biking

spiderweb

Final Approach
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Ben
Looks like my running days may be numbered. I am used to running 25-30 miles per week, but I've injured my right foot recently, and that's after a knee injury last year, etc.

Want to get back into biking. What are your recommendations for a good racing bike? Budget is about $1500.
 
I got one of the rigs off bikesdirect.com not name brand but top of the line components and Chinese frames that come from the same factory the name brands do. At $1500, that's where I'd be looking.
 
$1500 for a bike???

I didn't pay that much for any of my four most recent cars.

-Rich
 
Cannondale makes a fine product and has a well designed website for browsing their catalog.

I may be in the market for one of their Synapse models soon, replacing a Cannondale I built up in the early 80's which is still roadworthy.
 
$1500 for a bike???

I didn't pay that much for any of my four most recent cars.

-Rich

My first bike was $1. Really. I got it at a yard sale when I was a kid in the 70s. It was made in the 50s. But I have to say that I bought up the food chain from there.

Considering how much I am running, I plan on biking 100 - 150 miles per week, and I want something good. That's much more than I drive per week, so I don't mind paying for something light, fast, and durable.
 
Good grief... everything's a racket these days.

-Rich

Well, a decent get-around-town bike is only a couple of hundred, but that's not my "mission," so to speak.
 
Cannondale makes a fine product and has a well designed website for browsing their catalog.

I may be in the market for one of their Synapse models soon, replacing a Cannondale I built up in the early 80's which is still roadworthy.

Connondale is what I've been looking at, and the Synapse models are in the price range.
 
For those of you reading this thinking I'm loaded, know this: I don't own an airplane! :rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Connondale is what I've been looking at, and the Synapse models are in the price range.

FWIW, the one I'm looking at is a new 2013 model at a local dealer, discounted from about $1,600 to $1,199.

With the mountains we have around here and knowing my limitations, I'm only looking at triple chainring models to get a super low climbing (bail out) gear.
 
Has anyone tried an electric-assist bicycle? I just tried one for the first time last week, and WOW, is that fun! I still ended up panting at the end of a very short ride; because I was seeing how fast I could get up to 24 mph! When I was going downhill, it got kinda scary with how fast I was accelerating.

You still pedal; but for every pedal you do, the real wheel moves like 4 other guys were helping you pedal. It added a new dimension of fun to riding.

I had never considered electric powered bicycles before; but after a short ride, darn it, they are super cool. What's wrong with seeing more scenery for your effort?

Try one if you can.
 
My last bike was a Trek; entry level now is ~$1000. Just bought a Specialized, in time to mess up my neck, and have been looking at it the last three months . . . At least it was on Craigslist. Cannondale is good, and Raleigh road bikes are surprisingly sophisticated now, at $1000-1200.

Bikedirect is an option, avoiding brand names, but I've never known anyone who had one. Needless to say, these are all road bikes I've looked at, there's too much variation and I'm not interested in mountain bikes.
 
Connondale is what I've been looking at, and the Synapse models are in the price range.


My personal opinion is that Felt bikes are among the best values out there. Personally, I ride a Giant Defy Composite 2, which is an "endurance" frameset. It's more upright than is a traditional roadracing bike and with a longer wheelbase. Bikes like that were originally intended for long distance riding and races on rough roads like Paris - Roubaix, but they're now popular with those of us who'd like to be a little more upright than we would be on a criterium focuses bike.
 
FWIW, the one I'm looking at is a new 2013 model at a local dealer, discounted from about $1,600 to $1,199.

With the mountains we have around here and knowing my limitations, I'm only looking at triple chainring models to get a super low climbing (bail out) gear.

Same thoughts here.
 
Connondale is what I've been looking at, and the Synapse models are in the price range.

That's what my wife and I have and we love them. We don't ride nearly as much as you and the hills around New Orleans are...well...nonexistent, but I wouldn't trade them. Our local bike shop owner and friend suggested them as they're a little more upright which is suppose to be easier on the back. I'm early 40's, she's early 30's. We do the MS-150 every year, but usually just 20-30 mile rides every so often. If you can find an all carbon frame in that price range (maybe used?), they're really smooth. Good luck!!
 
Want to get back into biking. What are your recommendations for a good racing bike? Budget is about $1500.


$1500 for a bike???

I didn't pay that much for any of my four most recent cars.

-Rich

And here my suggestion would be "Up the budget from 1500 a ways" :eek:

Sure, you can go to the local Target or Wal-Mart and buy a bike for less, but for something that will be used for hours every week, 1500 is a minimum.

I was shocked a few years ago when I purchased my Bianchi road bike. I definitely upped my budget from "sub-1000" after trying out a few bikes.

Ended up paying way over that for the Cannondale full-suspension mountain bike that has become the favorite.

Much cheaper to get a bike with top-quality components to start than to scrimp on the purchase only to throw more money at it as components are upgraded. I spent quite a bit up front, and haven't spent a penny since, other than replacing tubes on the road bike.

Get good stuff fitted properly, and riding is a joy.
Get a lousy bike and it will just sit, unused, as it's no fun to ride.


Edit: Don't even sit on a $3000 or $4000 bike. You don't want to know what you're missing (no, I didn't spend that much).
 
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Craigslist man!

I bought a high end cannondale road bike for 800ish that some knuckle head paid like 3k for a couple years ago.

When I bought a couple led lights for it at REI, I checked out the "new model" honestly I couldn't really tell that much of a diffrence minus the extra $2,000 bucks lol
 
The real difference in a good quality bike are the components on it. Unless you are a pro, forget justifying the few ounces of weight savings of the lighter high end components. Those can be reached by eating a light lunch. ;) What you are looking for are the smoothness and reliability of the higher end shifting components.

As was mentioned above, get fitted by a bike shop that knows what they are doing. Riding a poorly fit bike makes for a painful ride. I won't go into the carbon versus metal debate.

I will put a plug in for Cannondale. Back in the early part of the century, I bought a Cannondale R3000. After logging 18,000 miles on it, the frame cracked at the chain stay. Cannondale not only replaced the frame with a CAAD 9 but also paid the bike shop to move all my Durace components over. I'm currently riding a Cannondale Black Edition with electronic shifting. Talk about moving up from steam gauges to glass...


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If the purpose of the bike is exercise, why spend money getting something lighter and "better"?

A "lousy" heavy low-tech bike would provide much more exercise. Plus it wouldn't waste money better spent on aviation.
 
If the purpose of the bike is exercise, why spend money getting something lighter and "better"?

A "lousy" heavy low-tech bike would provide much more exercise. Plus it wouldn't waste money better spent on aviation.

Because you'll be buying a new one every other month.
 
I like the cannondale line ,can't really go wrong with there product,you just have to pick the bike for your riding style.
 
Because you'll be buying a new one every other month.

I'm not buying it (no pun). Why do you think a less expensive bike will wear out in a month (excuse me, every other month)?
 
If the purpose of the bike is exercise, why spend money getting something lighter and "better"?

A "lousy" heavy low-tech bike would provide much more exercise. Plus it wouldn't waste money better spent on aviation.

Clunky heavy ill fitting and shifting bikes are no fun to ride. Then it sits in the corner of the garage collecting dust while you sit on your fat butt drinking Duff beer.
 
As far as components go...

...in my experience, there's little difference between mid-range and high-range components from a function/durability perspective.

The higher-end components are certainly prettier and better finished and more elegant - if you like that sort of thing they are not dissimilar to a fine watch. If that floats your boat, its worth the difference.

But I think the componentry on a quality bike, Cannondale or otherwise, at around $750 would match the higher priced bikes for durability. $1,500 or so is a "sweet spot" where I think you're maximizing function without going overboard on cosmetics and/or "bling".

BTW, if its not improper or poor form, I currently have a Zipp 2001 carbon fiber road bike listed on eBay, with about 2 days left. Built up in 1995, got extensive use on the roads of S FL for about 10 years. Geared too high for the N GA mountains, and has sat for the last 9 years or so while I rode my old Cannondale or a Trek mountain bike bought used. Anyway, just search eBay if you're at all interested or curious.
 
If the purpose of the bike is exercise, why spend money getting something lighter and "better"?

A "lousy" heavy low-tech bike would provide much more exercise. Plus it wouldn't waste money better spent on aviation.

"It never gets easier, you just go faster." - Greg Lemond

The price breakpoint for a decent entry carbon racing bike is about $2,500, which will get you a good frame, low end wheel set, and a bottom level decent road group set. You can buy aluminum for less, but aluminum frames have a life time and a harsh ride.

If you don't go carbon, go steel. Steel frames are designed to give a little for a smoother ride like carbon, and the weight penalty isn't significant over aluminum.

I ride a Specialized Tarmac with a SRAM group set. The group set is fine for my needs, but I'll probably upgrade the wheels soon.
 
Ask around for a good bike fitter in your area and get fitted, pay the fee and get fitted. Don't cheap out on this. I bike at least 100 miles a week, most weeks close to 200. Before I was fitted I constantly had injury issues. After the fitting, no issues other than occasional fatigue related stuff with 100+ mile rides that clear up in a day or two. Get fitted, you will be much happier.

Also, the price of lighter goes up exponentially, unless you are racing it isn't worth it. You want a bike that can stand up to the road you ride, tires that won't flat and rims that won't go out of true if you hit a pot hole. I like Shimano integra components, mavic kysirum elite rims and continental tires, clinchers 25 mm (easy to fix 50 miles from home).

There are lots of good bikes out there, but if it doesn't fit you properly, you won't be happy.
 
I think people are confusing biking for transportation with biking for exercise.
 
I think people are confusing biking for transportation with biking for exercise.

I don't bike for either- I bike for Fun!

First mountain bike was a used Cannondale, very happy with it until it was stolen. When shopping for a replacement, the choice ended up between two new Cannondales with the identical frame, just different component sets. I had already decided to buy the less expensive bike, as they are "the same", and I like the color better, then rode them, back to back.

No way, I thought, could the bike that is almost twice as expensive be worth it. Not interested in bling.

Wow.

No comparison in the shifting, braking, traction, yada yada, nicest bike I've ever been on.

Bought the expensive one, and have been thrilled with it ever since.
Well worth paying more up front.

Neither of my bikes has a carbon frame. I use a bike rack upon rare occasion, and carbon frames are not to be clamped in a rack.
Road bike is a mid-level steel frame
Mountain bike is upper-end aluminum. Couldn't be happier.
 
I think people are confusing biking for transportation with biking for exercise.

No confusion here....... I bike for exercise. I ride a lot by myself plus a once or twice a week in a group. A heavy clunky bike is no fun to ride, especially if there are many hills like we have around here. On top of that, if you want to ride in a group it's much harder to keep up on a heavy bike, ask me how I know... Anything under 20 pounds should be fine.
 
As was mentioned above, get fitted by a bike shop that knows what they are doing. Riding a poorly fit bike makes for a painful ride. I won't go into the carbon versus metal debate.
:yeahthat: This. I've owned about 5 bikes during my adult life, and none of them really gave me that "one with the bicycle" feeling until I went to a store that was willing to spend the time to find the right frame for my body size and dimensions. I learned that all the frames I'd been buying were too big for me, and settled on a 20-inch frame Trek 2000. It's not a carbon frame bike and I wouldn't win any races with it, but it suits me well and I can ride for hours on it without getting overly fatigued. I paid just over $1000 for it in 2000.

Agree with those who say that entry prices for a high quality bike are worth paying. If I were in the market today I would consider a Cannondale endurance road bike like the Synapse. Ben is looking for a racing bike though, so other choices may be more suitable for him.
 
I'm not buying it (no pun). Why do you think a less expensive bike will wear out in a month (excuse me, every other month)?

I'm with you on this one. The last bike I bought was a Schwinn I paid a bit under $300.00 for by the time all the accessories were included, at the Target store in College Point, Queens (not far from LGA), about 15 years ago. I rode it in New York City, probably an average of 50 - 60 miles a week, until about three years ago when I moved. The bike's still going strong on "loan" to a friend of mine who recently lost his driver's license (DUI).

My first legal job was as a bicycle mechanic / salesman when I was 14. Back then, an average-quality adult bike cost about $60.00 - $75.00. A "good" adult bike went for about $100.00 - $125.00. A really "high-end" bike, of interest only to a tiny fraction of super-serious cyclists and available only through a specialty bike shop, maybe $300.00.

The most expensive bikes my employer (a general department store) sold were in the $200.00 range. I loved selling those bikes because of the commission, but I thought the people who bought them were idiots. They weren't that much better than bikes that sold for half their price. Better? Yes. Twice as good? No.

Mind you, I was a pretty serious cyclist back then. I used to put on about 50 miles a week on Brooklyn streets just getting to work and back, in all weather. During the summers, I'd make weekend trips from Brooklyn to Jones Beach (about 35 miles each way) a couple of times a month, weather permitting; and I did the Brooklyn to Fire Island trip (about 50 miles each way) at least once or twice every summer.

So I think I qualified as a pretty serious cyclist. And yet I did all that riding on a Schwinn that I bought from the place I worked. It cost me $100.00 after my discount, which would put it in the "good" range for a consumer bicycle by early 1970's prices, but not the "top-of-the-line" range. I rode that bike hard until I went into the service, then my three younger brothers successively rode it as they grew into it, and my father now rides it.

I became a less serious cyclist as an adult. I still continued to ride, but I never bought into the New York City bicycle subculture, which I consider just half a click short of being a domestic terrorist organization. So I guess having been out of the official loop all those years is part of why the prices you're talking about stun me. It's not even so much the prices that blow me away as the magnitude of difference between average and high end.

In my opinion, there just isn't sufficient difference between an average-quality bike and a high-end bike to justify that magnitude of difference in price. Twice the price? Maybe justified. Thrice the price? Extremely doubtful. Anything above that? Unquestionably larceny.

Of course, that's just my opinion, based on my own experience, namely, that I've only purchased three bikes in my life, all Schwinns, none of which ever needed more than ordinary maintenance, and each of which cost < $300.00. I purchased the first Schwinn when I was 14, which said bike is still being ridden; the second for about $150.00 right after I got out of the service, which I rode until it was stolen about 18 years later; and a third Schwinn about 15 years ago to replace the stolen one, which is also still in service, on loan to my drunken friend. That bike was a bit under $300.00 at Target, including accessories.

So now I'm reading here that $1,500.00 is on the low end for quality bikes these days? Sure enough, my 45 seconds on Yahoo search extensive research bears that out. People do in fact pay $4,000.00 or more for bicycles.

Okay, fine. To each his own. As long as they're not stealing the money, why should I care how other people choose to **** it away? But I also see from a quick search that I can still get what look like perfectly adequate Schwinns -- not top of the line, but perfectly serviceable -- in the $300.00 - $400.00 range. It's hard for me to conceive of a bike being that much better than one of the Schwinns that it justifies a more than tenfold price difference.

But again, it's really not my business how other people spend their money. If someone wants to plop down $4K for a bike, more power to him. I do, however, reserve the right to suspect that he's an idiot for doing so.

-Rich
 
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I'm not buying it (no pun). Why do you think a less expensive bike will wear out in a month (excuse me, every other month)?

My wife rides extensivley. After trashing a few $500 bikes that left her stranded and doing maintenance in the middle of nowhere, we dropped $3500 for a high end mountain bike and it's been trouble free since.

Crossed a few mountain ranges between CO and UT.

No way in hell I'm getting on a $300 bike to ride the Kokipelli trail.

On the paved side of it, she rides rides like RATPOD, RAMROD, The Chafe 150 and does similar rides on her own with no support. 75 miles into the Pintler mountains isn't the time you want to figure out you should have spent a few more bucks on your ride.

Heading to the grocery store 2 miles down the road to fill your basket is one thing. Having a bike that's not going to let you down when you need it the most is another.
 
I'm with you on this one. The last bike I bought was a Schwinn I paid a bit under $300.00 for by the time all the accessories were included, at the Target store in College Point, Queens (not far from LGA), about 15 years ago. I rode it in New York City, probably an average of 50 - 60 miles a week, until about three years ago when I moved. The bike's still going strong on "loan" to a friend of mine who recently lost his driver's license (DUI).

My first legal job was as a bicycle mechanic / salesman when I was 14. Back then, an average-quality adult bike cost about $60.00 - $75.00. A "good" adult bike went for about $100.00 - $125.00. A really "high-end" bike, of interest only to a tiny fraction of super-serious cyclists and available only through a specialty bike shop, maybe $300.00.

The most expensive bikes my employer (a general department store) sold were in the $200.00 range. I loved selling those bikes because of the commission, but I thought the people who bought them were idiots. They weren't that much better than bikes that sold for half their price. Better? Yes. Twice as good? No.

Mind you, I was a pretty serious cyclist back then. I used to put on about 50 miles a week on Brooklyn streets just getting to work and back, in all weather. During the summers, I'd make weekend trips from Brooklyn to Jones Beach (about 35 miles each way) a couple of times a month, weather permitting; and I did the Brooklyn to Fire Island trip (about 50 miles each way) at least once or twice every summer.

So I think I qualified as a pretty serious cyclist. And yet I did all that riding on a Schwinn that I bought from the place I worked. It cost me $100.00 after my discount, which would put it in the "good" range for a consumer bicycle by early 1970's prices, but not the "top-of-the-line" range. I rode that bike hard until I went into the service, then my three younger brothers successively rode it as they grew into it, and my father now rides it.

I became a less serious cyclist as an adult. I still continued to ride, but I never bought into the New York City bicycle subculture, which I consider just half a click short of being a domestic terrorist organization. So I guess having been out of the official loop all those years is part of why the prices you're talking about stun me. It's not even so much the prices that blow me away as the magnitude of difference between average and high end.

In my opinion, there just isn't sufficient difference between an average-quality bike and a high-end bike to justify that magnitude of difference in price. Twice the price? Maybe justified. Thrice the price? Extremely doubtful. Anything above that? Unquestionably larceny.

Of course, that's just my opinion, based on my own experience, namely, that I've only purchased three bikes in my life, all Schwinns, none of which ever needed more than ordinary maintenance, and each of which cost < $300.00. I purchased the first Schwinn when I was 14, which said bike is still being ridden; the second for about $150.00 right after I got out of the service, which I rode until it was stolen about 18 years later; and a third Schwinn about 15 years ago to replace the stolen one, which is also still in service, on loan to my drunken friend. That bike was a bit under $300.00 for at Target, including accessories.

So now I'm reading here that $1,500.00 is on the low end for quality bikes these days? Sure enough, my 45 seconds on Yahoo search extensive research bears that out. People do in fact pay $4,000.00 or more for bicycles.

Okay, fine. To each his own. As long as they're not stealing the money, why should I care how other people choose to **** it away? But I also see from a quick search that I can still get what look like perfectly adequate Schwinns -- not top of the line, but perfectly serviceable -- in the $300.00 - $400.00 range. It's hard for me to conceive of a bike being that much better than one of the Schwinns that it justifies a more than tenfold price difference.

But again, it's really not my business how other people spend their money. If someone wants to plop down $4K for a bike, more power to him. I do, however, reserve the right to suspect that he's an idiot for doing so.

-Rich

I always get a kick or learn something from your posts Rich, but this time I think you need to take a thirty mile ride on your Schwinn then get a loaner modern bike and ride it for thirty miles before you start calling us idiots.....


FWIW up until about 6 years ago I had a 1974 or so vintage Motobecane 10 speed and I was of the same opinion as you..... until I ran it over in my garage and needed to get a new bike. I was amazed at the difference plus my ironman brother in law told me to get fitted by a pro before buying. which I did. You can think what you want, but I've been there like you, and I'm here now, and I can tell you, here is much better. YMMV.....
 
....perfectly adequate Schwinns --

Very good comments.

Along the same lines, a Cessna 150 is a perfectly adequate airplane. I have enjoyed every minute of time I've spent in a C-150.

But when I cross the Rocky mountains, I sure like having 300 hp, and to effortlessly go over the top of them way faster than the 150's redline.
 
I wouldn't necessarily hate on Schwinns. I put a lot of miles on a vintage Schwinn Traveler, 21 speed roadie with sport touring ergos.

I really wish I would have kept the frame. The components were crap, but it would be a neat project to retrofit one with a modern OEM Axis wheelset and maybe 105 components, for sort of a ride around town and park it somewhere bike.

I was disappointed that my nice aluminum frame MTB bit the big one after about ten years of service. The steering tube finally cracked. Most modern aluminum frames have oversized steering tubes, especially at the bottom to handle the stresses. Stay away from older aluminum frames that are built as if they were steel frames.
 
I wouldn't necessarily hate on Schwinns. I put a lot of miles on a vintage Schwinn ....

I still have the Schwinn Varsity I got on my 14th birthday hanging up on the hangar wall behind the airplane. Put many, many hard miles on that tank, including treating it like a dirt bike, jumping off junk on the woods. Most parts have been replaced after years of abuse. Bent forks, frayed cables, lotsa bent rims, bearings replaced after too much water and mud. Great bikes that will stand up to just about anything this side of a nuclear blast.

Someday it would be fun to bring it down and spruce it back up.
 
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