biking

Non Compos Mentis said:
I still have the Schwinn Varsity I got on my 14th birthday hanging up on the hangar wall behind the airplane. Put many, many hard miles on that tank, including treating it like a dirt bike, jumping off junk on the woods. Most parts have been replaced after years of abuse. Bent forks, frayed cables, lotsa bent rims, bearings replaced after too much water and mud. Great bikes that will stand up to just about anything this side of a nuclear blast.

Someday it would be fun to bring it down and spruce it back up.
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Funny thing, I rode my dad's Varsity through college. I was never worried about anyone stealing it. If anyone tried to, I could probably catch up to them at a jogging pace.
 
PaulS said:
I always get a kick or learn something from your posts Rich, but this time I think you need to take a thirty mile ride on your Schwinn then get a loaner modern bike and ride it for thirty miles before you start calling us idiots.....


FWIW up until about 6 years ago I had a 1974 or so vintage Motobecane 10 speed and I was of the same opinion as you..... until I ran it over in my garage and needed to get a new bike. I was amazed at the difference plus my ironman brother in law told me to get fitted by a pro before buying. which I did. You can think what you want, but I've been there like you, and I'm here now, and I can tell you, here is much better. YMMV.....
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Hey, I did say "suspect."

-Rich
 
Sac Arrow said:
I wouldn't necessarily hate on Schwinns. I put a lot of miles on a vintage Schwinn Traveler, 21 speed roadie with sport touring ergos.

I really wish I would have kept the frame. The components were crap, but it would be a neat project to retrofit one with a modern OEM Axis wheelset and maybe 105 components, for sort of a ride around town and park it somewhere bike.

I was disappointed that my nice aluminum frame MTB bit the big one after about ten years of service. The steering tube finally cracked. Most modern aluminum frames have oversized steering tubes, especially at the bottom to handle the stresses. Stay away from older aluminum frames that are built as if they were steel frames.
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I bought Schwinns for my goddaughters when they were 7 and 6 years old. When they outgrew them, we were passing them down to their younger sisters when I noticed that the rear rim on one of the bikes was bent, and the bearings on the other rear wheel were worn. I called Schwinn to purchase a new rear rim for the one and a new set of bearings for the other.

The lady on the other end looked up the serial numbers and found that there had been a lot of reports of premature failure on the wheels in question, so she said she would send me two replacement ones for free. I almost declined the freebies because I knew that both girls (especially the younger one) were tough on bikes; but my inherent cheapness won out, and I just said, "Well, thank you very much," and gave her my address.

I don't know if the bikes were still in warranty, but this happened several years after I purchased them. The new and improved wheels arrived, postpaid, a few days later. I was pretty pleased.

I don't know if those bikes are still rolling. All I know is that they were still going strong when the younger sisters also outgrew them and passed them on to some other kids I didn't know.

(As an aside, I remember that the two bikes had sequential serial numbers. I always thought that was pretty cool, too.)

-Rich
 
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When I was a kid, my first road bike was a Gitane 10 speed. My second was a Huffy ten speed road bike which I rode in high school. The quality of that Huffy bike was horrid. I mean, we're talking playground grade steel tubular sections that are flattened and spot welded to the rear axle carriers, brake calipers and rear derailleurs made of stamped galvanized pieces, and even the hubs themselves were formed sheet metal. This was the K-Mart $69 special bike. To Huffy's credit, it was sufficiently engineered such that almost all components including the frame failed at roughly the same time after four years.

I see that they don't make road bikes anymore. They seem to focus on kids bikes and cruisers, and their build quality appears to have been upped somewhat but I'm sure it's still pretty bad.
 
FastEddieB said:
My first 10-speed was a Gitane as well.

Had not thought of that bike for many, many years.
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My first bike was a Sears 10 speed that I saved up for by having a paper route. I think I bought that bike when I was 12. I thought it was the greatest thing, but looking back it was a total piece of crap.

But I worked for it and was proud at the time.
 
My first 10 speed was a Murray. Put almost 9k on that bike by the time I was able to drive a car. Gave up cycling until my 30s when I bought a Huffy. Rode it a couple of weeks and hated it. Parked it and didn't ride again until my 40s. Since then, been riding bikes that were designed for riding and haven't looked back.

If you're serious about cycling, then make a wise investment. Worth it.


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brentee said:
That's what my wife and I have and we love them. We don't ride nearly as much as you and the hills around New Orleans are...well...nonexistent, but I wouldn't trade them. Our local bike shop owner and friend suggested them as they're a little more upright which is suppose to be easier on the back. I'm early 40's, she's early 30's. We do the MS-150 every year, but usually just 20-30 mile rides every so often. If you can find an all carbon frame in that price range (maybe used?), they're really smooth. Good luck!!
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thanks!
 
Non Compos Mentis said:
And here my suggestion would be "Up the budget from 1500 a ways" :eek:

Sure, you can go to the local Target or Wal-Mart and buy a bike for less, but for something that will be used for hours every week, 1500 is a minimum.

I was shocked a few years ago when I purchased my Bianchi road bike. I definitely upped my budget from "sub-1000" after trying out a few bikes.

Ended up paying way over that for the Cannondale full-suspension mountain bike that has become the favorite.

Much cheaper to get a bike with top-quality components to start than to scrimp on the purchase only to throw more money at it as components are upgraded. I spent quite a bit up front, and haven't spent a penny since, other than replacing tubes on the road bike.

Get good stuff fitted properly, and riding is a joy.
Get a lousy bike and it will just sit, unused, as it's no fun to ride.


Edit: Don't even sit on a $3000 or $4000 bike. You don't want to know what you're missing (no, I didn't spend that much).
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I've done that. And I know what you mean!
 
Wow, that's real integrity on Cannondale's part!

Marauder said:
The real difference in a good quality bike are the components on it. Unless you are a pro, forget justifying the few ounces of weight savings of the lighter high end components. Those can be reached by eating a light lunch. ;) What you are looking for are the smoothness and reliability of the higher end shifting components.

As was mentioned above, get fitted by a bike shop that knows what they are doing. Riding a poorly fit bike makes for a painful ride. I won't go into the carbon versus metal debate.

I will put a plug in for Cannondale. Back in the early part of the century, I bought a Cannondale R3000. After logging 18,000 miles on it, the frame cracked at the chain stay. Cannondale not only replaced the frame with a CAAD 9 but also paid the bike shop to move all my Durace components over. I'm currently riding a Cannondale Black Edition with electronic shifting. Talk about moving up from steam gauges to glass...


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Thanks for the info, and for the reference!

FastEddieB said:
As far as components go...

...in my experience, there's little difference between mid-range and high-range components from a function/durability perspective.

The higher-end components are certainly prettier and better finished and more elegant - if you like that sort of thing they are not dissimilar to a fine watch. If that floats your boat, its worth the difference.

But I think the componentry on a quality bike, Cannondale or otherwise, at around $750 would match the higher priced bikes for durability. $1,500 or so is a "sweet spot" where I think you're maximizing function without going overboard on cosmetics and/or "bling".

BTW, if its not improper or poor form, I currently have a Zipp 2001 carbon fiber road bike listed on eBay, with about 2 days left. Built up in 1995, got extensive use on the roads of S FL for about 10 years. Geared too high for the N GA mountains, and has sat for the last 9 years or so while I rode my old Cannondale or a Trek mountain bike bought used. Anyway, just search eBay if you're at all interested or curious.
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I've never been fitted for a bike. Is that really necessary?

PaulS said:
Ask around for a good bike fitter in your area and get fitted, pay the fee and get fitted. Don't cheap out on this. I bike at least 100 miles a week, most weeks close to 200. Before I was fitted I constantly had injury issues. After the fitting, no issues other than occasional fatigue related stuff with 100+ mile rides that clear up in a day or two. Get fitted, you will be much happier.

Also, the price of lighter goes up exponentially, unless you are racing it isn't worth it. You want a bike that can stand up to the road you ride, tires that won't flat and rims that won't go out of true if you hit a pot hole. I like Shimano integra components, mavic kysirum elite rims and continental tires, clinchers 25 mm (easy to fix 50 miles from home).

There are lots of good bikes out there, but if it doesn't fit you properly, you won't be happy.
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azure said:
. . . . Ben is looking for a racing bike though, so other choices may be more suitable for him.
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I mean, that's what I'm thinking would be best. I'm trying to transition from running for exercise to biking for exercise. I realize I could just ride a stationary bike at the gym, but ugh. So some of this is, obviously, for fun.

There are few couples who bike regularly and I'd like to go with them. They have racing bikes, so I'd feel bad if I got a road bike and forced them to pull back and wait for me.
 
spiderweb said:
I've never been fitted for a bike. Is that really necessary?
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Yes!
Absolutely!
Imperative!
Must do!

.....umm, let me think for a minute here....

I'd rather ride a properly-fitted mediocre bike than an ill-fitting top-of-the-line carbon frame.
A good bike shop will include fitting as part of the purchase price. No extra cost to you.

Both my road bike and mountain bike were fitted upon purchase (two different shops), and neither has needed any adjustments since.
 
spiderweb said:
I mean, that's what I'm thinking would be best. I'm trying to transition from running for exercise to biking for exercise. I realize I could just ride a stationary bike at the gym, but ugh. So some of this is, obviously, for fun.
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If you're going to do this for the exercise, then you really do want to get fitted. Nothing will make you give up your exercise regimen more quickly than a bike that makes it a painful ordeal, or worse.
There are few couples who bike regularly and I'd like to go with them. They have racing bikes, so I'd feel bad if I got a road bike and forced them to pull back and wait for me.
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Caveat: if they ride competitively, don't expect to be able to keep up with them just because you have the same class of bike. I am the strongest cyclist by far in the group of casual cyclists I sometimes ride with, but I know someone I wouldn't even try to ride with because I know I'd hold her back. And I've been riding for years and years! If you're just starting to ride seriously, it will take you some time to hit your stride.
 
Non Compos Mentis said:
A good bike shop will include fitting as part of the purchase price. No extra cost to you.
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Yup, an important point that I didn't even think of. Ben, if you're thinking it costs extra to get fitted, it shouldn't. If your shop quotes extra for fitting you, go somewhere else.
 
OK, you've convinced me!

Non Compos Mentis said:
Yes!
Absolutely!
Imperative!
Must do!

.....umm, let me think for a minute here....

I'd rather ride a properly-fitted mediocre bike than an ill-fitting top-of-the-line carbon frame.
A good bike shop will include fitting as part of the purchase price. No extra cost to you.

Both my road bike and mountain bike were fitted upon purchase (two different shops), and neither has needed any adjustments since.
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azure said:
Caveat: if they ride competitively, don't expect to be able to keep up with them just because you have the same class of bike. I am the strongest cyclist by far in the group of casual cyclists I sometimes ride with, but I know someone I wouldn't even try to ride with because I know I'd hold her back. And I've been riding for years and years! If you're just starting to ride seriously, it will take you some time to hit your stride.
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This..... if everything else is equal it ain't the bike it's the motor....
 
azure said:
If you're going to do this for the exercise, then you really do want to get fitted. Nothing will make you give up your exercise regimen more quickly than a bike that makes it a painful ordeal, or worse.

Caveat: if they ride competitively, don't expect to be able to keep up with them just because you have the same class of bike. I am the strongest cyclist by far in the group of casual cyclists I sometimes ride with, but I know someone I wouldn't even try to ride with because I know I'd hold her back. And I've been riding for years and years! If you're just starting to ride seriously, it will take you some time to hit your stride.
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I believe that. They do ride consistently. The only reason I think I won't hold them back too much is because of my running 5 hours a week. I know, though, that only a little of that will translate into the biking.
 
azure said:
Yup, an important point that I didn't even think of. Ben, if you're thinking it costs extra to get fitted, it shouldn't. If your shop quotes extra for fitting you, go somewhere else.
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Thanks for the advice.
 
FastEddieB said:
Cannondale makes a fine product and has a well designed website for browsing their catalog.

I may be in the market for one of their Synapse models soon, replacing a Cannondale I built up in the early 80's which is still roadworthy.
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I was looking at maybe getting a Snyapse, did you end up getting it how is it?
 
spiderweb said:
I believe that. They do ride consistently. The only reason I think I won't hold them back too much is because of my running 5 hours a week. I know, though, that only a little of that will translate into the biking.
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Have you thought of a hybrid type bike? Mostly roadie frame (most are based on an endurance road frame) but with upright flat bars and a more comfortable saddle. Most of the roadie speed, but with a lot more comfort.

I am moving in a few months, and will be bike commuting, and will probably buy a hybrid that has fender mounts.

Example: Specialized Sirrus series http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/fitness/sirrus
 
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Bill Jennings said:
Have you thought of a hybrid type bike? Mostly roadie frame (most are based on an endurance road frame) but with upright flat bars and a more comfortable saddle. Most of the roadie speed, but with a lot more comfort.

I am moving in a few months, and will be bike commuting, and will probably by a hybrid that has fender mounts.

Example: Specialized Sirrus series http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/fitness/sirrus
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A hybrid's fine for short distances, but if you're going for more than about an hour, I'd recommend something with drop bars. You're more or less locked into one position with flat bars, unless you get some bar ends, and even if you do, there are more available positions with drop bars.

The endurance style frames (Specialized Roubaix, Giant Defy, Felt Z series, Trek Domane, etc) are a little more upright than the traditional drop bar bikes and are more comfortable than the traditional drop bar frames.
 
spiderweb said:
I've never been fitted for a bike. Is that really necessary?
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Unless you really know what you're doing, then yes. And by the way, there is no "set" way dialing in the adjustments exactly, it's largely the judgement of the fitter so it might vary slightly from shop to shop, and it will vary for your riding style. For example, if you're an aggressive rider, you will probably want a seat-forward right over the crank position, vs. a more comfortable rearward position. So you might start out with more comfortable setting (higher bars, rearward seat, correct knee bend) then adjust from there as you get more in shape.

Also, getting "fitted" for the bike includes getting the correct frame size in the first place. If the frame size is way off, no amount of fitting is going to make it work quite right. If you buy a used bike off Ebay or Craigslist, at least go to the LBS to have them evaluate what frame size you need for a given manufacturer. Then take it in to them for a proper setup.

azure said:
If you're going to do this for the exercise, then you really do want to get fitted. Nothing will make you give up your exercise regimen more quickly than a bike that makes it a painful ordeal, or worse.

Caveat: if they ride competitively, don't expect to be able to keep up with them just because you have the same class of bike. I am the strongest cyclist by far in the group of casual cyclists I sometimes ride with, but I know someone I wouldn't even try to ride with because I know I'd hold her back. And I've been riding for years and years! If you're just starting to ride seriously, it will take you some time to hit your stride.
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Yeah, I always laugh when I see a 300 lb dude carrying lots of ballast riding a top end Colnago or a Pinarello, and there are a few out there. But, that notwithstanding, most of the guys with better bikes are simply more experienced and more conditioned riders to begin with.
 
Thanks for all the info, everyone!
 
Update: my Zipp sold on eBay for $1,785!

Fellow lived close enough that he drove over Friday and saved on shipping.

Have arranged to pick up that 2013 Cannondale on Thursday if all goes well - will report on it once I have a chance to put a few miles on it.
 
BTW, here's the Cannondale I built up from a frameset in the early 1980's:

14456179908_416495e251.jpg


This photo was taken last week. The bike is still fully roadable after about 30 years. A few components (saddle, rear derailleur, shifters and pedals) have been upgraded over the years, but many of the components are the originals.

Someone warned that aluminum bikes are life limited, but so far so good on this one. Buy quality and there's no real reason one can't ride the same bike for decades - probably more cost efficient than trading up every few years.
 
As an update...

...I found that article from 1984:

14496893578_1a8d9bc71d_z.jpg


30 years ago!

The last little bit does not make sense, since I was kind of routinely turning in back-to-back 100 mile days.

Anyway, that's the same bike from my last post that I still ride.

And I picked up my new Cannondale Synapse yesterday:

14496893469_b26a18634c_z.jpg


If history is any guide, I should be riding this until 2044 - when I'll be 94!

Wish me luck!
 
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