn't willing to take shortcuts then there is a lot of waiting on parts...
Click to expand...


Looking at this pic, I assume the intake port /pipe is the one pointed at the oil tank ? http://i.imgur.com/DzIlw.jpg..

If so I would shorten it to about half its length.. All you need to secure the scat tubing on it is about 3/4" or so. Just enough for the clamp to squeeze down on the scat hose....... It a perfect world that fitting should have been clocked 20 degrees further downward....

I don't think you need to send it back to be shortened though,,,, get a NEW hacksaw blade and shorten it in your shop.. A die grinder with a cut off wheel will do the deed too.. Just remember, stainless steel is pretty tough material to work with. The welds do look pretty nice.:yes:.

Of course they ought to for 1500 smackers.:eek:
 
Do you have an inch or so of "flap" on the end of the tube without any wire or other stiffening? Trimming the other stuff back and leaving only the tubing material on the end seems to help with fitting. Don't hesitate to remove the tubing from the plane and install the muffler end first, if you can't "get close enough" to your work doing it the other way. I just finished an exhaust-muffler repair and was forced to do some of this stuff to get it back in place.

jesse said:
Any tips as to how the hell you install SCAT tubing? Does heating it a bit help?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
jesse said:
Ok--
Here is a picture of the clearance issue I have.
http://i.imgur.com/DzIlw.jpg
It's kind of hard to tell the depth though. But basically the oil tank is in the way of the heat shroud fresh air intake port.

I do think that with some patience and messing around it's probably possible to get the SCAT on there..but it'll be a giant PITA.

What I don't know is if the previous port had issues or not. I saw some wear on the SCAT so I just pulled it all off when I took the exhaust off planning to replace it. I did find a piece that I can kind of get onto there that is cut at an angle which suggests to me perhaps this was a problem with the previous exhaust system as well and just takes some patience to get tubing to fit.

I can't move the muffler further over as then the header on the other side doesn't have enough length to seal up.

A random picture of a weld. They certainly do a better job then I can do:
http://i.imgur.com/DwlGx.jpg

The system is designed differently then the previous one, all stainless, and less seams. It's defiantly superior. It's just a matter of figuring out if something is dimensionally off needing Dawley to rework it...or if I can make it work.

Perhaps I should have them send my old system back to me so I can compare...
Click to expand...

Build a Plenum duct to feed lateral/diagonal to a NACA duct in the side/front of the cowl. Easiest way to do it is to use spray foam and construction paper/poster board to make the basic forms. Once you have the foam final shaped and sanded you can fiberglass over it to create the duct then melt out the foam with a solvent. You may have to make some sheet metal heat shields on standoffs near a pipe, but high temp resins handle 500+*. You could build the whole thing of sheetmetal, but I think you'll get better heating easier making a composite duct, I have a feeling you're gonna want that heater to work really well this winter.
 
jesse said:
Seems like if you pull the white string off as far as you need for the fitting, then bend the wire so that it's 90 degrees parallel to the tube but facing out, you can get the SCAT onto the fitting and then clamp on the orange portion and the wire.

I do not believe it to be possible to get onto there without doing the above...I've been messing with it at my desk on and off for hours.
Click to expand...

Leave the white string on, place a piece of masking tape over it to hold it in place until you get a clamp over it. always capture the wire under the clamp. or it will move and ruin the tube.
 
jesse said:
Ok--
Here is a picture of the clearance issue I have.
http://i.imgur.com/DzIlw.jpg
It's kind of hard to tell the depth though. But basically the oil tank is in the way of the heat shroud fresh air intake port.

I do think that with some patience and messing around it's probably possible to get the SCAT on there..but it'll be a giant PITA.

What I don't know is if the previous port had issues or not. I saw some wear on the SCAT so I just pulled it all off when I took the exhaust off planning to replace it. I did find a piece that I can kind of get onto there that is cut at an angle which suggests to me perhaps this was a problem with the previous exhaust system as well and just takes some patience to get tubing to fit.

I can't move the muffler further over as then the header on the other side doesn't have enough length to seal up.

A random picture of a weld. They certainly do a better job then I can do:
http://i.imgur.com/DwlGx.jpg

The system is designed differently then the previous one, all stainless, and less seams. It's defiantly superior. It's just a matter of figuring out if something is dimensionally off needing Dawley to rework it...or if I can make it work.

Perhaps I should have them send my old system back to me so I can compare...
Click to expand...

The reason you are having troubles, is you have the piper style muffler on a continental engine, it was not designed to clear the oil tank, because Lycoming does not have a tank like that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top