Driving a Semi Tractor for Fun

If the horn doesn't work properly,, the whole truck is worthless....:lol::lol::lol:

Agreed. I need something loud enough that if I honk it at the freight train when it comes by the house the train operator will go "THAT THING IS LOUD!"
 
If that K100 doesn't work out for you, there's a beautiful "B" model Mack on the Seattle Craigslist. Kinda spendy (actually more than "kinda"), but very pretty. There's another, rougher one, on the Cincinnati CL for $5500. Always liked how those B Macks looked, especially those with the chrome radiator shroud.
 
It looks like I'll be getting the truck back this weekend, close to 2 months after buying it. In the end we weren't able to find a back half that would fit the truck, so they just put the thing back together properly, gave me 4 near-new tires, and new batteries for the truck plus a once-over. I thought that was a fair deal. Looking forward to having it back.

Then I can figure out what to do with it. Honestly after having gone through this ordeal, I'll admit to somewhat wanting to just sell it and get a 3/4 or 1-ton diesel like I was thinking a few pages ago. Or, if I do get a semi, get something that's older - like 50s through 70s with a 2-stroke Detroit Diesel. Or maybe an old Mack.

First I'll get it home, the drive home may make me decide to keep it. :)
 
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Glad to hear you are getting the truck back.

Just me, but no one could ever go wrong with an old Mack.....especially a B model.

Are there still Detroits on the road..??
 
I can't wait for you to teach me to drive it!
 
It looks like I'll be getting the truck back this weekend, close to 2 months after buying it. In the end we weren't able to find a back half that would fit the truck, so they just put the thing back together properly, gave me 4 near-new tires, and new batteries for the truck plus a once-over. I thought that was a fair deal. Looking forward to having it back.

Then I can figure out what to do with it. Honestly after having gone through this ordeal, I'll admit to somewhat wanting to just sell it and get a 3/4 or 1-ton diesel like I was thinking a few pages ago. Or, if I do get a semi, get something that's older - like 50s through 70s with a 2-stroke Detroit Diesel. Or maybe an old Mack.

First I'll get it home, the drive home may make me decide to keep it. :)

Whatever you get, it'll need more boost. :)
 
Glad to hear you are getting the truck back.

Just me, but no one could ever go wrong with an old Mack.....especially a B model.

Are there still Detroits on the road..??

Some of the old Macks I like. There are still a lot of older trucks with the 2-stroke Detroit Diesels. They pretty much stopped making them in the 70s. Some went into the 80s, but not as many. The nice part with the old 2-stroke Detroits is that they're easy to work on and lots of parts, plus they made good power for what they were. But really I'd want an 8V71, 8V92, or 12V71 variant if I went that route. The V12 models were rare and of course fetch a premium because of their rarity.

I'm not going to make a decision on what exactly I'm going to do until I get the Kenworth back and see how I feel after the drive home.

I can't wait for you to teach me to drive it!

Come on up! :)

Whatever you get, it'll need more boost. :)

You know me too well. ;)
 
I really enjoyed the V-8 Detroits, but I worked on oil field and farm trucks, so they were always just oily nasty messes.

I have seen exactly 3 on the road V12 Detroits, and since they were heavily loaded, the sound was just spectacular.!!!
 
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I really enjoyed the V-8 Detroits, but I worked on oil field and farm trucks, so they were always just oily nasty messes.

I have seen exactly 3 on the road V12 Detroits, and since they were heavily loaded, the sound was just spectacular.!!!

V12, diesel, AND a 2-stroke in one. What a sound!

Yeah, I think that it's common for them to be oily nasty messes if not taken care of. But on farm and oil field trucks, you expect them to be... well... farm and oil field trucks. :)

I've been working on getting the F-250 apart (7.3 PowerStroke). Ready to do a compression check on the driver's side, which I'm hoping will find my dead cylinder. Leaning towards just doing that side if I find the dead cylinder there, since it's a lot more work to remove the passenger side.
 
Looks like the plan is to get the truck today. Woohoo!
 
I really enjoyed the V-8 Detroits, but I worked on oil field and farm trucks, so they were always just oily nasty messes.

I have seen exactly 3 on the road V12 Detroits, and since they were heavily loaded, the sound was just spectacular.!!!

The experience I have with those 2 stroke V8's is on the old M113 personnel carriers. They were noisy and smelly, but yes they did make good power for their size. Unlike the massive 4 stroke Cummins diesels that were installed in their successors, the Detroit diesels were responsive and moved as soon as you put your foot down.
 
Greg, I think Ted and the bandit are eastbound and down

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The experience I have with those 2 stroke V8's is on the old M113 personnel carriers. They were noisy and smelly, but yes they did make good power for their size. Unlike the massive 4 stroke Cummins diesels that were installed in their successors, the Detroit diesels were responsive and moved as soon as you put your foot down.

Yeah, there's not much responsive about the L10 in the Kenworth. But it also needs more power.
 
I love the sound of diesels.

Way back, a lifetime ago, I worked with an old guy that owned a Mercedes diesel sedan. It might have been a mid 70's or somewhere in that era. Those cars could go 300k+ miles. Someone said you'd get sick and tired of the car way before it would ever wear out. On the really cold days, he'd leave it idling in the parking lot at work all day. It was the only way he could make sure it would still start at quitting time.
 
Found an engine for ya....

Its little brother the 398 is used in trucks as well as stationary applications. The 399 was used widely offshore and generally provided good service. Overhauls usually took about 60 to 70 man hours just in disassembly/reassembly of the big pieces. The turbos glow really bright if intake air is restricted just a little bit.
 
I love the sound of diesels.

Way back, a lifetime ago, I worked with an old guy that owned a Mercedes diesel sedan. It might have been a mid 70's or somewhere in that era. Those cars could go 300k+ miles. Someone said you'd get sick and tired of the car way before it would ever wear out. On the really cold days, he'd leave it idling in the parking lot at work all day. It was the only way he could make sure it would still start at quitting time.

Those things would basically never die. They were great cars, and I enjoyed driving them. They were tanks. Slow, but you couldn't destroy them.

Okay Ted. Now I had to go out and buy a kenworth so I could have one also. o_O

I like it! I always thought the T600s looked cool. What engine/transmission?

Proof that I made it back:

semi.jpg

Today we went for some fun rides around the neighborhood. Keep in mind we live in farm country, not a subdivision. Everyone really enjoyed it. At this point I've put roughly 500 miles on the truck. I'll admit that picking up the truck, I was a bit intimidated after how things went the last time. The last 100 or so miles of the drive was fun, and I've gotten the hang of the truck.

Now comes the question of what to do with it. Real things I'd want different are as follows:

1) Better ride. This thing rides rotten at highway speed. The truck doesn't have air ride. It does have an air ride driver's seat, but didn't seem to do much. The seat is also pretty shot. I figure a new seat would help, although obviously there are limitations. Admittedly I haven't played around much with the current seat to try to see how the air ride is supposed to work, and that would probably help.

2) Cruise control. This thing doesn't have it. Really only a big deal on a long trip, but it would've helped quite a bit yesterday.

3) Aluminum wheels in back. This one looks harder. Although this truck has the 10 lug (I think 10?) wheels in the front, the rears are the big steelies that have 5 or so huge lugs around the outer part of the rim (Dayton style). From what I can tell, I would need to get new hubs to make this work

4) More power. There are limits to what I can do with the L10, but there are some things I can do to it.

5) Quieter. This thing needs a lot of Dynamat.

There are some other things I'd want to add if I keep it, all simple and minor. I would like a jake brake (not quite as simple or minor), but it seems that it's harder to add on to the L10. For my flatland driving that probably doens't matter so much anyway.

Overall now that I'm back home, I like the truck. The cabover's shorter wheelbase is definitely a positive for my driveway, and I think getting a trailer in with this will work if I get the right trailer. I think the real question is whether to keep this one or look for something different. I'd be curious what others' thoughts are regarding the suspension seats and being able to improve things there. Right now it feels like it's not doing any suspension-ing at all, so it might just be completely broken or turned off.
 
Looks like you have enough room there to turn it around.... takes about 40 acres.....
 
1) Better ride. This thing rides rotten at highway speed. The truck doesn't have air ride. It does have an air ride driver's seat, but didn't seem to do much. The seat is also pretty shot. I figure a new seat would help, although obviously there are limitations. Admittedly I haven't played around much with the current seat to try to see how the air ride is supposed to work, and that would probably help.

Air ride isn't going to help much, if at all, if you are bobtailing or pulling light loads, especially on a cabover. A suspension meant to be continuously loaded to about 35k lbs, isn't going to ride great unloaded. Not to mention, you are sitting right over the front wheel, where it will have next to no effect and you get the most motion. Cab air ride is the only major improvement that's noticeable. Getting a smooth ride is easy: Step 1 - load the vehicle to the weight for which it was designed...

The seat is simple. Just an air shock. There's a little knob under the corner of the seat. Pulling it lets air out and lowers the seat, pushing it fills it up and raises the seat. Just like an office chair. Over or under inflation means it either won't compress or it'll bottom out. There also might be a lockout for the seat to slide fore and aft a couple of inches. This takes some of the jarring out.
 
I know nothing about trucks, but I think this thread is fascinating. How about some pics of inside the cab?
 
Hey ted. My kenworth has a 475 Cummings isx with a ten speed autoshift. Decided if I have to haul several hundred loads of corn and beans I'm going to do in comfort. I've had bunch of cabovers in past, but not terrible much you can do about ride as you are above front axle. There are several different things such as cab air ride which replaces back latch and mini air ride and airbags for front. Most all are fairly expensive though. Your correct that you don't really have option for aluminum wheels for the Dayton wheels. These can be changed but again not really feasible. If I could make it to bonfire I'd try to bring the t600,but,I most likely will be at sun n fun. I'd play with it for awhile until you decide what you want to replace with. Probably can sell before harvest to a area farmer.
 
Smokey and the Bandit is on cable right now.

Great writing!

"I think I just went 10-100."
"Well, that's better than 10-200!"
 
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I know nothing about trucks, but I think this thread is fascinating. How about some pics of inside the cab?

You bet! The truck is still in "as purchased" condition, meaning it needs a good bit of cleaning.

IMG_0794.JPG

The driver's seat is torn up. Not horrible, but it needs to be recovered. The padding is also in bad shape, which contributes to the poor ride. The yellow and red knobs on the panel to the right of the steering wheel are the truck and trailer parking brakes. Since semis use air to release the brakes, when you remove the air the parking brake is activated. It's the opposite of a car and makes sense when you figure you've got as much as 80,000 lbs that could roll away. You can see part of the shifter (right side with the red button). This is a 13 speed so it has the high-lo lever (up/down on the front) and the red button for engaging overdrive.

IMG_0795.JPG

Sleeper area. This truck had a sleeper cab but has never been slept in. The floor is just metal and is part of the problem with it being so loud. The holes go directly to the engine area. A few layers of Dyanmat or other insulatino would make a world of difference here. The box that is sitting in the sleeper area belongs on the ceiling behind the driver's seat, it served as storage.

IMG_0797.JPG

View across to the passenger seat. The engine cover is in the middle. Being a cabover, the engine sits, well, in the middle below the cab. The picture doesn't show it well, but the passenger is WAY over on the other side of the truck.

IMG_0798.JPG

The dashboard. Note that there are a couple of gauges missing, not sure what they would've been. I would like to add a boost gauge if I keep the truck, mostly out of curiosity. Aside from the expected speedometer, tachometer, oil pressure, voltage, fuel, and coolant temperature, you also have the air gauges. Specifically the amount of air in the system (regulated at 110ish psi) and the air pressure applied at the brakes. This is also useful because the brakes give you effectively no feedback.

There's a lot of cleaning up that needs to be done on the truck. We'l take the vacuum and some ArmorAll to it. But some insulation is what it needs more than anything to quiet things down.
 
Hey ted. My kenworth has a 475 Cummings isx with a ten speed autoshift. Decided if I have to haul several hundred loads of corn and beans I'm going to do in comfort. I've had bunch of cabovers in past, but not terrible much you can do about ride as you are above front axle. There are several different things such as cab air ride which replaces back latch and mini air ride and airbags for front. Most all are fairly expensive though. Your correct that you don't really have option for aluminum wheels for the Dayton wheels. These can be changed but again not really feasible. If I could make it to bonfire I'd try to bring the t600,but,I most likely will be at sun n fun. I'd play with it for awhile until you decide what you want to replace with. Probably can sell before harvest to a area farmer.

I have to decide what to do with it. I figured out the air seat and that did make a difference. But the seat itself needs redone, which would make just as much (if not more of) a difference. Cruise control and Dynamat I think would also help quite a bit.

The truck does have an air cab, and we confirmed that it's working. That said, I'm not sure if it's regulating correctly. It looks as though the adjuster is making the cab go all the way up, so it may be that the air bags are overinflated. The controller was replaced recently. It seems like the shocks for the air cab are stretched all the way when inflated, so I really don't know if it's doing what it should or not. See the pictures:

IMG_0787.JPG

IMG_0790.JPG

The shock absorbers on the front look original - they still say Paccar on them. So that might be a factor. No shocks on the rear as it's just leaf springs. It looks like shocks don't cost that much for the thing on a quick Google, but that's for Monroe or Gabriel. Not sure what brands are decent here.

The truck has an air adjustable 5th wheel, but they cut the air line going to it. I have to figure out how this is supposed to be plumbed up. Just have to track air hoses and figure it out.

I also haven't figured out if the differential lock (air powered) works or not. Not really sure a good way to test that. I hear air moving when I flip the switch, but that by itself doesn't mean a whole ton.

Oh, and it's slow. The L10 is a gutless wonder. There's not a whole lot you can do to turn them up easily, but there are a few things.

I did some measuring and the truck itself is about 23' from front to back, which really isn't too long when you think about it. If I could find a flatbed trailer with the wheels in the back 1/3 area rather than all the way at the rear, I think that would work for my driveway and maneuverability.
 
The owner operator gauge package usually consists of a speedometer, tachometer, coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure, pyrometer, boost, air tank 1, air tank 2, brake application pressure, front driver temp, rear driver temp, voltage, and ammeter.

Also your cab air ride valve is not adjusted correctly, and it doesn't look like it isn't an adjustable one, so you can make an adjustable rod to correct it.

It it an axle locker or interaxle lock? If it's a locker, lock it in and find a nice muddy place or soft dirt and try to make a tight turn and see if you just keep going straight. If you do it's an axle locker. If it's an interesting axle lock it just sends power to both drives.
 
The owner operator gauge package usually consists of a speedometer, tachometer, coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure, pyrometer, boost, air tank 1, air tank 2, brake application pressure, front driver temp, rear driver temp, voltage, and ammeter.

That would make sense. There are 3 gauges missing, and I would suspect oil temp, pyrometer, and boost could be the missing items.

Also your cab air ride valve is not adjusted correctly, and it doesn't look like it isn't an adjustable one, so you can make an adjustable rod to correct it.

That's what I was thinking. What would you figure it should be adjusted to height wise? Halfway between all the way down and all the way up?
 
Oh, and the cab-over doing what cab-overs do best:

IMG_0789.JPG

(the kids love their new jungle gym)
 
Yeah 1/2 on and make the lever on the valve in the middle
 
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