astrotech LC-2 clock

D

drmax

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drmax
Seems I may have some problems with this. Could be battery needs changing, but here is a picture, in timer mode, counting up. Should be just 21:37. This is the way it has worked, since I bought plane. It's as old as 2006. The buttons are hard to make changes, too. I'm considering yanking it out and putting in something different. What do you think about the photo? Or is this correct?
Thx, DM
 

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My first thought was, is this displaying Time #2 and the time is 1:37?
 
I've looked and looked. I don't think there is a repair center for these. Although, still see them new for sale????
 
I got one from ebay for 70 bucks. I'd replace it with a davatron, they have good service
 
Take it apart and clean the contacts under the buttons with a very fine scotchbrite pad or similar. The contacts oxidize and then make poor contact. Easy to do and will work like new.
 
Thx for the info. When I get it out, while modding panel will clean it and bench check it. If works, is going to eBay. Decided a davtron m800 with audio alarm wired into intercom a better fit. Price is right, anyway.
 
The LC-2 at least doesn't have the inane behavior of it's brother the LC-6. When the battery starts to die in the LC-6 (which there is no warning) the thing starts RUNNING SLOW. I learned this while doing timed turns on my instrument training and the instructor kept telling me I was rolling out late. When I switched to using my watch everything was fine.
 
Are you talking about the dot in the display? I thought that was just to tell you what mode the unit was currently in, so if you press the "MODE" button, the dot will switch over to the clock functionality and consequently the dot will switch over to the right side of the display (over the word clock). Although it's possible that I'm missing something and I have no idea what I'm talking about.
 
Vaflier said:
Take it apart and clean the contacts under the buttons with a very fine scotchbrite pad or similar. The contacts oxidize and then make poor contact. Easy to do and will work like new.
Click to expand...

Dirty switches and potentiometers (volume knobs) are a very common problem in older electronic instruments. Besides using abrasives, repair technicians will typically use a spray cleaner, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-De...-2212314?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Y7CZJ2B0ATKG3Q82DJA
 
Last edited:
NoHeat said:
Dirty switches and potentiometers (volume knobs) are a very common problem in older electronic instruments. Besides using abrasives, repair technicians will typically use a spray cleaner, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_3/189-0664740-2212314?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Y7CZJ2B0ATKG3Q82DJA
Click to expand...

That stuff works great!! I used it on the sound board in our EAA hangar. I have three wireless mics and had to keep the input sliders up quite high to hear them. I sprayed the DeOxit into the connectors and now do not have to move the sliders up past 1/3 of the travel to get great volume from those mics.
 
Check the battery and battery contacts. I recall mine doing something like that many years ago. I wound up replacing it with a CO Guardian 553 carbon monoxide detector, which has all of the timer functions, a DA computer, OAT gauge, plus the CO detector, of course.

Steve
 
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