Ex valve leakage

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Touchdown! Greaser!
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Dave Taylor
So I am reading on several of my other av forums about what causes ex valves to leak but did not see these recent ideas here.
I think we've all heard about valve guide wear leading to poor seating resulting in leakage, then the non-pizza borescope images - and later; low compressions.

Maybe everyone else has followed it and I missed it - but now I am reading about other possible causes or contributors;
-poor rocker arm face to valve stem geometry
-factory valves in which the stem is not 90° to the valve face (some disassemble brand new ones, and run them on a lathe or other machine to check)
-valve guides which are not drilled straight or 90° to the seat
-prussian blue test, for rocker face to stem tip contact check
-poorly designed rotator caps; when they stop working, the valve is doomed.
(I was taught the lipstick test to ensure new valves touch the seat equally around the circumference)

and, apparently that 'slide' or 'shift' seen, as a valve seats, on borescope images - may be largely 'no big deal'!

Here is a video on the topic posted by Dave Pasquale, "our" Viking mechanic hero....and apparently now he is becoming well known in Beech circles lately:

The early part goes slow. I can't remember where but you go past 10? 20? minutes of it, to the meat and potatoes. Also, I turned captioning on and went 2x speed to make this >1hr video more suited to my available free time.
Long discussion going on in BeechTalk too.

 
Thanks Dave for the video....watched and learned a few things. I've been doing valve inspections for a few years and am always learning new things. I had a bad valve on my #6 that wouldn't lap....which led to a top OH last year. Decided to bring the engine home....cause I was not confident about getting correct torques on the cylinder bolts with the engine installed in the Bonanza cowling. Traditional, un-modified, wrenches don't work on the front cylinders. They must be cut and modified....which will not give a traditional torque value. With the engine on a stand I could use stock wrenches and had full access to achieve correct torque values. Since then I have twenty hours on a strong running engine.
 

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I had no idea that was the case for the Bo front 2 cyls. It's that nose cowl getting in the way?
Does anyone have pics of wrenches? Description of modifications? (for the situation where the cylinder work is done on the engine)
 
I had no idea that was the case for the Bo front 2 cyls. It's that nose cowl getting in the way?
Does anyone have pics of wrenches? Description of modifications? (for the situation where the cylinder work is done on the engine)
It's done in place....I can't figure out how. Yes, there isn't enough clearance between the cylinder and cowling for the wrenches and torque wrench. Take a look at the finished pic posted previously...you'll see how tight it is.

Here are the wrenches I made....
 

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Last edited:
would love to see the ref'd SSR document or even that page but sadly, it is not appended or linked.
 
Lycoming used to have valve guide wear problems. In 1999 they switched to a high chromium-content bronze and the problems mostly went away.
 
Lycoming used to have valve guide wear problems. In 1999 they switched to a high chromium-content bronze and the problems mostly went away.
Yep..... now they just get stuck valves.
 
If anyone knows where to see P223 of the SSR manual referenced, that would be cool.

Has anyone gone to the trouble of replacing their rotocaps or doing the Prussian Blue testing?
New cyls or problematic ones?
 
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