Engineer Ted's Hot Start Procedures for Injected Lycomings and Continentals

Ted

The pilot formerly known as Twin Engine Ted
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Oct 9, 2007
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As long as there have been fuel injected aircraft engines, there have been arguments on the best way to hot start the things, and the primary consensus is that hot starting them is annoying, and for many, relatively inconsistent. You've probably heard dozens of techniques for hot starts, you may have tried them, and you may have found that some of them work, but not very well. Maybe you've found one that works on your plane, but not on others. Certain aircraft engines have minor differences in their designs that can impact how well or poorly a particular technique works.

The hot start techniques I use have been proven over thousands of hours, across multiple aircraft for each manufacturer. Top induction, top exhaust, bottom induction and exhaust, turbocharged, naturally aspirated, it really doesn't matter. A number of PoA members (and others) have also attempted to hot start a plane with me in it, and after their technique doesn't work, I ask to use mine, which works >99% of the time. I say >99% and not 100% because none of these work 100% of the time, sometimes you get just the right combination of circumstances that the engine doesn't want to start and you have to try something out.

I should start out by mentioning a some things:

1) A lot of times, starting troubles are as much (or more) a weak ignition rather than starting technique. Are your plugs old? Are they Tempest plugs? (if they aren't, buy Tempest) Condition of your ignition harnesses? Magnetos? A good ignition system will help starting, and everything else. Electronic magnetos should provide a better start during cranking and improve hot starts (and cold starts).

2) If your engine is cranking slowly, this will also make hot starts hard, and on Continentals can end up damaging/breaking your starter adapter. Make sure your batteries and battery cables are in good condition. If they are original, replace them. If they're aluminum, replace them with copper.

3) Lycomings and Continentals have different starting techniques, because their fuel injection systems are completely different in design. A hot start technique, in order to work, needs to properly accommodate the fuel injection system that it's working for. I'm not going to go into the design of each fuel injection system.

4) These apply to mechanically fuel injected engines. Not carburetors, not pressure carburetors (such as used on the original 310s), not FADEC or electronic engine control engines - mechanical injected engines. So for example, an IO-540-C4B5, TIO-540-J2BD, TSIO-520-NB, IO-520-E, etc.

Now, my starting techniques.

Lycoming hot start technique:

1) Throttle and prop full, mixture at idle cut-off
2) Turn on fuel pump
3) Push the mixture to full rich for ~8 seconds
4) Pull the mixture back to idle cut-off
5) LEAVE THE FUEL PUMP ON
6) At this point, you should have the fuel pump on, throttle and prop full forward, mixture at idle cut-off
7) Start cranking the engine. When it catches, push the mixture forward (not slowly, but not quickly) and pull the throttle back relatively quickly. With practice, you'll get the timing right.

On my Aztec, I was able to get this such that a hot start would settle right into a 600-900 RPM idle most of the time

Continental hot start technique:

1) Throttle, prop, and mixture all full forward
2) Fuel pump on prime (high pressure/flow) for about 4 seconds (similar to a prime for a cold start)
3) Fuel pump off
4) Start cranking the engine. While cranking, pull the throttle back slowly (slow enough that it's about 5 seconds from full forward to idle). When it catches, you may have to accelerate how quickly you pull the throttle back to prevent it from revving too high. Normally, it catches by 1/4 throttle.

Alternate Continental hot start technique (which I've only had to use a few times - use technique 1 first):

1) Throttle, prop, and mixture all full forward
2) Fuel pump on prime (high pressure/flow) for about 8 seconds (similar to the Lycoming hot start)
3) Fuel pump off
4) Mixture to idle cut-off
5) At this point, you should have fuel pump off, mixture at idle cut-off, throttle and prop full forward
6) Start cranking the engine. When it catches, push the mixture forward and then throttle back, similar to a Lycoming hot start

The primary Lycoming and Continental starts should work for virtually all engines, virtually all of the time.

As I tell everyone who I tell these techniques to: if you have a technique that works for you and you're happy with for your plane/engine combination, keep using it. My techniques are not the only ones that work and they may not be the best on your engines. But, in my experience they do work well and consistently. I put in guidelines for timing, but you'll get the feel of it after a while. As I implied above on some of the things to check if you have hot start issues (or many other issues), general engine/airplane condition are important. No amount of good technique will overcome a starter cable that's broken.
 
Lycoming hot start technique:

1) Throttle and prop full, mixture at idle cut-off
2) Turn on fuel pump
3) Push the mixture to full rich for ~8 seconds
4) Pull the mixture back to idle cut-off
5) LEAVE THE FUEL PUMP ON
6) At this point, you should have the fuel pump on, throttle and prop full forward, mixture at idle cut-off
7) Start cranking the engine. When it catches, push the mixture forward (not slowly, but not quickly) and pull the throttle back relatively quickly. With practice, you'll get the timing right.
Thanks, Ted.
Gracefully doing step #7 is not easy (at least for me). Three tasks with two hands: LH turning key to start, RH trying to advance mixture and reduce throttle.
I've seen people do it well (my CFI for one), but they have a better feel for when the engine "catches" and they can move their LH off the key and over to the throttle and move the levers more easily in a synchronized fashion.
With almost 700h in mine - I still haven't mastered that lol. I still look pretty clumsy using that method with the engine running at high RPMs longer than I'd like.
 
IMHO....most of these starting issues is a weak ignition system.

Once I rebuilt my ignition system in the TSIO-520D....it starts easily hot with no weird tricks. I replaced plugs with Tempest fine wires, replaced the leads, and rebuilt the mags with new points.
 
Your Lycoming technique is for a flooded engine, why not just try the don’t touch anything approach which works the great majority of time?
Well, steps 1-3 flood the engine, so then you HAVE to use the flooded start procedure. I suspect you & I are doing the same thing...

The Lycoming/Bendix system doesn't have a return line, so you can't flush the vapor out of the system except into the cylinders, which is what Ted's procedure does. In my (admittedly MUCH more limited) experience, it's harder to start a flooded engine. Then when you do, you usually wind up with it revving way up, which is really hard on a cold engine, and is exacerbated by a bunch of extra fuel having washed down the cylinder walls.

My suggestion for hot starting a NA Lycoming io-360/540 is:
1) throttle just cracked like a normal start, prop full, mixture ico
2) boost pump on
3) crank. The engine will start after 5-10s of cranking and you jam the mixture forward quickly to keep it running
3A) if the engine didn't start, it's not that hot and it needs a little bit of a prime, about half a much as a cold start

BTW, that's the procedure from my poh, which is a good resource for operating an airplane, as it turns out.
 
Your Lycoming technique is for a flooded engine, why not just try the don’t touch anything approach which works the great majority of time?

As I said, do what works for you. I didn't find that the "don't touch anything" approach worked regularly or consistently.

The purpose behind this is that many pilots struggle with complicated techniques that work some percentage of the time that is well under 90%. These techniques have worked for me >99% of the time across a multitude of engines.

Thanks, Ted.
Gracefully doing step #7 is not easy (at least for me). Three tasks with two hands: LH turning key to start, RH trying to advance mixture and reduce throttle.
I've seen people do it well (my CFI for one), but they have a better feel for when the engine "catches" and they can move their LH off the key and over to the throttle and move the levers more easily in a synchronized fashion.
With almost 700h in mine - I still haven't mastered that lol. I still look pretty clumsy using that method with the engine running at high RPMs longer than I'd like.

And, again, do what works for you. You're correct, the approach requires something of a 3-handed technique. The goal is definitely not to be at a high RPM.
 
Your alternate for Continental is a Flooded Start. It works, but if you over prime, you can have fuel dripping out of the engine and a fire hazard.

I used to use this method all the time, but have reconsidered due to the fire risk.
 
Ted,

Curious, ignition harness - one thing that's always bugged me is zip tying all leads together in a bundle - is this really ok on a aircraft? Are the mags that low of energy, or are the cables that great?
 
Ted,

Curious, ignition harness - one thing that's always bugged me is zip tying all leads together in a bundle - is this really ok on a aircraft? Are the mags that low of energy, or are the cables that great?

It's really only a problem if you have issues with the shielding, in which case you should replace them anyway. I'd rather see some wire holders that keep the wires separated, but it's not been an issue.
 
1) A lot of times, starting troubles are as much (or more) a weak ignition rather than starting technique. Are your plugs old? Are they Tempest plugs? (if they aren't, buy Tempest) Condition of your ignition harnesses? Magnetos? A good ignition system will help starting, and everything else. Electronic magnetos should provide a better start during cranking and improve hot starts (and cold starts).
emags made a night and day difference in my case. I wish I had known this before my mags finally needed overhaul/replacement and I learned it by accident.
 
Thanks, Ted.
Gracefully doing step #7 is not easy (at least for me). Three tasks with two hands: LH turning key to start, RH trying to advance mixture and reduce throttle.
I've seen people do it well (my CFI for one), but they have a better feel for when the engine "catches" and they can move their LH off the key and over to the throttle and move the levers more easily in a synchronized fashion.
With almost 700h in mine - I still haven't mastered that lol. I still look pretty clumsy using that method with the engine running at high RPMs longer than I'd like.
A recently gone west pilot friend of mine used to say..."I've got a third leg, but not a third hand"
 
Well, steps 1-3 flood the engine, so then you HAVE to use the flooded start procedure. I suspect you & I are doing the same thing...

The Lycoming/Bendix system doesn't have a return line, so you can't flush the vapor out of the system except into the cylinders, which is what Ted's procedure does. In my (admittedly MUCH more limited) experience, it's harder to start a flooded engine. Then when you do, you usually wind up with it revving way up, which is really hard on a cold engine, and is exacerbated by a bunch of extra fuel having washed down the cylinder walls.

My suggestion for hot starting a NA Lycoming io-360/540 is:
1) throttle just cracked like a normal start, prop full, mixture ico
2) boost pump on
3) crank. The engine will start after 5-10s of cranking and you jam the mixture forward quickly to keep it running
3A) if the engine didn't start, it's not that hot and it needs a little bit of a prime, about half a much as a cold start

BTW, that's the procedure from my poh, which is a good resource for operating an airplane, as it turns out.
 
As long as there have been fuel injected aircraft engines, there have been arguments on the best way to hot start the things, and the primary consensus is that hot starting them is annoying, and for many, relatively inconsistent. You've probably heard dozens of techniques for hot starts, you may have tried them, and you may have found that some of them work, but not very well. Maybe you've found one that works on your plane, but not on others. Certain aircraft engines have minor differences in their designs that can impact how well or poorly a particular technique works.

The hot start techniques I use have been proven over thousands of hours, across multiple aircraft for each manufacturer. Top induction, top exhaust, bottom induction and exhaust, turbocharged, naturally aspirated, it really doesn't matter. A number of PoA members (and others) have also attempted to hot start a plane with me in it, and after their technique doesn't work, I ask to use mine, which works >99% of the time. I say >99% and not 100% because none of these work 100% of the time, sometimes you get just the right combination of circumstances that the engine doesn't want to start and you have to try something out.

I should start out by mentioning a some things:

1) A lot of times, starting troubles are as much (or more) a weak ignition rather than starting technique. Are your plugs old? Are they Tempest plugs? (if they aren't, buy Tempest) Condition of your ignition harnesses? Magnetos? A good ignition system will help starting, and everything else. Electronic magnetos should provide a better start during cranking and improve hot starts (and cold starts).

2) If your engine is cranking slowly, this will also make hot starts hard, and on Continentals can end up damaging/breaking your starter adapter. Make sure your batteries and battery cables are in good condition. If they are original, replace them. If they're aluminum, replace them with copper.

3) Lycomings and Continentals have different starting techniques, because their fuel injection systems are completely different in design. A hot start technique, in order to work, needs to properly accommodate the fuel injection system that it's working for. I'm not going to go into the design of each fuel injection system.

4) These apply to mechanically fuel injected engines. Not carburetors, not pressure carburetors (such as used on the original 310s), not FADEC or electronic engine control engines - mechanical injected engines. So for example, an IO-540-C4B5, TIO-540-J2BD, TSIO-520-NB, IO-520-E, etc.

Now, my starting techniques.

Lycoming hot start technique:

1) Throttle and prop full, mixture at idle cut-off
2) Turn on fuel pump
3) Push the mixture to full rich for ~8 seconds
4) Pull the mixture back to idle cut-off
5) LEAVE THE FUEL PUMP ON
6) At this point, you should have the fuel pump on, throttle and prop full forward, mixture at idle cut-off
7) Start cranking the engine. When it catches, push the mixture forward (not slowly, but not quickly) and pull the throttle back relatively quickly. With practice, you'll get the timing right.

On my Aztec, I was able to get this such that a hot start would settle right into a 600-900 RPM idle most of the time

Continental hot start technique:

1) Throttle, prop, and mixture all full forward
2) Fuel pump on prime (high pressure/flow) for about 4 seconds (similar to a prime for a cold start)
3) Fuel pump off
4) Start cranking the engine. While cranking, pull the throttle back slowly (slow enough that it's about 5 seconds from full forward to idle). When it catches, you may have to accelerate how quickly you pull the throttle back to prevent it from revving too high. Normally, it catches by 1/4 throttle.

Alternate Continental hot start technique (which I've only had to use a few times - use technique 1 first):

1) Throttle, prop, and mixture all full forward
2) Fuel pump on prime (high pressure/flow) for about 8 seconds (similar to the Lycoming hot start)
3) Fuel pump off
4) Mixture to idle cut-off
5) At this point, you should have fuel pump off, mixture at idle cut-off, throttle and prop full forward
6) Start cranking the engine. When it catches, push the mixture forward and then throttle back, similar to a Lycoming hot start

The primary Lycoming and Continental starts should work for virtually all engines, virtually all of the time.

As I tell everyone who I tell these techniques to: if you have a technique that works for you and you're happy with for your plane/engine combination, keep using it. My techniques are not the only ones that work and they may not be the best on your engines. But, in my experience they do work well and consistently. I put in guidelines for timing, but you'll get the feel of it after a while. As I implied above on some of the things to check if you have hot start issues (or many other issues), general engine/airplane condition are important. No amount of good technique will overcome a starter cable that's broken.
Thanks for the detailed information. My lyco with Bendix injection hot starts best with mixture cut-off, 1/3 throttle.. when it starts toss in normal mixture
 
My suggestion for hot starting a NA Lycoming io-360/540 is:
1) throttle just cracked like a normal start, prop full, mixture ico
2) boost pump on
3) crank. The engine will start after 5-10s of cranking and you jam the mixture forward quickly to keep it running
3A) if the engine didn't start, it's not that hot and it needs a little bit of a prime, about half a much as a cold start

BTW, that's the procedure from my poh, which is a good resource for operating an airplane, as it turns ouout.
I use nearly the same procedure but I crack open the throttle about double for hot start than for cold. It usually starts right up but if it doesn’t start after a few seconds I goose the mixture once to give it a quick shot of fuel. It fires up every time.
 
I use nearly the same procedure but I crack open the throttle about double for hot start than for cold. It usually starts right up but if it doesn’t start after a few seconds I goose the mixture once to give it a quick shot of fuel. It fires up every time.

Define “goose”; full mixture, half mixture, boost pump?
 
When shutting down, I put it at 1,000 rpm and remove the fuel from the equation. When starting, I reintroduce the fuel.

I don’t know why everyone gets in and moves the throttle all over the place when they just had it at 1,000 during The shutdown.

Flooding it and then doing a flooded start seems to be SOP in a few particular tail numbers, if they’ve been sitting a bit and heat soaked..
 
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