Electric Trim on Arrow II

The deal officially fell out. My shop won't do the blind rivets against they airframe. They need to pull the wing to buck the solid rivets. Some shops do the blind rivets and it makes it cheaper, because you do not have to pull the wing. I am of the mindset of doing it right (solid rivets). Also, labor rates are a bit higher here in CA.

Well, prebuy was worth it then. You wouldn't have wanted to be stuck with it.
 
The electric trim on my Arrow has been working intermittently every since I bought it. I understand the "if I have it in the plane it better be working" attitude, but truth be told and inop electric trim is not a big issue and trimming by hand does not impose an undue workload on the pilot.

So, spend the money to fix it if you have it, but I'd rather save it for fuel or the cooler avionics fund.
 
The problem with the electric trim going out is that the manual trim wheel requires a lot of force and turns to operate, unlike the hand crank in older Pipers and trim wheel in Cessnas.

The Cherokee manual trim should not require "a lot of force" to operate. If it does, you've got a frozen pulley or a jackscrew lube issue or a maladjusted electric trim clutch or some other problem that needs to be addressed, and sooner rather than later.
 
Too bad mine is so far away from you

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

They are all far. There is nothing on the West Coast right now. :confused:

Well, prebuy was worth it then. You wouldn't have wanted to be stuck with it.

Yes, that is true. I am still a bit bummed.

The electric trim on my Arrow has been working intermittently every since I bought it. I understand the "if I have it in the plane it better be working" attitude, but truth be told and inop electric trim is not a big issue and trimming by hand does not impose an undue workload on the pilot.

So, spend the money to fix it if you have it, but I'd rather save it for fuel or the cooler avionics fund.

The plane had a pretty nice panel already (Aspen, GTN 650, GDL88). It needed an engine monitor, but I would have done that right away. My shop found $16K worth of stuff. Granted, they are picky and it wasn't all airworthy items, but I would have ended up doing all that by the next annual in October. The shimmy dampener was completely shot, lots of bushings and stuff and then the wing walk. The airframe was solid, though. No corrosion. It was a nice plane, but I would have had to pony up the $16K, an engine monitor, plus an engine in the next year, plus whatever else is found at annual and I would have been in too deep for my taste for that plane. For someone who doesn't mind over spending a little, you would end up with a very clean plane and a fresh engine, there is just the little niggling catch up stuff that people tend to defer for some reason, as they chase the panel and cosmetics.
 
Can anyone help locate a spring for the Piper trim switch. I have everything working in my arrow but the trim switch spring is broke. P/N 757 685 (#10004324)

I can't find this little darn spring anywhere.
 
I had to replace the trim switch spring in my Arrow MANY years ago but I ordered Piper kit# 760 517V. The spring was part of the kit. trim switch repair Feb 2007_A.jpg
 
I am going into pre-buy on an Arrow II and the electric trim doesn't work. The owner says the motor works, but there is something wrong with the clutch. I know it is hard to judge, but what could be the range on what it would take to fix this?
To date I've never flown an Archer II with a consistently correctly working trim.. the motor buzzes but the wheel does not actually move..
 
*and the wheel has been very hard to crank, you'll squawk these issues but most flight clubs just ignore it
 
*and the wheel has been very hard to crank, you'll squawk these issues but most flight clubs just ignore it
Grease the elevator trim nut and screw in the tail come with LPS. I do this about every 6 weeks and it keeps the trim really fluid.
 
I am going into pre-buy on an Arrow II and the electric trim doesn't work. The owner says the motor works, but there is something wrong with the clutch. I know it is hard to judge, but what could be the range on what it would take to fix this?

Remove the rear bulkhead access panel and watch/listen to the trim unit while someone operates the switch on the yoke. These are fairly simple units and it might be an easy diagnosis and repair. The cork clutch disc is an easy fix.
 
Who did you order kit from?
Just and update;

I found the rivets and spring kit from Preferred Airparts LLC out of Ohio. Little kit is about $65.. Ouch! But at least is compliant with the AD and it remains a certified switch.
 
To date I've never flown an Archer II with a consistently correctly working trim.. the motor buzzes but the wheel does not actually move..
You’ve never flown mine then. It has worked perfectly since new.
 
Remove the rear bulkhead access panel and watch/listen to the trim unit while someone operates the switch on the yoke. These are fairly simple units and it might be an easy diagnosis and repair. The cork clutch disc is an easy fix.
This is a necro post. I did that pre-buy years ago and it turned up a bunch of other problems. I didn't end up buying the plane, but it had nothing to do with the trim.
 
Remove the rear bulkhead access panel and watch/listen to the trim unit while someone operates the switch on the yoke. These are fairly simple units and it might be an easy diagnosis and repair. The cork clutch disc is an easy fix.
Hi, saw your Post and have done the troubleshooting. I replaced the trim solenoid plate but it didn't come with a new cork clutch disk. I am at my wits end trying to find one. I am hoping you may be able to suggest some places to check that may have one in inventory. My poor 'Kota sits until I can find one. Thanks, Mike (LOBO, COWBOY ACTION SHOOTING)
 
Holy Moly! This thread was dead and buried. But since you dug it up....

Back in 2016 Muncie had the cork friction disks for the PET-1 trim servo: Part Number 690-608 at $64.74 each (from 2016).

I had bought one about 20 years or so ago from Muncie for $8.00. Kinda wish I had bought more. The disk is peel-and-stick. The adhesive gave way on mine back in 2016, and that's when I inquired about getting a new one from Muncie. Instead, I used Plio-bond adhesive to reapply the existing disk. Still going strong! I think some people have cut their own from thin cork gasket material. Good luck!
 
Hey, thanks pburger. Appreciate your reply. Will try Muncie tomorrow. Hopefully.........
 
Necropost complaints when talking about a 50 year old airplane. Hmmm.:rolleyes:
 
Holy Moly! This thread was dead and buried. But since you dug it up....

Back in 2016 Muncie had the cork friction disks for the PET-1 trim servo: Part Number 690-608 at $64.74 each (from 2016).

I had bought one about 20 years or so ago from Muncie for $8.00. Kinda wish I had bought more. The disk is peel-and-stick. The adhesive gave way on mine back in 2016, and that's when I inquired about getting a new one from Muncie. Instead, I used Plio-bond adhesive to reapply the existing disk. Still going strong! I think some people have cut their own from thin cork gasket material. Good luck!
Holy Moly! This thread was dead and buried. But since you dug it up....

Back in 2016 Muncie had the cork friction disks for the PET-1 trim servo: Part Number 690-608 at $64.74 each (from 2016).

I had bought one about 20 years or so ago from Muncie for $8.00. Kinda wish I had bought more. The disk is peel-and-stick. The adhesive gave way on mine back in 2016, and that's when I inquired about getting a new one from Muncie. Instead, I used Plio-bond adhesive to reapply the existing disk. Still going strong! I think some people have cut their own from thin cork gasket material. Good luck![/AGAIN!

Hi again! JUST WANTED TO LET EVERYONE KNOW THAT MINCIE HAD THE PARTS AND AT THE BEST PRICE , IN STOCK AND SHIPPING OUT SAME DAY. HOORAY, ONLY A FEW MORE DAYS TILL THE KOTA IS BACK IN THE AIR.... THANKS AGAIN.
 
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