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Between the cases?
The thread is not the gasket, it acts as a spacer to prevent the form-in-place gasket material from being totally squeezed out when the parts are bolted together.
The thread is not the gasket, it acts as a spacer to prevent the form-in-place gasket material from being totally squeezed out when the parts are bolted together.
Got a reference for that ?
Yeah, I was taught that it was the other way around,
Silk is used because it works! It's not the only way however.
I was told that it was because the guy who was rebuilding the engine had spent his last dime on parts and was down to his skivvies. A string from the waistband was the only thing that would work.
Whoda' thunk A&Ps wore fancy silk skivvies? Learn something new every day...
Between the cases?
Because the FAA has unintentionally succeeded in freezing engine technology in the year 1946.
Because the FAA has unintentionally succeeded in freezing engine technology in the year 1946.
Seriously, please, name me a better choice; I can't think of one really.
Got a reference for that ?
Name me one automotive engine that still uses silk as a gasket.
If it's so great, why isn't BMW (for example) still using it?
Because the FAA has unintentionally succeeded in freezing engine technology in the year 1946.
Name me one automotive engine that still uses silk as a gasket.
If it's so great, why isn't BMW (for example) still using it?
I believe we have a winner.
So why do we have other ways to do it?
As I said, other methods allow for lower quality production standards with a commonly acceptable result.
My point simply was that if the FAA was the reason that there would not be any other approved methods
More correctly it would be that nobody had applied to the administrator proposing a suitable alternative, ever wonder why?
The answer to why is that it cures a non existent problem.
Your reference doesn't support your statement.From an Internet search to back up my memory:
The latest revision of Textron Lycoming Service Instruction No. 1125 specifies POB No. 4 Perfect Seal and silk thread as the generally used items for sealing crankcase finished parting surfaces that do not employ gaskets. Two other products, RTV-102 or LOCTITE-515 applied as a very thin film without silk thread, may be used as alternate materials for sealing crankcase parting surfaces. Other sealants have not been tested and approved for this purpose, and NONE are approved for other uses in the assembly of Lycoming engines. Improper use of these and other sealing compounds can create serious problems. As an example, a red colored sealant was used by a mechanic to hold the pressure screen gasket in place. As the material solidified, pieces broke loose and eventually blocked the engine's small oil passages causing oil starvation and engine failure. The bottom line: only use those sealant materials approved by the Lycoming Overhaul manual and other service publications, and only use them for approved purposes.
further searches, it explains that the sealant is to hold the thread in place, and that the thread is the gasket. So much for my memory
thread is not the gasket, it acts as a spacer to prevent the form-in-place gasket material from being totally squeezed out when the parts are bolted together.
__________________
Dennis Glaeser CFI, CFII
OBTW, any manufacturer can up date their manuals with out FAA approval. They could change the seal any time they wanted.Because the FAA has unintentionally succeeded in freezing engine technology in the year 1946.
Frozen in 1946? Even earlier than that when it comes to wheel bearing seals. I've bought a couple of sets of new Cleveland wheels and brakes for 172s and they're still using a felt seal. Automobile makers quit that sometime around 1920 and started using leather. That ran until 1950 or so. Leather was replaced by synthetic elastomers.
Felt has to be cleaned and greased or it will let water in. Even then one must be careful not to squirt water directly at the seal. And it does a rather poor job of keeping dirt out, anyway. It won't maintain tension on the seal shoulder of the axle.
Dan
THe outer case flange is not a portion of the bearing clamp. the bearing clamp is done at the bearing by torquing the thru case studs not the outer case seams.
Correct, it isn't part of the clamp. However it is machined so that the outer flanges pretty much line right up with the inner flanges. If there was much room for additional tightening there that could lead to some extra stresses in the case and more cracking. I can't imagine a rubber or cork gasket working particularly well there over time.
The for most engine case shop in America http://www.chuckneyent.com/neynozzle.asp has much to say about how the seal on the cases work. and does not allow any sealant to be applied at the bearing bosses.Correct, it isn't part of the clamp. However it is machined so that the outer flanges pretty much line right up with the inner flanges. If there was much room for additional tightening there that could lead to some extra stresses in the case and more cracking. I can't imagine a rubber or cork gasket working particularly well there over time.
You have it backwards, the felt absorbs the centrifugally spun off grease, the grease itself is what provides the seal. You clean and dry the felt of old grease in the parts washer tank. They are supposed to return clean and dry between the thin washers that act as the lip of the seal trapping the grease. If it is mine and I want to seal the felt and prep it for my plane, I clean it well, dry it with CRC Electramotive or similar chlorinated solvent then saturate it with a few good dosings of LPS3, maybe do the first still damp with the CRC. It ends up with an oxidized hard shell wax surface film that doesn't attract water or grime, the opposite in fact, and will have a very shallow border of mingling with the bearing grease. Before you repack your bearings with grease if you used a hydrocarbon type solvent to clean, you probably want to give the bearings and races a good spray with the CRC and then blast with air until very dry or you see King Ding Dong and he says "Bacaba". At that point you should stop and open the door and walk outside for air...
From Cleveland's maintenance manual http://www.parker.com/literature/Ai...B Product Catalog Static Files/AWBCMM0001.pdf
Quote:
"(c) If felt seals are used, lightly coat all surfaces of the felt with the wheel bearing grease (refer to paragraph 3.A. Bearing Grease). If rubber lip seals are used, lightly coat the rubber surfaces with bearing grease.
(d) Install the bearing cones, grease seals (felts and rings or rubber lip seals) and snap rings. Excess grease will squeeze out. Remove the excess grease with an inward rotating movement against the bearing cone ID. Disperse any small amounts of grease on the exterior surface of the grease seal and snap ring and remove any grease from the hub outside surface."
They want grease on the felts. Interesting to note that they also have rubber seals. Why don't they use them on all their wheels?
Dan
Look how some front wheels work, they aren't on a spindle preloaded with an adjustable nut, they are preloaded by shims clamped between the forks. The outsides of the mains as well use no dust cap. The double plate felt sandwich with the circlip ring provide a nice clean seal.
Correct, it isn't part of the clamp. However it is machined so that the outer flanges pretty much line right up with the inner flanges. If there was much room for additional tightening there that could lead to some extra stresses in the case and more cracking. I can't imagine a rubber or cork gasket working particularly well there over time.
The state of certificated aircraft technology is laughably antiquated.
The use of felt in wheels is beyond quaint. It's absurd.
I remember the first time I greased the wheel bearings on my first plane, during my very first "owner-assisted" annual. When I had the wheel dismantled I actually laughed out loud. My A&P just rolled his eyes and said "I know!".
The state of certificated aircraft technology is laughably antiquated.
Of course the "hot setup" would be to use a CNC, ball mill and machine a slot for a O ring...:wink2:
Of course the "hot setup" would be to use a CNC, ball mill and machine a slot for a O ring...:wink2:
And 4 dowel pin locations for alignment and to reduce fretting.