Thinking About a Deck

[paflyer]

You forgot that we're building a runway.

Slacker!

 

[Ravioli]

If your lower deck extends 10' out from the 1st level the one off the Master would be fine at 5' out. Since really, it will only be aesthetic. How often will you have guests flowing through your bedroom to watch an eclipse? Depending on your furniture and the room size you'll probably want french doors instead of slider up there, since they look nicer.

rather than re-engineering the current deck, consider putting a continuous concrete slab that goes under it all the way past the walkout doors, about 15' out from the house and moving the tub under it so you'll have some cover from the rain and snow. The current tub position will be better for the patio furniture so you don't have to wear shoes walk in the grassy stuffs.

 

[SCCutler]

All this talk about permits...

...I assumed that Ted and Laurie and clan lived in the sticks. Certainly, if they were in a municipality, a runway would be a problem, right.

In Texas, if you're not in a city, you can just about build what you want.

 

[jesse]

All this talk about permits...

...I assumed that Ted and Laurie and clan lived in the sticks. Certainly, if they were in a municipality, a runway would be a problem, right.

In Texas, if you're not in a city, you can just about build what you want.

Sadly, Kansas isn’t Texas.

Based on my interpretation of the regulations applicable in his county, a permit would be required.

Engineer/architect stamp not required, hell their faq says you can build a house without one. Stamp required only in the following scenarios:

⎯ Walls that are subject to hydrostatic pressure from groundwater;
⎯ Retaining walls that will support fill with a depth of 4 feet or more;
⎯ Foundation walls exceeding 10 feet in height;
⎯ Foundations and anchoring systems for manufactured homes;
⎯ ICF foundations;
⎯ Footings and foundations that are placed on fill;
⎯ Foundations that are placed on slopes steeper than 4:1 before grading;
⎯ Foundations that are supported on dissimilar materials such as partially on soil and
partially on rock strata;
⎯ Foundation walls with an unbroken (straight) line exceeding 25 feet;
⎯ Concrete slabs that that are located over accessible space that have a clear span
greater than 4 feet in any direction;
⎯ Concrete slabs when any part of slab is placed on fill greater than 2 feet in depth;
⎯ Log structures;
⎯ Cold formed steel construction.

Following building codes are relevant there:

• 2006 edition of the International Building Code
• 2006 edition of the International Residential Code
• 2006 edition of the International Fire Code
• 2006 edition of the International Plumbing Code
• 2006 edition of the International Mechanical Code
• 2006 edition of the International Fuel Gas Code
• 2005 edition of the National Electrical Code

My interpretation is probably wrong.

 

[weilke]

My interpretation is probably wrong.

Your interpretation is probably right. They have a list of things you can't do for owner plans, but a single family dwelling on a level lot can often be built without a single stamp.

And that's not a Kansas thing. I had an entire office in MD built based on a plan that the contractor drew freehand with a pencil on a yellow pad. County stamped it and everything was a-ok.

 

[FORANE]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/CAMO-Marksman-Pro-Tool-345001/203040672

Check out the camo tool for automatic deck board spacing and hiding fasteners.
Used one on ours. Very nice with composite decking.

 

[coloradobluesky]

Paint your joists before you deck over them

 

[Matthew]

Talked with my contractor friend last night. He's not an engineer, but he can build stuff - he's not sure what would be required for the lower level to support the upper level. You won't be able to get posts long enough to reach from ground to 2nd level, so the lower level will have to carry the upper level. That means the lower level posts need to be strong enough, spaced properly, and have the proper piers, but he's not sure how the attachment would be made between the upper level posts and the lower level posts. His comment - "it will probably have to be engineered".

 

[Sac Arrow]

Talked with my contractor friend last night. He's not an engineer, but he can build stuff - he's not sure what would be required for the lower level to support the upper level. You won't be able to get posts long enough to reach from ground to 2nd level, so the lower level will have to carry the upper level. That means the lower level posts need to be strong enough, spaced properly, and have the proper piers, but he's not sure how the attachment would be made between the upper level posts and the lower level posts. His comment - "it will probably have to be engineered".

Also the posts will need to be able to take shear loads, so, shear walls or cross bracing.

 

[SoonerAviator]

If he did it correctly, the upper level for the master bedroom would have the load carried by the ledger board fastened to the home structure and the outside perimeter posts. As far as not having posts long enough, I'd be considering using metal for the posts, which can be encased in wood trim. Honestly though, I'd personally skip the upper level anyway. I can't imagine it would be of that much use.

 

[Matthew]

If he did it correctly, the upper level for the master bedroom would have the load carried by the ledger board fastened to the home structure and the outside perimeter posts. As far as not having posts long enough, I'd be considering using metal for the posts, which can be encased in wood trim. Honestly though, I'd personally skip the upper level anyway. I can't imagine it would be of that much use.

I suppose you could also cantilever out a balcony if you wanted to really dig into the house framing.