luvflyin
Touchdown! Greaser!
Clothes Dryer. 240 volt, 4800 watts. What size Breakers do I need? Gauge wire?
Not true. You can't load a breaker over 80% for continuous loads. A dryer is not.You can't load a breaker/circuit above 80% of capacity.
I had remembered that formula. It was the double breaker thing that was confusing me. I was thinking that two 30’s add up to 60. I know how 240 volt circuits work. Two 120’s out of phase with each other. But now I get it. What I have is the dryer is going to a double 40 now. Old house, many remodels over the years. I’m thinking that circuit used to go to a Stove or something else. Looks like about 8 gauge aluminum wire. It’s pigtailed with wire nuts inside the panel to copper leads to the breaker. I’m thinking I better replace the wire and breakerAmps = watts / voltage
20amps=4800watts/240volts
As said above, 30 amp breaker and 10 gage wire is standard for a dryer. 20 amps would be the minimum but inrush current is going to be a little more and might trip a fast acting 20amp breaker.
House is in Portland, OR. Built 1910. Last remodel was around 1975. I’m going to sell it.Not true. You can't load a breaker over 80% for continuous loads. A dryer is not.
@Half Fast has it right. And Washington State has been on the 2020 NEC since November of 2020.
Does that have to be done to existing houses? Nothing new is happening here, no remodel. But it’s going up for sale.Concur with 30A breaker and 10AWG wire, but be advised that you likely need a GFCI breaker. The 2020 NEC requires GFCI protection for 220V dryer circuits in laundry rooms. Other 120V laundry room circuits require dual AFCI/GFCI protection.
Typically, not until a renovation or other material change would force the work to be made to the new code. But once in a while, a municipality could force owners to upgrade X. I got one of those gifts when my village forced homeowners to ensure no storm drainage went to the sewer systems even though it was common practice in the past.Does that have to be done to existing houses? Nothing new is happening here, no remodel. But it’s going up for sale.
That gutter drainage sewer thing happened in Portland many moons ago. Like the 90’s I thinkTypically, not until a renovation or other material change would force the work to be made to the new code. But once in a while, a municipality could force owners to upgrade X. I got one of those gifts when my village forced homeowners to ensure no storm drainage went to the sewer systems even though it was common practice in the past.
Does that have to be done to existing houses? Nothing new is happening here, no remodel. But it’s going up for sale.
Good point. Gonna replace it anyway, so I'll throw a few more buck$ at it.The cost to add in the GFCI is probably negliegable and avoids any possibility of a home inspector flagging during the sale process. Same wiring, just a different breaker (and slightly different connections in the panel).
The cost to add in the GFCI is probably negliegable and avoids any possibility of a home inspector flagging during the sale process. Same wiring, just a different breaker (and slightly different connections in the panel).
Have you priced the difference between a GFCI breaker and a standard breaker?
I don't think the price difference qualifies as negliegable.
No wonder everybody uses the outlets to protect circuits.
I don't think the price difference qualifies as negliegable.
And by "change", you mean "swap with the working one that's installed a few feet down but happens to be unused, thus saving yourself $20 and a trip to the big box store", right?Yep. They’re also easier to change when they fail.
The cost to add in the GFCI is probably negliegable and avoids any possibility of a home inspector flagging during the sale process. Same wiring, just a different breaker (and slightly different connections in the panel).