Thinking about a Bus/RV

I’d love to see some interior shots when you get a chance.
 
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Bill said:
I’d love to see some interior shots when you get a chance.
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I’ll do a walkthrough/walkaround video at some point. Right now the interior is fairly messy as we’re still moving things in, so I’m going to wait until after that’s more completed.
 
We've been working through the process of trying to both get all the parts we need in-house, and get them installed in the bus to make it set up. I got 146 lbs of air springs from Prevost (these things are big and heavy) and I'll need to start looking at what it takes to get them put on. Hopefully I can get started on those this week but I may have to wait until the weekend.

I've managed to sort out some other little details. The TV issues have been sorted by a proper HDMI switch, and now I can use one, the other, or both TVs just fine regardless of the input source. I got the subwoofer under the bed in the bedroom mounted and hooked up with the wireless audio source. That took a bit of troubleshooting as for a while I was getting no bass. The reason? The AV box only sends subwoofer out when it's in an audio mode that's not "Music".

I'm still scratching my head on that one, too.

Amazon screwed up my order on USB-equipped outlets and so I don't have those, which is a bit annoying as I'd like to get those in and be able to effectively check off the interior from my infrastructure side. But, we'll get it done.

Another detail was getting the headlights fixed so that the lows and the highs are correctly on. From what I can tell, they got the lows and highs reversed on one side, and then they switched the wrong side to correct the issue. Well, now it's corrected, and a relay is in place which will keep the low beams on with the high beams, rather than turning them off. More light is more better. I additionally corrected the headlight mounting screws so that they don't flop around anymore. I'm sure I'll need to do some more aiming to get the lights right on, but they're a lot better than they were.

My exhaust elbow showed up that I'll need for putting the new muffler on, so that's another project I can get working on.
 
I managed to get the new 90 degree push-to-connect air fittings for behind the dash and put those on. After airing up the system (which seemed to happen faster) I checked and noticed/felt/heard no leaks. Then leaving the system alone for 30 minutes, there was no change in the air pressure for the front and rear systems. That tells me I've got things pretty good there, well better than the DOT 1 PSI/minute requirement.

Note: When the key is off, there is no air being sent to the airbags, and that tag axle bag is still leaking. So, that area still needs to be addressed, which I knew.

Over the weekend I should start getting the airbags torn apart and then I'll know what kind of fittings to get new ones of. That leaves me feeling in a pretty good spot about the air system being at least significantly improved.

The aux system, that's still leaky. In that same 30 minute time period it went down to 0. Once I'm able to climb under the thing, I'll hopefully be able to find some fittings or something else simple that are leaking on the aux side and then get those changed out.
 
tmyers said:
What does your Aux air feed?

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I'm trying to learn all the details of what it feeds. It's used for the tilt and telescoping steering wheel, the air driver's seat, the slides, and some other things I'm not thinking of at the moment. I have a feeling there may be some leaks relating to the slide mechanisms. There's an electric air pump in the nose of the bus that runs off 110VAC and will fill the aux tank.

The one other thing, and I'm sure this is leaking, it's missing an air valve for the sliding step cover. They're mailing that to me and I have to install it. I'm somewhat hoping that I find they didn't plug that air line very well and that's why the aux air is leaking so much.
 
NealRomeoGolf said:
Sorry to hear about the engine, but the rest looks great. ;)
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I think I posted here that the lack of ability to get a Prevost with a C15 was something that weighed heavily on me.

That said, I always enjoy learning new things and I’ve never owned a Detroit Diesel before (unless you count the 6.5TD in my old GMC pickup). So, I am looking forward to learning about this engine. So far, I do like it, but tbe 3126 was really being asked too much of in my old RV - it should’ve had at least a C9, a C10 or C12 would’ve been better.
 
Ted said:
As requested by @Bill , my walkthrough video is now up:

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WOW! Ted, that is quite the piece of equipment, y'all will certainly be able to tour the county in style and comfort. Thanks for the video(s), always find them entertaining and fun. The complexity of an RV of that size is amazing, but if anyone can handle it, I'm confident it is you!
 
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Gary said:
WOW! Ted, that is quite the piece of equipment, y'all will certainly be able to tour the county in style and comfort. Thanks for the video(s), always find them entertaining and fun. The complexity of an RV of that size is amazing, but if anyone can handle it, I'm confident it is you!
Click to expand...

Thanks Gary! Glad you've found them useful and interesting. :)

And yes, this new bus has pretty massive complexity. But, I'm not too concerned - I'll figure out what I need to figure out.
 
Today I spent the day wrenching on the bus. The goals were to get the airbags out, maybe start getting them back in, get the old muffler out, and get the driveshaft out. As is typically the case on these sorts of things, not all the goals were accomplished, but I did make good progress.

Being the first time that I was working on the bus was a lot of it - I'm still getting the feel of where everything is, the best way to jack the thing up, where the access points are, etc. I spent a decent amount of time just getting everything sorted out in that regard. Getting the airbags out was really pretty straightforward once I got it figured, and I got the 6 on the rear axle out, with the fittings off since I'm going to replace them for good measure. As I'd seen, all of the airbags seemed to have some level of dry rot. Even one that was pretty new, upon closer inspection, was showing some cracking. The tag axle bag that was leaking was the worst, but this is good to get taken care of.

Then I got to the driveshaft. As I'd suspected, one of the U-joints was bad. Fortunately (I think) it's the one on the differential side. Supposedly the Allison's rear bearing is known for going out if there's a driveline vibration, although it seems to be fine at initial glance. However, what seems to have happened is that the U-joint needle bearings or something got seized up on one side of the cap, and then it got twisted loose (something about 1700 ft lbs of torque multiplied by whatever first gear is in that thing), which ended up wedging/damaging the cap in place. It should come out pretty easily, it doesn't. So this will require some more work another day, but I think I have a plan figured out for how to persuade it to leave.

And then I didn't get to the muffler, running out of time.

While I was working on things I found the tag axle hub on the driver's side is leaking pretty significantly, so I'm going to need to get a kit to reseal that. However none of the wheel bearings seem to be in bad shape so far, which is good.

I'll get some fittings and keep working on it...
 
I've gotten a bit of time in to work on the bus. Everything is slower going just because it's the first time I'm having to look at, think about, and do everything.

I got new air fittings and got the rear 6 airbags back in and together. They appear to be leak-free.

Once I had the new rear bags in, I was able to attack the driveshaft the way I had planned. I rotated the driveshaft input so that the U-joint was straight up and down with the rear wheels off the ground, then put them on the ground and had the airbags aired up. I put the bottle jack underneath the good side, put a socket on it, and pushed upwards. The U-joint came out with that without too much difficulty at that point. It looks like I need to clean up the inner surface. Somewhere in this bus's recent history, it hit a deer. When you tow one of these busses the driveshaft has to get removed, or at least disconnected from the differential and then tied up and out of the way. My guess is when it hit the deer it got towed in, and the tow truck driver messed up the re-installation of the driveshaft. Fortunately I'm not seeing any leaks at the differential input yoke and the bearing feels fine. Before I go to put the new driveshaft in I'll get the rear wheels off the ground and spin it a few revolutions just to make further sure.

I got the old muffler out and started looking at how I want to install the new one. Should be simple enough, just have to make up the brackets how I want them.

Moving to the front of the bus, the air springs are not set up in such a way that they're easy to change:

airspring.jpeg

People complain about the IFS for this reason. The airbag can actually get out through the control arm once the suspension is in the full down position (at least according to the forums) but it's not as simple and straightforward as the rear ones. The single nut on the top will need a wrench to just barely get at it, and then the air fittings on it are also a bit convoluted. So I'll get them, but it's not super fun. What's annoying with this is that the upper control arm was obviously replaced (that's a good thing) but when it was replaced they obviously left the original airbag there. That's the kind of thing that's annoying to me when I see it. I may tend to go overboard with "while I'm there" things, but for the low cost of airbags and how much easier it would make the job, it just seems silly to have not done it then.

But another interesting thing I found upon looking at the airbags up there is that the ones Prevost sent me were different. So my first question was whether I got the right ones. Doing some digging into the part numbers and seeing some forum posts, Prevost came up with a new front airbag that they are selling as "optional" but upgraded. It's 1" larger in diameter, which (similar to some of my other tire projects) means that it can support the same weight at a lower PSI. Aside from this theoretically making the ride more comfortable, the main reason for it is that people were complaining with the front airbags on the IFS not doing the best job of supporting the bus. Basically since they require a higher PSI to support the same weight, that PSI gets too close to the operating PSI of the air system and it gets harder to keep up. So, aside from replacing cracked springs, it's an upgrade.

And yes, my sway bar bushings need to be replaced.

The good news is that overall (at least on this side, I haven't gotten the driver's side wheel off yet) it looks as though the major components known to need replacement around 100k have been done already.

While up front I started going through and greasing all the zerk fittings. I also found a grease cap for the idler arm on the steering had fallen off and was just sitting below the idler arm on the bus. I have no idea when this would've happened. I can't imagine it would've made much of the drive home like that, but who knows. It's loose in there so I'll have to do some effort to make it fit a bit snugger.
 
Ted said:
I've gotten a bit of time in to work on the bus. Everything is slower going just because it's the first time I'm having to look at, think about, and do everything.

I got new air fittings and got the rear 6 airbags back in and together. They appear to be leak-free.

Once I had the new rear bags in, I was able to attack the driveshaft the way I had planned. I rotated the driveshaft input so that the U-joint was straight up and down with the rear wheels off the ground, then put them on the ground and had the airbags aired up. I put the bottle jack underneath the good side, put a socket on it, and pushed upwards. The U-joint came out with that without too much difficulty at that point. It looks like I need to clean up the inner surface. Somewhere in this bus's recent history, it hit a deer. When you tow one of these busses the driveshaft has to get removed, or at least disconnected from the differential and then tied up and out of the way. My guess is when it hit the deer it got towed in, and the tow truck driver messed up the re-installation of the driveshaft. Fortunately I'm not seeing any leaks at the differential input yoke and the bearing feels fine. Before I go to put the new driveshaft in I'll get the rear wheels off the ground and spin it a few revolutions just to make further sure.

I got the old muffler out and started looking at how I want to install the new one. Should be simple enough, just have to make up the brackets how I want them.

Moving to the front of the bus, the air springs are not set up in such a way that they're easy to change:

View attachment 123102

People complain about the IFS for this reason. The airbag can actually get out through the control arm once the suspension is in the full down position (at least according to the forums) but it's not as simple and straightforward as the rear ones. The single nut on the top will need a wrench to just barely get at it, and then the air fittings on it are also a bit convoluted. So I'll get them, but it's not super fun. What's annoying with this is that the upper control arm was obviously replaced (that's a good thing) but when it was replaced they obviously left the original airbag there. That's the kind of thing that's annoying to me when I see it. I may tend to go overboard with "while I'm there" things, but for the low cost of airbags and how much easier it would make the job, it just seems silly to have not done it then.

But another interesting thing I found upon looking at the airbags up there is that the ones Prevost sent me were different. So my first question was whether I got the right ones. Doing some digging into the part numbers and seeing some forum posts, Prevost came up with a new front airbag that they are selling as "optional" but upgraded. It's 1" larger in diameter, which (similar to some of my other tire projects) means that it can support the same weight at a lower PSI. Aside from this theoretically making the ride more comfortable, the main reason for it is that people were complaining with the front airbags on the IFS not doing the best job of supporting the bus. Basically since they require a higher PSI to support the same weight, that PSI gets too close to the operating PSI of the air system and it gets harder to keep up. So, aside from replacing cracked springs, it's an upgrade.

And yes, my sway bar bushings need to be replaced.

The good news is that overall (at least on this side, I haven't gotten the driver's side wheel off yet) it looks as though the major components known to need replacement around 100k have been done already.

While up front I started going through and greasing all the zerk fittings. I also found a grease cap for the idler arm on the steering had fallen off and was just sitting below the idler arm on the bus. I have no idea when this would've happened. I can't imagine it would've made much of the drive home like that, but who knows. It's loose in there so I'll have to do some effort to make it fit a bit snugger.
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That ifs is interesting. Didn't know that was a thing.
 
Jim K said:
That ifs is interesting. Didn't know that was a thing.
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I’m not sure if any semis use it. Prevost went to it in the late 90s for improved ride and tighter turning radius. Some people claim you can’t tell the difference. Those people seem to not own IFSs, though.

I’m very happy with the ride, I can say that.
 
I managed to get the front air springs removed and reinstalled on the bus, and get things back together. I inflated the old springs manually (one of the fun features of the Prevost) and that was able to push the suspension down the rest of the way, increasing the space available to remove the old springs and install the new ones. Once I had that figured out, it really wasn't too bad of a job to do.

I got caught up on a few more interior details and cleaning, getting a few minor things finished up or otherwise moved along. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish up the muffler installation (assuming I can figure out something that will work from my scrap metal around) and also install the AirTabs. Then Monday when the hose shop opens I can get new fittings for the front airbags, install those and finish that up, and then return to the back greasing the zerk fittings and some other checks and small items while I wait for the driveshaft to be ready.
 
tmyers said:
The muffler bearings?
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Yes. In bigger RVs it is very important to maintain the muffler bearings. These diesel engines produce so much torque that the muffler needs to be able to wiggle under hard acceleration and deceleration. Otherwise with worn muffler bearings the torque is transmitted to the engine mounts which can become weak and break at the worst possible time, like on the interstate in heavy traffic.

The stainless steel bearings cost a little more but last longer than the chrome plated bearings. The picture below is of the lower cost bearing without the inner race, which is fine for lower torque engines like in pickups. For the larger Rvs the bearings with the inner race last much longer.

1702252424026.png
 
I used to have a muffler bearing stand on some swampland I bought in Florida

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I've uploaded the next video on my Prevost work, this is specifically on how to jack the bus up and put it on stands. Following will be air springs, driveshaft, AirTabs... I've got a good backlog I need to get taken care of.

 
And while everyone's waiting for the ball to drop for New Years, I've dropped the next video on the Prevost: this one on replacing all the air springs


Enjoy!
 
I missed out on a few updates, but I got the bus back together in time for our first trip. The air springs were done, the new muffler got put on, the driveshaft got back in. I wasn't able to do a test drive on any of this before hitting the road on the first trip, due ot a combination of timing and also weather. There was rain that made the front of the shop a mud pit, and the way the timing worked I knew I would be able to pull the bus out once but not be able to then take it for a drive, come back to my house (go down the driveway) and then back up to turn around successfully. So, it was a case of Leroy Jenkinsing it and hoping I didn't screw up.

Fortunately, everything worked fine.

We got back yesterday from our first trip in the bus. We left a bit before Christmas and ended up spending around 2,000 miles driving to spend Christmas with my wife in Pittsburgh (she was working but had a couple of days there without any charter) and then down to Virginia to spend some time with extended family.

Part of the purpose of this trip was to see how well the bus worked for us and what we needed to tweak as much as actually having a trip and enjoying it. The maintenance I'd done on it was primarily things that weren't going to improve the driving any, although we had gone through and gotten everything set up inside as well as we could figure. What amazed us was how little got added to the list for either things to fix or things to change. I've got some repairs and the list is certainly not 0, but most of them are things I knew about already and catch-up maintenance.

The new muffler and the AirTabs were perhaps the two things I added that I was wondering about whether they'd improve things. The AirTabs I did feel made an improvement mostly in crosswind turbulence, less so in drafting behind trucks. The difference was much less noticeable than on the old RV, but that's to be expected given that I'm starting with such a better platform as far as suspension and handling go.

The muffler made less of a difference than I'd thought it would audibly. The Prevost is just so quiet and muffled that you don't hear much at all. Also, the Series 60 is a pretty quiet engine overall and it seems a lot of the muffling occurs within the exhaust manifold and turbo. I'm convinced that the new muffler has less restriction, but what that translates into for lower EGTs I can't say since I don't have an EGT gauge on this bus. With the driver's window open I can hear the turbo more, especially through a tunnel, and the engine has a nice sound.

The new air springs in the front are an updated part number which are a larger diameter, which means they can support the bus at a lower interal PSI. That also means that when manually raising the bus they will raise faster (same system PSI will flow into the bag faster given that lower PSI the bags will run at for ride height) meaning that you can manually raise the front of the bus faster. I'm finding that to be a nice feature as I level the bus, and also I'm not waiting as long for it to air up when leaving a campsite.

The bus itself performed flawlessly. I have to say I'm impressed with the Series 60 as an engine, even as someone who's a Cat fan overall. The thing starts easily, consistently, and effortlessly. I've observed zero smoke under any operation. It may not be a Cat, but there's a reason these engines were popular.

I do wish that it had more horsepower (as a surprise to noone). Even though it's a 500 HP engine, from what I can tell it's "only" rated at around 1250 ft-lb torque, basically flat from 1400 RPM on up. From what I can tell on most semi truck ratings it seems like 1450-1850 ft-lb are the torque ratings that were generally present, and at a lower RPM than that. This has me wondering if the torque rating is for the transmission (which also seems to be rated higher than 1250) or if I'm making calculations incorrectly. Given that this is a "million mile engine" with a similarly long life transmission, I can afford to lose some longevity if I turn things up, but the life reductions tend to be exponential. Really, though, I have other things to focus on and this works just fine for the time being. It's a lower priority than other things.

So now I need to get together a big list of a parts, get things ordered, and then starting working through those things before my next trip.
 
Not knowing much about diesel engines of that size, but what is it that makes you want more power (aside from the Tim Allen in all of us)? Would changing the gear ratio a bit be a better solution if acceleration or mountain passes are the desire, at the expense of a bit of hwy fuel mileage? Obviously those diesel engines are designed to cruise in a narrow part of the RPM band, so gearing changes would be pretty limited.
 
SoonerAviator said:
Not knowing much about diesel engines of that size, but what is it that makes you want more power (aside from the Tim Allen in all of us)? Would changing the gear ratio a bit be a better solution if acceleration or mountain passes are the desire, at the expense of a bit of hwy fuel mileage? Obviously those diesel engines are designed to cruise in a narrow part of the RPM band, so gearing changes would be pretty limited.
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Your reply brings up another thing I forgot to mention, and that's the transmission ratios. I wasn't a big fan of the transmission ratios on the old RV. SImilarly, I'm not a huge fan of them on this RV either. The ratio mentality seems to have been similar. 1-2, 2-3, and 5-6 are really close and not particularly usefully so. 3-4 and 4-5 have big drops, on the order of 25-30% in engine RPM. If I'm shifting at 2100 RPM (which is the rated horsepower point and considered redline, although it can overrev to 2400 under engine braking) then that'll get the revs down to something around 1500 or so. That basically goes from 100% power to 75% power, a big drop, since the torque appears to be flat in that 1500+ range.

Also remember this is a heavy bus. You're roughly talking about 100 lb/hp. The power to weight ratio is actually worse than the old bus, and with it the 0-60 time. Not that I fully care about that, it's a bus not a drag racer. Basically it handles hills pretty well (much better than the old bus), but it could handle them better, and it would be nice if it had a broader power curve. Another, say, 50-100 HP would also help in general with going up hills.

Gearing by itself wouldn't necessarily do a whole lot. I can already downshift (although that 5-4 downshift on uphills would be nice if it could happen sooner - again, gear ratios). There was a 4.88 gear option, but as it is the revs on the highway are a hair higher than I'd like for flat ground. If I were to do anything gearing related, it would be fun to try to swap in one of the automated 12-speed manuals from ZF. However that still has some ratios in that similar gear range that I don't love the ratios on, and because top gear is a significantly lower overdrive it would require swapping out the rear end to a higher (lower numerical) range.

Basically, a broad torque/horsepower curve is important. From what I can tell, the truck Series 60s seem to have higher torque at a lower RPM but that results in a more constant (or closer to constant) horsepower through the RPM band. This one has a higher peak horsepower at 500 HP, but then seems to have the torque be completely flat. At the end of the day you need horsepower to accelerate.

I'm not in a hurry to do anything. But there are upgraded exhaust manifold and turbo options that help to reduce backpressure/EGTs and allow more power safely. Things to look at...
 
Posted the video on my driveshaft R&R. That wasn't hugely fun, mainly because I've lifted transmissions that weigh less:

 
And now, the video on my muffler install (with sound!):

 
I wasn't going to post these, but the analytics part has been entertaining for me, so I decided to.

When my kids were babies getting them to sleep was hard. Every. Single. Night. They generally slept the best (read: at all) with some kind of background noise, and we ended up playing some YouTube sleep noises on an iPad. There's a lot of these kinds of videos out there, we normally had a vacuum cleaner or a 777 in cruise. Different sounds for different people.

When I was recording a startup video for my video on the muffler install and going through the editing I realized it was pretty decent audio for a diesel engine idling video. And so with a bit of editing magic, I present to you 10 hours of a Detroit Diesel Series 60 at normal idle and high idle:



The first 2 minutes of both videos are the same. It's about there that I engaged the high idle switch. I then did a copy and paste of roughly 20-30 seconds of idle (enough and edited so that you couldn't hear any blips) and then just pasted enough times to make for 10 hours.

The TL;DR is that the normal idle is currently performing #2 out of my 10 most recent videos on views (measured over the first 36 or so hours) with nearly 1,300 views which is rather humorous. I'm curious if that was a one-night wonder or if it will repeat at all - my guess is one-night wonder. But if there's some parent out there with a screaming baby who is lulled to sleep with the sound of an idling diesel, then I'll be happy to have helped them.
 
Ted, you make me chuckle. In a good way.

So, is the high idle used to keep the batteries charged and the air system pressurized? Back when I was young and was on tour busses the driver always kicked it to high idle when the bus was parked and running.
 
Bill said:
Ted, you make me chuckle. In a good way.

So, is the high idle used to keep the batteries charged and the air system pressurized? Back when I was young and was on tour busses the driver always kicked it to high idle when the bus was parked and running.
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High idle will keep the air pump and alternator going stronger, so that does help keep all those systems at full capacity and also helps with filling the air tanks from a cold start faster. On the Prevost they’re pretty big and it takes a while. It’ll also help with keeping the cabin hot or cold - heat/AC.

But the other reason is that extended idle at idle RPM is bad for the engine. Not enough heat, incomplete combustion, will lead to the cylinders getting washed down.

In other trucks high idle can be needed for PTO applications, hydraulic pumps etc.
 
Ted said:
High idle will keep the air pump and alternator going stronger, so that does help keep all those systems at full capacity and also helps with filling the air tanks from a cold start faster.
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Yes, I know. I lived in my 5th wheel for 2 years when I first moved to Gallup.

Seemed like everytime I got home from a flight at around 0530, I would find a diesel Rv parked next to me. As soon as I fell asleep, that diesel would start up at high idle...to soon be followed by every diesel in the Rv park. Constant high idle until about 10am or so... :sigh:
 
Zeldman said:
Yes, I know. I lived in my 5th wheel for 2 years when I first moved to Gallup.

Seemed like everytime I got home from a flight at around 0530, I would find a diesel Rv parked next to me. As soon as I fell asleep, that diesel would start up at high idle...to soon be followed by every diesel in the Rv park. Constant high idle until about 10am or so... :sigh:
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So that makes no sense to do unless they were leaving, or were reliant upon engine heat for the interior (which they shouldn't be).

But I have come across a lot of people who think they need to run their engines every day because reasons.
 
Ted said:
So that makes no sense to do unless they were leaving, or were reliant upon engine heat for the interior (which they shouldn't be).
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A mixture of both, but most were leaving. And a number of those probably thought it was preferable to let the engine idle and not move until the temps were up to operating temperature. Those were the ones that parked next to me, and always started up around 5am for a 8am departure... :lol:

The park was fairly empty by noon, except for the full timers so at least I would get a few hours of sleep before going back on duty.

Folks, don't get me wrong. I enjoyed my time living there. I met new and interesting folks everyday. During summer the Rv park had a cowboy cookout each evening. Grilled steak of chicken quarter, for a price of course, but always fun. I would eat there 2 or 3 times a week.

But I like my house, especially in winter.!!
 
Put together my review of Airtabs on the Prevost:


Later this year I'll do a review of them with my trailer as well.

The TL;DR is that they do work, but the difference isn't nearly as significant as it was on the old RV. This makes sense. Basically I notice that it helps in gusting crosswinds, but it doesn't help drafting semis. It also seemed like it did help keep some of the grime off the back of the bus.

Separately, I ordered a bunch of parts from Prevost. I'll be putting those in over the next month.
 
While your RV/bus is amazing, and as much as I would love to live that lifestyle, I could never do it without a mechanic on staff (and traveling with me).
I pretty much need to call an electrician to change a light bulb.
 
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Kritchlow said:
While your RV/bus is amazing, and as much as I would love to live that lifestyle, I could never do it without a mechanic on staff (and traveling with me).
I pretty much need to call an electrician to change a light bulb.
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It is definitely best if you have some mechanical ability. That said there are plenty of people I see who have RVs who don’t even know how to jump a car. The community is pretty helpful overall and there’s a lot of folks out there who will lend a hand.
 
1707575483233.png

I just found out I screwed up. I should’ve bought one of these.

The Prevost H5-60. 60 feet, articulated, 5 axles, and mod engine. What an Rv that could’ve been!

Just kidding. I’m very happy with my XL2-45.
 
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