Converting from paint to polished aluminum

Fearless Tower

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Fearless Tower
Anyone ever taken a painted aircraft, stripped it and left the finish polished aluminum?

How much of a headache was it and are there any potential pitfalls?

I just stumbled across a 1948 C170 that appears to be in pretty good shape/good engine and priced to my liking. So far, the only thing I don't like is the paint - pretty ugly (custom paint job, looks like it was done in the late 60's), but, at the asking price, I can easily have it repainted and probaby recover the cost on re-sale.

I was thinking that it might look good to strip it and leave it bare metal with light accent striping like alot of C140s I've seen. Any thoughts?
 
Anyone ever taken a painted aircraft, stripped it and left the finish polished aluminum?

How much of a headache was it and are there any potential pitfalls?

I just stumbled across a 1948 C170 that appears to be in pretty good shape/good engine and priced to my liking. So far, the only thing I don't like is the paint - pretty ugly (custom paint job, looks like it was done in the late 60's), but, at the asking price, I can easily have it repainted and probaby recover the cost on re-sale.

I was thinking that it might look good to strip it and leave it bare metal with light accent striping like alot of C140s I've seen. Any thoughts?

After you get the paint off, you must inspect the skin for scratches that can't be polished out, many time before the primer is applied the shop will skuff the aluminum with 180 scotch bright. they can never be repolished
 

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Anyone ever taken a painted aircraft, stripped it and left the finish polished aluminum?

How much of a headache was it and are there any potential pitfalls?

I just stumbled across a 1948 C170 that appears to be in pretty good shape/good engine and priced to my liking. So far, the only thing I don't like is the paint - pretty ugly (custom paint job, looks like it was done in the late 60's), but, at the asking price, I can easily have it repainted and probaby recover the cost on re-sale.

I was thinking that it might look good to strip it and leave it bare metal with light accent striping like alot of C140s I've seen. Any thoughts?

My 48, its painted, simply had too much surface corrosion to polish, and the 48 has rag wings, pretty hard to polish. :)
 

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My 48, its painted, simply had too much surface corrosion to polish, and the 48 has rag wings, pretty hard to polish. :)

On first glance I thought the wing was rusting away until I realized it was a hangar roof ;)
 
Anyone ever taken a painted aircraft, stripped it and left the finish polished aluminum?

How much of a headache was it and are there any potential pitfalls?

I just stumbled across a 1948 C170 that appears to be in pretty good shape/good engine and priced to my liking. So far, the only thing I don't like is the paint - pretty ugly (custom paint job, looks like it was done in the late 60's), but, at the asking price, I can easily have it repainted and probably recover the cost on re-sale.

I was thinking that it might look good to strip it and leave it bare metal with light accent striping like alot of C140s I've seen. Any thoughts?

:thumbsup: Go for it! I'm a granny, and I stripped and polished my Luscombe. The best source for information is perfectpolish.com and nuvite.com. It's work, especially compounding the surface to get it ready to accept the polish, but after that, I only polish yearly. My Luscombe is parked outside.

Tom is correct about some surface imperfections. Some will not polish out, however, compounding and then polishing will make them less noticeable by smoothing the edges. Nuvite has various grades to handle these issues. I use Number 7 for compounding and I have used Number 9 for the really tough stuff.

I don't have a Cyclo. I understand that I could get even better results with one, however I'm afraid I could only use it for short periods. My shine comes from a compounder from Harbor Frieght ($29.95), a handheld orbiting polisher from Auto Zone ($19) with mircrofiber bonnets, a set of good microfiber towels from perfectpolish and Nuvite. Do not buy Nuvite from Aircraft Spruce. Their half pound can costs as much as the pounder from perfectpolish. A can goes a long, long way.

Once you start polishing, it becomes addictive. The results are so rewarding.

BTW, I used Napier RemovAll for stripping my airplane. It's nontoxic and biodegradable. We stripped Lester in just a day.

Deb McFarland
 

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I hope you enjoy hours and hours of really hard work.

Actually, it's not that bad. I enjoy it, but I am an active person. I've done other jobs that were much more demanding.

My yearly go-over polish is no different than other folks waxing their airplane. I wouldn't have to do that if Lester was parked in a hangar.

Deb
 
Are there any other polished aircraft in San Diego? What do they look like and do they resist corrosion in that environment?
 
Are there any other polished aircraft in San Diego? What do they look like and do they resist corrosion in that environment?

Usually only warbirds....at as far as polished aluminum aircraft being parked outside.

But I would say that the environment out here is much kinder than in New England where I've seen quite a few vintage taildraggers in bare aluminum parked outside.
 
If that is what you want...

Stripping for paint wouldn't be any easier than stripping for polish. The rivet heads are the fun part.

You may or may not uncover some body filler repairs.

Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer chance.
 
You have to strip for paint so at least you'll know what the metal looks like. If its not too bad than polish may be worth doing. You will need to keep it polished though...its not a one time thing. Another thing to be aware of is that the skins were originally alclad. Its an aluminum alloy coated with a thin layer of pure aluminum for corrosion resistance. Polishing through that layer will give you some odd color changes and also removes your corrosion resistant layer. As long as you keep it clean and free of corrosion its great but let it sit for some time and you end up with pitting and other annoying maladies that won't polish out. I've painted a few planes that were polished at one point and then later neglected. On the other hand, planes that came out of the factory with bare metal usually are good candidates for polish as the cladding is still intact.

Good luck whichever way you choose. The 170 is a very good plane.

Frank
 
Strip a 2'X2' section and be positive it is clean, etch it with alumibright, and polish it while it is clean, Never I mean ever allow dirt to get embedded in the polishing cloths or buffer heads. that will make more scratches than you can ever get out.

the Warner nose case.
 

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You have to strip for paint so at least you'll know what the metal looks like. If its not too bad than polish may be worth doing.

That is basically the way I think I am leaning right now. Strip it and see what I'm dealing with. Worst case, if the metal is not conducive to polishing, I am still liking the painted silver look on those photos Tom posted.

For those that have actually polished planes (looking for actual experience, not uneducated opinions on this one) - how much work is it really?

Deb, you mention polishing the Luscombe once a year and it is parked outside, did I read that correctly? Also, you described it as not much different from waxing, which I would be doing anyway if I painted it. Do you do anything to it in between? The guy I spoke to at a local paint shop was making it sound like a constant miserable experience - like I would be spending more time polishing than flying. Obviously, he was biased and trying to sell a full paint job.
 
Deb, you mention polishing the Luscombe once a year and it is parked outside, did I read that correctly? Also, you described it as not much different from waxing, which I would be doing anyway if I painted it. Do you do anything to it in between? The guy I spoke to at a local paint shop was making it sound like a constant miserable experience - like I would be spending more time polishing than flying. Obviously, he was biased and trying to sell a full paint job.

Yep. Lester is outside. One of the pictures I posted above shows him in the snow (and still shiny). I polish once a year. I use Grade S Nuvite (final polish) and a $19.95 handheld (small 4in) orbital polisher from AutoZone with microfiber bonnets. I own about 20 bonnets as I change them often.

First, for those whining about polishing, there are actually two processes to a polished beauty. Most of the whining comes from the first process, compounding. Compounding is more difficult because the compounder is heavier (at least to me). Compounding prepares the surface to accept the polish. It smooths out scratches and imperfections for the surface. You may use various grades of Nuvite during compounding based on the problem. If there is heavy corrosion, I use Nuvite 9. For general chemical stain and overall compounding, I use Nuvite 7.

Compounding under the wings is a *****. I recommend a nice metallic silver under the wings and under the horizontal stabilizer and elevators.

The surface may need several applications. The more you work the surface with the compounder and the material, the better the look and the shine. After compounding, the surface with be shiny, but the material leaves swirls in the surface. That is where the final polish (Grade S) comes into play. This finish removes those swirls and leaves the surface with a mirror finish. If you use the Cyclo as recommended, you will get wonderful results. I am nearly fifty, short and overweight with a weak elbow. The little orbital polisher works great for me because I go over the surface several times with no stress to my body parts.

Once the airplane is compounded, there is no reason to do it again unless it has been neglected for some time. I just polish now, and each time I polish the finish gets better and lasts longer. In between, I wipe down bugs, oil and dirt with NuImage, Nuvite's cleaner for polished surfaces. I get chemical stains on the surface under my cover. If not for that, I wouldn't have to polish as often as I do. The NuImage cleaner costs no more that Meguirs Cleaner Wax.

Some folks worry about damaging the surface of these vintage airplanes with polish. Most metal airplanes of this era, including all Luscombes, came from the factory polished. Paint is a modern addition. Also, when folks speak of the horrors of polishing, they are remembering the cornstarch and flour days (I've had a few of those myself).

Go to www.perfectpolish.com , read their polishing guide and order their sample kit. This allows you to try the process without getting too much invested. The polish may seem expensive, but a can of Grade S will polish an airplane a couple of times. Another great site about polishing is the Swift website (www.saginawwings.com). These folks take their polish seriously!

Another note, my Lester, God bless him, is a dog. He has 63 years of hangar rash, hail damage and being on the losing end of some bad crosswinds. But when we pull up to park at fly-ins, nobody notices his flaws. It's all about the shine, and I'm working on getting that perfected.

Deb
 
In 1987 I stripped and polished my 170A. It took most of the Summer working on it evenings and weekends. I used regular automotive paint stripper and wood spatulas. Finished up with small scrub brushes around the rivits and seams. I removed all tail surfaces, ailerons, flaps, and everything else that would unscrew, except the wings. I did loosen and lift the wings to remove the struts so I could finish them and install new rubber moldings. It took quite a bit of polishing to polish out the 'scrub marks' from the previous paint job. I did win best 170A at the International Cessna 170 convention in Fairbanks the next year.

The big thing is to keep it looking good. It takes a lot of work to keep them looking nice, as aluminum really likes to corrode, especially in a hanger with galvanized steel siding. On damp days you can almost see it dull and corrode. I sure do like the way they look though.

Unfortunately, due to family member illness and deaths I didn't fly for 10 years. The plane just sat in the hanger. There was surface corrosion that could not be polished out and look good, so I had it painted. It's really nice, but not quite the same.
 

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Tom, what brand/color did you use for that 170?

I checked the hangar thinking that I still had a can of touch up, but I guess it went with the aircraft and I don't remember the numbers.

it was a large flake silver imron, off the NAPA charts.
 
Deb,

Thank you for the valuable insight on the process that you've taken with your plane. I'm just getting started in on the restoration of a stock 1961 Cessna 185 and I would have been lost without the instruction that you gave in this thread!

-Tyler
 
Deb,

Thank you for the valuable insight on the process that you've taken with your plane. I'm just getting started in on the restoration of a stock 1961 Cessna 185 and I would have been lost without the instruction that you gave in this thread!

-Tyler

Wow. What a surprise to find this post! You're welcome Tyler! Hope your restoration goes well.

That thread was started two years ago. Ironically, as I type this I'm sitting in my husband's workshop riveting on this.

a4ehuje3.jpg


We decided to rebuild my horizontal stabilizer during this annual. So we're kind of involved in a little restoration work as well.

Deb
 
'Bout dang time Ya'll came outta retirement! :wink2:

Looks nice an' purdy! :D
 
My experience is also with a Luscombe which is a smaller plane than the 170. I also got steered to the PerfectPolish website and used their methods which, if followed, will greatly reduce the amount of labor required. I have a big powerful Milwaukee compounding buffer and the Cyclo which is a wonder machine. It still is a bit of work though but the Luscombe, 170 and Swift are three airplanes that practically beg you to polish them.

The metalized wings might not work out that well however because "metalized" is not the same as stressed skin construction. It's basically just a process of replacing the fabric with thin sheets of aluminum and the quality of the work varies widely. Something that works very well on the 170 that you might want to consider is a scheme where the polished sections are the trim - the majority of the airframe is painted but the stripes and other trim accents are the polished sections.
 
Just an update with a few photos: I have most of the body done and started in on the wings. Anybody have any good tips at efficiently polishing the ribbed surfaces (flaps, ailerons, elevators & rudder)?
photo1yv.jpg
 
Deb, you are a life saver!

As strange as it may sound, I also came across a 61 185. It was my grandpas and now it's mine. It's been sitting for about 15-20 years and the polished tail and wings have just been collecting dust and dirt. Hopefully with your guide, it will look as good as your luscombe. I wonder what I would find if I stripped the 55 year old paint off of the airplane.
 

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Some folks worry about damaging the surface of these vintage airplanes with polish. Most metal airplanes of this era, including all Luscombes, came from the factory polished. Paint is a modern addition.

Deb, while I agree these planes came from the factory unpainted, they were not polished. They were simply unpainted. No plane ever came from a Luscombe or Cessna factory looking like your plane! That being said, I agree it doesn't hurt the metal to polish them. Boeing and American Airlines did a study since American's fleet was polished for decades. They determined there was no metal on the pads or cloths after polishing. Polishing is only moving the molecules around, pushing them into the low spots.

As someone told me, a painted airplane never looks better than the second it's pushed out of the paint shop... it's downhill from there. A polished airplane gets better every time.

My two cents... I polish about 3 times a year, maybe 4 depending on what shows I'm going to. Once you have the plane to the final stages, polishing with S only takes me about 8 hours and I have fabric wings. It's a fun experience for me. Nobody stops by my hangar when I'm polishing since they don't want to help! I crank up the music, put on the fan, and get to work.

Once you have it polished... get ready for everyone to stop and talk to you. You'll get several standard questions and comments: I bet you polish more than you fly. (No, I fly well over 100 hours a year.) Is it chrome? Is it stainless? Is that a silver paint? How often do you polish?

26078165054_64a3325984_b.jpg
 
:thumbsup: Go for it! I'm a granny, and I stripped and polished my Luscombe. The best source for information is perfectpolish.com and nuvite.com. It's work, especially compounding the surface to get it ready to accept the polish, but after that, I only polish yearly. My Luscombe is parked outside.

Tom is correct about some surface imperfections. Some will not polish out, however, compounding and then polishing will make them less noticeable by smoothing the edges. Nuvite has various grades to handle these issues. I use Number 7 for compounding and I have used Number 9 for the really tough stuff.

I don't have a Cyclo. I understand that I could get even better results with one, however I'm afraid I could only use it for short periods. My shine comes from a compounder from Harbor Frieght ($29.95), a handheld orbiting polisher from Auto Zone ($19) with mircrofiber bonnets, a set of good microfiber towels from perfectpolish and Nuvite. Do not buy Nuvite from Aircraft Spruce. Their half pound can costs as much as the pounder from perfectpolish. A can goes a long, long way.

Once you start polishing, it becomes addictive. The results are so rewarding.

BTW, I used Napier RemovAll for stripping my airplane. It's nontoxic and biodegradable. We stripped Lester in just a day.

Deb McFarland
 
Hi Deb. I really enjoyed your post about polishing your Luscombe. You have a beautiful plane! I have been looking for a few years about getting a Cessna 150D or E, my favorite models. I live in Peoria, Arizona (northwest Phoenix) and the sun here is absolutely brutal on anything painted. That is one of the concerns I have about buying a painted plane in Arizona as the sun is bad and hangers are expensive. Tiedowns at Glendale airport are on $48 a month and it's only 10 minutes from home. Some of my friends in the Cessna 150 club have stripped the paint off and polished their planes....I just recently found a 150D in Nevada and it is already polished...it looks nice though not as nice as yours. The owners sent me some photos and said there is some surface corrosion on the plane but it doesnt look too bad. Seems like someone told me you can save a lot in weight by removing the paint....something good when you only have 100hp. Do you know the weight savings on a 150? Seems like also here in Arizona, it would be easier to polish an aluminum skin rather than painted as the sun is so nasty here.
 
Bill,

You're responding to a years-old post and I don't think Debbie posts here any longer. In fact, she sold her Luscombe (but she and her husband kept "his" Luscombe).

A guess is that weight savings from paint could easily be 30 pounds or more, depending on painter skill.
 
Bill,

You're responding to a years-old post and I don't think Debbie posts here any longer. In fact, she sold her Luscombe (but she and her husband kept "his" Luscombe).

A guess is that weight savings from paint could easily be 30 pounds or more, depending on painter skill.

Drake,

Thanks for the reply! I appreciate it! That's too bad Deb sold her plane but good they still have a Luscombe in the family. Many years ago when I worked at Gila Bend AFAF, AZ, we had a Luscombe make a landing by mistake (it's a military base closed to civilian traffic). I enjoyed talking to the pilot. They are a neat design.

Seems like I heard someone on our Cessna 150 club say the weight savings on a 150 was around 23 pounds but not sure. You know a light airplane always flys better.

I am leaning toward getting a polished aluminum finish vs painted as the Arizona sun is so brutal. Thanks again for your response! This is a cool site and its my first post!
 
Drake,

Thanks for the reply! I appreciate it! That's too bad Deb sold her plane but good they still have a Luscombe in the family. Many years ago when I worked at Gila Bend AFAF, AZ, we had a Luscombe make a landing by mistake (it's a military base closed to civilian traffic). I enjoyed talking to the pilot. They are a neat design.

Seems like I heard someone on our Cessna 150 club say the weight savings on a 150 was around 23 pounds but not sure. You know a light airplane always flys better.

I am leaning toward getting a polished aluminum finish vs painted as the Arizona sun is so brutal. Thanks again for your response! This is a cool site and its my first post!
AZ is a good place for a polished aluminum finish.

I stared this thread and ended up painting mine, which was a good thing for me as I ended up in coastal Virginia before I ended up selling it. Where I live now is NOT the place to own a polished airplane.
 
Why would a thread with 35 posts on a not-exactly hot topic get 12.000 views?
Just wondering how these things work.
 
Keeping a plane polished up isn't too bad if it's in the right environment and hangared. I actually enjoyed the process when I had time. Stripping and painting a plane is a risky move. If they were etched before painting, which a lot of them were, you will never get it polished and you've wasted a lot of time. My recommendation is, if you want a polished plane, buy a polished plane and keep it that way.
 
Keeping a plane polished up isn't too bad if it's in the right environment and hangared. I actually enjoyed the process when I had time. Stripping and painting a plane is a risky move. If they were etched before painting, which a lot of them were, you will never get it polished and you've wasted a lot of time. My recommendation is, if you want a polished plane, buy a polished plane and keep it that way.
Right environment is key. I could have probably gotten away with it in San Diego with maybe a little extra effort polishing, but coastal Virginia would have been a nightmare.
 
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