We'be heard of the old truck gun, what about plane gun?

Rebel Lord said:
Haha ya we've all been there. All it takes is hours reading on the internet :D
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I remember shooting a .22 waaaay back when I was in JROTC. Did pretty well actually. There's a gun range like 5 minutes from me, maybe I'll head over there one of these days..
 
Marlin 1895G or Remington Wingmaster are my carry on long guns if I'm flying backcountry in the west or Alaska. I don't leave guns unoccupied in my truck or plane for long periods of time though.
 
Caramon13 said:
I remember shooting a .22 waaaay back when I was in JROTC. Did pretty well actually. There's a gun range like 5 minutes from me, maybe I'll head over there one of these days..
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Go for it, usually they rent guns out.
 
GUNS?!? RIDICULOUS!!!! I"M APPALLED AT WHAT I'M READING HERE!

This is an aviation forum. When I clicked on this, I didn't expect to be so, well let down.

Not a single one of you has talked about how I can mount one under the wing with a trigger switch on my side stick and a crosshairs mirrored on the PFD. This thread is useless.

Rookies.
 
MetalCloud said:
GUNS?!? RIDICULOUS!!!! I"M APPALLED AT WHAT I'M READING HERE!

This is an aviation forum. When I clicked on this, I didn't expect to be so, well let down.

Not a single one of you has talked about how I can mount one under the wing with a trigger switch on my side stick and a crosshairs mirrored on the PFD. This thread is useless.

Rookies.
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That 30mm Avenger posted earlier is actually on the underside of a Mooney.
 
MetalCloud said:
GUNS?!? RIDICULOUS!!!! I"M APPALLED AT WHAT I'M READING HERE!

This is an aviation forum. When I clicked on this, I didn't expect to be so, well let down.

Not a single one of you has talked about how I can mount one under the wing with a trigger switch on my side stick and a crosshairs mirrored on the PFD. This thread is useless.

Rookies.
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I've actually wanted to build my own pylons and mount a homemade gun pod with a AK with a drum mag hooked up to a remote electric actuater at 600 rpm.

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JCranford said:
Not really. I have a suppressor on my 300WM and I can shoot it without hearing pro without subsonic. Love it!
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Good to know. We'll have to try that with some different .300 Blackout loads in my son's suppressed rifle.
 
Zeldman said:
You do know which end to point away from you, right..?? :lol::lol::lol:
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Something I picked up at Gander Mountain:

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And guess what it warns in the manual: YOU CAN PUT YOUR EYE OUT!
 
Caramon13 said:
Man it's like reading another language. All I know about guns is that they go boom. :)
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Come on out to the range, we'll get ya all learned up.

JCranford said:
Not really. I have a suppressor on my 300WM and I can shoot it without hearing pro without subsonic. Love it!
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Wow. That's impressive. I'm surprised you don't need at least some foam plugs in.

Ghery said:
Good to know. We'll have to try that with some different .300 Blackout loads in my son's suppressed rifle.
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I have a .300 Whisper here (actually marked Whisper the real deal, but Whisper/Blackout seems to be the same deal overall -- not sure my barrel would be happy with heavier Blackout loads though, just no good way to know, so the answer is... no... for safety reasons...) that I didn't build and keep thinking needs to be suppressed, since that was the original intent of the round when the guy designed it. I'm just too lazy / annoyed to do the NFA paperwork and have the barrel work done to mount it.

Suppressors being an NFA item is stupid. Even Europe seems to understand this. Too many morons watching Hollywood BS about what suppressors are for over here, and well cultivated gun phobias.
 
FastEddieB said:
Not with the right silencer.

Oops! I mean suppressor!
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Since I live in that western coastal state that doesn't like such things, I have no idea of what you're talking about! I thought someone just wanted a 16" or 24" extension to their oil filter. Seemed odd that the threaded end of the oil filter was on the muzzle end though...
 
Ghery said:
And subsonic loads. Otherwise they're still loud.
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They can be, but more importantly, without the muzzle crack, it's hard to locate the origin of the shooter by from the sonic boom. Like M21's. Unsilenced, you know right where they are. Silenced, you hear the sonic noise ricocheting off hills and buildings but pinpointing them is difficult.
 
FastEddieB said:
Not with the right silencer.

Oops! I mean suppressor!
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Or the right rounds, CCIs quiet-22 40gr at 790FPS are quieter than a pellet gun of ya got over 16" of barrel


Ofcourse that's fine for plinking, but if you're going over 40yrds or trying to take something out, that whole annoying weight and velocity thing kinda ruin all the fun.
 
James331 said:
AR15 feat .308, wouldn't that be a AR10?
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My thoughts exactly. Both are EBRs ("evil black rifles") but short of the trigger group and possibly the buffer tube, nothing else interchanges between the two. Hmmmm...

Now on the 2nd row, there's a magazine with a 300 Blackout that would work just fine on a AR15 lower...
 
IMG_0900.JPG Just went to a gunshow yesterday, almost the whole family. I was able to resist the suggestions of the 13 y/o Son. We ended up buying a magazine(not the kind you read) for the Bulgarian 'Makarov'.
 
rtk11 said:
My thoughts exactly. Both are EBRs ("evil black rifles") but short of the trigger group and possibly the buffer tube, nothing else interchanges between the two. Hmmmm...

Now on the 2nd row, there's a magazine with a 300 Blackout that would work just fine on a AR15 lower...
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Also a AR ain't going to shoot a flare, won't leave much left over if a squirrel, not the best for a charging large animal, and doesn't do AC well going from prolonged sitting or getting dunked and dirty, compared to a nickle and stainless pump 12G
 
James331 said:
Also a AR ain't going to shoot a flare, won't leave much left over if a squirrel, not the best for a charging large animal, and doesn't do AC well going from prolonged sitting or getting dunked and dirty, compared to a nickle and stainless pump 12G
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The older I get, the more I like stainless. Ha. So much less hassle when cleaning. My stuff is slowly becoming either Tupperware or Stainless. The blued stuff sits in the safe, oiled and working and hardly used, since it's just a PITA to get clean.

I did try out ultrasonic on some Tupperware parts recently. Cheap Harbor Freight ultrasonic and about a hour worth of rotating various parts I didn't mind dunking. Worked pretty good really. Was kinda surprised.

That will probably be my go-to for Tupperware and various innards after range sessions now if not doing deep cleaning and complete disassembly, and I started the experiment on the cheap guns that could easily have parts replaced for a song, in case the results weren't good.

But I'll keep cleaning the Stainless stuff the old fashioned way, probably. Just don't trust water plus innards. I use the compressor to blow all the rinse water off and then oil everything, and we live in an exceedingly dry climate, but there's certain rules in the back of my head and water plus gun will always feel like a no-no to me.
 
I have my share of blued, stainless, and tupperware. My favorite is still my stainless O-frame, but the Austrian and Croatian tupperware pieces are my go-to when something goes bump in the night.

I heard ultrasonic cleaners do a great job, but that requires a detail strip which I do every 3rd cleaning. For most cleaning, I like Hoppes #9 for cleaning, and I just made the transition to Corrosion X CLP. (I was really impressed with Corrosion X as an aircraft treatment.) BTW, Amazon has a fantastic deal on a 32 oz bottle of Hoppes #9 for $12.16.
 
rtk11 said:
I have my share of blued, stainless, and tupperware. My favorite is still my stainless O-frame, but the Austrian and Croatian tupperware pieces are my go-to when something goes bump in the night.

I heard ultrasonic cleaners do a great job, but that requires a detail strip which I do every 3rd cleaning. For most cleaning, I like Hoppes #9 for cleaning, and I just made the transition to Corrosion X CLP. (I was really impressed with Corrosion X as an aircraft treatment.) BTW, Amazon has a fantastic deal on a 32 oz bottle of Hoppes #9 for $12.16.
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Check this stuff out, especially for cold wx ops, even does wonders on weatherstripping
SH38475_530x.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/G96-1055P-Complete-Triple-Action-Treatment/dp/B0000DD5TL


rtk11 said:
but the Austrian and Croatian tupperware pieces are my go-to when something goes bump in the night.
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You talking pistols?

For home defense a shotgun is really the way to go, for both doing damage to the target and not doing damage your kid in the next room.
 
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rtk11 said:
I have my share of blued, stainless, and tupperware. My favorite is still my stainless O-frame, but the Austrian and Croatian tupperware pieces are my go-to when something goes bump in the night.

I heard ultrasonic cleaners do a great job, but that requires a detail strip which I do every 3rd cleaning. For most cleaning, I like Hoppes #9 for cleaning, and I just made the transition to Corrosion X CLP. (I was really impressed with Corrosion X as an aircraft treatment.) BTW, Amazon has a fantastic deal on a 32 oz bottle of Hoppes #9 for $12.16.
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Be a little bit careful with Hoppe's #9 on stainless. 99% of the time you will be okay but some grades of stainless contain copper, and Hoppe's attacks copper. Same thing with electroplate nickel with copper underneath. Electroless nickle is okay.
 
James331 said:
Check this stuff out...
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Thanks for the tip! I'll check it out. I will advise anyone to stay away from Froglube. In cold weather, it jammed my O-frame's action. Never seen anything like it... and don't want to to see it happen again.

I've got the ol' Mossy 12 GA handy, but a Glock 30s, Glock 23 or Springfield XDS chambered in .45 is usually on my hip at home and in the plane.
 
rtk11 said:
Thanks for the tip! I'll check it out. I will advise anyone to stay away from Froglube. In cold weather, it jammed my O-frame's action. Never seen anything like it... and don't want to to see it happen again.
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Agreed. That stuff is complete chit. I liked it for a while until I pulled a gun out of the safe that had been Froglubed and put away for a few months, and I found that crap had hardened all over the barrel into a crunchy white semi-translucent freaking mess.

If you have any of that crap, throw it away and use a real lubricant. Screw those guys for even making it. And no, when it dried out, no amount of heat or anything would revive it. Just had to scrub and scrub and scrub that BS off of everything it touched.

Thankfully I'd only done a few "range guns" with it.

Should be called ****edLube.
 
denverpilot said:
But I'll keep cleaning the Stainless stuff the old fashioned way, probably. Just don't trust water plus innards. I use the compressor to blow all the rinse water off and then oil everything, and we live in an exceedingly dry climate, but there's certain rules in the back of my head and water plus gun will always feel like a no-no to me.
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No kidding about the water. I remember being told in ROTC summer camp (a LONG time ago) to take our M-16s into the shower with us to clean them. That just seemed so wrong. Now, water does a great job on a black powder rifle, but an M-16?
 
Ghery said:
No kidding about the water. I remember being told in ROTC summer camp (a LONG time ago) to take our M-16s into the shower with us to clean them. That just seemed so wrong. Now, water does a great job on a black powder rifle, but an M-16?
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Spend time out in the field where they get rained on, submerged, and dragged through mud, hosing them down with soap and water is sometimes the only way to go. The most critical part is the gas tube. You don't want to leave either water or solvent in it.
 
I know you said you were looking for a rifle, but a 10mm Glock 20 is a good woods gun
 
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