Aircraft Block Heaters

AggieMike88

AggieMike88

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The original "I don't know it all" of aviation.
Can some folks enlighten me on the various model names of the electric block heaters? And costs to obtain/install?

The club does have a forced air solution (a modified kerosene torpedo heater). But with winter here, I was wanting to learn about the "plug in" solutions.

I know of Tanis being a popular choice, are there others?
 
$30 Bucks, Menard's.


RV Heater.JPG


Just replaced the old heater after 12 winters of constant use. $15.
 
I have the Reiff oil pan heater, in a hangar (with electricity) with a cowl cover. Works great, 'specially on those 7 am Young Eagle days in the winter. If I know I'm flying the next day, I turn it on the night before. The complete set includes cylinder bands but in a hangar, I decided the oil pan heater was enough. Come morning, the top of the engine is nice and warm. I haven't noticed any problems with the oil draining away (Philips XC 20-50w). Labor for the install was 2 hours at most. In fact if you have an A&P that likes to watch you do all the work, it's fairly easy. Clean the bottom of the oil pan (sand off paint if needed), use either the glue they provide or JBWeld, let it cure for a day or two and it's done.

I sprung for a Switchbox a couple years ago, you can make your own using the same electronics and such for about $150-200 depending where you get the basic control board (PM me for details). This way I just call the box from home (I live 30 miles away and right now, it's snowing in Denver) to turn on the heater.

aHA! I just checked the Reiff website - they have a switch for $89 that uses the same technology (GSM-AUTO) as Switchbox. But only to Reiff customers. Main difference that I can see is only 1 plug, where Switchbox has 2 independently controlled plugs (one for the engine heater, one for the coffee).

http://www.reiffpreheat.com/GSM-SWITCH.htm
 
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murphey said:
I have the Reiff oil pan heater, in a hangar (with electricity) with a cowl cover. Works great, 'specially on those 7 am Young Eagle days in the winter. If I know I'm flying the next day, I turn it on the night before. The complete set includes cylinder bands but in a hangar, I decided the oil pan heater was enough. Come morning, the top of the engine is nice and warm. I haven't noticed any problems with the oil draining away (Philips XC 20-50w). Labor for the install was 2 hours at most. In fact if you have an A&P that likes to watch you do all the work, it's fairly easy. Clean the bottom of the oil pan (sand off paint if needed), use either the glue they provide or JBWeld, let it cure for a day or two and it's done.

I sprung for a Switchbox a couple years ago, you can make your own using the same electronics and such for about $150-200 depending where you get the basic control board (PM me for details). This way I just call the box from home (I live 30 miles away and right now, it's snowing in Denver) to turn on the heater.
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I like my hotstrip too. The blanket and cowl plugs really help. For new and prior customers, Reiff will sell you a cell phone activated switch for <$100.
 
There are two main installed preheat systems, Tanis and Reiff. Ted has a pretty good description of how the two work in his thread on 'how to make your engine last' in the Maintenance sub forum.

Ted had both and I went with the Tanis system for my Baron based on Ted's description. I've been happy with Tanis so far.
 
If you just want a sump heat pad, about $15 from your local farm supply store. They come in all shapes and wattages. Be sure you get one with a built-in thermostat so you don't coke your oil.
 
Geico266 said:
$30 Bucks, Menard's.


RV Heater.JPG


Just replaced the old heater after 12 winters of constant use. $15.
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you just leave it connected to one of the ports on the bottom of the cowling and leave it on day and night?
 
I've got a Tannis, I've got two silicone pads plus small heating elements that mount to each cylinder. Does a nice job. I used to have a 7 day timer and a thermostat that turned it on when the temp was below 45. I now have a GSM AUTO (cell phone based relay, similar to the thing PhillipNY sells here) that turns it on.
 
I just made up a variation on Geico's theme using a 2500w ceramic heater, a 6" to 4" duct reducer and a length of dryer exhaust hose. Funneled the business end of the hose into the engine compartment through the cowl flap, covered the cowl with a moving blanket.

With an oil temp of 20f via the JPI, and an ambient of about 30f, the rig warmed the oil to 80f , cht around 100 and had the prop warm to the touch in less than an hour. Overnight with temps in the high teens, in the morning oil was 110f and cht's were 140.

Good enough for me. Found a kit for a DIY cellphone controlled switch for $20.
 
My instructor recommended EZ-Heat to me. He has 14 aircraft and uses it on all of them.

I got one and just added it a few weeks back. 140 bucks, and the plane starts like it is 80 degrees outside. A breeze to install.

I keep it plugged in and on a timer We are in a T hanger so the plane is out in the cold.
 
SixPapaCharlie said:
My instructor recommended EZ-Heat to me. He has 14 aircraft and uses it on all of them.

I got one and just added it a few weeks back. 140 bucks, and the plane starts like it is 80 degrees outside. A breeze to install.

I keep it plugged in and on a timer We are in a T hanger so the plane is out in the cold.
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Can you provide a link for this?

Ron and Chip; thanks for that info and detail.... I'll investigate those, too.
 
Mike,

You're in DALLAS!

What you need is a far cry from what I need in MO or what Ted needs in PA...or worse, what Ed needs in MI.

I'd think that a heat pad on your pan would be adequate. I could easily see a "real" engine preheat system (reiff or tanis) costing far more than than it's worth in your climate. I truly doubt that the few cold starts a year in Dallas, with only the engine oil being warmed, will make much difference in your engine life.

Heck, in your case, a light bulb, a blanket, and a cell phone switch may be your best solution.
 
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I just installed a Rieff system on my Arrow. I did it at annual and included the plate heaters on both the pan and the oil cooler, along with the four cylinder bands. I think it cost me about $540. Since I didn't have to remove any parts or bolts it was an easy install under the watchful eye of my A&P. I keep an old sleeping bag at the hangar to cover the cowling and stuff into the intake holes. It keeps the engine pretty toasty. I generally keep it plugged in below 50*, but that $89 switch is tempting.
 
:grin: Tim, you're probably right...

I'm just trying to determine something more convenient and pilot friendly (and a bit safer) than the modded kerosene torpedo we have.
 
Are there any drawbacks to keeping a tanis/rieff heater plugged in for an extended period of below 32f? Like three or four weeks of continual heating when you are hoping to fly anytime, but may not be able to?
 
Have used both reiff and tannis heaters,worked great.nothing works as well as bringing the plane to Fla for the winter.
 
ksarrowpilot said:
Are there any drawbacks to keeping a tanis/rieff heater plugged in for an extended period of below 32f? Like three or four weeks of continual heating when you are hoping to fly anytime, but may not be able to?
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:popcorn:
 
ksarrowpilot said:
Are there any drawbacks to keeping a tanis/rieff heater plugged in for an extended period of below 32f? Like three or four weeks of continual heating when you are hoping to fly anytime, but may not be able to?
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Read Ted's post (it's a sticky at the top of the Maintenance Forum. It is probably not a real problem to plug it in and leave it, but what you don't want is to have it on a timer or something that has it constantly going on and off. That will damage your engine.

Fir the record, Tanis says you can leave it running continuously for at least a week with no problems.
 
Law in the aero club I used to be in was plug the airplane below 50. They have been doing this for 10 years or more
 
Mike, I have a Tanis but had to remove the cylinder heater parts when I installed my JPI EDM-700. Only thing left of the Tanis is the oil pan heater.

Ambient was in the 20's Thursday evening when I plugged the Tanis in, and still in the low 20's the next morning at 8AM. My oil temperature was 63 degrees. This is in a (non heated) hangar with no blanket over the cowl. I wish it would work better, but 63 degrees is better than 20, and fine for starting purposes.
 
kenjr said:
you just leave it connected to one of the ports on the bottom of the cowling and leave it on day and night?
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Correct, or you can add a timer, cell phone turn on, whatever.

The only down side is it doesn't travel well.
 
For those with the Reiff or Tanis heaters, where are you locating the plug?
 
AggieMike88 said:
For those with the Reiff or Tanis heaters, where are you locating the plug?
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In mine, it's on the engine mount just inside the cowl door. In my hangar I open the cowling and leave the cord hanging out. If I'm outside I can snake it in through the cowl flap.
 
ksarrowpilot said:
Are there any drawbacks to keeping a tanis/rieff heater plugged in for an extended period of below 32f? Like three or four weeks of continual heating when you are hoping to fly anytime, but may not be able to?
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Now you are wading into the world of religious convictions and closely held personal beliefs :rofl:

Couple of competing theories:

Theories against:
- There is some concern that you set up a mechanism where water vapor rises from the oil pan, condenses on cold parts like the crank/cam, drips back into the oil from there therefore promoting corrosion.
- Oxydation/corrosion is promoted to some extent by heat. More heat, more corrosion.

Theories pro:
- The heat and air circulation created by the heating induced temperature differences will eventually dry out the engine.

In reality, nobody knows what is better, there has simply not been a controlled study of this. Either way, if you leave it plugged in, you are going to waste some electricity, and if everyone in a hangar row of 20 Ts has their block-heater going, you will have a 15kW load day in day out. Some hangar operators will restrict you from permanently using a heater. The best solution is a remote switch, e.g. the GSM or pager operated ones. The other option is a good relationship with the FBO and have someone plug it in the night before you need it.
 
kyleb said:
I've got mine zip tied to the oil filler tube. It is easily accessible through the oil filler door.
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Is any heat shielding or protection for the cord required?
 
AggieMike88 said:
Is any heat shielding or protection for the cord required?
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Doesn't seem to be. I think it has a high temp insulation thought he plug looks kind of off-the-shelf. I'd be careful with whatever extension cord you are using to not drape it across the exhaust or other hot areas immediately after shutdown, but it's not a problem on mine.
 
kyleb said:
I've got mine zip tied to the oil filler tube. It is easily accessible through the oil filler door.
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A word of caution to everyone, I don't recommend tying anything to oil filler tubes. I know many Lycoming are made of plastic and tying anything to old plastic anything sounds like a bad idea.
 
I have never seen a PA28 with the plug fastened anywhere else but the filler tube. There is no place else to access it but the oil door and not enough room to reach inside the oil door opening.

Thought about this when tightening the cylinder bands on the Arrow today.
 
AggieMike88 said:
Is any heat shielding or protection for the cord required?
Click to expand...

Doesn't seem to be an issue. The oil filler tube on a 4 cylinder Lycoming is in a relatively cool part of the engine bay and there is no need for the cord to pass close to the exhaust system. Mine has worked just fine for 8 (?) years with no evident distress.
 
tmyers said:
I have never seen a PA28 with the plug fastened anywhere else but the filler tube. There is no place else to access it but the oil door and not enough room to reach inside the oil door opening.

Thought about this when tightening the cylinder bands on the Arrow today.
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The plug in my cherokee is zip tied to the engine mount not the oil filler tube but close to it. Easy to grab, just inside the oil door and connect the extension cord.
 
murphey said:
The plug in my cherokee is zip tied to the engine mount not the oil filler tube but close to it. Easy to grab, just inside the oil door and connect the extension cord.
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never ever zip tie anything to the engine mount. Use a rubber-coated P-clip if you feel compelled to use the mount.
 
I have the Tanis, very satisfied with it. Plug is on top of the engine.
 
JHW said:
never ever zip tie anything to the engine mount. Use a rubber-coated P-clip if you feel compelled to use the mount.
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Curious, why not? And I didn't do the install, the shop did.
 
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