ENGINE TEMPS

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ZackJ

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inferno8428
Hey guys - having an issue. Currently my piper warrior seems to like hot temperatures. It has been dwidling around 240 - every close to red line. It was running 20W50 just changed it to W100 plus engine oil but little improvement.
This is an O-320-D3G has about 1100 hrs.
Let me know what you guys think.
 
Oil Cooler? Baffling? Have you checked the gauge and sender for accuracy?
 
Dirty oil cooler/winter plate still installed
kinked oil lines to said cooler
oil level too low
vernatherm
gauge

Doc mentioned baffling already. We had a pilot complaining about high oil temps. We looked at his baffling and there was at least a 3/4" gap between the top of the baffling and the engine cowl.
 
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Have you checked the gauge?
 
thanks guys.
No winterization plate.

I’ll be using a gauge to check temp and compare tomorrow (wish me luck I don’t drop it)

Replace the baffles

and if it still doesn’t work - replace oil cooler.

and if that doesn’t work... I don’t know what to do
 
You don't necessarily have to replace the baffles, just check to make sure that they're doing their job which is forcing the air from the top of the engine down through your cylinder heads and out the bottom. If everything is sealed up when the engine cowl is on and the baffles are in good shape with no leaks, there is no reason to replace them. The oil cooler is just a small radiator. If is isn't leaking then it can be cleaned and re-installed, no need to replace.
 
ZackJ said:
thanks guys.
No winterization plate.

I’ll be using a gauge to check temp and compare tomorrow (wish me luck I don’t drop it)

Replace the baffles

and if it still doesn’t work - replace oil cooler.

and if that doesn’t work... I don’t know what to do
Click to expand...

When was the last time the cooler was serviced?
 
I'd start with the baffle seals. The ones I see on many older aircraft are in really bad shape and are not doing their job. It only takes a few minutes to check whether the seals are indeed sealing against the top cowl. If they are, look elsewhere for the problem. If they are not, fix 'em.
 
Doc Holliday said:
When was the last time the cooler was serviced?
Click to expand...
I know the oil cooler in my cherokee hadn't been cleaned since it was installed in 1969. When I had the engine overhauled in 2011 the shop & I looked at the cooler, looked at each other, and in unison said "order a new cooler". No one even wanted to try to clean it. But it was justfied for a 40 yr old cooler.
 
murphey said:
I know the oil cooler in my cherokee hadn't been cleaned since it was installed in 1969. When I had the engine overhauled in 2011 the shop & I looked at the cooler, looked at each other, and in unison said "order a new cooler". No one even wanted to try to clean it. But it was justfied for a 40 yr old cooler.
Click to expand...

FWIW old coolers can be sent in and cleaned/serviced and come back looking brand new. I haven't done one in a while so I'm not sure on the pricing.
 
Any recent work on the plane? CHTs available?
 
Doc Holliday said:
FWIW old coolers can be sent in and cleaned/serviced and come back looking brand new. I haven't done one in a while so I'm not sure on the pricing.
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Got my cooler overhauled in 2013 by Pacific Oil Cooler Service for $165. Came back looking brand new. Also did the vernatherm at the same time for $50. Very pleased with the work and would recommend them.
 
Oil pressure high? Many years ago I had a VW with gummy oil channels. The obstruction made it run hot, but it otherwise seemed to run fine.

oil filter analysis?
 
Had a Warrior with the D3G that ran high oil temp. Checked everything. New cooler and vernatherm etc. Gave up. Consumption was excellent and pressure was fine. Put an O-360-A4M. Ran hot just like the 60 did. Sold the 160 to an RV builder who never mentioned the OT being high. Sold the Warrior and never a peep from the new owner of that.
 
Replaced the oil cooler - and removed the rear oil cooler cover - figured it would build air pressure in the oil cooler and reduce efficiency. Temps in the GREEN! Finally.
Less than 48 hrs after fixing one thing.. my mixture at idle doesn’t cut off the engine. I’m hoping this is an easier fix. thoughts?
 
ZackJ said:
Replaced the oil cooler - and removed the rear oil cooler cover - figured it would build air pressure in the oil cooler and reduce efficiency. Temps in the GREEN! Finally.
Less than 48 hrs after fixing one thing.. my mixture at idle doesn’t cut off the engine. I’m hoping this is an easier fix. thoughts?
Click to expand...

Turn the boost pump off?
 
ZackJ said:
Replaced the oil cooler - and removed the rear oil cooler cover - figured it would build air pressure in the oil cooler and reduce efficiency. Temps in the GREEN! Finally.
Less than 48 hrs after fixing one thing.. my mixture at idle doesn’t cut off the engine. I’m hoping this is an easier fix. thoughts?
Click to expand...

What rear oil cooler cover. Are you talking about the winterization plat that is put on the backside of the cooler in cold temps?
 
ZackJ said:
Replaced the oil cooler - and removed the rear oil cooler cover - figured it would build air pressure in the oil cooler and reduce efficiency. Temps in the GREEN! Finally.
Less than 48 hrs after fixing one thing.. my mixture at idle doesn’t cut off the engine. I’m hoping this is an easier fix. thoughts?
Click to expand...
Check the mixture cable. It may not be closing completely. Check the accelerator pump on the carb. Sometimes the seal ages, hardens, and leaks.
 
ZackJ said:
Replaced the oil cooler - and removed the rear oil cooler cover - figured it would build air pressure in the oil cooler and reduce efficiency. Temps in the GREEN! Finally.
Less than 48 hrs after fixing one thing.. my mixture at idle doesn’t cut off the engine. I’m hoping this is an easier fix. thoughts?
Click to expand...
An unlocked primer will do this and may generate a few backfires as well.
 
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